NefMoto

Hi, I've been searching around for some time now and can't find info on how to determine which ecu is in my 01 A6 2.7 without actually removing it?

I probably just missed it, anyone?

Thanks

VCDS

also:
http://nyet.org/cars/files/stock/part-numbers.txt

Open the ecu box (under the hood, right next to the brake master cylinder reservoir) and read the label, or use VCDS lite to connect to ENGINE, it'll be listed in the top left. Very likely 4b0907551aa if you have a 2001 manual trans car, or 4b0907551al for auto.

However, none of this matters. You're not going to want to take the time to tune your stock file, and since I doubt there are any available definition files, your best bet weill be the following:

8d0907551m if you have a manual trans car
8d0907551l if you have a tiptronic car

Those flashes crossload without issue, and they both have very complete definition files available.

4B0 907 551 K

So, is that good for flashing?

4b0907551k is a 2000 ecu. Only used in 2000 models, and it would have a bosch MAF table/offset. Is your car a 2000, or a 2001?

Also, check the MAF sensor. Is it hitachi (2001-up cars) or bosch (2000 cars). If it's a hitachi sensor, and the ecu is a 4b0907551k, the ecu was either reflashed, or your car isn't running at it's true potential.

So I am having a hard time remembering where I found certain information on this site. I know I've come across certain information that I am attempting to relocate...everything is so spread out between different sections and such.

What number does 4B0 907 551 K represent when it comes to the ME7 #?

And...if you had to put it very straightforward when laying out exactly what needs to be done to ensure a safe effective flash experience...what would it encompass? Like at the minimum...

for example...

1.  Locate ECU number
2.  Find custom tune file that corresponds with your ECU
3.  Read current ECU file a backup
4.  Flash new rom
5.  Run program to verify checksum??
???

Thanks again

My car is a 2001...

What is the ecu number in vag-com/vcds. Does the car have a bosch, or a hitachi MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor)?

Someone either reflashed the 4b0907551k with the appropriate flash for the MAF installed, or switched to a bosch MAF (assuming they did it properly).

Priority #1

Determine which maf is installed in your car.

Priority #2

Connect with nefmoto, select FULL READ FLASH (you will be prompted to select a memory layout, select 29f800bb). Then, post the bin here.

Would I just look on the MAF itself or run VCDS?

Look at the MAF itself. While you're doing that, read the flash off the ecu so when you come back in you can post it and I can give you proper assistance.

Ok, so it's a bosch MAF.

And this is my first time playing with the software and I'm not sure it's working properly.

I'm running 1.9.3.2, would it still be FULL READ or a different option?

and is that supposed to work on Win 7 x64?

And what's the deal with the licensing?

I did a Read ECU Info, and it returned some info, but I don't think that's what I am supposed to be running...

Nevermind, just found it... just a moment...

Can't do any operations, I guess I need to license it...?

No. Before you can click FULL READ FLASH you have to SELECT MEMORY LAYOUT. 29f800bb (I did tell you this a few posts up). Once you do that, you can read the file. Licensing only enables premium features such as DTC DECODING and FAST FLASHING options.

And it does not have the immo...

Okay, I'm actually kinda baffled at what I'm finding out right now, cause I did replace the cluster not too long ago and am sure that it does not have an immo...weird.

I think your car is a 2000 and you just haven't realized it yet :)

Ok, got it, here you go.

Possibly...but even by VIN it comes up as a 2001..

Are you asking me to check it again?

Wow, sorry man, had this car for years and it never even occurred to me to actually check the door jam.
I just checked the door jam and sure enough 05/00.
But then I just checked my title and it says 2001 Audi A6.

So, anyway, with this new information, is this car still tune-able?

LOL-I missed it. The first time, My apologies. So you have a 6 speed a6 with a bit of an identity crisis. If it was a hitachi car you could flash any m-box file to it, but having a bosch maf means you must find files that have been altered to use the bosch maf. I'm not sure what your goals are here, but if you are looking for a tune to try make sure it says BOSCH MAF. Anything labeled stage 1 or stage 2 should be fine, but again, make sure it specifies it is for a bosch MAF.

