NefMoto

i have a stage 2 map i been trying to get the Lambda Control - Bank 1 down under 25% under higher load around from 6000 up, would i need to rescale the lambda map? here is a log attached

i think you should be worried about that you are knocking all the way through the log and 12 degrees at redline.
and you got some massive dips in requested lambda at 5500 and 6000 RPM?

very limited info in that log, any way you can log some more variables?

what is the setup on the car?

i did notice the knock and im unsure how to edit that map again, my car is a 2006 mk5 jetta 2.0 tfsi with a 3" K&N cold air intake 3" catless downpipe 2.5" mangaflow axle back and a gfb dv+ god speed twin innnercooler  what maps would i touch to tune all that stuff to make it better also on stock HPFP and LPFP

here is the file and i can't remember how to export my dif from winols stage 2 file and ori file, maybe i will have to start from stock file and redo it for a stage 2

write ori file, mount ori intake (if maf diameter is different) and take some logs at first.
always be sure the hardware is okay.

You may have a bad hpfp!

log 1,2,31 together in turbo mode in 3 or 4th gear from 2000 till redline
10,20,141 in another run and 115,118,106 in the last one

I tried 3 different hpfp all with same result, I'll do log with the groups you said and report back

Did you check the intake cam lobes? What does/did the follower look like?

replaced it, follower looked good, cam looks good as well

Maybe you've reached the limit of your current hardware. Log LPFP duty and pressure yet? There's also a pressure limiting valve in the high pressure rail that opens at approx 120 bar. I've also heard reports of the pressure sensors losing accuracy with age. Maybe it's just time for a HPFP upgrade...

yes if i can find up rated guts for a HPFP i would get them, and im pretty sure i did log all the fuel HPFP and lpfp, i aslo tried the updated fuel rail sensor and the bars dropped alot, what groups is it for the LPFP, i am sure these are the three logs for fuel, the new fuel rail log is the orange base fuel rail sensor

106 should be LPFP on most med9

Please log the combination i wrote down because your logs dont have rpm for example.
Dont change anything on the vcds files, just upload.

regards

Yeah I noticed I didn't add the rpm in them fuel logs I did, I can't find my original intake at the moment it's stored, would the cold air intake be fine to log on stock file?

its all about the diameter of the maf.
Which one do you have?

or in other words

have you changed a map for the intake? if not, does it idle smooth?

I ahve the k&n cold air intake, I haven't touched the map for maf, it dose idle okay but it will have this random hip cup,  at idle but no misfires, I did notice my themostat is reading 90 on dash but when I just logged it was maybe at 80 going to Change that out tonight,

Here are logs on stock file, but with intake on, don't remember we're I put the stock on.

Hmm, HPFP looks okay to me because its holding stock 110bar very good.
LPFP is not @ 106, you have to find the correct block. Should show numbers up to 6bar.

Dont know whats going on. How good is the fuel in your country?
How old are your Spark plugs? Correct ones?

There is lots of retard and maf diagram looks shit. (should be related)

Interested in other opinions on this as med9 is still new to me.  ::)

The fuel I run in East coast Canada is shell V-power 91 octane plugs last summer with 5000km on it, change cam follower every 50,000km intake fuel pump has about 250km same as the hpfp, that is on the car currently. Should I edit maf map,

I think this may be the correct block 231

This is the intake. I am using like you asked

On a stock tune, the fueling isn't being pushed like it is on a maxed out Stage 2. Lots of folks have fueling issues at stage 2 levels, in which case they upgrade the HPFP. Octane isn't helping.

The lastest fuel logs are from the stock file I could do one on the stage 2 file, and is group 231 for the lpfp

Same measuring blocks, same way, both files. HPFP and LPFP request and actual. Didn't we already see with the stage 2 log that high pressure actual is below requested, and lambda is adding 25% at wot? What else do we need to know? Lower the charge pressure, or upgrade the HPFP.

Why does he have the ignition retard?
Is it because of the maf size?
I dont know the diameter of the stock maf because its oval, not round circle.

Im out of knowledge

Can't know for sure but, these things come to mind?

1. 91 octane and/or overly aggressive ignition timing/boost profile.
2. Fuel system that can't keep up. It's adding 25% which is all it can do. Clearly it needs moar.
3. Engine health

Why is/was there all this focus on the maf? I rarely see maf's fail on these.

The engine health see good, motor now has 250,***km  follower replaced when I did motor swap, I did notice my themostat wasn't ready correct, I am replacing that this weekend when I have a few days off,  so 91-v-power isn't the same as 93-v-power

The engine health see good, motor now has 250,***km  follower replaced when I did motor swap, I did notice my themostat wasn't ready correct, I am replacing that this weekend when I have a few days off,  so 91-v-power isn't the same as 93-v-power

If someone on here has up rated hpfp guts. I'd be happy to buy it, 

Friend of mine mounted bigger intake/diameter@maf in his mk6r and he had -12degree across the rpm range instantly!

rofl

sure...

