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Author Topic: Slight throttle cut high rpm  (Read 22775 times)
spacey3
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« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2014, 01:22:08 PM »

The boost issues you are seeing have nothing to do with the throttle plate weirdness.. get your PID straight and your boost will be fine.

Sorry Nyet, I meant to see if the throttle angle still bounces around. I've managed to tame the overboost (I do need to tidy it though), but also the top end is unstable, assumedly it's possible to smooth this out?

If you have messed with waste gate pretention / adjustment rod you might have the pretention way off. You need to hook up a hand pump with gauge and pump 4-5 psi to each WG. You have to watch the Wg arm and adjust it so the WG arm just starts to open ( cracked open ). The waste gate should be wide open at 6-7 psi . If you have every thing way off you will have one turbo doing a lot more work and boost spiking. It is very important that you get the adjustments within 1-2 psi other wise you will get boost spiking , lag , turbo over spool and burnt out N75.

Lee

Thanks Lee, the wastegate isn't too far out now, boosts around 4/5 psi (it should be ~6) with the N75 disconnected so needs to be tightened a little, previously it was 9! Hence my boost spikes and lag (previously) as you say. It's only been too loose for a few runs and will be tightened as soon as the weather dries up.
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nyet
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« Reply #16 on: November 11, 2014, 01:24:48 PM »

assumedly it's possible to smooth this out?

Definitely, once you get your wastegate tension set the way you want it. Also, make sure all of your inlet path is good and clean; ive seen a lot of boost issues from flexible inlet/intake pipes collapsing or kinking.
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spacey3
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« Reply #17 on: November 11, 2014, 01:38:09 PM »

Definitely, once you get your wastegate tension set the way you want it. Also, make sure all of your inlet path is good and clean; ive seen a lot of boost issues from flexible inlet/intake pipes collapsing or kinking.


Cheers Nyet, just looked at an older log, wgdc is sat around 75-78 after 5k rpm, currently it's >95 so def. too loose

I've recently added a silicone inlet pipe, I also got an open cone filter but I was getting ~10g/s less and car felt a bit flatter, intake temp's were a ton higher too so waiting until I get a heat shield and feed for it before I fiddle again.

I'll get the boost nice and smooth and have a fiddle with some timing then come back to investigating the throttle workings another day, it's not worrying you so it must be alright!

Thanks all for chiming in Smiley
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10101011
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« Reply #18 on: November 11, 2014, 03:16:22 PM »

Another thing that can give you over boost issues is spark plug gap too lage and a very rich mixture. At times you will not a have a misfire but a large gap will cause unburnt fuel to collect in the turbine side ( turbo ) and then ignite. The ignition of the fuel will give you a boost spike and surging . The ignition inside the turbo will not make any noise ( back fire ) but it will over spool the turbo for a splitt second. I hope i am not sending you on a wild goose chase. I hope this helps you too.

Lee
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spacey3
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« Reply #19 on: November 11, 2014, 05:26:31 PM »

Another thing that can give you over boost issues is spark plug gap too lage and a very rich mixture. At times you will not a have a misfire but a large gap will cause unburnt fuel to collect in the turbine side ( turbo ) and then ignite. The ignition of the fuel will give you a boost spike and surging . The ignition inside the turbo will not make any noise ( back fire ) but it will over spool the turbo for a splitt second. I hope i am not sending you on a wild goose chase. I hope this helps you too.

Lee

Thanks for the suggestion Lee.

I actually thought about this and so changed my plugs and gapped them down, made no difference annoyingly Sad

I need to tighten the wastegate again so should stop the dc being so high again, after that fiddle with the PID and see what I can get Smiley
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spacey3
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« Reply #20 on: November 13, 2014, 06:58:43 AM »

Ok so I've been over the car pretty well now.

