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Author Topic: NOTORIOUS VR's M-box Stage 2++ and ALL VARIATIONS. NO NEW THREADS ON THIS.  (Read 249669 times)
shane0569
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Timing boost and fuelling. Currently trying to work on getting better mpg at cruise as I'm on the motorway every day. I also changed the settings for the anti lag in a basic way so I now have adjustable launch boost based on throttle position. 0psi to about 23psi, Works well at the strip. Anti lag does KILL spark plugs though, be carefull.

That's one of the best ideas I've heard...how is it working for you? Would love to get your current file if it is working out good for you. The idea of variable launch boost is awesome.
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adeyspec
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That's one of the best ideas I've heard...how is it working for you? Would love to get your current file if it is working out good for you. The idea of variable launch boost is awesome.

works very well, i just keep an eye on the boost gauge and keep increasing it untill i find the best point for hooking up. i havent tested my current tune with adjustments ive made yet. i might start another thread with my version on it.
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adeyspec
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Also, better mpg...I have been wanting to ask around on here to see if anyone has attempted to do such a thing...I commute everyday too and never get much more than 21 on the highway...if I baby it, then maybe 23...

i get a shave over 30 mpg at 75ish mph sitting at 65mph nets me circa 35-36mpg. thats uk mpg though but the same for you should be 25mpg and 30mpg
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Silver1
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How can i adjust the anti lag a little lower? i have tuner pro and an xdf file that shows all the parameters, i just dont know how to lace them together and the steps after that. Also when i no lift shift the car loses all its power for a quick a few seconds
Thanks
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corradovolksb
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In the anitlag folder click on the scaler for the launch rpm and change it to the rpm that you would like to launch at. do you have the mtx plugin for correcting the checksums? if you dont than you will need them corrected before you can flash the file or you will only be able start the car once and wont start after that untill you reflash the file.
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2000 Nogaro blue S4 Stage 2. VAG for life.
nyet
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How many miles were on yours that it had worn valve guides? When you say you assume the valvetrain was making a ton of noise

You know, interesting thing about this (long digression ahead):

From the DAY I first chipped the car (i bought it new) at round 20k miles it had problems making timing. I thought it was the tune, nothing more.

then i got AWE stage 3 at around 40k... and had TONS of issues. spent months with garrett et al who would try to fix it... this was back in the day before
anybody was self tuning. I got frustrated because my car never made power compared to other cars with mostly the same setup. It would do fine on race gas, just not 91oct.

I got so frustrated I was like, shit, i know the issues, i know what timing/afr/boost i want, i just need to figure out how to do it myself (because GIAC completely failed to get me anywhere close to what I knew should work). But obviously, there was literally NO publicly available information on anything. Googling for "KFMIRL" resulted in 0 hits. ZERO. When was the last time you got zero hits on a search?

So. timing/afr/boost. How hard could it be? 5 years later, and a shitton of work put into it, and i had a rough outline of the map locations and a rudimentary understanding of ME7.

I put it all the the s4 wiki, and soon after, tony started this site Smiley

But with all that, my car would still not make timing. So I thought, fuck maybe it's me. Maybe i'm still clueless and im missing something. So i start to tune a few other friends cars. Suddenly, their car is making more power than me. So now im like WTF! I figured i'd lower the compression, and at worst, ill get close to what I was seeing on other cars. Heads off. While they're out, I have them checked....

So i'm thinking, something bad happened either very early in the life of the car, or Hans was drunk when he assembled my heads.

So the theory is that the additional valve train noise may have been tricking the ECU into thinking i had knock when I did not... or.. something. No clue.
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
NOTORIOUS VR
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One thing to keep in mind is not engines are going to be built 100%... with the conservative stock power rating it's easy for the factory to allow sometimes large deviations in engine consistency.  Generally VW/Audi/BMW are pretty good but it does happen that sometimes they're just not built as good as the rest, or like you said in a previous life/owner didn't do something right and the engine/something suffered.
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SCHNELL ENGINEERING BLOG ·  STANDALONE ECUS · TUNING · DYNO · WIRING · PARTS · VEMS
Google Talk: NOTORIOUS.VR
n00bs start here: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
Mikey
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A good way to test if the noisy valvetrain is producing phantom knock is to wrap the knock sensors in teflon tape and try one third gear log to see if there's an improvement. I've tried this on other cars before with success. I'm leaning more towards the worn out valve guides leading to an oil contamination issue which was lowering your octane rating. This is the more likely scenario especially since you said it would go away with race gas. If it went away with race gas, it couldn't be phantom knock causing the problem. Anyway, nice story. Glad to see things evolving around here. You guys should be proud of yourselves.
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nyet
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I'm leaning more towards the worn out valve guides leading to an oil contamination issue which was lowering your octane rating. This is the more likely scenario especially since you said it would go away with race gas. If it went away with race gas, it couldn't be phantom knock causing the problem.

