NefMoto

Long story short, the Audi money pit needs to be fed more time and money.

Using BDM100 ..what donor ECU can I use to accomplish cloning the factory ECU onto a donor ECU?

The stock ECU has part number 4L910560C and says MED9.1.1
Also the number 0261S02204

Can I use any MED9.1.1 ECU from any Audi?

What about MED9.1?

Can it be from another Audi 4.2, like say a 2007 A8 4.2L?

Can I go even further and use one from an Audi Q7 3.0?

Does the part number 4L910560C HAVE to match?

Does the number at the bottom "0261S02204" HAVE to match in full? Or a partial match?

I'm about to attempt this with a BDM100 setup, a borrowed laptop, and patience.

I need help guys. Lol.

This car has been a bag of issues from day one, but I keep feeding the beast lol. It's my girlfriend's car.

Any help would be appreciated, as she is using her son's car while I figured this out.

Thanks!

BTW I already opened the stock ECU.

Why do you want to clone?

0261S02204 together with the HW: H16 is the Bosch Number and Hardware revision.
You can try other ecus from S5 or A8

Keeps popping S13 fuse. Already verified the harness from ECU to the driver's side HPFP fuel regulating valve. Keeps killing HPFPs. Just replaced it for the 3rd time. Suspected burnt ground circuit inside ECU. No continuity from pin T60/60(?) to any other pins on ECU. Pass side HPFP ground on pin T60/35(?) has continuity to many other pins on ECU on the bench.

Drivers side HPFP pin on ECU has no continuity the any other pins on ECU.

Pass side HPFP pin on ECU has continuity to many other pins on ECU.

So something isn't right lol

For a long time I just thought it was a short in the harness, but checked the harness many many many times over the 3 yrs we have had it, and never found anything that indicates it's not the ECU.

At my wit's end with this thing lmao.


At $230/pop these HPFPs are getting expensive to replace.

From day one it always has had "circuit low" DTCs for everything on fuse S13. Thinking whatever is supplying the switched ground to those circuits burnt out?

Only other thing I can think of that's bothering me is that *even with the battery removed* I get 0.5-1.5v if I probe the positive and negative jump start terminals under the hood. Which has to be messing with sensor reading right? Even with ECU removed.

BTW thanks for the reply.

But does it have to be a MED9.1.1?

Or MED9.1 works too?

I read some other threads asking the same, but wasn't entirely clear on whether or not it's a yes. ?

Ordered an ECU from a 2007 Audi S8 4.2L FSI.

Ordered BDM100 programmer

Ordered the jig to hold the pins onto the ECU and the adapter to connect the BDM100 to the Bosch ECU.

Also ordered the ECU lid extractor screws.

Wish me luck!

Hey so I got the donor ECU in..will this work?

This is the label on the factory ECU:

And here is the label on the donor ECU:

If it boots you will probably lose automatic starter capability, as the hardware is missing from the board on B7 chassis. This means it won't turn the starter.

You must get the exact same hardware bosch number, not a random control unit. There are significant differences between them. At the very least it has to be from C6 or D3 and not from B7.

You mean remote start? Or flat out won't control the starter at all. Cuz it doesn't have remote start as far as we have known all these years.

Well shit. Guess imma return it

The Bosch hardware # I'd the number at the bottom left. Or ?

The starter is not controlled by ECU on B7, it is old school through ignition switch.
Q7 4L all starter control is done by ECU, the ignition switch is just a button that sends a signal.

Bosch number in bottom left corner, yes.

Well shit lol.

Ok thanks for the replies my man :)

Back it goes lol.

OK so that last ECU from the 07 Audi A8 is on its way back to the seller... Have to wait for the credit back but in the meantime I can put another one on my credit card I guess.

OK so...will this ECU work?

I noticed the ECU that is on the car doesn't have anything where they usually have a "HW: H16" etc...

What does that mean that the original one doesnt?

All the other ECUs I have seen while searching for a replacement will have that HW: H(insert number here) on the right side of the label.

Thanks again guys.

BTW still waiting for my BDM100 to come in..

I did get the rig that you mount the ECU in in order to hold the circuit board with the pogo pins pressed tight onto the pins on the ECU while reading/writing ..

Extractor screws haven't come in yet either...

If the Bosch part number is the same, then it will.

Right on.

Thanks man. I'm anxious to learn about this whole process...

This is for my girlfriend's car as stated, but I'm sure much of this I am learning will make it easier for me to get a handle on how to do this on other vehicles

I have an '08 Chevy Cobalt SS for my daily driver, and it has an E69 PCM...it's tuned already, but I would like to use the knowledge gained from messing with my girlfriend's Audi's ECU and apply it to my own car.

