NefMoto

I purchased the car for 3,000 a couple years ago with 80k. I never really liked the body style on the passats but I was sold on the practicality. I appreciated the chassis/powertrain/driveline than the shell. After a couple weeks owning it I kind of fell in love with the heated leather seats and capacity. During the winter months it is an absolute tank in the snow. So I decided to keep it and make small improvements. Stock it felt slower than a prius. So first step was I needed to tune it. Started out maxing out the stock injectors between 17-19psi. Then 6 months into owning it I smack two deer within a month. Thats two separate deer hits within a month span. ::)

So the insurance company cut me a check for more than I paid for it and I took the money and rebuilt it! One of the few perks of being a mastermechanic.



So what I've done:-----
-repaired most of the body issues including passenger rear fender rust = 500$

-oem turbo took a crap 6months after 18psi (intercooler end tank was leaking oil so that may have been a factor in overspinning turbine shaft and destroying the thrust bearing)
-sai and 3 inch downpipe -still trying to tackle the P0139 issue I have the rear o2 zip tied out of the way mainly because the ebay downpipe I used had the o2 located in a impossible to install position. = 60$

(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15439749_10100317276244739_4558374050394133254_n.jpg?oh=a68d8d908308e3f679a7051e5383d9d8&oe=5AD65BB2)
(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15542289_10100316774076089_1462254775184259557_n.jpg?oh=795035bd240171db88e2ff5280444b5b&oe=5ACA41C6)


-ebay forge knockoff since the 710 took a crap = 25$ (works just fine)
(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15492541_10100316774081079_6967703686590799822_n.jpg?oh=1f3666c06575052c4fa4c12926c8b8b0&oe=5A94E7E7)
-replaced intercooler = 25$ from salvage
-pcv cleanup
-found a decent ebay company for my ko4 hybrid- rebuilt with oem upgraded thrust bearing and seals = 225$ + 45$ for rebuild kit
 
(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15941504_10100327863702389_559306450725915680_n.jpg?oh=4aee989402cb1fde2b403040c75c842b&oe=5A9D1FF6)(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15871434_10100327863717359_822094518460781555_n.jpg?oh=aa15c6ccafd3bb6ec749ea859914e385&oe=5AC95C78)
(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15895396_10100327863737319_325239879508049298_n.jpg?oh=147959fe8232ca465ef7687169ff1004&oe=5A995982)(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15873095_10100327863792209_4447031726619348897_n.jpg?oh=ae2be8479196f2473b007ca780a6c9c9&oe=5A9F0E59)
(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15871995_10100327863817159_789104503224908788_n.jpg?oh=d77fbe60e6d128fbcd8d9067f9a67ac3&oe=5A9BD5CE)
(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15965764_10100327863842109_2459545962532206565_n.jpg?oh=7c6b9be41c33befaa931a7f142ec9a4f&oe=5AD3EFCB)(https://scontent.fewr1-3.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15894689_10100327863862069_906122007997345536_n.jpg?oh=eee8d076f27d3f108135935b1007642b&oe=5A9B3047)


Now oem ko3s is about 50.1mm on the big end and the inducer is 36mm(KO3S has a bigger compressor wheel than the ko4). As you can see the compressor is 51+mm and the inducer is 38+mm. Which isn't much but its better than nothing.

Now this next image is a huge reason why these ebay hybrids go so fast with high boost. The lower bearing set is what the ebay turbo came with. If you look you can see that there is only 1 oil feed and less contact area then the upgraded. Also the shaft bearing has no oil passages.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to replace the seal on the turbine side because the diameter is larger and the machined spot for it isn't wide enough.

Each of these turbos come with a data sheet confirming the center section was balanced on a vibration sorting rig. Which is pretty cool to see. So I tossed it in and gave it a shot. I had a feeling the wastegate spring rate would be higher but I wasn't sure how much. Ended up with well over 22psi (I don't have a boost gauge), and the car ripped but I don't have the fuel for it. Took it down to 12psi after I adjusted the PID. I'm really happy with my gamble.

