NefMoto

I have been poking around the forum for about a month now and have learned and played around with a few things. I successfully connected to the ECU a few times with Nefmoto and even read the BIN off of the ecu successfully. The BIN file must be a tuned file as the logs I pulled showed desired and actual Boost of ~14 PSI.

Today, I connected to the ECU like normal and read the ecu info. I then thought about flashing another BIN to my ecu but decided to wait and read more on it before taking the plunge. Curiosity did get the best of me however and I did choose a few flash files, including the one I read from my ECU, and checked to see if the flashes matched. Of course the one I read off of my ECU did and the other two didn't. I then disconnected from the ECU, now looking back I'm not sure if I clicked disconnect in the Nefmoto app or if I pulled the cable out of the OBD port or what. I then went to start the car and now it won't start. The car just cranks and cranks and cranks. I attempted to reconnect to the ECU again with Nefmoto and VCDS with no success. The VCDS test showed that it recognized the interface when tested however.

So, I guess my options now are to get a Galletto and get the car into boot mode. However, I figured I'd come here first. I'm puzzled as to what went wrong since I didn't attempt to write something to the ECU.

What are my options?

-Galletto Cable into boot mode?
-Simply disconnect battery for 10 minutes?

If I need to get the ECU into boot mode, which pin do I ground on a 2003 A6 2.7T 6SPD?

Thanks for any and all help.

boot pin is pin 24 on flash.

which file did you flash btw? 2003 a6 2.7t is going to have the 5p08c3 eeprom. if you flashed say a file from an s4 then for sure its not going to work.

k0mpresed,

That's the problem, I didn't try to flash any file. All I did was check 3 files against the current one on my ECU with nefmoto. Two of which are A6 files and one was an m box file.

My problem may lie with the fact that I didn't disconnect, in Nefmoto, before pulling the cable. Also I connected with vcds, during this same period, and poked around. I looked at the instrument cluster recording stuff but dint change any values.

Ok, I got my ECU out of the car and taken apart. I'm going to build a bench with a PC power supply and bench flash this. I've heard people have had issues with boot mode on these. BTW, I've heard of people using dremels to cut their bolts and heating them up etc... to get them out. I used vice grips and was able to get the screws out quite easily.

I've got a galletto on the way, so wish me luck. I was frustrated and upset but now I'm pretty stoked to start doing this.

(http://www.coupedup.net/Audi/DSCN0215.JPG)

This is the correct boot pin(it's the second pin from the end), right? I'm going to solder a wire to that pin and then leave it there with some heat shrink over the exposed end. Thoughts on this?

theres no reason to solder a wire. you touch the bootpin wire from your harness to the pin for 3-5 seconds when you power the ecu, then remove it.

I'm thinking about how sensitive electronics can be from ESD. Maybe it's my better safe than sorry or apprehensive thought that something could go awry if I accidentally grounded pin 23 and 24 or 24 and 25 at the same time while attempting boot mode.

I guess I'm also just looking ahead to being able to do galletto flash from the car in the future. Keep a small 2" wire soldered to that pin and heatshrink and/or tape the exposed end when not being used. There may not be much advantage to this but it's just a thought.

So, now that I think about it. The Nefmoto software flash match check probably didn't cause my car to stop starting. If I used the VCDS software to access the "Recoding" of the instrument cluster but didn't change any values and clicked cancel. Would this cause the car to not start or would it start and die ~5 seconds later?

I'm still not able to access cluster or ECU while ECU is installed in the car. This is with a dumb cable or Galletto and Nefmoto/VCDS.

Ok, I finished my workbench setup(as seen below). Holy crap is it hard to get all of these alligator clips in that tiny area and have them shielded too. Maybe I don't have small enough alligator clips but, damn. I think I'm going to use an IDE connector like I saw someone use on here. Voltage is at 12.13V measured from source to perimeter of ECU board.

Diagram:

(http://www.coupedup.net/Audi/workbench.PNG)

EDIT2: DO NOT use the 2.2k Ohm resistor as shown. I finally got my first successful boot mode connections/reads without this and using a 10 second grounding of boot pin.

Picture:

(http://www.coupedup.net/Audi/workbenchsetup.jpg)


EDIT: I tried to get the EOBD1260 program to Read the ECU Info but it seems to just hang up. I tried to connect to the ECU in Boot Mode with Nefmoto but got the following from the Log:


This is the error I got once with ArgDub's Eeprom reader. Keep in mind this is a 5P08C3(8kb) Eeprom on a 4Z7907551R ME7.1.1 ECU. The rest of the time I got FAIL, No response from ECU 0x07(not in boot mode):

(http://www.coupedup.net/Audi/eeprom.png)

At least I haven't let any magic black smoke out of it yet.

It appears I may have got it into boot mode once. When I connected the Galletto in my car the LED lit up. However, on the bench it doesn't. If I connect my dumb blue cable the LED lights up, with the same workbench setup(including the female dongle). If I connect the alligator clips directly to the male Galletto cable the LED lights up...Not sure why that is. The light flashes from red to orange like there is activity but I can't seem to get anything to successfully talk to the ECU.

When powering up the ECU, did you touch PIN24 to ground on the flash chip?
If you are not feeling confident, that you are making good contact, you can always solder on two small pieces of wire (one to the pin and one to ground), which you can twist together and then twist apart again.

Usually there is no reason to, but you can do that to be 100% sure.

Just a heads up, I had exactly what your setup is and always had problems. I have since sourced out a doner ecu pigtail from a junked ME7 vehicle and am much happier. No more guessing if this or that has good contact. Just my cents thrown in...

Yea, I figure a lot of the battle of getting an ECU into boot mode is the inconsistency of continuity when just touching a wire to that small pin. I am grounding the boot pin back to one of the ground wires of the power supply. This is with a 1k Ohm(~960 Ohm) resistor.