Think I will start a separate thread on that in order to keep this thread on topic.

I don't think I mentioned, but I do have a Ross-tech cable and VCDS..I've had it and been using it since we first got the Q7 in 2019.

Just FYI.

Oh, BTW..once the ECU is cloned onto the donor ECU, will I need to perform any adaptations or any coding I will need to do with VCDS?

I don't think I asked about that yet(?)

OK so I got the donor ECU in..it still has the ECU connectors on it, and just enough wire left on them such that I could make a bench harness if I want to later (bonus!)

I want to test the T35/60 pin to see if it has continuity to anything, to verify whether or not the original ECU should or should not. The fact that the original ECUs T35/60 pin has no continuity to anything has been bothering me..so I will hopefully find out today or tomorrow if I run out of time today.

About to bitch the security bolts so I can take them out with a screwdriver...wish me luck lol

BTW ..I got the BDM frame in, I got the BDM100 in, I was able to solder the BDM Frame Bosch Adapter together (the one with the 10pin header connector), I got a laptop and wiped it out with a fresh install of windows (32 bit, quadrupled the RAm because it was slow AF, and bought a fresh battery because the original was 100% gone not charging), then I install CMD, I have Xprog as well.

So I have much of what I need to do this...the extractor screws never got here from the UK..I will probably just open it without them since my girlfriend's car has been down so long, and her son wants his car he got for his bday back lol..

I need to get this done so I can move forward with replacing the HPFP if it needs it.

If you turn the BDM header 180 degrees, then you will instantly fry the BDM port.
So make sure you don't make that mistake.

The connections both have a little squarish notch so it only goes one way...hopefully the notch is on the right side lol..because I already put it all together yesterday.

Green light doesn't come on on the BDM100...

I can hear the relay inside click when I plug the USB into the laptop, but when I click "ON"..no click and no green light.

When I first got it, the LED would flash very briefly when plugged in. Maybe the update to v1255 I didn't do properly?

Or maybe I need to click the executable with the "1" and then "2"?

I get the "12Vcc power error communication error" when I click "ON"..

I tried with and without the power supply plugged into the BDM.

Shit

The level of support you get is always proportional to the cost of the tool.
If you buy cheap shit from aliexpress you are obviously on your own.

OK so I just did some continuity tests.

The BDM Frame adapter circuit board :

Verified that there is no unwanted continuity between separate pins on board (pogo pin to pogo pin and/or header pin to header pin)

Verified that pin 1 on BDM100 does make connection to pin 1 on BDM pads of ECU.

As for the header cable..

Verified each position on cable has continuity to the corresponding pin on the connector on the opposite end.

Yea I get that. Something something about money lol..

So I got the green LED to flash briefly when I click "ON"

Laptop wasn't communicating with the BDM100 apparently..

So then I verified the proper pins get power and ground when it does flash.

After that it was just a matter of putting the ECU in the BDM Frame and connecting it, and I did a full read, and an individual read of the Ext flash, Mpc, Serial E2Prom, and then ran a checksum.

This is all on the donor ECU.. just in case. Plus if I fried one, better that I fry the donor rather than the original ECU

Good news fellas!

I was able to back up the donor tune, then back up the original ECM's tune, then copy over the origin tune onto the donor ECU.

No more DTCs for short to ground, and the two MAFs appear to be actually working for the first time since we got the car in 2020(?) 2019(?)..

It also seems to have resolved various other issues like the rear trunk not automatically closing and fully latching, trans harsh downshifts, jerky throttle response, erratic idle, popping fuse S13 instantly upon starting(main issue), trans shift indicator not working, hard starts, and probably more stuff I haven't checked yet.

I'm super happy right now

I really appreciate the help from everybody here!

Guess now I can add that to the list of services I can perform

Hey, I read through this post about the issues you had with your Q7 (blowing fuse S13), and how you programmed a replacement ECU.

My friend has the same car with the exact same issue, so I was wondering if you can help me out.

I'd like to confirm that his ECU is the cause. You mentioned that pins T60/60 and T60/35 were behaving differently in regards to pin 35 having continuity to other pins, but pin 60 did not? Was this the case with the new replacement ECU as well? Or could this be used to confirm the fault?

His S13 fuse blows every time he cranks the engine, just as yours did. Unplugging N402 (fuel metering valve 2) fixes that, so the fuse doesn't blow. He replaced N402, which didn't fix the cause.

You also mentioned this damages the HPFP?

If we confirm his ECU is at fault, I will follow your solution and attempt to clone onto a donor ECU.

Thanks!