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80189

@birchbark506
delete dtcs even if there are no dtcs and have a look into measurement block 32 for fuel trims

Carbon build up on valves? It's a big problem on bmw petrols, makes them run real crispy for some reason

Whoa, lower load results in more requested timing? Wow tuning is easy! I'll just use an infinitely large MAF, I'll get infinite timing advance!

Be like Nike.  :)

https://www.kmdtuning.com/kmd-tuning?product_id=1153 (out of stock, but cheaper)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-autotech-parts/hi-volume-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit/10-127-100k/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxJnNBRAMEiwA8X_-QZPqDkuy2ohgz_nLXpxRal921t_6twau3pAFPCvkuRElfFsRnQI4DRoCv5AQAvD_BwE

Okay, I'll try to lower the load request, also I just replaced my themostat today too,

You're confusing too many things.

Read this one more time. if you don't get what I'm saying, i think you badly need to review the basics:


Actual load is not the same as requested load.

Lowering load request just means requesting less boost

less actual load will end up with different timing due to your timing tables, not because of some magical method to get more timing.

Underscaling your load (by using a larger maf, but not adjusting the MAF tables) to get more timing is beyond stupid.

I could be wrong, but Bark (OP) has an OEM maf housing.

I was referring to this:


along with the fact that the suggestion was (sadly) taken seriously.

Nyet yes, I didn't even clue in when you said that, gotta stop reading this stuff on my phone and start reading from the computer.. and I have a K&N typhoon but today I did fine the OEM air intake

How dose these log look i did lower the boost,  log "boost" is after clearing DTC and "boost 2" i did not clear DTC and the last log i did clear DTC

Still a lot of knock retard. Your lambda looks really strange bouncing up and down.

What would I edit to make that from bouncing up and down, I did notice that. And isn't -7 knock max? A buddy of mine his 2006 a4 on stock everything have a knock off -5/6

Have you changed anything hardware wise?

Nothing other then a motor swap. Due to cam chain tensor end up breaking, everything else was just switched over

Timing maps stock?
There is no real ignition angle in any of your logs.
Why not log the combination you did in post #14.

i will do that today so the logs in post 14 i should use them instead of what i been logging

new post on pg 4 is with updated logs and 130 bars

here is updated logs with 130 bar and boost lower

Overall timing is quite low - looks obvious that you are running low octane fuel.

Your lambda is still doing some strange things bouncing up and down.

i run the highest octane that they offer on my side of canada and that is 91 octane and what cause the lambda to hit 25% jumping up and down :(

Then add some Octane booster. My testing (which was quite extensive) found that the NOS race formulation (in the black and yellow bottle that lists the up to 70 point boost) actually makes a significant difference.

Further, as a fellow Canuck, I know it's available at any Canadian Tire for $17.

No Ultra94 available where u live?

In germany they have Aral102  ;D

There is a HPFP seal that can fail and dump fuel into the head, it affects fuelling and eventually thins the oil out and kills the motor. Does your oil smell like fuel?  These motors are very octane sensitive, octane booster or watermeth are very beneficial at stage 2 level. High EGTs/pinging have a bad rep of killing ringlands on the BWA/CDL motors.

No my oil dose not smell like gas, but I'll check again, yes I know I could buy octane booster from candian tire east coast Canada here in New Brunswick. I'll try a bottle and see what happens as well

What I mean is that your lambda goes from 0.80 -> 0.70 -> 0.80 -> 0.70 and so on. This is not normal. Low octane would most likely cause it to go rich because of the KR and being further off from the optimal iginition angle. It would not cause it to bounce up and down like that IMO.

i do see that, would the be hardware or software would you think?

Question guys for my lambda I see my map is very bad could I set it LAMFA all back to stock value or do I have to edit it some and if so how much do you edit it by is it

post lamfa map

Question is:
Is your lambda in the logs sh*t because of your tune or for some unknown reason?

no one can deduce anything from this pic.  full logs or bust.

here are the newest logs i think i have to turn the boost down again i see the lambda is still up in the 20%

Car was put away for the winter did some work to it, had to replace my catless downpipe the flex was broken in it, new front PCV new bank 1 pre cat and new post cat o2 sensor i did some log on my Lambda % and it looks like the lower the RPM the higher the lambda % seems to be, i did two logs, should my LAMFA map be lowed in the lower RPM for the Lambda % to go lower,

 spec are
3" catless dp
2.5" axle back
3" K&N Typhoon cold air intake
added vis stage 1 HPFP
have to install RS4 FPRV
these logs were done on Stock inner cooler and stock DV as i thought LTFT was still there due to boost leaks as i have none now.

Changed the subject of thread to something more immediately useful.

Like what?

I changed it for you. It was "stage 2 tune" which is pretty general.

Thank you

How can I bring my lambda % down in the lower rpm up high it seems okay to me. Or do I have to edit my maf map

i will get more/better logs today

i found a bunch of air leaks one being my gasket behind the oil filter housing fixed that a few o rings were leaking around the pipes from oil filter to pcv, now i can start were i left off, quick question is about more about KFZWOP & KFZWOP2 & KFZW & KFZW2... to pull more timing you minus the current valves

here are a few logs stock and tuned file dose everything look okay