If you are looking to create a tune (my recommendation), download the 8d0907551m bin, along with a matching XDF (for simplicity's sake I have attached them to this post). You're going to want to start by reading the s4 tuning wiki

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning (http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning)

The file I have attached already has the proper MAF tables for bosch, so no worries there (you can thank Jared AKA snowtrooper for that one). Make sure to find CLACINS in the xdf and set it to 0 to eliminate the can-timeout error code (p1650) that you will get flashing a bosch car with a hitachi file.

Now I know you're going to have more questions, but please refrain from asking them until you do some reading. If after you've read the s4 tuning wiki you still have questions, start a new thread.

ANYTIME YOU MAKE ANY CHANGES TO A FILE YOU MUST CORRECT THE CHECKSUMS. FAILING TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN YOUR CAR STARTING ONE TIME, THEN NEVER AGAIN (until you reflash the ecu with a file with correct checksums).

You can flash the file included and will gain approximately 20 hp over the stock a6 file. It is safe to flash until you are capable of creating your own file.

Welcome to nefmoto.

Okay, I will be doing my research now, thanks for setting me on the correct path...

So, just to clarify, I know the bin is the actual flash file...but, where is the xdf file used in the flashing?

And I will always use the 29F800BB Memory Layout?

The xdf file is basically a map. It tells you where all the parameters and maps in the bin (flash) are located. You load the bin, and the xdf into tunerpro (s4wiki FTW).

And yes, you will always use the 29f800bb layout (on your car that is-if you flash a different car, you have to verify the flash memory chip layout and select the correct option in nefmoto).

Welcome!

A quick word of advice about correlating manufacturer year with ECU "box" -- don't expect it to always make sense. I've found "bone stock" cars that have had their "bone stock" ECUs flashed over by who knows who (INCLUDING the dealer!)

Quick thoughts...

Looking into the thread that produced the file that you attached...

It mentioned having to re code the instrument cluster...is that something I should have to worry about?

Set CLACINS to zero (it's located under project configuration) and no need to recode the cluster.

dd: do you know under what circumstances disabling CLACINS is required?

Ok, thanks.

Also, While I research on how to create my own tune, I've discovered a few tunes that appear that they may work with my car.

Wold you recommend any of these tunes to run in the meantime?

And if I do mess up a tune, can I always use my original .bin to flash my ecu back to normal?

Clacins should be zero'd any time you run a hitachi maf tune on a car that originally had a bosch maf. It eliminates p1650.

Eliminates the need to recode the cluster, which doesn't work half the time (leaving you with no tach signal, and possibly locked out of channel 60).

?

Yes.

Under most circumstances (as in you completed the flash with bad checksums). However, if the flash fails, or is interrupted you will end up with an ecu that won't connect to anything. In that case you need a separate program to recover the ecu. Read up on bootmode flashing.

Okay,
And do any of those .bin's I posted look as if they would work with my setup?

You need an M-box, bosch MAF (if you have a 6 speed, which your ecu would suggest you do).
L-box is for an automatic car.

My recommendation, find corradovw's stage 2 and flash that.

Yes 6-Speed.

So, this would flash for me and work without having to verify checksum?

And, one more thing, would there be any benefit to changing over to a hitachi MAF, I mean, besides just making it work with more flash files?

Always us me7check to verify the checksums in a file are ok prior to flashing. Downloading/uploading things can corrupt them. If it reports them as OK, you're good to flash.

As for converting to a hitachi MAF, the only benefit is that they tend to be more reliable, but if your bosch unit is working well there is no need to convert until you need a new one. You can convert any tune to a bosch maf in 2 minutes once you do some more reading. It's really very simple.

Ok sounds good, but that is one of the flashes you were speaking of (above) that should be good for me?

CLACINS does not need to be zeroed. It's just an error class.
Tell the ECU properly not to expect messages from the instrument cluster and there will be no fault code in the first place.

What is the proper way to do this?

And how would that be accomplished?

So, am I correct in thinking that the flashes made by corrado were designed for the Bosch Maf so I shouldn't need to change to CLACINS?

