NefMoto

Hey, im learning to tune maps and i need help!

My audi a6 c5 2.4 v6 has 2 timing maps, second one has little bit more advance at 60 and 68 load.

Why there is 2 timing maps? If i want put more advance do i need change parametres in both maps?

Also want to ask is there any point to put more advance under 60 load (30, 38, 45, 53, 60 load) like 1500rpm - 4000rpm? Im trying to get little bit more response and better fuel economy.

Is there anything else what to change, i did change lambda map (picture) and then timing map/maps?

Any help?

If there are only two, then one is for inlet cam fully retarded and other fully advanced.  To make sure you need to change both.

You can't go leaner than lambda 1, so your changes do nothing.
Learn how to make screenshots instead of taking photos with your phone.
Adding timing randomly is also a waste of time, you need to log... and on part load you need a dyno to find MBT.

TBH doing anything on that engine is a waste of time. Sell the car and buy a 1.8T if you want to tune anything.

Upload the original file and Ill have a look, Ive done 2.7t turbo setups on 2.8l 30v with a compression dropping head gasket and quite a few supercharger setups so I have a bit of time invested in those software versions. Also in stock form as Prj said, its a waste of tuning a stock engine, and its not worth renting dyno time to gain 8 horsepower peak power. At least that is what I have seen with stock exhaust manifolds gutted down pipes and stock exhaust on (91 usa) 95 euro octane. 

Sorry for pics from phone, i have done logs and tried adding advance, but seems cant add much.

Is that sure if i put lambda over 1 it does not do anything? There is only lambda map, no afr map.

Well im not looking for extra power, only better fuel economy if that is possible. I use 98 euro octane in my car.

Prj: in next year im thinking change to vw/audi 1.8t :) and just want learn these things so its easier in next car, of coz its alot different in turbo cars.

idk why I waste my time trying to help.

Thanks! Takes time to translate :) what do you mean v1 in ols?

This is what I mean

Aaa ok, found it :) is that v1 safe to try? Seems its alot different than others what couple guys  have done for me

Well, playing with just fueling and timing will not do anything on this platform, besides waste time. If you want the car to "feel faster" react quicker to input other maps will need to modified for the desired result  The reason the file I modified looks different then others is because i didn't just make mindless changes using some cracked version of ecm titanium like I would be willing to wager others did. Again, if you don't want to use the file, don't.   

 ::)

Well im going to try tomorrow :)

I did load your software and just want to ask about lambda voltages, they are at idle 0.055v and normal city driving both are about 0.055V-0.065V, all time like under 2000rpm what i did check from logs. (Normal rpm at city driving is about 1250rpm)

At part throttle accelerating it did feel like motor is not getting enought fuel, dont know is it because automatic (high gear).. also here is winter and outside temp was -15c

What map keeps voltage that low? Would want to try little bit more richer

Could you help? Ive tried couple days and its more lazy at part throttle? Need to put pedal like over half way to get responsive, and how i can get it more richer? Ive tried change couple parametres but it did go bad...

Could someone help to get my 2.4 v6 audi a6, is it possible to make it little bit leaner?

Im just thinking there  is TABGBTS value: -46,29 c??

Do i need Set KFFDLBTS all to 0, KFLBTS all 1 but last ones? What about LAMFA and USR?

Is it possible to change o2 sensor to any voltage? Nameless did do changes for and USR is set to 0.056, i tried to change that like 0.080 and my car didnt start very good and at idle it almost shut down so i think it went too lean?

Use the compare option and see what was changed. Or if you do not have the capacity, start with a stock file. I mean you ask for help, but you are not helping yourself. The questions you ask have been answered several times. Put kflbts and lambda back to stock those are the only fueling changes made that would effect anything, again if you used the compare feature you would have answered your own questions. Furthermore, you ask for help how much help do you need?? Besides making a map pack from scratch for you, I included some calibrations I have used in the past for fuel economy (as you requested). Rule number 1 never flash anything until you understand why the individual made the changes they did. You need to start helping yourself more, making random changes is a waste of time, learn the acronyms, learn how to take a data log, god forbid and stop wasting forum space asking pointless questions. I'm not trying to be an asshole here, but notice I was the only one who offered any help?? Yeah, it's because none else has anything worth offering or the ones who do, do not like how you conduct yourself here and won't waste their time, don't shoot the messenger it's just how it is. For example I help with one post and you are expecting me to what exactly, be your on call confidante? Sorry I'm not interested.

