NefMoto

Hi,

i swapped my Golf MK4 1.8t AGU from M3.8.3 to 06A906032FC ME7.5  from an AUM.
I did not install AUM Camshafts, VVT, N249, SAI (N112 & J299)

I read the s4wiki and came to the conclusion:

-For SAI i need to change MSLUB(0x1A698), MSLBAS (0x183CC) and CWKONABG (no address mentioned?) to 0 and change slv and slp to 11.
-VVT i think i need to make KFZW and KFZW2 to 0?
-N249 delete ist just eskonf?

i used the eskonf detection tool to search for them. But now i dont understand how to change them?
Car is running really bad with activated VVT

May anyone can help me. I included my Flash File

Its better to pay someone in your case

1 post asking for free handouts ? Also, that wouldn't make the car run poorly only mil. You have other problems. Good luck!

You were right. There was already software done on this ECU, which i didnt knew. B

In my opinion it was a simple yes/no question.
But since ur feelings got hurt, please forgive me.

Why would you ever wanna delete VVT, just add the tensioner, and tune it with VVT, its probably the best cost effective power 'adder' if you do it right.

The Problem is, i bought harness from yunkjard. And being an complete "genius" i got the circuit diagrams from VW and stripped everything out cause i thougt "AGU doesnt have this i wont need/want this bullshit".
So there are no wires to connect VVT to.

I got it working to the point, where VVT dtc does not show up by just doing eskonf.
For SAI and N249 i think i need more then i originally mentioned. Tried it, but car revvs laggy and slow when pushing throttle with maxing at 1500rpm.

Well you are probably now running AUM software on an AGU setup if i would be correct. Have you swapped injectors?

Also on a k03s map k03 turbo will run like shit.

So you guys say that VVT is big power upgrade? Any evidence about that.
I have never seen/feel that VVT will make too much difference. If you ask me it is not wort to spend time and money on that upgrade.

I've got no evidence, but a friend of mine swapped his AUQ engine for an AJQ and I mapped out his VVT because of no tensioner. I really can't feel a difference in power, and i don't believe this VVT to be anything like VTEC but to be honest i haven't looked too much into it anyways.

The standard K03 is so small that it almost doesn't matter.
But if you have even a K04 the difference in spool is 200+ RPM. Even more pronounced with a bigger turbo.

The only thing is that this is wasteful for fuel because it's dumping some of that straight through the engine.
All the newer cars with DI use something called "scavenging", which is essentially the same technique, except because the injection is direct, you can do it without dumping fuel out the exhaust.

By bypassing more air through the engine with overlapped cams you create more flow on the turbocharger and this is vital to improving spoolup.

-Turbo is already K03s upgrade
-Injectors are not swapped, i bought 440cc waiting for them to arrive. till then i'll run agu ones with KRKTE adapted

I was also wondering what the best way is to code out vvt? I used this solution http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=12688.0 . It worked for me, no dtc. But not sure if this the way to code out/delete vvt. I have a auq(032mj) ecu

For me it worked with CDNWS = 0
Eskonf changed
KFNWSE was already 18
KFNWKRE was already 18
KFNWKHE whole table to 18
KFNWKHLLE whole table to 18


After now checking FR, I think we'll have to change KFZW2 and OP2 also. They are ignition tables when vvt did its thing.

Thnx for the info! I also changed these maps now; KFNWKRE
KFNWKHE
KFNWKHLLE

Car pulls without isseu till ~5.5k rpm, after that it struggles to get higher. But don't think it is because the vvt is off. I have here a video of it https://youtu.be/pZri2b9G4f0

Ya I feel the same vvt is over engineering bullshit...add more boost!!!!

You can see graphically how much VVT actually does for spool once you have your own dyno.
The difference in drivability and low end is massive.

It is also the reason that almost all performance gasoline engines made in the last 20 years have VVT...

I believe it would have been better if it was just a cam adjuster like the Hondas tho..

Do you realize that you come off really dumb making these comments without having any understanding of the background.
VVT literally is a cam timing adjuster.
Honda additionally has lift adjustment.

Something that isn't nearly as useful on a turbocharged engine, it won't make it help spool any faster.
And at higher RPM you can just add more boost.

Thats fine I can live with it.. Glad to see your so happy to enlighten me.

I will say this you are 100 percent correct on this I can't even make a remark about it .... Now I have done some research and poking around about it....The 2000 atw dosnt have vvt makes 170hp stock and the 2001 awm has vvt makes 170hp stock as that's the only reason I make the statement. I feel they added more things on something that already made 170hp stock and it just seems to make it complex and harder to work on but dyno sheets will show the difference of when and where it does kick in ... But if you ever go to buy one of those vvt tensioners and at the price point I feel like its not worth no 1000 dollars only for that one component in terms of both models make 170hp stock ...These are my observations and personal experience that is all im just speaking of it...

Vvt inactive at horsepower peak region (5000+)
Anyway in stock applications its useless for that price and can be deleted wo any noticeable difference

VVT is not there to make more power, it is to improve low end responsiveness and driveability.
On a turbocharged car it's purely a turbolag reducing device. It will never affect max hp.

Making such statements just shows your complete lack of understanding of how how an ICE works. IDK why you keep going.
Also VVT tensioners don't cost 1k. I don't know wtf you are smoking but non-original whole kit can be had for under $100. That includes the seals and chain.
And those kits work just fine.

Interesting topic.
I noticed, that enabled VVT helps very low rpm driveability, but how to find "sweet point" where vvt should be disabled? Lets say my setup spools 1,5bar @3800rpm, so i tried to disable at 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000 rpm and can't feel any difference. Is it good idea keep vvt enabled in full boost? And about vvt delay, is it normal that in 1/2 gear vvt disables about 1k rpm later, while in 4 gear disables exactly where was set?

Put on dyno. Make full load pull with VVT on and off, see where the intersection point is, set this point.
Then start to limit rlsol in 40 load increments lower and do the same thing.

Job done, takes like 3-4 pulls to tune.

who wants to use the cheap stuff ? This is original vw parts ! but ehh its cool we can agree to disagree! Its nice to have a convo of the benefits of keeping it and the benefits of ditching it !!!

The cheap stuff is made from the same molds and the OEM numbers filed off it.
You gotta be retarded paying this money for it on a car that is worth about the same.
Even more retarded to delete it when there is a working solution.
Is there a pattern developing?

Btw, even the OEM shit is way cheaper than that. But sure, find the most expensive deal out there.

of course paying that kind of money isn't wise like you say cars worth just about as much...there are several thrifty options for this.. I do feel the low end pull difference as I have had both setups.. I feel where you're coming from also. I personally just feel it a pain at times when you have to retime the camshafts on the backside. To account for the vvt tentioner it's a tad bit of a pain...I spent some time digging around for some info on this and for the life of me couldn't produce too much information. maybe if anyone has any they could share that would be cool .. Or even better dyno sheets to see when vvt shifts in that would be rocking info to share here!!I have seen the ecu vvt timing settings I did notice it was for warm up and midrange. Im curious to know exactly how much difference it makes just for science!!!! But im not trying to be a pain in the arse about it !

Do not delete VVT.... simple as that, you did bad research..

Its literally 'free' torque.

1300$ is mental. That entire kit can be had for 100€, with decent brands aswell.