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Author Topic: MAFless and ME7.1 again  (Read 115402 times)
NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #45 on: April 30, 2011, 02:48:15 PM »

Wow-alot of interesting talks, thanks!

But maybe somebody tell me-what codeworte i must disable in me7 with MAFless, for switch back motronic from limp mode to normal mode? I dont whant to use external boost controller etc.


x2  I'd really like to know how to prevent the ECu from throwing itself into limp and also allow the ABS/ESP to function without the MAF's load input anymore
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« Reply #46 on: May 02, 2011, 11:17:06 AM »

For ABS/ESP you have to tune CAN coding on ECU. ECU sends signals to ESP module via CAN and when MAF is unplugged then ESP goes OFF.

You can have ME7 boost control with MAFless of course, torque model is still there...

Wink
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« Reply #47 on: May 15, 2011, 03:50:39 PM »

But when MAF is eliminated, there will be limp-mode in motronic. Same as in situation, when EGT sensors or front lambdas fall. In limp mode, there is only about 1440 millibar of requested boost, regardless of what we have in LDRXN map. Or i am wrong and MAF absence is light error without limp mode (like second lambdas error for example)? 
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #48 on: May 16, 2011, 08:06:24 AM »

For ABS/ESP you have to tune CAN coding on ECU. ECU sends signals to ESP module via CAN and when MAF is unplugged then ESP goes OFF.

Exactly, so how to prevent this?
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Mantis
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« Reply #49 on: June 18, 2011, 02:42:55 PM »

Any further thoughts on coding out the maf, so that ESP/ABS doesn't freak out
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« Reply #50 on: June 21, 2011, 11:31:42 AM »

Mantis, run a maf, pre or post turbo doesnt really matter much because even the rich condition on shifts can be tuned out with the pre turbo setup and a bov, if you are running re-circ then all the better/easier for you.  I am ordering the pro-m 3" tube soon.  look into it, the price is right.  it is intended for blow through and i really suggest you go this route if your plumbing is setup to allow it.  both turbo and bov must be before the maf for the blow through to work right.

Btw- i am not knocking on any poster here, because everyone has a right to post whatever they want, but I wish there were less winks and leading talk and more actual tech on posts like this.  a few of you in particular are telling us you know for a fact how to do something and that it will work well on the 2.7t and 1.8t.  instead of flexing your e-knowledge muscles maybe actually tell us how to do it.

not a demand, just a suggestion from another user and thanks you for the information you have provided, however vague it may be.

sorry for the thread jack, my opinion on the main topic of the thread is that I have built all sorts of crap new and old, the stuff with a maf always runs the best.  dont defeat great tech when you can set it up properly for any setup. my $.02
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #51 on: June 24, 2011, 12:18:14 PM »

^^^ Agreed with everything you said.

That said, I think I'm going to copy julex's setup:


Order is in.

PMAS HPS slot sensor
http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1479798/300713

90mm billet aluminum housing (Draw Through variant)
http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1479825/

6-pin connector pig tail:
http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1479921/


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Mantis
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« Reply #52 on: June 24, 2011, 02:12:52 PM »

Mantis, run a maf, pre or post turbo doesnt really matter much because even the rich condition on shifts can be tuned out with the pre turbo setup and a bov, if you are running re-circ then all the better/easier for you.  I am ordering the pro-m 3" tube soon.  look into it, the price is right.  it is intended for blow through and i really suggest you go this route if your plumbing is setup to allow it.  both turbo and bov must be before the maf for the blow through to work right.

Btw- i am not knocking on any poster here, because everyone has a right to post whatever they want, but I wish there were less winks and leading talk and more actual tech on posts like this.  a few of you in particular are telling us you know for a fact how to do something and that it will work well on the 2.7t and 1.8t.  instead of flexing your e-knowledge muscles maybe actually tell us how to do it.

not a demand, just a suggestion from another user and thanks you for the information you have provided, however vague it may be.

sorry for the thread jack, my opinion on the main topic of the thread is that I have built all sorts of crap new and old, the stuff with a maf always runs the best.  dont defeat great tech when you can set it up properly for any setup. my $.02

I just don't have the room to run it on the inlet, the outlet is not ideal either
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dgn555
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« Reply #53 on: November 19, 2012, 05:08:45 AM »

I have same setup (800 hp+ Rs4)

I am runing without maf but ESP/ABS is totally disabled because of it.

Anyone know a solution to run ESP/ABS without Maf?

Thanks
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matchew
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« Reply #54 on: November 19, 2012, 06:22:25 AM »

Yep but certainly not for free.
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dgn555
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« Reply #55 on: November 22, 2012, 04:30:07 PM »

Yep but certainly not for free.

no problem, i can pay for it,

who will help me about this issue?
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matchew
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« Reply #56 on: November 22, 2012, 06:08:46 PM »

What fault codes do you have?

Which file are you using?
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dgn555
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« Reply #57 on: November 24, 2012, 01:52:49 AM »

What fault codes do you have?

Which file are you using?

Only error is P0102 Mass signal too low.

I am using the file which prepared by myself
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matchew
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« Reply #58 on: November 24, 2012, 07:00:17 AM »

Only error is P0102 Mass signal too low.

I am using the file which prepared by myself

So how am I supposed to look at the code if all I get is "I am using the file which prepared by myself." What is the exact numbers of the software?  Roll Eyes
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dgn555
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« Reply #59 on: November 24, 2012, 05:12:55 PM »

Hahaha sorry, i understand wrong.

8D0907551F is the my version.
http://nyet.org/cars/files/stock/8D0907551F.bin
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