Yea, I've been questioning how good of contact the teeth of the alligator clips are actually providing. I'm going to try and use the IDE connectors tonight to eliminate, for at least 3 of the pins, continuity issues.

Also, the Galletto instructions are as shown below, right? Do I need to initiate boot mode at step 6 rather than before step 1? Also it refers to ignition on and off. Do I need to simulate ignition on off with a switch for +12V at Pin 3?


EDIT: I figure I'll eventually want a spare ECU. So, I ordered one on ebay. I definitely didn't, but should have, expect to get as "into" this as I have.

Don't over think this.
You don't need an ignition switch.

Also, I don't know if ME7.1.1 is special somehow, but at least for ME7.1 I never use any kind of resistor on pin 24 of the flash chip.
Do not put any resistor there, just short it directly to ground.

So, the steps are:
1. Short pin 24 to ground.
2. Power up the ECU (plug in your power source), this includes everything. Ignition, power, etc.
3. Your ECU is in boot mode.
4. Remove the connection of Pin 24 to ground.
5. Write the ECU in galletto with boot mode.

UPDATE: Today I played around with trying to get the ECU into boot mode with no resistor on the boot pin ground. I tried a multitude of programs(Monoscan, Vag Commander, Nefmoto and ArgDubs Eeprom programmer) to communicate with the ECU. I had issues with my COM ports when tuning my standalone in my race car and messed with the chipset drivers. I wiped the computer clean and am going to try and solely use the Galletto cable and it's drivers for now.

The new ECU should show up by the end of the week. I'm hoping to be able to pull the virgin eeprom file and BIN from that ECU and use that to clone to my existing ECU. I'll need to read up more on that so I don't end up with two ECUs in the same condition. If I put the new ECU in the car but do not attempt to start(ignition on only) will the Immobilizer activate? I'm pretty sure I understand that I can pull information from it and the cluster without issue as long as I don't attempt to start the car.

pm me your an original eeprom read (either old or replacement ecu) and ill send you immo off file.

I'd imagine the new ECU will also have a 5P08C3 Eeprom, so I'm going to have to desolder and re-program it. While I'm at it, I'm going to put an 8-pin socket into both ECUs so I don't have to desolder and resolder when something like this happens. I've definitely had the car down longer than I had hoped but in due time it'll be back. It's definitely been a learning experience.

EDIT: No need to desolder. I bought a Gq-3X programmer and Ponoma 5250 clip.

I got my immobilizer eeprom from my original ECU. I'm about to turn the immobilizer off but I want to know how to keep the immobilizer active. The 12 and 22 bytes are 01. I know they should be 02 for "Immo off" but is "Immo On" 00 and 01 is "Immo Armed"? Attached is my current Eeprom dump from a GQ-3X programmer.

Do I need to clear some stored codes in the eeprom in order to start the car too?

EDIT: Another question. If I have IMMO 3, I need a 7-digit number(SKC) instead of a 4-digit(0XXXX), right? If so, where is this in the immo eeprom bin? Also, in order to clone my original ECU, all I need to do is copy over the VIN and SKC info, correct? What areas should I copy and which areas should be untouched to truly clone?

EDIT2: I found this post which should help a lot. http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=899.0
I'm trying to leave a big crumb trail in this thread so it'll be an educational thread for most.

Thanks,
Sean

I tried an immo defeat on the original ECU and zeroing out all of the 170-1B0 to hopefully remove the Programming Not Finished DTC but that didn't work. I immo defeated my second ECU but when I turned the ignition on the car did the normal door chime but then three distinctly louder beeps and then continued the door open chime. I'll post my eeprom BINs here in a while.

I can't get Nefmoto to recognize my blue cable even though VCDS connects. I'm trying to do a full read to clear this code. I'll post up my BINs of my Eeproms and hopefully someone can chime in on what I need to do to get this new ECU to work with my car in place of the original.

Couldn't attach the BINs to the previous post when editing, or so I think.

The ECU1-Immoarmed.bin is my as is dump for my original ECU. It's named that way because I thought the BIN file would just have the 33 death code.

So, now I'm on to figuring out why Nefmoto won't connect to my ECU but VCDS will.

Have you tried Galletto over OBD ?

No, does Galletto work outside of boot mode? I'll install the cable later today and see what happens. I'll also uninstall and reinstall Nefmoto to see if that might be an issue.

Yea, it does...

Thanks, prj.

I also found this post here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=1508.msg14326#msg14326

I'll try installing the latest CDM driver. Not sure why VCDS would connect and Nefmoto wouldn't though. However, it's probably my weak understanding of the communication protocols...but I'm getting there.

I got the car up and running. The issue with my Nefmoto connectivity was indeed the outdated FTDI driver. I had a 1.0.*.* driver from 2004 and I ended up using an up to date driver. I connected, read the flash and turned off the ignition to finish the programming session and all was well.

Just a note for those using my thread to go through the same issue(s) I had. I ran into another problem when trying to update the driver. I got a BSOD every time I tried to install the new driver. If you run into this issue you need to go into C:\System32\ and run FTDIUNIN.exe in Windows 2000 compatibility mode and THEN install the new driver to avoid the BSOD.

Thanks for all of your guys' help and this forum as a resource.

Glad you worked it out in the end :)

To keep this thread complete. Here is a picture of the Immo. Eeprom to clarify the pinout. I hooked it up to the programmer to read a multitude of different ways and it didn't hurt/affect the Eeprom. But, for the sake of it...

(http://www.coupedup.net/Audi/immoeeprom.jpg)

If you have the data sheet for the uC, then it's pretty easy, as it's easy to see which pins are ground on the board.