NefMoto

Summary:
2001 all-road i got off craigslist with STK conversion already done by PO. PO did things hastily and under the guise of creating a drift missle.(Weld diffs, rwd conversion, wiring harnesses resting on down pipes, chinese t66 turbo, ect) needless to say I have it torn apart and am rebuilding as I am wanting to build a nice DD for myself with a bit of grunt.

Right now I have the entire drive train torn apart and am rebuilding.

Currently:
-01e rebuild under way with JHM carbon syncros
-stock 2.7 heads at machine shop for inspection, pressure test, and valve job.
-block at machine shop for hot tank and hone
-rotating assembly will get balanced once block comes back with ok bill of health with IE forged rods.
-PTE5858 with .87 hot side on its way
-PTE 46mm wg
-EV14's on the way (298's)
-clutch went with JHM stage4 and rs4 pressure plate, already worried it may not be enough, we will see.

Undecided:
-thinking walbro 450 intank as it seems to drop into allroad tank/carrier
-sensors:
       maf: was planning on hitachi but not sure
       map: was planning stocker but now unsure
       primary 02's: was thinking pre turbo each bank as I'm worried about tuning with a single in the DP.

tuning:
Was thinking of tuning myself, still might, just scared at this point and still learning.

Goals:
I'd like this to be a daily driver with some grunt, but reliability will take precedence over power, give and take all that. The most power I'm looking for would be 500whp. If that could be achieved in a reliable set up, that's where I will stop. If to many reliability areas must be dropped to achieve that will happily tone the power down. Not really planning on launching it ever, high way rollers sure.

Well that's about it for now, will upload some pictures when I get my desktop back up and running.

please feel free to chime, any input is appreciated.

I have an S4 at the shop with a build very similar to yours. Not a fan of the spool, but when it gets going, yeah it's fast. Not really something you could road race with, and too laggy for a DD in my opinion. Just making sure you know what it's going to feel like when you're done.

you say that because of the hot side?

That, single turbo, and overall size of the turbo.

Ah understood and appreciate the input.

I'm just saying, it might be a good idea to drive something similar to what you're building in advance to make sure it's going to drive the way you want. I enjoy my K03 tuned car a lot more than this 500 hp ST...At least on the street. Good example is that 1200 hp 16v turbo (Boba). It's only good in a straight line on the expressway at speeds that will land you in jail, or kill you, and making cool youtube videos. I have mad respect for their build, but I personally don't think the car would be fun to drive most of the time.

SHHHHH stop telling the secrets of big turbos. I think everyone must have one to understand its not what they want.
The pursuit of a HP number forces men to do crazy things.
Spacecadet don't listen to this bs, I say get a bigger turbo i've always thought that single turbo 2.7t should be T4 60mm
compressor or larger. The vw audi world is spoiled by tiny little turbos that spool instantly, if this were a rb25 we would all be calling
him a chicken for not running a 67mm.

On a side note, I love big turbos but I would not drive one everyday they suck at that. I drive a na car, lots of torque and and no turbo
spool time.

Don't forget octane limitations.

Just because you have turbo that can do 40 psi doesn't mean you can get fuel to burn properly at the cylinder pressures in question

uh oh, all input considered but sort of at a point right now that financially changing or turning back is not an option. Onward, to disappointment!

Well there is always e85, and headspacers. I thought he said he wanted 500hp his setup should do that before 40psi.
My guess would be 25 to 28. I know you werent saying he would have to run 40psi, but I just want to give him some
hope.

If you guys could look at my cam chain timing and verify I'd appreciate. I've checked about 15 times and would like to verify

Passenger head:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01698passHead_zpspu6rjcvj.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01698passHead_zpspu6rjcvj.jpg.html)

driver head:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01700driverHead_zpsxrphhr3h.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01700driverHead_zpsxrphhr3h.jpg.html)

Thanks.

See attached.

appreciate that. I've verified it a few time just nervous.

