NefMoto

Hello everyone,
Ill start with saying: I have read through everything on the forum and even outside of it regarding this topic. I have not added any LC/NLS scripts blindly hoping they would work.
Car is an Audi A4 B6 1.8T ME7.5 8E0906018B. Ever since I bought it, it had the P0601 35-00 Internal Control Module: Memory Check Sum Error. I flashed it numerous times, disabling O2 sensor, SAI etc. DTCs, as well as increasing boost slightly and the car ran fine for over 20k kms. The P0601 was always there.
Last week I swtiched to bigger injectors and edited KRKTE and KVB, started the car, it idled for about 2/3mins and then it just turned off and doesnt want to start up again.
I can connect to the ECU with VCDS to read/clear dtcs, nefmoto can read the ECU info and I can read/write flash.
I put the original injectors and flashed the old bin, I replaced the crank and camshaft sensor, read the flash and wrote it back, left the ignition on for an hour (always connected to a battery charger). My file is checksumed with ME7sum.
The only thing that I believe could be causing this no start condition is the P0601 DTC. I have read that people delete it from the EEPROM, but I've also read that someone deleted it from flash?? I have tried reading my EEPROM with argdubs 95040 tool, vag eeprom programmer but I havent had any luck. Ill try bootmode tomorrow.
What do you guys think? (im attaching the bin I read from the car today)

did you try stock file? I know it may not run right if fueling is off enough..

I put the stock file with only SAI, rear O2 etc. off, but I'll try to find the unmodified stock file and flash it.

Today I managed to read my EEPROM with the older version of argdubs 95040 tool, no bootmode was necessary so I didnt try it. Reading its status in eepromtool prints the following:

Opening the file in a HexEditor shows the 1C and 2C bytes as 00 not 33, so where does this DTC come from? The flash?
I based this information on these threads:
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2973.15
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=1433.0

I attach my EEPROM dump for anyone interested or willing to check it. I flashed the original file back and it didnt help, also spark is present and the fuel injectors also pump fuel while cranking, but the car doesnt start :c. Can you guys point me to some more threads that might help me with this or tell me what I should do? I will keep posting as I work through this and of course any feedback is appreciated.

Flash 518AL
Eeprom and stock file

What do you mean by that? Should I find a EEPROM dump from a 518AL ecu and flash that in my car? I'll add that my memory layout is 800BT not BB in case that changes something.

sorry your is 5.12 boot room version AL will not work

try this eeprom
immo off it before writing

The bin you posted differs quite a lot from mine, I hope thats okay? I would prefer not just blindly flashing eeprom bins so could you explain what this would do please?

I immo off'd and changed the VIN to mine on your file, should I do anything more before attempting to flash? I'll attach the edited 95040 you sent. Should I also edit the contents of my Cluster eeprom for immo off?

output from eepromtool of your file:
after edits:

No need to do anything else, write it and try

edit: I have OEM file and eeprom for your ECU

Imoooff it and copy your VIN to this eeprom

So I flashed the eeprom you sent me after doing immo off + changing my VIN (file attached).

The car still doesnt start. I flashed my old flash bin that the car used to run on. When I compare the flash you sent with my xdfs the values and tables are all wrong so I believe the file is not right for my car?

The Calibration Equipment Software Number used to start with an 8 and there was a 1 somewhere in the middle, but after flashing your EEPROM it goes to all 0's and then after cranking it, it reverts back to the old value. I've read that having an 8 in the beginning is a bad thing, so how do I fix that?

The first time I flashed the file the P0601 was still present, but now after flashing it a second time and cranking the car, reading my flash with nefmoto, the P0601 is gone, but the car still doesn't start and when iginition is on the CEL is present although there are no DTCS???. What else is there to try/do? Should I flash your bin even though the offsets are not correct and all that?

Thank you very much for you help so far. I really do appreciate it.

Flash this bin and this eeprom with immo off

Today I flashed the bin then the eeprom - no start
then I flashed the bin again - no start
then I flashed the eeprom - no start
then I read the flash with nefmoto - no start
I noticed that N112 and N249 DTC's appeared so I guess that means the ECU is (partly) doing its job at least lol

Also whenever I read/write flash the Calibration Equiment Software Number changes from 0x00000000 to 0x80010000 and when I write EEPROM changes to 0x00000000. Good news is P0601 is no longer appearing. I always turn the ignition off for 10s and back on whenever reading/writing anything.

