NefMoto

So I can't seem to get my WOT and high rpm tune to behave..  I feel like I have little boost in the high rpm (above 4000), I logged tonight the best I could with the annoying san diego traffic even at 9:00 at night..  I don't think I was able to satisfy the filters needs but I tried doing some 1st, 2nd, 3rd pulls.  I'm new at the whole ecu-x thing so I'm not having a good time putting the graphs together.. Map and logs attached.

Those logs are totally worthless.

Get a 3rd gear pull wot from 2500rpm to redline

Honestly the car isn't making much boost up top so the thing takes forever to run out 3rd gear..  I will give it a try again today, but the traffic around here blows for it.

Then forget about running it out.

How about staying WOT in third starting at 2500 rpm for longer than 1 second :P

And please try to only have the logger running when you are actually doing something worth logging...

In any case, your WGDC is at 10%, which means you are in limp mode.

Any codes?

Okay did some more runs, with hold WOT in 3rd from 2500 to close to redline twice.  I will go pull the codes now but no check engine light..

I'm getting error code P1557... deviation code obviously because my turbos aren't making over 10 psi! lol  what the hell is going on.

You are requesting too much boost too soon.

Why are you requesting max boost below 2700 rpm?

Your WGDC is stuck at 10% because it threw a code when your actual can't meet requested ON BOOST RAMP.

Clear the code, and do one pull in 3rd.

I'm using the rs4 ldrxn as a baseline so I figured my turbos should be able to make close to what the regular bosch k04s are making?  So should I adjust the boost curve to build more gradually and then log again?

Hmm. I can't tell if your LDRXN is ok.

I'd need to see a log of your car with the DTC cleared to see why it is being set.

If you LDRXN is RS4, and you aren't requesting more than 170 load at 2700rpm, you might be ok.

Yeah well the map i'm using it up top, but any how I adjusted the ldrxn to be less aggressive and now i'll go run again.  My wastegates crack at 10 psi, is there a possibility that it's the n75 valve control causing the issues?

Impossible to know w/o seeing a log if what is happening when your ECU throws the code...

Okay ill be sure to clear make sure there are no codes before next full wot pull in 3rd. I will post back in a bit, thanks for your help so far much appreciated.

Also both times i've logged, about 10 minutes into the session the car jerks like complete loss of everything and ecm light flashes on rpm gauge, this is only when logging, when this happens the logger throws error code 8... again only happens when im logging and it happened both times and cruising speeds on highway.

Okay I cleared the codes twice and ran two logs with two 3rd gear wot runs.  Went into limp mode both times I believe.  Logs attached as well as revised map.

you're triggering the DTC long before I see it in a 3rd gear pull... so all 3rd gear pulls have 10% dc

STAY OUT OF BOOST until you can start your pull...

I dont know why you are requesting so much load/boost at such low accel ped positions.

That last run, I literally reset on the on ramp, so what the hell is trigerring it so quickly?  I'm just light throttle 1st, 2nd, and then i floor third...  The boost ramp is almost as conservative as a stock s4!

Should I get it smoked tested for boost leaks?  My ldrxn boost curve is similar to a stock s4 and I'm still getting massive deviation.  I can't imagine the tune is causing this.

Your LDRQ0S is set to 4.0 versus 2.0 on a stock m-box.  Did you do this on purpose or are you unaware of this?

109.99
120.00
132.75
146.30
152.37
163.81
175.01
174.00
172.50
172.01
171.52
170.02
165.00
159.99
156.52
152.02


Set your LDRXNZK and LDRXN to what I've posted here btw for referrence.

Why is your TABGBTS set to 400?  Raise that to at least 650.

hang on, leave the rest ALONE until you work out the source of the DTC.. tabgts has nothing to do with this :)

NEVER EVER try to fix multiple things at once, especially if you don't know the source of the problem.

I can't log like you want with this map man, it throw negative deviation immedietly.  I did a compare to the m-box and I worked out any abnormalties as well as changing the settings you recommended.  I will reflash, clear codes and log again.  Thanks for the help so far.

can you put KFMIRL and LDRXN back to stock, and log?

Okay I put alot of things to stock and did another logging, but still going into to limp deviation.  Map and log is attached, I made sure to clear right before the run, so I know it had to of triggered on the 3rd gear pull.

My boost build is super slow, I mean with my wastegates at 10 psi the computer has no control over them anyways and look how slow they are building... Is there a boost leak or something going on here?

I assume you already did a pressure check?

Your requested load/boost is RIDICULOUS

franken turbos simply will not make full boost at 2500 rpm.

Why are you requesting so much boost so low?

Please reread this carefully :(

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Positive_deviation

Okay, so I changed my LDRXN to
76.1032
85.5253
94.2442
107.3929
112.9243   
123.2136   
131.1122
149.7454   
170.7693   
174.8475   
174.6365   
174.8240   
167.5583
163.2925   
159.3784
150.8470

Still getting positive deviation!!! How low do I need to go?  And how on earth are people like berttos and nef requesting ungodly amounts of boost down low on their k04s when I can't even make stock numbers?

did you pressure test?

are you sure the turbos are ok?

are you sure there aren't any wastegate issues (stuck open, N75 etc)

are your DVs ok?