I dont have a head bank that matches the above though, when on the marks they line up with a tooth and a pit like the 1.8t diagram.

bank 2: tooth tooth i can match with 16.

bank 1: pit pit i can match if i do the service manual alignment as below which is how i originally timed them:
pit
 \
  |
  ^
mark ho head

if any of that or my ramblings make sense.

Looking like im good, pieces coming together!

I don't think that diagram could be any clearer. If you have a 2.7T, you have two banks.

lol it makes sense and matches was just having some thinking out loud stuff going on. appreciate the attachment.

I cant see the notches in the cams ignore the arrows. Just count pins ignore the rest till after

cool, figuring out oil feed now. PO tapped the feed block NPT and used teflon to seal 0_o. Thinking ill get a new distributor block, AN banjo for feed one side and plumb an oil pressure sender in the other. Also welding up the coolant lines to delete aux pump.

pipes welded up, tested, installed. Stuck because have wrong water pump gasket.

also picked up some 17z calipers. dear jesus they are big!

Motor together, preparing to weld up exhaust manifolds.

Question: At what point are the stock fuel rails/ FPR no longer valid?

decided to just go with stock fuel rails/fpr for now. Milled .151" off the manifold so the injectors seat nicely.

waiting on pipe for manifolds.

well I failed at manifold version 1. Everything fit, but i never test fit them with the bottom studs bolted! so bottom nuts contacted pipe would not fasten, should have parts for v2 Saturday.

Is there anyway you could post pics?

sigh ive been avoiding processing and uploading them. heres what i have thus far
motor out, helper in background:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01580saturnVwoahh_zpsowteoxcm.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01580saturnVwoahh_zpsowteoxcm.jpg.html)

Taking motor apart:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01596saturnVwoahh_zpslbtg1143.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01596saturnVwoahh_zpslbtg1143.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01596saturnVwoahh_zpslbtg1143.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01596saturnVwoahh_zpslbtg1143.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01605saturnVwoahh_zps22i5tzun.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01605saturnVwoahh_zps22i5tzun.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01637saturnVwoahh_zps5jaywtwd.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01637saturnVwoahh_zps5jaywtwd.jpg.html)


rebuilding trannY:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01639saturnVwoahh_zpsqdph2va5.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01639saturnVwoahh_zpsqdph2va5.jpg.html)

(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01653saturnVwoahh_zpsdm4uy664.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01653saturnVwoahh_zpsdm4uy664.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01655saturnVwoahh_zpswlswmqkj.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01655saturnVwoahh_zpswlswmqkj.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01657saturnVwoahh_zpsts6jyzso.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01657saturnVwoahh_zpsts6jyzso.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01661saturnVwoahh_zps85mxsdjs.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01661saturnVwoahh_zps85mxsdjs.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01666saturnVwoahh_zpsq7hqau5e.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01666saturnVwoahh_zpsq7hqau5e.jpg.html)

putting heads back together:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01647saturnVwoahh_zpsdquujsew.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01647saturnVwoahh_zpsdquujsew.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01670saturnVwoahh_zps8pksikze.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01670saturnVwoahh_zps8pksikze.jpg.html)

tested out Chem dip to remove carbon. it works amazingly.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01674saturnVwoahh_zpsvs0cyamc.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01674saturnVwoahh_zpsvs0cyamc.jpg.html)

block painted crank going in
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01694saturnVwoahh_zpseduaoqay.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01694saturnVwoahh_zpseduaoqay.jpg.html)

ie rods:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01695saturnVwoahh_zpsn1xwywac.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01695saturnVwoahh_zpsn1xwywac.jpg.html)

mostly assembled:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01702saturnVwoahh_zpszetwbekv.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01702saturnVwoahh_zpszetwbekv.jpg.html)

waiting for manifolds:
(https://scontent.fsnc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14570336_1305553046154076_1014211270079051236_n.jpg?oh=a85e12523b0b9f68bcfb9369ad41d359&oe=588B8CA4)

I know I'm late to the party, but I agree. Not a huge fan of gigantic lag monsters. If I wanted that i'd build a supra or an old GT-R

The beauty of the 2.7t is good power (400-500whp) with very low lag and usable torque band. It is very rare for displacements that small.

