NefMoto

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum with a serious problem. Today I have taken my Golf IV 1.8T AUQ to get it remapped by a local tuner with very good rep. He has deleted the SAI, EVAP and secondary labmda sensor from the software and the harware of the car. Then I asked him whether he can make a hard cut rev limiter on this ecu. He said that it will not be a problem and after about two hours the car was ready and was driving very well. However he told me that the hard cut rev can "fry"  ??? the ECU if it is used often. I told him that I will not abuse the car everyday and that this is my daily car. So, I started the car from the shop, make sure that the limiter was there and poping  ;D and returned home. When I was parking I noticed a kinda slight burning wires smell but I though that it was coming from outside. Locked the car, climbed the stairs happy and after an hour, I decided to take the car for a spin once again. Turned on the ignition... and the car wont start at all. I have tried about 34 million times with no success. The car has died completely. I have a VCDS 17.1, so I connected the cable and the ECU has stored 16985 Internal Control Module P0601 - 35-00 - Memory Check Sum error. The code cannot be deleted no matter what. I have disconected the battery terminals and bridget them for an hour with no success. Called the tuner and he told me that it is most probably the ECU. How can an ECU be fried from this hard cut super dooper rev limiter used 5 or 6 times? No matter, he warned me previously so its my fault...  So I towed the car back to the tuner in order to search for a solution. He put another ECU from a working car with the same part number, adaptated the immo to my key, with no success. The car cranks freely the rpm needle is showing the rpm vcds shows the rpm when cranking. Then he opened my ECU solder another chip for immo, I think, flashed the original map and now the checksum error does not appear. Car wont start again and now it is throwing ECM POWER RELAY OPEN CIRCUIT 17069 - P0685 ERROR. Changed the J271 relay... still nothing. All ECU fuses are fine. The coilpacks are not throwing spark. My questions is, is it the ECU that needs changing or there is something that can be done to it to fix it? Please help and thank you in advance!

This story seems familiar. 

Tuner sucks.  ECU is fine.  Stop flashing random files.

Yeah he will not touch my car again that is for sure. What could be the problem? Any thoughts?

Realistically you need an ECU flashed with the correct software for your car, PIN code for cluster and ECU as well.

It's the responsibility of the guy who screwed it up to fix it.
If it is a one man in a shed operation with cash in hand style deal, then you just learned your lesson. Congrats.

The last thing he did is to flash back the original file he extracted from the ECU before the remap and adapt the immobilizer with vcds because he tried to start the car with another ECU. He was recomended by a lot of people through out the forums in my country. He charged a bit more for the remap but I though it is worth it... well I was wrong. Basicly he returned the money but now I do not have a car and cannot rely on him. I will be very helpfull if someone give me any directions on where to start... Maybe I cannot explain everything down to the smallest detail but I'm trying my best. So,bBefore my car died I noticed a burning wires smell... Any ideas? Thank you!

Checksums are wrong.

You're asking us if we know what wires smell.  You're the one with the nose at the car, not us I'm afraid.  Have a look.

I did have a look at all the fuses and wires beneath the steering wheel/fusebox/engine bay area and nothing is out of the ordinary. After the checksum DTC disappeard, the J271 relay appeard. I have changed the relay cleared the code, however the car does not start... I want to understand can something(relay, particular wire or fuse) can be shortened after a bad coded/flashed hard cut limiter?

By "did have a look" I mean checked everything with a multimeter.

Wrong file for the car?

Can the original file/s from the ECU be wrong?

Sounds like he's just put the NLS code on from here to me, and it's stomped over the RSA/checksum stuff.

If so, get him to flash a file on without it and you'll be fine.

Did he ACTUALLY flash the original file though?  Did you see him save it and then re-upload the original, uneditted file?

I knew I'd seen this story somewhere.  It's on Edition38.

You asked "Can I upload my remap from my ECU to another one with different part number? Thank you in advance!"

That implies YOU'RE doing it.  Is this the case?  Are YOU the tuner?  It's no issue if you are, but if you are, upload files so we can compare.

