NefMoto

I am trying to get more out of my car, and I have multiple questions but lets start with one..

During a pull my IAT's go from 30-40 degrees C all the way to 70 degrees C(on a not correctly tuned map, I have started from scratch again). On the wiki I read KFZWWLNM controlls how much timing is being pulled at certain IAT temps(please correct me if I read it wrong).

The current setup is a Audi TT 180 HP FWD, so I only have one tiny SMIC. Only intake mods on it is a
"open" air filter and a sillicone TIP. I will buy a upgraded SMIC for this car when i have the funds.

So.. is it safe if I zero out 9,75 - 69,75C @ 2000-6500RPM in KFZWWLNM?

impossible to tell without logs, which you did not supply.

In general, no, unless you are 100% certain it is pulling timing when it shouldn't. You always want to pre-emptively pull timing before KR gets to it if possible.

I am switching to logging with ME7Logger, the KKL cable is still in postage. So clear logs I dont have. Only what VCDS offers. If I read correctly, KFZWWLNM has to inputs (`nmot` and `tans`). Are these the only variables I need to log during a pull?

Absolutely not. You should log everything. How else will you know if KR is activating or not?

The fact that you have done no logging (yet) really means you should not need to touch that map.

No reason to touch this map above 50c
Fix your hw first

Just got the log done.. I attached a trimmed version from the whole log, its just the pull..

Looking at the log and reading S4 + other threads, I have question marks that might need fixing, I am not 100% sure tho, thats why I am asking here.

My TABGBTS stock was set to 400 C, I changed it to 700 C before all this but now I am not sure I should have done this. I got a narrow band lambda sensor, and its going to make sure I always see a AFR at 14.7. Looking at the logs, when I surpass 700 C, I can see it is trying to follow the lowest value of lamfa_w, lamfawkr or lambts.

I also notice the IAT getting very hot as mentioned before. This might be caused by the single SMIC on the TT,, I ordered a upgraded one.

I think thats the last map you want to change. You use that to retrieve timing when its colder.... that is to say

* you are seeing lots of KR, so you pull back timing request (or reduce boost req or add fuel)
* You get your KR to near zero under all conditions (hot and cold)
* You THINK you can run more timing when IATs are lower, or need to pull more timing only when IATs are higher (not enough IAT compensation)
* You THINK you have to run less timing when IATs are lower, or pull less timing when IATs are higher (too much IAT compensation)


Those last two steps are optimizations you really shouldn't do until the rest of your tune is nailed.

I have set the TABGBTS back to stock, also lowered the LDRXN from 190 at peak to 170 at peak. Trying to get actual and desired boost pressure near eachother. The upgrades SMIC comes tomorrow so after install I will log everything again. Would going back to BKUR6ET-10 spark plugs help? I have BKR7E's in them now.

You also mention to get KR close to zero on all cyl. Meaning its okay if there is a little bit of KR?

Just got done with the install, and went for a testdrive(with the same tune as before, I wanted a clear before and after). Log file will be attached. Unfortunatly my O2 sensor went bye bye at the end of the testdrive, so it will take a couple days before I can log again.