To each his own though.

I hate it when you pop up and make sense and shit, SHHHH we want to build dumb big turbos and silly unusable
power in a very small power band. But we will be smiling big on the highway driving straight.

Oh well, there are also people that use this turbo on 2.0 displacement. He will totally slay them in the corners too ;D
I appreciate all build efforts, and the 2.7t will still push better out side of spool than a smaller engine. Go for it  :)

Well I continue to learn more about tig welding. Was welding up the new manifolds today randomly the weld would just turn to shit and start spraying like i was stick welding. Could not figure it out. I cut the parts off, re-cut, re-ground, re-cleaned so many times. Gas flow check, purge check. BAM randomly it would happen again. Then I was so frustrated with the events i smashed the pyrex cup on my torch.

I did figure it out.

Long story short, don't weld with the door open when its breezy :(

On the single vs twins. I agree lower spool more area under the curve faster car, however; for me I have always wanted a big single car(that's relative). Car came with a Single on it already so a lot of the provisions to have twins are removed and it is now cost prohibitive to have them over the single. I do appreciate the input though and I really have considered it several times, and still am.

I'll probably end up unhappy, c'est la vie.

other ? what did you use on the piston and rod.

https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A

everytime i go into the shop i expect to see this where i left the can:
(http://vignette1.wikia.nocookie.net/avp/images/d/d4/Alien-acid-for-blood11.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110102045252)

Haha. It surely cleans good, those pistons look new.
Yeah dont weld with the door open unless you have huge gas flow  ;D We always save on welding costs by welding all the way in the back of the shop (in the summer) when the doors are open, so we can maintain low gas flow and still make good welds. Contaminated steel also can cause strange welding issues, similar to what you get from missing gas.

Got new manifolds finished and bolts actually clear this time:p
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01712saturnVwoahh_zpsibaxw3dg.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01712saturnVwoahh_zpsibaxw3dg.jpg.html)

merge collector with turbo inlet v-band:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01715saturnVwoahh_zpsmppeatth.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01715saturnVwoahh_zpsmppeatth.jpg.html)

I'm over here like lets see that tig torch and some up close of those welds?
Are you back purging everything?
Are you planing to use a flex in one of the up pipes?

Lol I'm an amateur/hobbyist welder so your not gonna get any weld porn from me.

All the stainless is purged, much to the dismay of my wallet.

Was going to do a flex on each side.

Your hardware/ fabrication components looks nice. I've only seen one flex between the headers on STK's. Not sure if you need 2.

I agree one hundred percent one flex other no flex.
Choose your flex carefully there is alot of junk out there.

tig torch broke in half :( looking for replacement

update got new tig torch finally.

got up pipes fully tacked up.

Mistake 1: i did not fully bolt/secure the heads manifolds to the heads while tacking *im dumb* so had to cut off a few tacks.

Lucky mistake outcome: Upon remove the manifold realized it was actually pretty warped on one side, put some dykem on it and ran it on a belt, and it was not going to seal at all on the end.  Faced both manifolds nice and flat, fully bolted to heads now and working on finishing tacking and will start welding.

(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01717saturnVwoahh_zpst9hdpl9e.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01717saturnVwoahh_zpst9hdpl9e.jpg.html)

I'm still very much learning but every now and then I get lucky.

obligatory weld porn,
(https://scontent.fapa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15036238_1353735658002481_1691598556053163209_n.jpg?oh=3858e159245f037268d1705a2dee8eee&oe=5887FBFF)

so looks like ev14's (298's) are not going to work with 2.7 heads. back to injector research sigh.

finished up pipes, wastegate, relocated heater block feeds, waiting for some AN fittings so i can finish the turbo oil feed/return then ill get the thing in the car so i can finish the down pipe

Bro this thing is going to make some power when its done.
I mean I hate log manifolds, but bro thing will rock. I missed
what rods you put in this thing, but they are going to have have a job
to do.

