Im not building my block so i dont mind the less power. I know i can tune for less low end, but the slightly delayed spool because of the stock mani is a nice safety against rod bending low rpm trq spikez.

Then if i build the block i will build a custom tubular mani to replace the stocker, and the up pipe. But for my big power needs i have my hotrod with a stroked nitrous motor. Should dyno at 700 rwhp with spray. So i dont mind keeping my 1.8t tame.

Good to know. Was it due to the cast up pipe design, or the stock mani itself?

Back to tuning this thing once again. Since the last posts i have built the motor with new rods, bearing and rings, installed a t28 flanged mani, 630's and inline pump. I ran a long to check afr last night and everything is running safe at 10 psi.  Am at the limit of my stock maf, and going to run a mafless log, If all is still in check, im then going to bump up the ldrxn to around 15-20 psi and log from there.

I would have been better off starting from scratch, but at this point its running and driving. Put about 1500 miles with it, putting on a bigger maf housing today and seeing of that was the bottleneck and how bad it was.

Basically drivability is great, power isnt where is should be. But since its my daily i can work on it as i go without much worry. Currently i can only benchflash at work, so tuning it will take some time since its alot of trial and error for a noob.

My laptop doesnt want to place nice...its killing me.

So after some research i found that the regular wideband 1.8t maf sensor element is the same part number as the 225 tt element. So throwing it in a vr6 housing should make it the same as a 225 maf. With the 225 maf table it doesnt want to idle well. Not sure if it is due to turbulent air or not since all i have is a cone at the end of the maf.

If the boost is there, and the fueling is there, but the power is missing, your likely culprit is timing.  What do your CFs look like at WOT?  Adjust timing so that the corrections are somewhere between -3 and -6.

I read this somewhere, but need to confirm/check out:

"As for ignition timing I'd start with around 25-27* at 0 psi. Ramp it down to around 12* at 15 psi. High vacuum areas will probably want 35-40*. After your torque peak you can start feeding back a little more advance. Probably 3* total between torque peak and redline. That should get you in the ballpark. Keep an eye on the knock detector and read the plugs often to look for signs of detonation."