(https://media.makeameme.org/created/brace-yourself-drama-fksq20.jpg)

yes

Just a typo, I do not have any kind of tuner software... and I'm very far from a tuner... When the guy told me to search for another computer I did not find one with the same part number so I wanted to know whether a ECU with a different part number can fit my car. He also told me to look for ECU with the exact part number so he can disable the hard cut and put only the remap file in order to avoid the same situation... And yes he flashed the original file in front of me because in the end I was so pissed off not able to drive my car. Additionally English is not my native language, so sorry if I have missguided you.

I think he's just messing you around.

I mean, that relay will cause a no-start and can be caused by blown fuses.  You said you've checked fuses but worth actually pulling them and testing.  Not that many ECU fuses.  Probe for power. 

If that ECU is truly original then there's no reason for that code unless a fuse is blown.  Likely FTOMN at 0 has popped the fuse.

in my case ftomn = 0 blowns fuse but in this condition ecu doesnt responding at all - no epc / mil / diag etc
i have similar ecu once - iirc 8N0906018H with als/nls at 0xB3000 and nls_count 0x384FF0 prevents to cs error condition after a day of driving with no problem. Death code should be removed from eeprom and with no als routine its all ok. I have no time to dig it so just removed routine and everything was fine

I have checked fuses 10, 29, 32 and 34 but they were ok. Chaged them with brand new ones just to make sure. My original J271 relay showed 155ohms resistance between pins 85 and 86 the brand new showed 0 resistance.

Start chasing wires then

I have checked them but I will check again. Thank you. I will come back with the results.

Not trying to be rude; but it cannot be true that the ECU is original, the fuses are fine, the relay is fine and the loom is fine.

No, no you are not rude in fact I am very happy that all of you are trying to help me with this issue. Most likely I did not explain well. 1st the tuner uploaded the remap file with hardcut limiter. Car's behaviour changed completely and at redline it pop like crazy, loved it! Then I drove back to home and while I was parking I noticed the smell that I told you earlier but I did not pay atention to it because I thought that it was comming from outside. Then after an hour or two I was not able to start the car. I have vcds 17.1 so I checked for DTC and the checksum error popped out. Called the tuner and he explained that the ECU is most probably fried and that he can not do anything( he warned me that this could happen but if I use the hard cut regularly) those were his words. Then he told me to look at the second hand market for ECU. I did not find one so I asked at the other forum whether there is a chance to crossflash from one to another ECU. However after 2 or 3 days he called me and told me to bring the car to him. He opened the ECU and as far as I remember he changed some chip which is connected to the immobilizer and after that procedure the checksum error was gone but the J271 relay error appeard. Previously he was not able to delete the checksum error with vcds. The car did not start so he flashed the original stock ECU software and still nothing the coilpacks are not throwing spark to the plugs. After that I checked all the fuses, wires from the fuses and J271 relay wires but all appears to be good. I will doublecheck the wires to be sure. Thank you!

Before he changed the chip for the immobilizer he tried with another ECU with same part number and the car did not start.

Now I am with my stock ECU and stock Software.

So just the fact that he returned the money does not change anything.
He fucked up the car, he has to fix it. Where do you people come from WTF?

He warned me that this could happen, it was my decision so I cannot blame him.

No, what has happened is not because of hardcut.

Just had a look at the logs.  It's knocking on all 4.  Reduce boost.  Your request is flat too.

I have not uploaded any logs.

Wrong thread sorry

Yeah except what was said is not true, it's nothing to do with the hard cut.

This hapends when checksum is no calculated.... put a car back to tuner... its need desolder flash from ecu and put back original file, or file with computed checksum with programmer ofcourse ...  ::)

I think this tuner is newbie  ;) BR

Read the thread. He has apparently.

if you have files, flash and eeprom put it here i correct checksum and immo off for you

Judging by the faults, most likely it had death code in EEPROM, and then 2nd time when pulling shit something was damaged.

Hello all! I have left the ECU to a guy who deals with car amplifiers and all kind of electronics. Today he called me and said that the SMD's responsible for the signal to coils and injectors are fried and that I'will need to buy another ECU, because those elements are hard to find.

My ECU part number is 06A 906 032 MJ, however I cannot  find a ECU with this number. Which ECU's are compatible with my engine?

Finally, I have found ECU with the exact part number and my car started!!!   8) 8) 8).... Now all I have to do is to adapt the ECU to my car. Today I talked to my tuner and he said that he will send me the remap file, so I can upload it here. Thank you very much all! I will come back with the file.