I think log manifolds are fine for single turbo V engines. Saves space, less heat radiation and for top end you have a turbo anyway right? As long as the up pipes are equal length, the exhaust pulses will hit the turbo quite evenly :)

up pipes, wire insulation, insulation everywhere done. dont mind wierd glow, had oil on lens.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01735saturnVwoahh_zpsmidhytfo.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01735saturnVwoahh_zpsmidhytfo.jpg.html)

got motor back in car, oh the swearing!
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/IMG_20161209_144437319_zpspj1k8yek.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/IMG_20161209_144437319_zpspj1k8yek.jpg.html)

turbo clearence is spot on, score:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/IMG_20161209_144452186_zpsn2z0tln3.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/IMG_20161209_144452186_zpsn2z0tln3.jpg.html)

I'm hoping tomorrow to finish the down pipe and exhaust. then onto the cold side.

Anyone know the part number for the clip that holds the clutch line into the slave cylinder?

downpipe done. Waiting on a 1.75" and 3" vband so i can finish the exhaust.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/IMG_20161212_103928775_zpsz8tufgqy.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/IMG_20161212_103928775_zpsz8tufgqy.jpg.html)

117 injectors on the way, was sent wrong size an fittings for turbo oil drain, waiting on those.

Could not figure out part number to clip that holds clutch line into slave cylinder so had to order whole new slave :(

front end is going on soon, getting anxious!

I had exactly the same thing, and my dealership could only get the complete assembly to replace. I then ordered the older type (steel) slave cylinder, which has the female threaded type connection. At our local VW dealership they hated the new plastic type as well, was a cause for many clutch problems due to air getting in the line.

turned this on lathe today so i can recycle instead of vent to atmosphere.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01740saturnVwoahh_zps1bwwhgs1.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01740saturnVwoahh_zps1bwwhgs1.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01739saturnVwoahh_zpswxsaalph.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01739saturnVwoahh_zpswxsaalph.jpg.html)

starting on cold side
(https://scontent.fapa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/15540648_1390022681040445_6830866666955396034_o.jpg?oh=a58827712b0ed296ebe1847b2d6885b8&oe=58AFDC3E)

ev14 117's did not work out and I ended up getting upsold to ID725, which are probably just modified 117's but should work i hope.

got one side of the cold side done, just waiting on a flange to weld on for bov, working on the other.

Stuck a bit trying to figure out how to plumb in the wastegate dump, its so cramped in there its hard to mock up, need a way to index the vband flanges so i can bolt it all up, mark the flanges, take it apart then bolt it up in the shop and plumb it in.


Got waste gate dump finished:

mocked:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01749saturnVwoahh_zps5byt2aaq.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01749saturnVwoahh_zps5byt2aaq.jpg.html)

tacked:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01751saturnVwoahh_zpsqzk25y84.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01751saturnVwoahh_zpsqzk25y84.jpg.html)

welder'd:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01754saturnVwoahh_zpsgdikkwre.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01754saturnVwoahh_zpsgdikkwre.jpg.html)

started reaching out to a few tuners cause im seriously terrified of the process. :(

got the id725's in and had an epiphany. This whole time i have been pulling the metal clip off the plug, un plugging, and putting the clip back on. turns out you just push down on the clip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

please don't judge me :p

hahaha, well there are probably also be people who can clip on a plug but cant weld an exhaust  ;D

I watched my friend do the same thing in his garage.  Then I showed him the magic.  Mind was blown.

Ha ha. I was doing it wrong too until somebody showed me :)

got exhaust finished but its F'in unruly to mount on the car as one piece. After many rage fits I ordered another vband and will be breaking the under car exhaust system into 2 parts so there is some hope of installing it by myself.