It's pointless to spot some mileage at the old small v6
I'm running 2.8 a4 for now and I'd say it's absolutely crap nowadays

Well sorry about my post, its not easy to learn by reading forums because there is different information from same things... i just dont understand why my TABGBTS in original file was -46.. and it was changed to -48, ive been searching and everywhere people has like 300c-900c? Why to lower tabgbts? That is exhaust temperature and seems i dont have any sensor so ecu calculates it? Not sure am i right? But why that is "-xx"

I tried change USR to like 0.080 and after that car idle was not ok.

I did take log from your map nameless and only bad thing was so low lambda (when car was at idle there was weird sound in motor) also responsive was not good.

Heres my log: https://datazap.me/u/a1pp4/log-1701279703?log=0&data=0

I have made some changes, left foot braking of and torque monitoring back to original and trying make some changes to KFMIRL, KFMIOP. Does car go any leaner if i change USR (original 0.442v) to like 0.300 and take lambda protections off?

What you are doing is a waste of time. Nobody is going to want to waste their time helping you waste time.

You're trying to play it off like you're wanting to learn something, but in reality you still believe that wasting your time with this engine will gain you anything.
You're gonna see more financial gain by literally doing anything else than this.

Just my $0.02.

Also you still haven't posted a single log and you're changing fueling without having WBO2 on the car. Not sure what you want to accomplish.
The only thing you will accomplish like that is making it worse than stock.

Never been interested in leaning the motor, but why not disable closed loop and lean out the appropriate maps? I had a 1986 swift gti efi with no lambda sensor from factory   , so no closed loop, and an LC1 wideband I put in it showed rock steady 14.7 afr everywhere except high loads. All done with maps and no feedback.

Thanks for help everybody :) need to search about how to disable closed loop if its possible in this ecu, little confusing because people have different maps so not sure what i need change. But im pretty sure i find that information from this forum :)

Look at RLLRUN to disable closed loop , like I said, never done it before myself. Watch out, you might fuck up 3 way cats if you run lean all the time

All parametres in RRLRUN is 6.000, that is load? So need to put them up like to 100 if im right... well need to read more about disabling closed loop :)

No,leave high rl alone. Put perhaps 50, but its best to log your rl while cruising and use that as a maximum!  Get a damn wideband sensor and gauge from ebay, so you can dial in your lean mixture properly. Chrysler use to use18:1 in their leanburn system, before cat converters required oscillating around 14.7 for their operation. Be sure to log knock real good though. Remember, Im not a tuner, it just what I would do without help from a pro.

Well i ask here, can someone help how to disable obly cat heating (no need for sai disable). Is there easy solution for just cat heating disable?

By help you mean do it for you? No

There is an easy solution to turn it off, if you leave all hardware as is.

agreed, garbage, worthless motor. Not even worth learning to tune on.

I did not ask to do it for me.

I think it can be done by FKHABMN? And do i need change CDHSV and CDHSVE?

And one other thing i want to ask from you about TABGBTS, if i want raise treshold, its -46 (normal value) do i need to go for -30 or like -50? Dont even know why i ask but i cant find any info where someone haves value like that.

I know its pointless to tune this car but i know it will be easier start tune when i change to turbo car. I belive these are basic stuff in remapping...

You're not tuning jack shit, you haven't made a single log or even have a WBO2.

What you're doing is not tuning but playing theorycraft excel spreadsheets, which is even more of a waste of time than tuning this thing.

Ive had logged with vcds and me7logger, why need log about these what i asked?
Well i understand these things are waste of time for you who knows alot, but in my opinion i havent wasted my time when learning and trying understand what to do, like how to change fuel, timing etc.. and take logs...

There isn't a single log posted in this thread.

You need to stop posting everything that comes into your head and start reading and doing.

The first step for you is to seriously sit down and read about the combustion process.
You're messing around with the ECU, but it is clear you do not understand what you want to accomplish.

The issue is not understanding or not understand the ECU, the issue is not understanding how the engine works, and then you throw a complex engine management system on top of that.
Maybe get a simple project car with a standalone ECU and tune that from scratch without any "base map" or anything else, and after you understand what your goal is, you can start messing with ME7 to get you there.

Furthermore, everything you're asking on here has been answered and discussed before, and a lot of info is on the wiki as well.
If you are unable to do research yourself and work on your own without asking for a handout every few minutes, then you're just not going to get very far in this...
Get the english Alfa FR and read about the parameters instead of asking about every single little thing on the forum.