Wow. Excellent point. The thought never occurred to me.
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
mishaj
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« Reply #219 on: August 13, 2013, 12:12:56 PM »

NOTORIOUS VR

Thanks so much for sharing your work, i have flashed my s4 with this file which had 280 000 miles on it, even after 5K miles with this tune car feels and drives like a 800cc bike, got all the 22 psi of boost Smiley
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #220 on: August 14, 2013, 08:21:15 AM »

NOTORIOUS VR

Thanks so much for sharing your work, i have flashed my s4 with this file which had 280 000 miles on it, even after 5K miles with this tune car feels and drives like a 800cc bike, got all the 22 psi of boost Smiley

Enjoy.. but you're a brave man to do this @ 280k miles Tongue
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SCHNELL ENGINEERING BLOG ·  STANDALONE ECUS · TUNING · DYNO · WIRING · PARTS · VEMS
Google Talk: NOTORIOUS.VR
n00bs start here: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
PovGRide742
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« Reply #221 on: August 30, 2013, 03:59:15 PM »

Attached is NOTORIOUS VR's M-Box Stage II++ file modified for use with a Bosch MAF. Although the original file already had rear O2s partially coded out... I went back through and completely coded the rear O2s out in addition to complete code-out of the EGTs.

For Bosch MAF conversion, the following was modified:
MLOFS: 0.00 -> 200.00
KFKHFM: OEM A-Box values
MLHFM: OEM A-Box values
00012C7A: 20 -> 00

For rear O2 code-out, the following was modified in addition to the already-changed values for CDKAT, CDHSH, CDHSHE, and CDLSH:
CWDLSAHK: 3.00 -> 0.00
CDLATV: 1.00 -> 0.00
CDLASH: 1.00 -> 0.00
CDLSHV: 1.00 -> 0.00
CLRHK: 72.00 -> 5.00
CWKONLS: 51.00 -> 17.00
00011A72: 03 -> 00
00010C7A: 00 -> C0
00010C7B: F3 -> FF

For EGT code-out, the following was modified:
CDATR: 1.00 -> 0.00
CDATS: 1.00 -> 0.00
000192CA: 01 -> 00

I also would have added anti-lag/no-lift-shift, but most of the M-Box files I've added it to had values of F3, F8, F3, and 8A for addresses 0008B3A6, 0008B3A7, 0008B3A8, and 0008B3A9. Instead, NOTORIOUS VR's original file had values of 34, 23, 9D, and 02. I ran into this on another M-Box file, and I believe it may have to do with being the original M-Box revision. Regardless, I didn't feel safe modifying the values as they weren't familiar to me and won't do so until someone says it's okay to do so.
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marti2000
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i downloaded adeyspec's 2.2 version of this tune and i made change to it to work with rs4 injectors i also increased the boost by redline to 16 psi and set anti lag to 4000rpm i flashed it to my freinds dbox and got p1650 and evap missng dtc's i did set CW_CAN_R to 0 but still got the p1650.the car has k04 rs4 turbos rs4 injectors rs4 intercoolers  rs4 cams ported cylinder heads a bosch 044 fuel pump and no cats.the car is a blast we raced a m3 rs4 b7 and rs4 b5 with chip to 420hp no one was a match for us i was so suprised how this tune worked its amazing Cheesy i dont know how much hp the car has now because we have no dyno in my country but its so fast max speed on highway was 300km/h at 7000rmp on 6th gear :p i want to thank every one here for the help and original maps here my version of the tune if it could be useful to anyone.
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BraxS4
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« Reply #223 on: October 28, 2013, 01:50:01 PM »

anyonehave this for hitachi maf?
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stage 3 b5 S4
PovGRide742
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« Reply #224 on: November 03, 2013, 06:56:42 PM »

anyonehave this for hitachi maf?
Here you are...
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