NefMoto

Hi, I finally got me7logger going.

I got some tuned box of unknown history, noticed it was pulling timing so I put the stock ECU back in. But I see even the stock ECU is pulling some, especially cyl 4 for some reason?

This is a AMB 1.8T, stock 518F firmware. Maybe there is some mechanical problem. Any suggestions what else to log to see why it is pulling? Also the boost PID seems screwy (fairly large overshoot at the start?)

Not on the graph, but pedal/throttle angle is 100%, IAT is 45C, engine is warm. adaptation is sane values, few percent.


(http://i.imgur.com/2SXBzZx.png)

any suggestions would be great, thanks in advance

post .csv log instead. can tell much more from actual logs instead of screenshots.

but you are already pulling timing before your pull starts, actual AFR is a little ustable and that overshoot looks.... interesting?

injector duty cycle, wastegate duty cycle, Boost PID variables would help.

but timing pull seems excessive at those boost levels, what octane are you running?

I don't have the csv with me right now, I'll do another log with those variables tonight and post it here.

This is with 91 octane.

Ok, took a third gear pull. I'm getting 6 degrees of correction on one cyl now (!) (and its cooler out today).

(http://i.imgur.com/LxZGLSX.png)


I attached csv with temps, PID results, fuel, etc.

thanks again!

That is a helluva lot of overshoot. Increase req boost.

This is the factory firmware though, so I wanted to fix whatever mechanical fault is causing this before I start tuning. I wouldn't think this is normal behavior for stock code.

Is it possible the N75 is sticking a bit, it overboosts, and the ECU pulls timing to straighten it out?
Looks like it starts pulling before boost exceeds requested though... So probably not?

I've got no DTCs set (other than my usual catalyst efficiency one).

Might be a good idea to check spark plugs and knock sensors.
But first you need to sort out that overshoot.

The ECU doesn't specifically know if your wastegate is sticking, it can see if you under or overboost and there can be many causes for that, sticky wastegate being one of them.

iirc level 1 torque intervention has timing pull, so that might contribute to some of the problems you are having.

Can't have a look into the log because I'm not home, but I will have have a look later on.

Sorry, didn't realize it was stock.

Not sure why it is overshooting, but that is likely causing knock because stock fueling is lean.

There is also a ton of EGT enrich up top (because of the excess boost), which also may be leading to timing pull.

Sort out your wastegate issues, and the rest might follow. You may have a torn/leaking wg line.

It's common for me to see overshoot on OEM files. Passing power I assume?

Wouldn't lambda be offset too then?

Ok today I cleaned out the N75 valve (bit of crud in it, hoses look good). Overshoot is resolved, so that's good news. Pull isn't, however, and looks like it is still getting EGT protection enrichment up at 5k+, right?

(http://i.imgur.com/a3ilmHL.png)



One problem area I've noticed on this car is that at low speed / high load (eg climbing a cloverleaf, 2krpm) if you give it throttle it will often stumble a bit. I noticed glancing over at the computer that this thing pulls timing on acceleration no matter what, basically. Even at super low speed/load.

This is a 1k -> 2k rpm "pull" in first gear, versus throttle angle - car is barely moving and it's pulling timing.

(http://i.imgur.com/xaRIBWp.png)

ill attach the CSVs that made those two pictures.

Log EGTs

That would be tabgbts_w 'EGTForPartProtection'? that's in the attached logs.

for the 2nd gear pull in the prior post it starts off around 700C, goes up to 925 when it starts enriching bigtime, and peaks around 950 at the end of the pull


or should i log one of these?

tabgm           , {EGTModelBeforeCat}
tabgm_w         , {EGTModelBeforeCat}
talsuf          , {EGTModelFiltered} 
tavvkm_w        , {EGTModelBeforePreCat}     

Did you check your knock sensors? Try re-torquing them. Could be loose knock sensors.

They look pretty difficult to get to with the intake manifold on, I'll try taking getting to them sometime in the next couple days.

Guess I need to take the IM off to change my injector cups anyway.

You can get to the with a long extension and a socket. No need to remove the intake manifold, even for the cups. But be careful when you get to the cambelt side sensor, you're going to be pretty close to the alternator and may risk shorting out on it.