Thanks. Was wondering if anyone here has replaced a torque converter, and if so, how awful/easy is that job?
I've poked a numerous sites about the 2000-2004 TIP's and learned the TC defect was finally fixed in the 2004 model year (TSB). Seems to me everyone with a pre-'04 2.7T TIP is going to have TC failure. Just anticipating this will happen to me, and looking for any experience dealing with this. Any comments welcome (including hints to look elsewhere).
Great site,
Illbay
Been a long time since this post, but in case you are still wondering, it is time-consuming and fiddly, but not exceedingly difficult if you have anything close to the right tools, are comfortable working on your car, and are comfortable solving the odd problem that arises from time to time. The job can be accomplished with standard metric (of course) sockets, hex sets, triple-square and and Torx bits (the only somewhat oddball is a T55 for the three torque converter-flex plate bolts). Really, there are only two or three sizes of each type of fastener tool needed. Some people drop the subframe and remove the trans -- you don't need to actually remove it from under the car to replace the TC so 18" or so is all the clearance you technically need (note I said technically). Myself, I pulled the engine and trans together since I wanted to inspect the turbochargers (and oil supply lines) and relocate the secondary water pump, and wanted the easier access. (And besides, doesn't everybody *need* an engine hoist??)
While most of the how-to's out there (Audizine, etc.) are S4/manual trans, you can piece the Tip procedure together easily enough if you read enough threads. The only issues I had were where the gorrillas had touched my car last (rounded bumper mount-to-radiator support bolt and rounded driveshaft flange bolt). One tip I did not see anywhere: After you disconnect the driveshaft where it connects to the trans (it may seem like it doesn't want to move rearword once unbolted, but it will), you can get to the shift cable in the plastic box mounted up under the trans tunnel -- no need to disconnect it at the trans end. There's a little brass clip attaching the cable to the selector and a larger steel clip attaching it to its support (pull it down and off with pliers). I slit the plastic box at the forward side to make it easier to re-mount (and take apart again next time--changed one of the turbos out because of light FOD, and the replacement blew in 50 miles, but that's another story.) I saw no evidence that road splash ever gets up in there, so felt safe doing that.
Some lessons learned: There should be an access hole for getting to the TC-flex plate bolts. I found it necessary to remove the starter anyway since the access hole isn't centered over the bolts and my Torx bit was slightly too long. (You need to remove one of the starter bolts anyway to remove the trans, no no big deal). Rotate the TC when you install on the input shaft and ensure that the tabs engage (there's a picture on the Web somewhere that makes it clear) -- the trans fluid pump will be destroyed if you don't. Don't forget to hook up the speed sensor after mounting the trans to engine. Not impossible to do it with everything back in the car, but more of a pain certainly. When you put the engine back in, connect up the exhaust and put the heat shields back on when the engine is still a ways from being in final position. No way to get the lower heat shields up in there otherwise (that I've found). Watch the axles (when removing the engine as well as putting it back) or else they can hang up and cause grief.
Rather than follow the trans fill procedure (with a running engine at specified temperature), I accurately measured the volume removed (obviously you are relying onthe trans having the proper amount of fluid in the first place) and then transferred new fluid via the upper oil cooler line. I did this by inserting a tight-fitting vinyl-plastic tube into the oil cooler line, with the other end sealed into the trans fluid container (remove the trans fluid container cap and drill a proper-size hole so the tube fits reasonably tightly.) Then, I pressurized the fluid container SLIGHTLY (2-3 psig, or not much more than a human can blow -- I can only imagine the mess if a fluid container were to explode) with shop air and fed the fluid into the trans (via the vinyl plastic tube and trans cooler piping). (For reference, I replaced 7 quarts).
YMMMV but really not that bad a job. (Probably waaay more than you wanted to know.)