Was finalizing the charge piping today, one weld left. Gust of wind came and closed the hood, and I dont have the release hooked back up yet. So good news is my underhood shenanigans clear the hood, bad news is now i have to figure out how to open it.

charge piping done:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01757saturnVwoahh_zpske9rx3lk.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01757saturnVwoahh_zpske9rx3lk.jpg.html)

installed:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01758saturnVwoahh_zpsn6pmccc2.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01758saturnVwoahh_zpsn6pmccc2.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01760saturnVwoahh_zpsnjtr1kbb.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01760saturnVwoahh_zpsnjtr1kbb.jpg.html)

-Shift linkage reconnected and working, machined a "short shift" linkage.
-heater hoses hooked back up.
-catch can attached to car and plumbed in.
-wiring harness position finalized and secured.
-drive shaft reconnected.
-various other things.


cut and welded some tabs to my charge pipe so i could mount this vacuum distro block. Vacuum system plumbed:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01771saturnVwoahh_zpsq6qslci0.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01771saturnVwoahh_zpsq6qslci0.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01772saturnVwoahh_zpslvrd0bff.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01772saturnVwoahh_zpslvrd0bff.jpg.html)

Got air intake welded and installed.
2nd exhaust piece underneath welded and installed.

remaining:
get wideband, boost, and oil pressure sender wires inside cab.
Wire in zetitronix.
Wire in Fuel pump
add fluids

pray

was planning on first start today; however, got everything ready to go, went to put in coolant and there are leaks.

reservoir  has a big crack in it. upper rad hose has small leak.

tempted to junk yard them but also dont wanna risk another junk part, but jesus the radiator hoses are expensive!

Junk yard them for the satisfaction of engine start and a good run; then put them on the 'things to do' list and hope they don't pop in the meantime.  ;D

Found more leaks, 2 pin coolant sensor in cross pipe, bad o-ring.

weld on the an fitting i welded onto the heater pipe cracked, off to buy brazing rod.

an welds brazed over. Side note brazing is weird.

Kind of fortunate, I had to tear quite a bit out(turbo, uppipes, downpipe) and found a couple things that might have been issue down the road.
- oil distro block had two washers on one side of each banjo, looks like the old washer "stuck" to the block and i did not notice during assembly. Probably would not have been an issue but resolved anyway.
- waste gate v-band into down pipe was not seated properly, would have leaked for sure, but just been noisy/smelly.

gonna go to junk yard tomorrow to get overflow tank. I ordered one online but wont get here until Friday and I'm wanting to see if this thing will fire up!

ready to go just waiting on base file from tuner.

welp she wont start.
have air, have fuel, have spark.

starting to think timing is off and i have bent valves. sighhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

well it started, but its running like a tractor.

It's either missing or timing is off and valves are properly smashed.

consistently starts now, but only running on 4 cylinders.

2 and 6 do nothing but missfire.

off to buy leak down tester. preparing myself mentally for the inevitable on the way.

well leak down was fine. All cylinders between 8-10%, granted that's with a harbor fraught tester, but even still leads me to believe as of now the valve train and rings are sealing properly.
i put in new plugs too the ones that were in there were fouled to all hell. Will test it once i warm up enough to go put the charge piping back in. 

Cool so still having misfires, but stethoscope'ed the injectors and 2 and 6 are not making much noise if at all. Also new code showed up saying barometric and map sensors have implausible signals which I have read means 02 sensors shorted out and ECU is fried. Previous owner had main loom stuck between up pipe and down pipe so that is highly plausible.

New direction is source ecu. fingers crossed.

Appreciate the updates, right there with you!  Good times!

could not find ecu locally for reasonable price. Tuner sending me one. will be down for a few days waiting but works out cause its 2 degrees here and I dont really want to be outside anyway :p

junk yard had one s4 in stock so i took a drive hoping to get the ecu. It had already been pillaged but I was able to get the 3 spoke wheel and airbag.

argggghhh PO cut all the electrical connectors off the clock spring so now my cheap wheel upgrade is going to end up costing me.

oh well clock springs aside

old wheel:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01776saturnVwoahh_zpsy52hnp4n.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01776saturnVwoahh_zpsy52hnp4n.jpg.html)

new wheel:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01777saturnVwoahh_zpsvp7t56a4.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01777saturnVwoahh_zpsvp7t56a4.jpg.html)

17z's installed and plumed:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01781saturnVwoahh_zpsu66cikvd.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01781saturnVwoahh_zpsu66cikvd.jpg.html)

I had to cut and re-flare every brake hard line on the car, which was a real treat due to the fittings corroding onto the line.

