NefMoto

Hi!
I got big problems with AFR tuning one a little bit modified S3 1.8T. It runs really lean. Measured fuel pressure and it stays steady all the time. Car has hydrid turbocharger, downpipe, free flow exhaust, upgraded fuel pump and new Bosch 0280158117 (550cc) injectors.
I calculated KRKTE = 0.059. Fuel pressure is 3bar. Idle is good. Problems starts only when I am going WOT.
anybody can take a look at logs. If needed, I can post also tuning.

Did you change tvub as well for the 550cc injectors?

Also Lamfa, is that set still at stock? as if it is then it'll run lambda 1 until BTS is hit then dump fuel to cool

There is something hella wrong with ur tune/setup, your actual lambda is nowwhere near requested.. Also please dont do WOT runs with 23 AFR lol..

I changed LAMFA. attached pic.
KFFDLBTS zeroed. KFLBTS slightly modified.
I am not doing WOT runs, I see that lambda is hell out of needed.
I tried to run stock TVUB and changed it also, but nothing much helps.

Modified KFMLDMX. LDRXN, KFDLULS, NMAX. KFMIZUFIL, KFMIZUOF
KFLDIMX and KFLDRL because it is overshooting boost.
KFMIRL stock. KFMIOP just little bit raised max load column.
Nothing unusual.

Honestly I dont know wtf u did there are times when your afr is above 30 and stuff lmao.. This looks like a hardware issue to me , sadly the tuners aint online atm.

No way the lambda is so high. It is too lean to burn. Try to change O2 sensor

Lambda is new. Also injectors genuine Bosch and new. it is lean for sure, because when try to accelerate car is shaking/shuddering. Fuel pressure is measured and all time steady (new Walbro fuel pump). MAybe someone can take a look and give opinion about software?

Then explain why are you getting AFR's near 23 , 30 and even 50.. Gasoline engines cant really run after 22AFR because there is no combustion event. You must be getting misfires or something is really wrong.

if fuel pressure are steady then fpr not connected to the vacuum line

IDC peaks at 42.5%  ???

This..

IDC is about 37% on 2nd log, with 9ms injector on time @ 110% load... you are simply not injecting enough fuel for the amount of air coming in..Your requested/actual load seems to be fucked too :D

how did you calculated 37% IDC?
I am using formula:  ti_b1  *  nmot  /1200 = IDC.
Can't find what I am screwed up.

There is so much going wrong here I don't even know where to start.

What is up with your boost req/actual?

What are your trims?

Why aren't you logging lambda control if you are having AFR issues?

Throw out your "tune" and go back to stock except for KRKTE, log again.

by Lambda control you mean fr_w? or lambda PIDs (dlahi_w ;dlahp_w)?
Something is wrong with this turbo, because it is overboosting really much.
I tried with stock (only KRKTE), but turbo is so much overboosting that I can't do nothing and it really behaves similar. First of all I will try to find out where is problem with it.

What do you mean overboosting lol... your N75 should be controlling the WG(if its stock setup... no info on this- hybrid what? k16/k24 comp wheel, turbine etc...or wat), if WG is open there is no way the turbo can build boost or spinin' too fast. I'd do what nyet said, stock soft, with krkte/tvub adjusted to new injectors and get idle /trims right then other stuff.

If his wastegates aren't opening, though, nothing is going to work.

The whole "really huge turbo" thing on these tiny little high compression motors just never works right. No boost until 5000 rpm, then wgdc of 20%, then out of injector or getting tons of knock.

Waste of time for 99% of builds.

Cut back your wgdc significantly. Hell just disconnect the n75 until you get your fueling right.

Dollars to donuts, though, you have a major hardware issue with those fueling issues.

Turbo is K04 hybrid with billet wheel.
Wg spring could be really hard and then N75 doesn't play big role. Ithanks for suggestions. Will search mechanical part. Any thoughts about my file?

Yeah I guess, but there are some build/setups that can work. For example this vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOPvRK49Siw

GT30x with eliminator kit(which is what I'llbe running but custom made  ;D), and it fully spooled by 4k ish RPM that is not too bad(assuming the vid is legit), 3.5k -6800 rpm is pretty good but I get some people dont want higher spooling turbos  :D

So I found my fueling problems. All this mess is because of fault: 17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve.
At first I deleted it and then rised rpm limit by LKVDKNMN. And then AFR was going really lean as you can see in logs. I put it back stock and all is fine with fuel. Just at first start car is in some kind of limp mode. N75 duty cycle stays all the time 5%. When I restart the car fault is still active, but no limp, fuel matches LAMFA and N75 duty cycle is normal like it should be. I am going nuts with this problem.

Second problem now is overboosting really hard. I tried to lower values in KFLDIMX and KFLDRL, but this doesn't help much. As I understand from reading forum I need to change boost PIDs: KFLDRQ0, KFLDRQ1, KFLDRQ2. So I logged lditv_w; ldptv; ldrdtv. Any suggestions with which PID do I need to start? Log attached.

