NefMoto

I'm seriously considering converting my Tip A6 2.7T BEL to 6MT, and a few questions:

I understand the Allroad has a 4.3:1 final drive ratio vs. the 4.11:1 of an S4 or A6?  I have Frankenturbos and I'm thinking the 4.3:1 may be beneficial off the line.  Thoughts?  What is a typical 80 mph engine rpm?  What's first gear like in the Allroad, i.e. is it too short or about right?

Any other donor vehicles that would work besides A6 2.7T, S4, Allroad?  I understand about the beefed up 1st gear w/ later models; are there any other 01E differences to be aware of?

Any help appreciated...

They all succumb in the end.
I know I am not helping :p

Too much fun to stop now...

Applauded just for that :)

lol.

Julex went TDI for his trans and has an allroad trans and diff. for sale...

Yeah, I saw that.  Pick-up only.  (I know there are options for that but more of a pain certainly.)

I sent him a PM.  Maybe he knows someone who can forward for me.

I thought allroad trans wouldn't work because of the rear diff.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/489653-01E-from-an-allroad-in-a-s4-b5

I'm pretty sure AARDQ has an AR :)

Mine's an A6, not an AR.  That's one of the things I'm not sure of -- will the AR rear diff physically fit/work?  Obviously it has to match the 01E's final drive, but is there something about the AR rear diff that's different from a regular A6?

AR/A6 diffs are interchangable no? I mean the AR is a c5 after all. The AR diff doesn't fit the b5 is what phila was saying.

I have a long and glorious history of being bitten for making assumptions like that :P

Edit:  No matter, Julex advises against use of AR final drive, and AR box which has shorter gearing.  Says in his opinion the combo is too short even for an AR with larger tire circumference than an A6.

Getting closer -- scrounged up most everything I need.  Mounting brackets were the hard part, convinced someone in the UK to ship to me.  I'm building up an engine for my Jensen Healey and once that project is done and I have it as a daily driver I'll turn back to the 6MT swap.

I'm seriously thinking about going back to K03s from FTs.  Off the line is terrible at my altitude with the FTs, and I'm willing to give up some at the top end to gain back around-town driveability.  Anybody have any experience with swapping to the compressor from the K03-005?  Ridiculous as that sounds, it's a step up in size from the compressor in the K03-016. (31.45 x 44.96 for the K03-016 vs. 35.97 x 49.94 for the K03-005 apparently)  Both models use the same turbine. I'm thinking that this may decrease the failure rate seen with the K03 in 2.7T duty.  Experiences?  Thoughts?

i have to say.  i drove a stage 2, modded NVR tune.  had full downpipes + exhaust, diverter valves, silicone bi-pipe, and stock everything.  *ITS FAST*.  i went from stage 2 to stage 3 so quickly, i never really got to experience the car as a stage 2.  i think its honestly a better daily than a stage 3 in many ways.  if there was a way to have reliable turbos too, i think its a win-win.

for a street car, i think stage 3 is too much tbqh...   i bet the 4.2 v8 based cars have a stage 2 feel, so i get why people say they are boring, but if you are a momentum driver that minimizes all-out WOT, torque and response are *awesome* with stock turbos in my opinion.

SRSLY?

Complaining about spooling a K04!?

How can around town drivability be that bad? An NA 2.7 wouldn't be THAT bad putting around.

Edit: F4H or F21? How much for them?

Stage 2=fun
Stage 3=epic DD

lol. true.  stage 2 sucks.  had me a charlie murphy moment.

It's the altitude, especially as it warms up around here.  It's often 85-90 deg F, at 6,000' you've got a density altitude of ~9,000'.  815 mbar absolute pressure on a good day.  Effectively you have the exhaust energy of a 150 hp engine and the car initially accelerates as if.  No way around it with the FT.

It's not terrible from 2,500 rpms-on but traffic maneuvers from a dead or near-dead stop  ;D require planning and crossed fingers.  That's a decent-sized chunk of the driving I do.  Not happy about it, but them's the brakes.

21's.  Probably be a couple of months before I'm ready to make the switch.

Finally completed my 6MT swap a couple of days ago and holy cow I am stunned at how much better off the line (everywhere, really, but particularly off the line) it is with the manual.  I figured it was Internet hyperbole when people would say that their car was 'transformed', but nope, it's the real deal.

And you were able to get rid of the damned SAI pump, to boot, correct?  I've not missedd mine, that's for sure!! :D

Yes, SAI went away when I changed to Frankenturbos 15 months ago or so (which, in case anyone cares, look and act pristine after 20,000 miles).

Great job, AARDO!   The K03 turbos in my A6, 6 spd., are singing their swan song, so it looks like it's about time for the Frankenturbo investment. 

I need to do this to my allroad

Sourced parts like driveshaft and trans mounts from ebay.de and ebay.co.uk and convinced seller to ship to US.  Used an FYF-code trans from a 2002 A4 3.0.  Unfortunately figured out too late that that model has a 0.73 6th rather than 0.68 so 3,250 rpms at 80 mph, which is excessive IMO.  I may change to one of the TDI options at some point, but I don't do enough driving at that speed to justify it at this point.