Also got a vacuum bleeder which i was sooooo stoked about because i hate bleeding brakes but my little compressor just does not  have the oomph to keep it happy so gonna have to switch to the ol' fashion method.

ECU should be here today.

oh yea also pulled a clock spring out of an a6 at the junk yard, so wheel is fully installed.

ecu in, weird implausible map/barometric codes gone, but still have misfires.

Lowered my stupidity level slightly and actually looked at boost gauge. only holding -10 at idle, obvious leak somewhere but cant seem to find it.

starting to lean towards smashed valves again. Going to try to build a smoke tester tomorrow. and do leak down again maybe i just did the test incorrectly.

You can always get one of those cheap scopes and look down the sparkplug hole. These things are like 10$ now and plug into your phone.
You sure all injectors are running properly? You wont see much vacuum with misfires. Also checked all pcv valves around manifold?

pulled off fuel rail, found some fuel that seemed to be seeping out of the rail around where its brazed. Definitely not safe, but I doubt it was causing miss fires.

Pulled off intake manifold, found some potential vacuum leaks, though they held fine @ 22psi pressure test, ill be welding them shut this time to eliminate variable.

pulled off valve cover.

with crank at top dead center, cam notches line up with cap arrows. This is the cam chain timing I have. I checked it 1000000 times but if anyone could please verify it.
(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab58/clane029/cam_timing.jpg)


did leak down with valve cover off:
3: 6%                                                                   6:50% air coming out of intake valves
2: 6%                                                                   4:10% noticable out of intake
1: 20% air comming out of intake valves               3:10%

as the queen of hearts would say, off with their heads.
Half tempted to pull the block to and go 3.0L.

Okay talked myself off the 3.0l ledge. gonna stick to 2.7 lol

Can anyone confirm if you can put the heads back on the block with the block in the car with ARP head studs?

Heads off. Man alive all cylinders are very black. rich rich rich or something else was going on.

the F'in valves look fine to me. Gonna get them pressure tested tomorrow.

Bummed out.

poor poor headless 2.7
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01785saturnVwoahh_zpsy3kfvhz7.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01785saturnVwoahh_zpsy3kfvhz7.jpg.html)

Sometimes carbon deposits can keep valves from closing or cause rattle. Can you open the valves with the cam? If you have a defective hydro the valve might not open..

Welp machine shop fessed up to botching the valve job. They will refund me the cost of the rebuild and a little extra for my time.

Don't know what to do now. On the one hand they seem to be willing to stand by their work and do right by customer. On the other hand I dont really want to do it all over again so I might find a shop that has build 5v heads before/a lot.

Pulled some 2.8 heads at the junkyard today.

Anyone know where the wire for pin 39 clutch switch is in the manual harness?

The brown/white wire? (Or maybe brown/black?  I can't remember).  It's way up under the dash, right at the base of the A-pillar. It's in a tight loom and getting enough slack to work with is tough. There are actually two colored the same in the same vicinity, the one that's relatively easy to get to isn't the one you want.

Hmm maybe, I mean i put a manual engine harness in my car that used to be a tip. So it already has a wire on pin 39. I was wondering where in the harness that wire exists or enters the car? Are we talking about the same thing?

its pin 14 on the white plug under the ecu if anyone else needs this.

Sorry, I missed your reply a couple of days ago for some reason.  Glad you got it sorted out.  (We were talking about the same thing, after a fashion.)

2.8 heads are at different machine shop that was recommended by a few VW/audi people i talked to. Fingers crossed.

Also dropped off supertech valves, iconel exhaust, and IE springs.

I finally gave up on finding s6 recaros.