Your wg is totally nonfunctional. Modifying your PID will have no effect.

so WG spring is too stiff.
any suggestions what to do with first problem - pressure drop. I have checked all piping and there is no problem. 90% of pipes are new. how to eliminate this fault? I have done many 1.8T, but never had this problem with this fault and AFR going so lean.

You have 90 g/s and 1.5 bar pressure  ???

https://kaross-chip.lv/ (https://kaross-chip.lv/)
Latvian pro tuner tuning car on nefmoto ;D

This is not TDI, from what you wrote you have no idea how the ECU works, never mind basics.
Start with pressure testing intake.

Sorry I know I will get downvoted, but this is too funny.

Nice website though :D

and what? If I can't find solution, I can't ask for help?
Intake is pressure tested twice + all piping is new.

No you are offering professional service and posting things like this:

Shows you don't have a clue how this ECU works.

Posting stuff like this:
Means you don't even know what a PID is. You also know nothing about ME7 boost linearization, which is actually accurately described on this forum.

It's different between asking specific question and being absolutely nowhere and offering people tuning for money.

It's like basic shit that you have no grasp about.
First step is to force 0 wgdc, and if it overboosts you have a hardware problem.
Second step is to log primary against secondary load and see what is going on there and which one is being used.
Third step is not to modify maps that you have no idea what they do and read more.
Fourth step with different turbo is to tune pre-control correctly.

TBH you should not be offering any tuning on ME7 platform or for gasoline cars in general until you do some learning, maybe it's just me, but this is disgusting.

at least I am not taking money for this. What can't be said about you. You are so arrogant, no wonder here in Latvia your reputation ins't very good. Not long ago you tuned one car from Latvia, got only 300+HP (1.8T) which was capable of 450HP and took 800Euros for this and told that it has mechanical problems. People was really mad, put on this car VEMS and after straight tune it got 430HP and 500Nm. You think it is normal? You will remember it. Audi A4 B6 with Borgwargner turbo. This is too funny. Your nose is up in sky. Instead of assaulting me you could show me right direction. I can read, I can invest time, I can pay for information. I am not asking anything for free, like - tune my file, show me map address or something like that.

And still back to topic. Already found that this is hardware problem. it is overboosting with 0%WGDC.
Which of these maps are related to my first problem? None. AFR problem is because I wanted to delete this fault: 17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve.
So my question is why and how ECU gets this fault. I have read before that this could be software bug, but not from proven source. I not that dumb, I have checked piping twice and that was first what I did, and 100% sure, there is no air leakage.

I dont know why you downvote me for saying you got a nice website but w/e..


Prj knows what hes talking about but again this is IMO he does say things "harshly" to put things that way..




i love drama

Nice info. Actually yes I remember this car.
And this car had about a million mechanical problems, from which many were fixed by us, but not everything.

A small list from things I remember:
* No fuel pressure
* Non functional boost control
* Wires (or fuel lines) going straight over exhaust manifold and would have molten down
* ETC

Did they tell you that 800 EUR included diagnostics, new fuel pump, changing it, new wiring, solenoids, pressure sensors and so on? I guess not. I did not even start to tune the car, only made it run with bigger injectors, set WGDC to 0 and gave it back as-is, because it had more issues. If it made 300hp like that without any tuning then good for them.
They did not want to pay me for work that the car needed (because 35 EUR per hour is so expensive for them), they said they want to fix everything themselves - I charged them dyno fees as well, as I had no idea if they will ever be back and said I'd subtract that if they are back in the future. Which they weren't.
The final log I have of this car shows it didn't make any boost - 90 WGDC, 0.7 bar boost.
I am not in the business to make mechanical repairs to cars for free.

Before you come and tell bullshit stories that you heard somewhere, make sure your information is actually correct. Because right now you are straight up lying. I have the invoice and the logs to prove it. You probably have not even seen this car.
Absolutely nothing wrong with my reputation over here either. The only thing is, that I am not cheap and I don't take jobs that I can't do right.

Btw I have a lot of clients from your country every year, especially for more difficult projects, because no one can do a proper job.
But it is funny to see that you come up with fabricated stories and personal attacks to cover somehow for the fact that you don't know what a PID is never mind how torque and primary/secondary load work in ME7.

I know people who did this car for Norwegian customer and I am one who told to go to you and tune it at your place, because really nobody in Latvia can do it. Also adjusted injectors so it can drive at least and can do test drive to go to Estonia. Your attitude to client is worst what I have heard and not from one man.
And I know 100%, that they didn't do anything after you. Just wired VEMS and tuned here in Latvia. Can show you even dyno sheet. I remember story about boost. With VEMS boost was back in place. :). New turbo, new boost, valve, new piping - all was new. They make these engines every day.