Something definitely wrong with your spool

I haven't pressure tested, I was going to drive up and have my mechanic do what he calls a "smoke" test.  My turbos have 5,000 miles on them and have felt this way since I got them, I just never have gotten around to logging...

are you on the stock injectors and airbox?  if so i'd reflash the bone stock ecu and take nyet's advice.  change one thing at a time.
if the car has the virgin m-box on there and you are throwing these codes, the evidence will be in your logs.  we need to be scientific about diagnosing your car's issue.

Read above I'm running even less aggressive now then a stock m-box and still getting deviation.  I don't know how much more I can turn the ldrxn down without it being a complete dog to drive down low.

To be clear: don't worry about how much of a dog your car is right now.

right now you should be diagnosing the spool issue....

putting the ecu closer to stock gets you closer to that goal.

Well I have the ldrxn values 40 less then stock and im still deviating so how should I be diagnosing this better?

I'm throwing a 1557 code even with these values for ldrxn:  Something is seriously messed up

82.62   83.32   85.27   88.08   90.73   96.14   103.27   117.94   135.26   155.23   169.78   169.81   169.46   166.67   161.46   151.95

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2159.msg20260#msg20260

I'm getting it smoke tested tomorrow.. never ending trying to get this car to run right.

shrug. all part of the game. remember though, never try to fix hardware problems in the tune. If your tune isn't working MAKE SURE the car is physically 100%; don't even bother tuning until you get those issues ironed out right.

I think my car is 100% i've done alot of work in the last 6 months.. after doing some reading i'm thinking defective N75 valve, I'm finding it hard to believe my car has a boost leak.

Are you sure the wastegates are actually fully closed? I had something similar last year on a car, turned out the wastegate wasn't fully shut and slightly opened even when engine off as a result it never boosted properly. If I asked for 18psi it gave 14psi if I asked for 14 it gave 10 etc. even with n75 do @ 95% it never meet requested, I thought boost leak but actually the wastegate had come loose slightly causing the flap to be open. May have nothing to do with yours but worth a look.

Finding it hard to believe that you have a boost leak??? Boost leaks account for roughly 9 out of 10 problems on turbocharged cars.
I boost leak test EVERY SINGLE car before I tune them, and so far only about 2 out of 50 on average have been leak free. And that's when the owners had the pressure test done themselves.

If your turbos don't spool and you get P1557, then 99.9% you have a boost leak.

Agreed 100%

The amount of money you spent has nothing to do with the odds of a boost leak. It is a reality of all FI designs.

My turbos do spool, just not past 10 psi (cracking pressure).  Anyways, I'm going to check over everything for boost leaks, and go from there, if I can't find them visually I'll have to go get a smoke test done.

I don't know of anybody who has found a boost leak visually, except for maybe a torn throttle body boot.

PRESSURE TEST already. If you are self tuning your car, you absolutely should have the equipment and ability to do this yourself REGARDLESS.

Also, don't forget to make sure your wastegates seal up properly

Torn throttle body boot!  Glad I got off the computer and tore into her :)  Way stoked on easy fix :)))))))))))))

Well that was easy..

I recommend you pressure test anyway btw :)

Yeah it's hard when you live in an apartment and don't have electrical to run a compressor on the street.  But I guess you only need for a pounds of pressure so you could just fill the tank up and move it outside.

I doubt they let it out of the shop w/o doing a pressure test and checking the tbb.

Yeah I think it blew pretty soon after getting the job done because of the bigger turbos.  I'm just stoked to get it back on track now! running great.  Will still most likely swing by wicked at some point though to get everything checked over again, plus I love seeing mike and all the sick cars they are working on over there all the time.

Thanks for the help everyone so far, I'll post logs later now that the car is making boost again!

Excellent news.

Looking forwards to seeing your results!

Found another problem, my bailey diverter valves with about 30k on them were both stuck half open... Seems to be a common problem with these valves failing according to this thread, http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?136559-Could-My-Bailey-Diverter-Valve-Be-Screw-up-since-K04ing with the 1.8 guys.. Anyways, got some fresh 710N's in there now and she is hold boost very nicely, so I i'll be posting logs soon.

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Okay, so I finally got around to logging the car after installing new diverter valves and fixing the boost leak from the throttle body boot.  Logs are attached, I'm spiking to 21 psi at 3500 rpm for some reason when I'm only requesting 15.5... seems like boost does not want to follow requested very well.. Any ideas?

Bring down your I limit a TON. See also my chinese turbo 3- tune

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2221.0title=

Thanks nyet, I was comparing the files.. Why did you 0 our DFLOUS I thought it was important to maintain open loop... Seems difficult to control these ponies with the boost having to be limited so low due to my injectors...

I always run closed loop for low boost.

Any consequences to doing this? 

So i redid the tune with alot of the modifications in your file, and the car runs much better.  I will log it again.  However I get a chirping sound only taking off in first that I've had since I bought the car, it only happens when it's heated up all the way and only when you take off in first... I'm thinking exhaust hanger or something but it's weird it only does it when its full hot.. Could that be pinging at such a low rpm like that?

I'm not sure I understand your question. There is no reason to run open loop if you intend to run below the MAP limit unless you are an incompetent "pro" tuner.

Maybe throw out bearing? No clue.

Did you ever get this figured out?

If you mean that 'chirping sound' then it's probably compressor surge
Log mlhfm to confirm