- I've adjusted the WG, at ~70% wgdc high rpm now so much better
- Gone over all vacuum/boost pipes and checked for any leaks
- Cleaned TB

I've also rescaled KFMIOP/KZWOP(2) and altered their values accordingly as I thought this could have an effect on the throttle oscillations up top.

Took it for a run and it's no better Sad I disconnected the N75 which made no difference (apart from boost). When I disconnected the MAF however it requested a dead flat 100% throttle angle, with .3/4% throttle oscillations which I think is just signal noise.

I understand running without the MAF it defaults to predicted readings, so could this mean I possibly have a faulty MAF? Anyone know what things can intervene slightly with the throttle angle?

Looking here http://nyet.org/cars/info/Translated%20Funktionsrahmen%20Modules%20(10-01-2012).pdf I can see there's a few things, maybe cylinder charge maps?

I get these symptoms on both my mapped file and standard file so it's gotta be a hardware issue I think...

Again, although only 3% in the ideal world I'd at least know what it is so any ideas are appreciated Smiley
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nyet
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« Reply #21 on: November 13, 2014, 10:47:38 AM »

You'll have to dig through the FR (the actual one) and log the various variables in the DK path to know for sure.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #22 on: November 13, 2014, 02:18:53 PM »

Since it's in request I would say the potentiometer in your pedal is failing. There are 2 for plausibility diagnosis, I bet one is off. I have seen quite a few request 70-80 percent when failing and not cause codes. Your failure seems less likely, but possible.

Again, a couple percent is kinda irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, but it will not get better, only worse.
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nyet
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« Reply #23 on: November 13, 2014, 02:20:39 PM »

Since it's in request I would say the potentiometer in your pedal is failing.

Agreed. Log pedal position.
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spacey3
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« Reply #24 on: November 13, 2014, 05:08:42 PM »

Since it's in request I would say the potentiometer in your pedal is failing. There are 2 for plausibility diagnosis, I bet one is off. I have seen quite a few request 70-80 percent when failing and not cause codes. Your failure seems less likely, but possible.

Again, a couple percent is kinda irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, but it will not get better, only worse.

That's what I thought... My pedal position stays on 100% in the first few logs I done of it, I've not bothered to log it anymore (me7 kept crashing for having too much going on), next logs I do I'll add it on.

I've noticed though sometimes when I start it the car has a little hiccup, almost like a misfire. I started it tonight and it almost stalled and EPC and traction light came on so I grabbed the codes fast.

Coincidentally they are P1544 (throttle signal too high) and P1172 (throttle signal too low). I've also got P1062 (power supply terminal 30: too low - intermittent).

I have a feeling it maybe something silly like a bad earth... I put a new engine in a few weeks ago so things have been apart. Sound reasonable?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2014, 05:35:55 PM »

Log both sensors, not just pedal position.
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spacey3
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« Reply #26 on: November 13, 2014, 05:39:46 PM »

Log both sensors, not just pedal position.

I shall do on the next log (tomorrow most likely), previously I logged pedal position and actual throttle angle, then later replaced pedal position with throttle and requested, I'll add it for completion purposes though.

Would these kind of symptoms appear if the TB wasn't calibrated? Not being calibrated as a result of some kind of power cut somewhere whilst cranking and starting the car before the TB can adapt/set. Just thinking aloud here... Apologies if I'm not making sense Smiley
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spacey3
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« Reply #27 on: November 13, 2014, 05:52:31 PM »

Log both sensors, not just pedal position.

Here's one of the first I made with pedal position and the throttle plate angle. Other things are much tidier now but throttle is still the same.
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nyet
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« Reply #28 on: November 13, 2014, 06:32:46 PM »

Wow. Very strange. Your load is also very noisy... but your RPM and MAF signals are not.

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Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
spacey3
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« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2014, 06:28:09 AM »

Hmm... Wonder what could be up.

How does the ignition timing look to you? Are those oscillations acceptable in your opinion?

I'll be checking the earths and all wires again tonight after work, see if I can uncover anything obvious.
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