If I were to try to flash with Galetto1260 while having the 800BT memory layout should I just choose 800BB? The are only two options in the ECU bootmode section: 400BB and 800BB. I am thinking of using galetto because nefmoto encounters an error at 94% and I have to erase the whole flash and start over and it takes around 25mins. EDIT: I flashed with Galetto and Calibration Equiment Software Number changed to 0x80030000.

Is there anything else for me to try? Ill go looking for some more potential mechanical problems, even though I feel like I did everything in that regard already. EDIT2: I checked spark, fuel, I even sprayed some directly on the throttle plate and the car felt like it really wanted to start, but obviously didn't.

spare ecu at this point.

Damn I was really hoping not to hear that. I think the 8E0 909 518 AL will be an okay replacement in my case. Hopefully it comes from a manual. I will try some more things with my ECU since it doesnt seem like its dead and then Ill buy a spare one. Really hoping its not a mechanical problem that coincidentally occurred when I flashed a new map :D

there are zillion different p/ns which cross flash with that ecu, you don't have to get an identical one

You can use any ECU after 2001 for 1.8T.

But this is first time I hear that ECU is dead after flashing

Why are you choosing 29F800BT?
All these are 29F800BB.

Did you solder a wrong flash chip on there? If so, no wonder you're having no end of issues.

What do you mean? When I open my ECU the chip has AM29F800BT written on it. I haven't soldered anything to the ECU PCB. Its been that way since I bought it.

Try to write the file and then the virgin 95040 eeprom I attached.
Then read the flash memory.
If there is any difference compared to stock you need to replace 29F800.

HexTool says that both flash files(The one you sent and the one I read after flashing) are identical, I noticed your EEPROM file has invalid checksums and now I get P1612 Status: 0x64 Electronic Control Module Incorrect Coding.

Of course you have to encode it since it's a virgin eeprom.

Are you sure about KRKTE? I would check the ignition plugs. 

KRKTE values are the same: 0.10523 @ 0x1D094. I have checked the coils three times already I cranked the car all all of them had spark.

Encoding the EEPROM:
So I'am using the eepromtool and I added my VIN, but thats all I can do, when I try to add Cluster code or Immo ID I get errors. So now the file looks like this:

It also says Immo2 but I assume thats not important since Immo is off, then I guess so is clustercode and immoid.
Is it okay to write now? Should I first write flash then write eeprom and then read flash again?

This was many years ago, but as far as I can remember, I wrote the eeprom and everything was just fine. I mean, the eeprom was automatically filled with the correct numbers (VIN, SW etc). Are you sure that the ignition plugs are not flooded?

They are not flooded, I checked again and even left them on the table for some time for any gasoline to evaporate from them and from the cylinders. I flashed your eeprom but checksummed this time, then read with nefmoto and it keeps giving me P1612 Electronic Control Module Incorrect Coding. edit: It doesnt get filled with correct numers:

Well it's not the right chip in there. And from the low res picture, it's not factory solder either.
The ECU is supposed to have a 29F800BB chip. And it did, until someone fucked with it and soldered the wrong thing in.

That is very interesting and explains having the P0601 and the car running. The previous owner said that the car (150hp from factory) had a 170hp map but it was so shitty that he had a tuner "turn it back to stock". I guess that somewhere along the way someone soldered the wrong chip. The new 518AL ECU is going to arrive tomorrow, so I'm gonna report back when I install it and hopefully the car will start :D Having some internal battles about whether I should keep the immo or delete it. THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP

I'm back with more problems :D
So I plugged the new ECU to the car.. When connecting to VCDS it says in the Extra: Geraet 00200 (No VIN or anything). So I went into bootmode and did immo off on the ECU eeprom and wrote my VIN. In VCDS I changed the Soft Coding to the value I had in my old ECU. The immobilizer light on my dash keeps flickering and I get the cluster DTC
01177 - Engine Control Unit
65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent
Does that mean I have to Immo off the cluster eeprom too? or is the used ECU I bought just bad. Of course the car still doesnt start in case anyone had any doubts.

You cant immo off the cluster....

