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Author Topic: Replacing N75 on new build, necessary?  (Read 5834 times)
jibberjive
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« on: December 05, 2011, 11:42:47 PM »

I'm not sure if we're trying to keep this forum with longer, more in-depth threads, or, if out of respect for the original posts of threads, we should start new threads to avoid derailment.

I was going to post this in the GT wastegate thread, but I figured I'd make a new thread to not threadjack, and I thought good, short, searchable threads might not be a bad thing for specific questions.

Anyways, title says it all, would you suggest replacing the N75 valve with every new build?  The stock valve or the 'racing' version (I know the tune can be adapted for either)?  In my case, my engine only had 56k mi on it, but I'm thinking of replacing the N75 just so I have a completely fresh slate to start tuning on.   Thoughts?
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carlossus
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Leon Curpa Stg1+


« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2011, 01:02:22 AM »

I replaced my N75 just because I damaged the connector. It was working fine according to my logs but the replacement valve cured a couple of minor niggles that I assumed were due to my tuning.

My feeling is that some valves' response changes with age / contamination and may in some places not match the linearization so well.

For the sake a few $,£ it's worth it to know you're at a good starting point IMO.
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julex
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« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2011, 07:22:52 AM »

I replaced mine just for the sake of it... I have the original old one still in the box as a back up.

New unit was bad though so I had to exchange it for another one which worked fine.
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Jason
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Breaks everything!


« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2011, 08:24:55 AM »

Potential flame fodder:

I don't think anybody can convince me using the N75 to tune near or above the MAP limit is ever a good idea.

Can it be done and work?  I'm sure it can with enough work.

If somebody can show me a car that doesn't have boost control issues with density altitude changes and runs at or above the map limit, I'll become a believer. 

Until then I'll be an N75 grouch and stick with my old fashioned MBC.  Cheesy
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Gonzo
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« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2011, 10:53:13 AM »

Potential flame fodder:

I don't think anybody can convince me using the N75 to tune near or above the MAP limit is ever a good idea.

Can it be done and work?  I'm sure it can with enough work.

If somebody can show me a car that doesn't have boost control issues with density altitude changes and runs at or above the map limit, I'll become a believer. 

Until then I'll be an N75 grouch and stick with my old fashioned MBC.  Cheesy
I have done it. No issues. You can always run N75 + MBC if you want.
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jibberjive
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« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2011, 12:45:07 PM »


Until then I'll be an N75 grouch and stick with my old fashioned MBC.  Cheesy

What boost/turbos (& car) are you running on MBC only?  How do you like the drivability (partial throttle, etc)?
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Jason
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Breaks everything!


« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2011, 06:34:51 PM »


Until then I'll be an N75 grouch and stick with my old fashioned MBC.  Cheesy

What boost/turbos (& car) are you running on MBC only?  How do you like the drivability (partial throttle, etc)?

I am running K04/K16 hybrids on an 00 S4.  Boost is around "O" in "VDO" on my gauge.

Driveability is great.  You can putz around town.  You can take road trips in the mountains with subtle increasing and decreasing loads.  It just spools faster and is more responsive.  There's no part throttle surging or any other issues.

The bottom line is the mechanical element can't be beat - there's no PID to tune.  Dial in your boost and you're done.  Very stable boost control independent of temperature/altitude/etc.

The downside is you can't just fire up your laptop and flash a lower boost tune if you're going to the track, but all I did was back off the MBC and count the detent clicks to lower the boost for the track with a few test runs.

I would recommend the hallman pro with the ceramic ball.  I had a turbosmart that I ran forever on my k04's, and after about 50k it would stick open occasionally (meaning unexpected low boost).

In short, it's not like an MBC breaks the bank, and if you don't like it you can sell it.
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jibberjive
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« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2011, 10:21:09 PM »

The downside is you can't just fire up your laptop and flash a lower boost tune if you're going to the track, but all I did was back off the MBC and count the detent clicks to lower the boost for the track with a few test runs.

I would recommend the hallman pro with the ceramic ball.  I had a turbosmart that I ran forever on my k04's, and after about 50k it would stick open occasionally (meaning unexpected low boost).

In short, it's not like an MBC breaks the bank, and if you don't like it you can sell it.
I've had this bad boy ready to go in for about 3 years Wink



It's not the ceramic ball, but it is adjustable in-cabin, so if I use it I plan on having markings for different boost levels (and of course I'll have a boost gauge inside to verify).  I think I may just try MBC only and see if I like it.
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