NefMoto

So ive had this issue with boost cutting off after 5k rpm.
and I finally found the source.
many thanks to whoever made me7logger, and visualme7logger. SO AMAZING.

anyways.
I attached two logs.
you can see my adaptation partial (correct me if i'm wrong, but is this the same as longterm fuel trims?)   =  9.9997E-1  (wtf does 9.9997E-1 mean??)
and you can see the n75 duty cycle  =   at 5.5k rpm it goes to zero.
idle adaptation is zero, ignition retard is ok 0-3deg, knock voltage is a bit high 20-29v.
actual boost is not even close to requested boost.
fuel injector duty cycle hovers close to 100%

This is the second pull. The first pull had normal n75 duty.  And I did a bunch of pulls after this one. the n75 kept shut down the whole time.
it will probably come back when I restart the car.
I'm assuming this is "soft limp mode"

2001 audi tt amu. stage 1 tune.  stock fueling. stock n75.  3" catless. 80mil tip. 
Things replaced while troubleshooting this issue:   (used n75, map, iat, vss) (new MAF, fuel filter, coils, plugs)   
209k miles on the car

I'm installing a new fuel pump tonight. What else could it be. FPR???

Here are the logs

Post logs please

Um they are right there. Second post

I have a feeling im leaking air through my dipstick.  Checking that in the morning.

Those are pictures not logs.

oops.
here is fresh logs from today.
one log is just idle. the other is a 2nd gear pull until 5500rpm.
car has not hit limp mode yet in this state.
I'll post a reply with the limpmode log.

adaptation partial is my biggest smoking gun.  wtf is up with that 9.9997E number?@? does that just mean maximum or something?

Here is the log where you can see it going into soft limp mode.
this was a couple days ago.

Just fyi. the engine idles flawlessly. and makes 260break (according to maf).  I can't tell AFR wot because no wideband though.

Seriously? You can't see anything wrong with that?

lde doesn't mean anything to you?

With wgdc pegged at 95%?

Nothing at all?

Well yes, I agree. It is all messed up. But that's why i posted. I need your help to find out why.
What is lde? Sorry that doesn't mean anything to me.

I didn't write the tune. And I don't think the tune is the source of the issue.
I've had multiple diferent tunes, and this problem shows up either way.
I'm not considering the wg duty levels as a major cause because I had a bad n75, that basically ran the wg fully shut.
And the turbo would spike 21psi then hold 15psi.  Seemed like it was within safe levels.  no excessive knock, or ign retard.
So that tells me that whatever major issue is going on, it is outside of the n75.

ALSO. The adaptation, and lamba is not functioning.
WOT adaptation partial (fra_w) 9.9997E-1 ,  lambda control 1E0, lamda control avg 1E0
IDLE lamda control just sits at 1.  shouldn't it be bouncing around a little?

Doing any fueling testing at WOT is pointless if you can't get boost right.

Stop conflating two things. Work on the most obvious problem, which is lde. That is a major issue. Its causing limp for one thing. Not sure why you think it isn't. It can mean all sorts of things, including broken shit that can cause fueling to go wrong.

In any case, adaptation totally turns off at WOT anyway.

so basically I just happened to get two different tuners that tuned my boost request too high?
is that what you're saying?

Your car is fundamentally broken if it can't make decent boost with 95% WGDC

Has nothing to do with tune.

ok. 
I was just hoping that something in the logs might have some clue as to the broken part.

ps_w would be a good start.

wonky trims can indicate a boost leak.

Ok i'll take a look at that.

I think i got somewhere!
I tried 4 different n75 valves, and this one gives me full boost and no limpmode (yet).

STILL a large deviation from requested to actual, but it's much better now.

Thoughts on this log?

not sure why you're doing this.

why not just disconnect the wg line? It's equivalent to 95% DC

just be careful, dont overboost, hopefully you have a gauge

LOL that requested boost is hilarious.

You're wasting your time.

Find a real tuner or start from scratch.

I know.  It ain't pretty but it was 80$

Also the n75 is a safety measure.  I want to try and finish off the tuning of this file myself.
But as a noob, i need the n75 there if i fuck things up.

Also.  With no n75, does the ecm treat fueling and timing the same as though it atill had control over boost?
I noticed that i get no limp mode, or codes for under/overboost, when i run only the wastegate.
This is even though requested and actual vary by as much as 6psi

NO n75 Whats controlling boost ???