Before you do anything else find a working ecu thats been tested get both SKC login codes from that ecu and your cluster and pair them together the correct way forget the immo off and code them together properly using VCDS

Don't write your VIN, yust immo off it.
Car must start if there is only engine in car

So I wrote the original eeprom bin back (from when I got the ecu), can't pair together with VCDS, when entering old/cluster PIN in adaptation 50 it says System not OK. I login succesfully and Im sure the SKC is correct, because when entering a wrong one nothing happens. It would be really hard to find a working ECU that I can put in my car, none of my friends have audis/vags. The only way for me to get a working ecu is to buy one. And well, I did buy one that the seller said was working.


Just doing the immo off on the eeprom still gives me immo DTC's on the cluster. Am I missing something or what? Read the stock eeprom > immo off > write it back and thats the whole process.

Man all this because I wanted bigger injectors. Does anyone have any more ideas? Its the 518AL, I can't flash anything or read the flash because it doesnt let me with the immo not working. The new ecu is in a plastic box instead of a metal one. Maybe I should try a different eeprom dump on it or something? The one BlackT sent earlier?

Cluster will always throw a fit because the ECU is not paired to it.
If you just immo off the eeprom and leave everything else like it was, then car should start.

Do exactly that instead of changing a million things at once.

Once the car starts and that is verified with an immo-d off bin, then re-enabling and pairing immo is the next thing, but you might have to change sw version.

It doesnt start with just immo off. :( If you say it should then Ill go back to checking mechanical problems. Maybe my new walbro 255 fuel pump somehow died (I drive on LPG). Wouldnt be surprised with my luck

So back to basics then.
Does it have fuel and spark or not...

What you mean ECU is in plastic box?

I never have any DTC on B6 in cluster  no mather what ECU I put

I am not home right now, but I found theese images on the internet to show examples. The Metal one has some sort of glue to keep a seal so that water doesn't get in and has this plastic black plug. The plastic one has no sealant and plug.

As long as I know Audi A4 B6 1.8T has never come with sealed ECU(first pic)

3.0 with M7.1.1 have sealed ECU, but 1.8T not

Please take a pics of your ECUs not from internet

Here you go: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MEn1vJciWLior6sT2ko4NBWkoc4h5GBD?usp=sharing
Sorry for using a link I cant seem to attach neither the images nor a .zip to the post.

Managed to get rid of the immo dtc by connecting my old ecu and flashing the stock eeprom, then when connected the new ecu with immo off, there was no dtc. Trying to read flash with nefmoto gives me


Fuel, spark, timing, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, relays are all good, even tried to check if somehow my LPG ecu was messing with startup but no dtc's there. I don't think there is anything else to try or do. Any suggestions are welcome of course, but I don't know what hasn't been tried yet. I kinda need the car and im not gonna have time to fix it starting monday, so I'm thinking of finding some tuner or mechanic or idk what to try and fix it.

Compression test.

Compression test has been done around 10kkms ago and showed 13 on all cylinders (12.9-13.1 I don't remember exactly). It was this along with testing the oil pressure(also very good results) that lead me to believe this engine (and car) was worth investing time and money in.

IT STARTED UP
Upon realizing that I would have to travel using public transportation I found the issue pretty fast. Just look at the picture attached. The hose attached to the fuel pump broke even though it was brand new and part of the walbro 255kit :D It was all terrible timing as it happened right after changing KRKTE. THANK YOU EVERYONE VERY VERY MUCH Sorry you all had to put up with this!

Btw someone sandblasted that ECU case, it's not supposed to be like that.
Also your new ECU is 40mhz, old one was 32mhz.

But yeah if it didn't start with immo off file it was clear that there's problems with the car from the start.

I guess in that case I should try to get the new ECU working. Faster == Better  ;D Thank you for that!

Literally no point because it's not exactly for your engine.

Then I'll stick with what I got :D

As long as I know there is nothing bad to shift to 40mhz ECU

At least he have full map pack and damos for AL ecu

After reading hundreds of posts from 2003, I finally found this thread. Gonna check the fuel pump when I get home.

After reading hundreds of posts from 2003, I finally found this thread. Gonna check the fuel pump when I get home.
Edit: Car started with new ECU or the old one with P0601 code? I inspected my car and didn't find any mechanical problem. I flashed the ECU with the stock file but the code still present.

I posted the solution to disable and clear this code forever here in 2018:
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10926.30 (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10926.30)

Apply the patch, checksum and flash the ECU.
The moment you turn the key on it will delete the code and prevent it from ever being set.