I told you, that I am learning. Where is problem? You are teaching me how to live, what to do, what to tune, but at the same time have bigger problems with your attitude to anyone who knows less than you and attitude to your clients.
PRJ please, don't answer to my posts. I don't need your help. I don't understand anything.

Amazing... Claiming one of the most experienced members here has no clue  :D :D

God help yourself if you think you can do the job better than Prj!

Also, he clearly stated what needs to be done... Even after you started giving him shit, can't say fairer than that...

Where I am saying he has no clue? Clue about what?
I am just saying not to teach me how to live and what to tune. I am not taking money for job what I can't do. That's the difference. I don't know what was problem, why didn't he tune this car, but that's the fact, that with VEMS all went perfect. All his "problems" went away.

As I said - when the car left it did not make boost with CWMDAPP set to 8 and KLDRAPP set to 90%, if you want to be technical.
Client did not want to pay to look into it. So I did not. I charged for the work already done, and off they went.

As for everything being perfect on that car - far from it. The fuel pump was fitted by amateurs, just dropped at the bottom of the tank sucking in sand. That is why the pump fitted to it died before the car could be even tuned.
The wiring was shocking. There were things literally against exhaust manifold. One dyno pull and car would have burned down.
"They make these engines every day" - yeah right.

Fact of the matter is, those guys were super abusive, did NOT want to pay their bills after they brought car that had a huge array of faults and did NOT want to have it finished.
As I already said - I don't work for free, maybe you do, but I have better things to do with my life.

Clearly the tuning was the problem here:

nobody works for free. but there should be result what is worth money. I am just saying, I am not taking money for job what I can't do. You told that you changed solenoids, pressure sensors and car was still underboosting? How? With completely new turbo? new IC was bad or pipes?  ;D Car was at your place more than a week. They were abusive for 800 Euros, needless to say you were asking more than 1000Euros. For what? Diagnostics? Don't tell me what to tune and what to do, if you have bigger problems with your attitude and way how you treat people.
This conversion isn't in right place. I won't be writing anymore. Excuse me PRJ, you are assaulting people for nothing. YOU were starting this shit, not me.

No idea why there was no boost because the customer did not want to pay to find out and preferred to collect car.
Anyone who knows anything about tuning ME7 (I guess not you) can look at above screenshot and see for themselves that it is a problem that has nothing to do with the ECU, which you are referring to.

Sure, it was booked for a couple days for dyno tuning. Instead it needed two days of work to fix issues and my calendar was full with other work, like it is every summer. So I put it on my calendar to next free available date.
My shop fixed the screwed up wiring, changed the fuel pump, fixed the mess and damage in the fuel tank. This is what they were charged for + some dyno time because it is not my fault I get non-functional car.
Do you have reading comprehension problems? Do you think fuel pump is free? Do you think fixing someone's butchered wiring is free? Do you think fixing someone's destroyed fuel tank innards is free?
Do you think that 16 hours of work + fuel pump for 800 EUR is expensive? What is the problem exactly?

If you don't have money, then don't bring me the car to work on, simple. Find "Vasya" in garage who makes shit for 10 EUR/h. Like you :)

Damn, why don't I have popcorn at home...

IMO that is definitly on the expensive side, but then again it depends on the country and quality of work done.

At the dealer here 16 hours of work costs around 1200 EUR to put it in perspective.

then its cheap , there is no way around it.

Can we get back on topic?

Log your car with N75 wire unplugged (or wgdc locked to 0 or 10)

Thanks.

Yeah this, if it doesnt make boost, you either have a massive leak in intakepiping, or WG is stuck open aka doesnt let turbo build boost, or turbo is messed up.

The problem is the opposite, he can't seem to control overboost.

Ah aight.

The logs are inconclusive on this, because WGDC is 40-70% in all of them.
In the first logs the throttle was shut. If the throttle is shut obviously you are going to have huge pre-throttle pressure.

As I said - first step is to kill WGDC in a such case by setting CWMDAPP to 16 and LDRAPP to 0.
If it doesn't overboost after that, then it's a question of linearizing the boost control from scratch.
My posts and others tools derived from my posts exist on this very forum to make this process as simple as possible.

Of course on S3 there is base boost to kill first, as plsolr is not what it is and so on.
Tuning ME7 on any turbo is a very straightforward job, but you need to be very strong on the basics and understand what you are doing.
If you don't know what KFMIOP is or what a PID is, there is little hope.

In this day all the materials are available online. There are countless tools that make life easier and so on.
But you still need to understand engine mechanics, control systems.
This ecu is from 1997. Try tuning a big turbo 4.0TT...

Here are 2 logs with WGDC 0%.

Looks good. N75 and wg is working correctly.

Little bit adjusted WG spring, because it was too stiff. Now it starts to open with 0,2bar pressure and fully opens at 0,8bar. Now will try to adjust N75 duty cycle.

It needs full re-lin, not "adjusting".
Starting to open at 0.2 is bad. It should not crack this early. Cracking pressure should be more like 0.4-0.5, i'd increase pre-load.