Ah my bad, that is really nice, pushing over 300 hp on a stock motor is crazy in my opinion.


I see, good to know somebody actually done some conversion from na to turbo successfully, I know it is actually quite common on the honda civic's because they can take some power, and the engine, management is way simpler than on here , from what I've read.
We'll see what happens, It will be a nice learning experience hopefully, and I also got you beautiful people helping me .
BTW i'll read those books, "street turbocharging" is from Mark Warner, and the other one is by Corky Bell, if uncle google is right.

Welp. How hand's on are you? Surly the valves are bent to shit. Find another 20 head and plop that on. The pulley must have been loose. The keyway is only for aligning the cam with the right orientation of the pully. Pull the head off and upload some pics hopefully it's just a few bent valves. If you wanna sell the intake cam from your current failed head I'd be happy to buy. Here in the USA we don't have the naturally aspirated 1.8t and the cams are good for boost for a large framed turbo.

Where are you from? I have tons of stock valves I could send you post just pay shipping

It is common mistake to put the gear on wrong way round which results in broken key and engine damage sometimes. Gear goes on freely both ways, but when placed wrong, key breaks off when tightening the bolt. I've seen lots of broken gears like this and always remind anyone taking it off to put it back right way, otherwise it will break.
BTW I'm running turbo converted N/A AVV engine. Used N/A block and head with pistons, exhaust valves, camshafts and manifolds from turbo version. Had to drill a hole in the block for turbine coolant line and turbo support bracket (which I actually forgot but it's holding on good anyways  ).

Nice to hear your conversion went good tho afaik na camshafts are better for turbo application , no ?

As for wheel I dont know honestly. I did not touch the sprocket at all. I got the car from germany last year august and only did 7000 km with it since.


I did not take the head off at all since I got the car. Only thing I did is replace the cam chain tensioner in may, and corrected timing to be exact in june/july (was off by half or less tooth, car ran fine tho..) And there was no foreign object. Though one thing did happen, and that was an overheated block because a bad gasket literally let all the coolant out while going towards city, water indicator cane on , but i ignored it cause i literally checked it 5 mins ago , so i thought it was complaining about low water level, but in the city at one point i saw smoke and oil lamp came on, and immidietly pulled over and let car cool down on air and used warm water to fill up.

But I dont think that caused any damage.. One thing i noticed and assumed it was an illusion or normal is that the sprocket might have been spinning off center ? But Im not sure. Anyways I dont know whats next.. A valve job would cost me like 500 usd with local mechanic.. If I do it myself just the valves(no guides, etc.) are like 100 usd , used engines are going for 100-200 usd with 200k kmish or lower, so might bite bullet and get one of those.. What do you think?

Well turbo motors are around the same price, but I was hoping to swap head only , depening how the block looks , which i was supposed to take off tonight, but only could get halfway cause the sun is going down early, but tommorow we will see, So I was thinking same motorcode, because one issue with the turbo one is for example the VC has a vent vacuum etc, so the vacuums might not match up , these thing are what I am afraid off criss crossing parts

EDIT: My current tensioner is brand new it has like 1000km on it, so I dont need to change that

Long blocks are the same externally, you can use accessories from your car on  the replacement engine regardless of factory turbo engine or not. While your at it try and see if you can grab a set of injectors from injectors too. Saab reds, Volvo greens, audi tt 225, or even mk4 180 injectors. Save your self some money if you can get from a bone yard

So swap the valve coverage the problem? I use 2l 8v bottom ends all the time with 20v heads. I'd bet a 20v na would be very close to the na 20v. Also you'd be best off using the short runner intake from the turboed car and vent the valve cover to help expel positive crank vent once turboed.