Pulled these seats today

Old seat(I've since turned it into little sim cockpit):
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01788saturnVwoahh_zpsyzktn2lt.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01788saturnVwoahh_zpsyzktn2lt.jpg.html)

New seats, helper approved:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01787saturnVwoahh_zpsqvyy7zsm.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01787saturnVwoahh_zpsqvyy7zsm.jpg.html)

getting bored waiting for heads so made a video sealing off the back of the intake manifold.
https://youtu.be/t0gLkDRELg4

Found an  unmolested greed allroad at junkyard today so pulled the hood

old hood:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01792saturnVwoahh_zpsbvrqo8ft.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01792saturnVwoahh_zpsbvrqo8ft.jpg.html)

new hood:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01795saturnVwoahh_zps0cc21n1v.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01795saturnVwoahh_zps0cc21n1v.jpg.html)

Got my heads back. they look nice.

Building them the lifters i ordered from IE 5 of the exhaust lifters do not fit, different part numbers.

I'm getting so sick of company mess ups pretty frustrated.

stuck again until lifters resolved.

This is pretty awesome

IE overnighted me the correct lifters.
-got heads built.
-got drivers head installed
-dropped an arp stud down the water jacket on passenger side so decided to call it quits for the day on the car to avoid compounding mistakes.

ITS RUNNING NO MISSFIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

excited and re-motivated!!

Awesome

Maiden voyage complete! Drove around house up and down some hills loading the motor up as much as possible.

Things discovered:
-alignment is terrifying.
-not shifting as smoothly as I'd like, but did improve noticeably just from first drive.
-to loud. not obnoxious but I thought resonator going into muffler would be nice and quiet but it still is to loud for my sleeper goal. Might weld in a glass pack section, might put a silencer on.

Things forgot:
-the rear diff is still welded, completely forgot. Oh the joys of driving around with a locked rear end....
-forgot to hook up clutch switch, though seemed no side effect.

Terrifying moments:
-Header wrap smokes when breaking in.... I thought for sure the whole thing was about to go up in flames lol.

Not sure how I'm going to make it 750 miles before taking this dam 1.5lb spring out!

Welp just went to fill her up and I'll be damed if every drop i pumped in did not end up on the ground underneath the car!

the gas station guy was pissed.

Good work!

What happened, the quattro fuel tank is leaking? :)

Sigh I do not want to pull the tank out.

Huzzah! fuel leak was because i pinched the gasket on the fuel pump cover.

Did some driving last night to get some break in miles. I'm ~160 miles in.

Stoped at a light, a hooptie pulls up next to me, and is making a very noticeable metal on metal chirping. Light goes green,  he pulls away, and the noise persists. FUCK!

Pull into a parking lot. Oil pressure good, running fine. Pop hood and there is a distinct metal on metal touching noise. I can clearly hear its external to the motor and assume its from something in the accessory chain, so I roll the dice and drive back home.

Pull serpentine belt off, noise persists.
Pull front pulley off, noise presists but different now.
Pull off timing covers and what do we have!

My fucking timing idler pulley decided it actually wants to be a hole saw.

(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01801saturnVwoahh_zpsmhxd6lsa.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01801saturnVwoahh_zpsmhxd6lsa.jpg.html)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/oishisakana/DSC01802saturnVwoahh_zps1qjiervd.jpg) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/oishisakana/media/DSC01802saturnVwoahh_zps1qjiervd.jpg.html)


Looks like the actual roller sleeve slipped forward on the bearing and went to town.

Thankful i caught it before any timing incidents could occur, and at least its into my covers it cut and not my block.

Anyone ever seen anything like this? I thought maybe I installed it incorrectly, but it was never present until yesterday. Also, you cant install that bearing wrong because its indexed. So what to do now.

I'm hoping i can get ECS to replace the part and my timing covers. we shall see.

ECS will just replace the failed part.

I ordered a new tensioner, relay arm, tensioner bearing and idler bearing because im paranoid and some how new parts have less chance of failure? sigh

gonna go try to pull some timing covers today.

Timing covers acquired.