Lol man, curiosity got the better of me and looked at that log.

Boost request is a joke, locked wgdc , lambda leaned out on high rpm. This file is a joke. Do these "tuners" even look at compressor maps, turbo limits etc, like go run with cwmdapp 95% dc and see what it does if you gonna target boost req like that rofl.

With no n75 u are running on wastegate so will have no control

No you need to throw out that file completely.

Sheeit.
Guy is a reputable tuner also.

But, and to be fair to him, he was trying to tune this with feedback from a shotty n75.

What happened was that I had an n75 from a 2002 in my 2001 car. It just so happens that there is some weird bug with those.
The n75 will be plugged in, and not throw any codes, nor will it cause limp mode, but it will basically run as though you had the wastegate hose unplugged.   

On top of that, my turbo is super old (210k miles) so with no n75 control and just wastegate, the boost profile looks somewhat normal.
it spikes 22psi at 4k, then tapes down to 15psi at redline. 

I'm assuming the high duty cycle was an attempt to lift that low 15psi redline.
we were trying to get 20psi peak, and 18psi hold.

That doesn't excuse the rest of the random weirdness in that file.

That's plain bullshit btw.

Jesus i'm reading the reset of your post now more carefully, and just about every sentence is ... not right.

18 hold on k03s? with stock wg and fueling? Really?

it's real! i have two n75 h from different cars, and they both have the same issue.
n75 c runs properly in my car right now.

I fully agree.

it's a k04

386cc injectors 340lph intank pump

ah sorry, confusing this with a different build, apologies.

K04s should have NO problem holding 24psi to redline with 95% DC (not that you'd want to).

aaah. ok.  more to troubleshoot then. (probably lazy wg actuator)

Tougher wastegate spring and some higher octane fuel and it looks not so bad !

218 g/s maf flow !   

Man... Stop targeting 1.5 bar at high rpm, it will simply not do it as you can see , you are literally running 95% wgdc and dropping boost.

Also fix the lambda leanout on high RPM, like.. stop using this file period, 9 degrees of advance with 3 degrees of knock retard at 25C IAT cause 14 AFR at 6400 rpm, you are asking for trouble. The PID is messed up too slightly on spool, not even running 95%wgdc to get the best possible spool (IMO)

If this is a ko4-023 or something along those lines, you should take a look at your setup, whats your downpipe etc.

Could you explain this a little better.
I didn't tune it myself.  But i want to learn and do it myself next.

Read every post on tuning me7 read the FR most will only help so much then ignore.... RESEARCH and more RESEARCH

Ur very right stu

Advice: start from community stage 1, read wiki again and again. It will start to make sense.

Like said you got loads of reading to do.. But 9 degrees of ignition advance at 6400~ is pretty damn low. With increasing engine speeds you need to keep the advance at a reasonable advance because physics. If you are on shit octane and you are very knock limited then you need to dump fuel which not only "cools" the combustion , it might allow you to run higher advance. If you keep the timing low, half your combustion will be happening when the exhaust valve is opening (to exaggarate), which leads to massive egts, its also a surefire to melt a piston.

If you gonna keep running this file , then you should find out why desired lambda goes so lean and fix it before you are down an engine.

Ooooooh.  I always thought lots of retard meant safe zone.    Ok.

I'm working on getting the definition for this. 

I'm tempted to keep running it because the power is really good.  Like 270bhp according to maf

But I'll shut it down till I can sort it

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Just start with stock file and work it out from there.
Never use someone or some "tuners" files because you never know what their intends are and what their level of knownledge is. They can make a good story but that doesn't mean they know about the construction.

If knock retardation occurs, look at boost level, AFR, IAT, and ignition timing. Try to pull when thing get out of control and the first thing mostly is to pull boost (and add fuel). But all depends on the situation.

Ok.  Question. If your afr is perfect. And you have no knock pull retard.  Is there anything else that could be secretly wrong or dangerous?   Or does that mean 100% that you've got it dialed in?

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There are plenty of things you might have gotten wrong. But ME7 has a lot of safeties. So unless you are running boost req past the sensor limit, or you numbed or disabled any of the safeties, you're probably ok.

As Nyet mentions, if the safety functions are not disabled and you have a consisted AFR and no timing retard it means you're on the safe side.
But keep in mind that you have alot of variations everytime again.

And one more time, since it is ignored nearly every time i post this

Do not request boost near or above the sensor limit.

Roger