NefMoto

Hi There, Just rebuilt my BAM engine with forged rods, bearings etc and gone for top mount GTX 2867 gen 2 Turbo. Previously running a good stage 2 map for k04 that I had tweaked myself and run well for 6 months. So my question is how do a safely set up the map for the larger turbo (not massively bigger but significant).

My immediate thoughts are to change boost request (LDRXN) to ramp up slower and instead of peaking at 3000 rpm, peak around 4000 rpm and hold until redline.

Secondly would be to mirror the waste gate settings in KFLDIMX - moving everything to the right  so that the wastegate starts to open by % as it starts to spool. The pre-load on wastegate is a lot higher though, around 14 lbs instead of 6lbs that the k04 has, so would this mean a larger % decrease? Obviously going to be lots of loggin etc although can't push that much until bedded in engine for first 500 miles.

Other than that thinking fueling and maf will be the same as not changed. Got 2.5 inch FMIC still and running 550cc injectors that will probably want to upgrade in future to hit higher numbers without leaning out.

Many thanks.

 

huh. well thats interesting pipe arrangement and abuse of silicone joiners lol 

With the Watergate being stiffer you will want to correct KFVPD tables to accommodate it. Makes a
World of differance.

Just ask Nixon, he will tell you the same.

Yeah the idea was to cut out some bends but will need fabricating as silicone joiners aren't great, even with tape and t-clamps

I think the oil feed looks even more ridiculous. WTF.

Also T-Bolt clamps do not belong to an intake, ever.

Sorry... how are these comments related or constructive to what I asked about the mapping this turbo? Go criticise someone else build FFS - its work in progress and WTF, I can use T-Clamps wherever I want, you're saying I should use Jubilee clamps then? twat

Oh yeah...and if you knew anything any fitting a bigger turbo, you'd reliase that was the water feed, not oil  ??? And who cares what it looks like? IF it works it works

This picture also did not related to question
But you posted it
Wrong choice  ;D
Btw is it 3 inch charge pipe?

2.5". Its just to get it working until I have more money to fabricate properly. Easy for keyboard warriors to criticize when they haven't had to do all the work themselves, rebuilding the engine, fitting the turbo, actuator, oil and water lines in a completely custom job, considering a year ago I'd only done my first oil change. I think PRJ thought it was an induction pipe...Oh dear :-[

As much as i dont like prj attitude, i would not go there , if You knew who is . :D  And what he has built, tuned ...
Anyway. I would make feedforward boost request. Take logs with 3rd gear until boost peaks, from there I would edit logs( if you dont want go to redline ) This is how i did with GT2860RS and it worked for me.

...well, then why can't he say something helpful about tuning for this turbo. So far only one person has offered something helpful...says a lot about this forum

This is common attitude for people who know their shit. Questions You are asking are many times answered on this forum. I would not take it too harshly.

You need to calibrate the PID.  There's a big thread on it.  Use RAPP set to 8 and force DC to 10%.  See what boost it makes.  Repeat and calibrate.

"Knows his shit", yet mixed up oil and water lines and thought charge pipe was an intake lol. Clearly takes more brain power to be helpful...

;D

It's very difficult to see the oil line and the line you have does look like one.  He'll mean intake to the engine.  T-bolt clamps are shit. 

so what was the point in posting the picture in the first place? proud of your work?...  lol

Hey you cunt, slow down.

T-Bolt clamps do not belong anywhere in the intake end of story.
Anyone who fits a T-Bolt clamp on the intake has no experience or grasp or physics, there are very simple reasons for that, which can be answered by anyone who understands the relationship between pressure and area it is applied to. All a T-bolt clamp does anywhere in the intake (btw a CHARGE pipe is a part of an engine's intake/induction system), is make pipes oval and leak boost.
Oil or water line, I don't care what it is, and how you rotated your bodge. It is ridiculous.

With this attitude on here you won't go very far.
Also, I hope your shit blows up a few times in your face, so you learn the lesson of either doing something properly or not at all.

I gotta agree with tbolts. They do not spread the pressure out evenly , which basically makes a hotpoint on the clamping pressure applied. Worm drives spread it out.
Worm drives are also used in Formula 1. Get rid of the 300 silicon joiners and tbolts, and I'd move the pipes out from the engine bay too for less heatsoak.

 Here  is a good read on worm gear vs tbolt : https://www.amsperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Worm_Gear_Clamp.pdf

I know what you are doing I've done the same thing when first started, but trust me and others its good to do it halfway decent sooner than later.

What is this topic about? I use T-Bolt Clamp in all projects. I didn't see any boost leak problems when i tunning those cars. Too much unnecessary joints / silicones,  horrible to looking at this.

You need made lot of changes in file. I think you must made new maps  Is good to start from calibrate injectors/new maf without boost. Upping TQ limits and slighty retard timing for higher load. Next calibrate ldrpid. Usually if i dont know turbo i make short log runs with variety ped% and log WGDC & Boost to make base ldr maps. After made primary things i work with ignition, afr and move TQ limits for some safety.

I think people should starts seach because is a lot of similar topics.

No sorry mate, you started being a cunt...and that kind of blew up in your face  ;D ;D what part of work in progress do you not understand? All these pipes are getting fabricated but need setting up to check measurements. Think twice next time before being a negative prick for the sake of it

Yes they are far from ideal. Thanks very much for your suggestions. Pipes are getting fabricated next week but needed to knock something up to test measurements. Still drives really well considering, so very pleased so far

Yes I am mate. First time I ever did anything like this and puts loads of hard work into it, as you should know if you done it, getting it all to work in that car isn't easy. Engine sounds really sweet and already lovely to drive. Seriously couldn't be happier...The clue to this topic is the title and that it appears in the tunning section. Had no idea posting a work-in-progress pic would draw so many old negtive armchair cranks out of the woodwork. Glad I did now actually

Thanks for your suggestions mate, really helpful :-) Yeah posting a pic (in absence of any logs, which I will once I can!) was a bit much for too many people. The clue to topic is in the title and the fact that its in the tunning section. Yes T-Clamps although temporary are working just fine. Its an old 20 year old car and just a fun project.

I dont check this but maybe will be helpfully topic (file), could be very similar file : http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=15045.0

Cheers man thanks for this. Thanks for the helpful comments, got some good point. Shame prevailing attitude amoung some cranky members. As for PRJ...think he just needs to get laid or something lol