Found an EUU diff car local cross checked VIN and ratio is 37:9. should be good there now no more chirp and semi tractor turn radius!

timing and front end put back together with new parts. diff put in. back on the road!

Its so much nicer driving without locked diff!

I got in a little traffic pin today where i needed to gun it to get over and i hit boost..... holy poop she took off. Hopefully my clutch forgives me.

I need to figure out how to code my abs module now.

~600 miles in.

Slave cylinder leaking.

After struggling with the special hell that is the stock slave cylinder connection for the better part of a day, I gave up on it.

I removed the fitting from my slave cylinder, machined it down in length and bored it out to accept 3/16th line. Cut the line and flared it onto the fitting. Curse what ever that stock connection is.

Break in miles complete. I've been boosting all over! pretty fun. Going to put in my 16lb spring tomorrow.

hmm i under estimated how difficult getting waste gate springs in is.

Okay, so I was able to get some threaded rod at the store, cut it into 3 peices, thread that into the waste gate, then use a nut on each to push it down onto itself, huzzah!

Now I need to figure out why my banks are out of trim ~3%. I replaced injector orings, intake manifold gaskets, and 02 sensor still they seem to be off.

adaptation( idle ) bank 1 sensor 1:-1.7%
adaptation(partial) bank 1 sensor 1:14.1%

adaptation( idle ) bank 2 sensor 1:-0.8%
adaptation(partial) bank 2 sensor 1:6.3%

 Banks are out.

I have:
-pressure tested
-smoke tested
-replaced bank 2 02 sensor
-swapped injectors from bank to bank


I need:
More input or thoughts on what to look for. Anything is appreciated.

No B2S1?

If you have no unmetered air, most probably it will fuel suply, either fpr filter pump....

lol sorry i should have just posted the screen shot.

copy paste got me again! corrected

Small update, got fuel trims figured out.

I've been driving, tuning and enjoying the car!

going from a little TDi golf to this thing, the power is still terrifying lol.

Got some control arms and tie rods coming here soon I'm gonna put on.

Still need to figure out the ABS module.

Okay, I had to remove the clock spring i pulled from the junkyard as it was the wrong part number, remove the long wire/spinning part off it, and put it on the old one that was in the all road. thats done, got ride of steering angle implausible signal.

Now if i could just figure out how to get the abs/esp system test to run lol. Drove around in circles in a parking lot for about 30 mins, finally left when i noticed a bunch of people in the soccer field were watching me lol.

Got the ABS system test to run finally.

I had this error as well in my ABS module.

01423 - lateral acceleration sensor (g200) 35-00

That's all it was, no actual error, no text description, nothing. At first I just assumed since the 35-00 matched that of the system test that it was part of that. After failing at getting the system test to work for probably an hour I decided to pull the acceleration sensor to see if it would throw different errors.

I pulled the sensor, came up with implausible/short circuit errors for it and the other sensor in the unit. That led me to believe that maybe I had just hit a weird state.

Plugged the senor back in, the odd g200 error code did not come back, and the system test executed on the first attempt in the parking lot this time.


ABS feels nice.


Now I need to replace my turbo oil drain, i have a 90 AN fitting right off the drain, and I think it it causing some oil to push the seals under boost. I think ill just get a barb fitting and slide the hose over it on the turbo side, cant use an AN straight as its to long and has clearance issues.

the front wheel hub upper control arm pinch bolt can suck a fat one.

yeah it can

Ok guys, while I agree f*&% those pinch bolts in general, Here is what i do and have great luck.
1st if possible spray the night before with nice pen oil (kroil, wd40 pro, even pb blaster) then propane torch
heat area after breaking the nut loose maybe a turn while heating the spindle start trying to get the bolt to spin,
once the bolt spins it will come apart.

Just finished the drive from Colorado to Southern CA for a move. Other than a random coolant hose failure that I was able to mc-guyver to get me into town for permanent solution, trip went fine.

Dropping 5000 ft in altitude might be the most apparent performance mod I have made yet. holy smokes.