The file is based off an m-box, with bosch maf values substituted for the original hitachi. You need to zero clacins to prevent p1650, but that code won't cause an engine light, nor will it cause any other issues. Just flash the file and try it.

Okay, putting a new clutch in the ride this weekend, and will be flashing the V3 file to give it a try...hope all goes well, I can't believe how much there is to learn about engine control. I never wanted to dive into this too deep, just learn enough to make a small hobby of it with one car...I will get it sooner or later though.

Look at CAN in the FR.

What is the FR?

PRJ was addressing Nyet, not you, but to answer your question:

FR=funktionsrahmen

Have at it.

http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/Funktionsrahmen (http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/Funktionsrahmen)

Your German is better than mine.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3276.msg33126#msg33126

CW_CAN_R.5=0?

So, set 0x12C7A=32 to 0 (mbox), CLACINS leave stock... is the correct way to do it without modifying CLACINS?

Thats the theory but i haven't had a chance to try it

Tis no longer a theory.

 ;)

Thanks as usual dd

Don't want to be a bitch, but I basically told you exactly what to do.
I've also "tested" this plenty of times.

Thank you PRJ.

Sure you do.

And this is why I contribute less and less to this forum.

Bah, don't be such a drama queen :P

What did you expect? You get upset no matter what happens.

People do research on their own after you tell them to screw off, then when they follow up on it (on their own, just like you ask), you bitch and moan about not getting thanks?

I've yet to see you genuinely happy about anything.

Me telling you exactly the page to look at, and you looking at the page and seeing the answer is "research" now?

Wow.

Are we going to quibble over semantics now?

How this

"We followed prj's advice, located the offset and appropriate bit, and went looking for verification that the location was correct, and that the bit functioned as expected, then I thanked the person who verified it worked."

Then, at that point, you got mad at *me* thanking the person who verified it and not you? If you had said "yes, that is the right bit and location" before dd did, I would have thanked you. No big deal.

Honestly, I don't get it. It's ridiculous we are even discussing this. It's beyond infantile.

Again, is there anything that makes you happy?

People who don't need spoon-feeding for trivial things make me happy.

:P

It's also something about you positioning yourself as "veteran", and then being too lazy to go through 1 page of FR, when pointed right to it...
And that's all it is - lazy. You don't need to know any German whatsoever to figure that page out. In fact when you asked the second time I just copy pasted that page into Google Translate to see how well it copes, and everything could be understood.
So at that point I knew you didn't even bother looking at it.

I am not positioning myself as anything.

My first involvement was here:

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3276.msg33126#msg33126

And as, you said, it was trivial to find, so it astounds me that you are mad that you didn't receive "thanks"

Honestly, you are unstable.

Really?
What's this then?
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3217.msg32738#msg32738 (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3217.msg32738#msg32738)
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3217.msg33129#msg33129 (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3217.msg33129#msg33129)

Yes. As I said, my initial guess after looking at the FR. It was trivial, as you suggested it would be.

You seem very agitated over this.

Doesn't change the fact that you were begging to be spoon fed before looking at the FR, for what WAS actually trivial.
If I thought you are not capable of looking this up, I would have described it better than "look at this in FR". No point for me copy pasting the FR, is there?

You seem to make a lot of assumptions.

I made one post: the "German" crack. And it was obviously (I thought) a joke. That was literally the only post I made between my reading your advice and my posting the results of heeding your advice. You've got some very strange narrative built up inside your head that bears no semblance to reality. You seem to spend most of your time deciding if somebody is begging you for something or not.

Except it took you six days.

Err. Yes. I have other things I'm working on, including a full time job (which isn't car related), and things to do on weekends (that aren't car related). In fact, I don't even care about that particular cluster/CAN issue - it doesn't affect me or any of the cars I am currently working on. I was just trying to be helpful. Heck, if you'll notice, it took several days for dd to get around to verifying if I got it right.

If you were so interested in us saving time, you could have just said "don't bother testing, that is the right bit".

Geez. We're supposed to all be on the same side here. I still don't understand how this is an issue.

Thank you for all of your help everybody.