I'm searching for some injectors 440 or 550 at a decent price since I'm on a tight budget so if anyone knows of a decent injector on the cheap let me know!!!

P0139 - Code out the rear o2 via eskonf.  s4wiki goes over this.

Injectors (I've bought from this guy MANY times)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Bosch-EV14-52lb-550cc-fuel-injectors-1-8T-turbo-Audi-A4-TT-VW-Golf-Jetta/282502745563?epid=787224696&hash=item41c679cddb:g:3OAAAOxygPtS-wdp&vxp=mtr

fuckin' deer.

I thought I already coded it out via eskonf but I'll look over it again.

I actually was looking at those injectors the other day! I'll order them up and post some maf/injector duty logs to compare my gains. I had no idea how much of a joke the stock injectors were until I pushed it past 150% RL. 140-150g/s stock injectors were static between 19-21ms even with 4bar.

Hybrid ko4 currently has 15k on it and still running strong!! Can't wait to see what it can do. When I run out of compressor I would like to do a billet compressor upgrade   this company mamba makes compressor and housing kits. I'm eventually going to upgrade it to a 46x59mm wheel. I would like to keep shaft speeds down and extend its life a bit.

there is second eskonf probably
all these hybrids usually a waste of time and money

Once you unscrew the nut holding the compressor wheel you need to rebalance the CHRA, because the compressor wheel's orientation towards the turbine and shaft has changed.
So I don't see what you are on about with balancing.

The "reason" this turbo won't last long is because it's not balanced.

Prj that is why I marked the compressor to the turbine shaft and realigned the fastener to the same position...... The orientation of the turbine, shaft and nut are unchanged. I was on about balancing because I was amazed they provided the certificate. I am fully aware that I would need the CHRA rebalanced if the position of the compressor to the turbine changed. Although some manufacturers balance the compressor and turbine separately. Some balance not only the turbine to the compressor but also the fastener and even the thrust bearing.

This turbo was VSR balanced you can tell by the corrections made on either the compressor and/or nut. Low speed balance machine would probably be better but I'm not complaining.

Fukenbroken - I think you maybe right on the 2nd eskonf

I totally agree ko3-ko4 hybrids are typically a waste of time and money. Normally I would steer anyone away from going this route if they are looking for power but this project was based on my budget daily/winter beater. First longitudinal 1.8t I've owned! I needed a replacement turbo and felt like building a hybrid using an ebay ko4. This isn't another ko4 owner looking to break 300-400hp lol. I'll be happy if I see over 180g/s.

 I'm not looking to add another project car on my list. One 30r 1.8t mk4 is enough for now 40k on the built motor but everything else is going.

New 550cc injectors in thanks for the recommendation SB_GLI !!! I literally just took .08ms off stock TVUB which dropped the curve 25% at 14volts. KRKTE from .1052 to .0517. I only had 30 min of free time yesterday so I couldn't get a log in but it fired right up. Idle is very smooth so far. I'll get some logs in and post a comparison from the maxed out oem injectors.

So I finally took some logs and found fuel trims where at 25+% with lambda at about 1.10 lambda Idle and part throttle. Can anyone confirm the  correct conversion value for krkte on the DQ ecu? When I found it comparing bin files the KP file had the conversion set at .000111 but the krkte value on the DQ file looked wrong based on the equation for stock injector (.0631 from what I remember) then used .000167 conversion and it was .10571 which was right for the injector size.

KRKTE address
0x1F83A

The address seems right otherwise I would be super rich but I'm not sure if the conversion is wrong. So before I chase my own tail dialing in the krkte can anyone confirm the conversion?

krkte is calculation injection. you still need tvub injector dead times too. the ev14 have higher ms values then stock injectors
 

I've adjusted TVUB. I just wanted to confirm the conversion factor for KRKTE on the DQ file I currently have it at .000167 but I've read that may not be correct. The KRKTE at the .000111 recommended factor didn't seem to be correct though.