The allroad i've heard is much easier since we got an NA 6sp version here...

My Allroad is a manual swap car. Purchased for a great price with a slipping reverse in the tip trans. Its really just a bolt in affair. Even the holes for clutch hydraulics are present.

The conversion make a huge difference, but I used the A6/S4/S6 4.11 final drive to keep the rpm low while on the highway. The factory final drive for the AR with a manual is 4.39 and the tip is even lower with 4.89! The trans I am running has the B5 S4 gear ratios so It also skips the very low Allroad first ratio.

Bryan at audiS4parts is also making a center driveshaft adapter so you can keep the tip prop shaft too. The tip shaft is ~4" shorter. Finding an Allroad manual center drive shaft was the most difficult part. It has a bespoke carrier bearing to match the lowered drivetrain so a manual A6 unit would need adapted.

So, a couple of weeks ago I had a strange pulsation in the clutch pedal.  Has briefly happened a couple of times since, but very briefly, almost like I'm 'feeling" things.  This morning no reverse with engine on.  If I engage reverse engine-off, start engine and back up, no problems, no weird noises -- but then into neutral and try reverse again, no luck unless I shut the engine off.  I have a Sachs RS4 PP, and it seems from research like finger connecting ring failure is pretty common?  Linkage seems fine...

Any other possibilities before I tear into things?

Any recommendation for a replacement PP that won't fail after 3 months?  400-420 HP level is fine.

Edit:  Spent a couple of hours troubleshooting and the problem went away.  Was just about ready to conclude that I was screwed when as a last ditch I straightened out the (flexible) clutch hydraulic line (it dipped lower than the slave at one point).  Pumped the clutch pedal a dozen times and back in business.  Can't say for certain if it was air, and I'm not going to be surprised if the problem comes back, but for now I'm very relieved.

AARDQ-

Did you have any trouble recoding the ABS module? Did you flash the ECU or just recode it? I just did the swap in an S4 and didn't recode the ABS module before disconnecting the TCU.  Now I can't get the ABS module to accept the manual code.

It is a PITA. You have to login. Usually 07497. Then, clear codes. Then, recode (whatever your current coding is, change the last number to a 5). Hit do it. Repeat until it sticks.

Then, do a steering alignment.

I remember seeing someone on one site or another who ended up moving the old auto trans next to the car and plugging back in the TCU and trans until he could get the coding to stick.

Mine is a BEL w/ 7.1.1 4Z7907551R so I didn't reflash, just recoded.

I didn't actually have to do a steering alignment, just entered that mode and exited.  It worked.  Also, you may get a "Coding error" DTC  for the ABS and ECU but those will go away once you disconnect the TCU.  For the ABS (even after you code it correctly) you may also get a "test activated' code and ABS light.  That will go away and the ABS light will go out after you go on a short drive.

Good luck!

You do not need the TCU plugged in to recode :)

Interesting.  Another bit of Internet gospel wiped out...

The repeat until it sticks part sucks.  I was working with someone on an allroad mt swap and the shop re-coded it, but I think chose the wrong brakes.  Tried changing the coding but gave up after several attempts of it not sticking.  Not sure if we were using the wrong login or what.  Is there any indication in VCDS if enter an incorrect login?

Also, the login... is that based off of what the coding used to be, or what it is now?  Does the login remain the same from the factory regardless of the coding?  Or does it dynamically change based on coding.

It would be nice to clear up these questions.

If it's a C5, the login is 07495/07497. If you login wrong, the module crashes and you have to cycle the key to reconnect :)

This was a help to me WRT to the ABS module.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A6_%284B%29_Brake_Electronics_%28Bosch_5.7%29

then at least we must have been logging in correctly.

It's very specific. What I do is as follows:

Clear codes. The incorrectly coded will remain. That should be the only one. If you have failed a login, and have a DTC that says "Check DTC memory of engine controller" Do that. Clear the engine codes, then go back to ABS. Clear the codes in ABS.

Login with 07495.

Clear codes again.

Go to coding. Change the last digit from a 7 to a 5. Press do it.

If the coding has changed, excellent. If it hasn't, repeat the above steps. Sometimes I alternate between 07495 and 07497 as login codes, only because I get frustrated and want to kill something.

Eventually, it works. Sometimes takes one try, others 5, others 20, but it ALWAYS works. After the coding sticks, clear the codes again. Then, do an SAS alignment and you're good to go. If you skip the alignment, when you turn the key off and then back on the coding may revert. Noone wants that.

You can code the ABS manual with the ecu auto or manual, with the tcu in, or out. It's just a fickle bitch.

 

Have you ever done the 409 mod on an allroad? :) "fickle bitch" is an understatement.

I have tried everything except clearing the codes while logged in.  I will try that tomorrow.  I am not sure that I actually get logged in.  As soon as I clear the code it comes immediately comes back. 

18034 Powertrain Data Bus
           P1626 - 35 - 00 - Missing message from TCU

Thanks for the suggestions, hopefully I can get it to stick.

Finally got the ABS code to stick.  Tried many times. Then I closed the controller and logged in using the 6MT log in.  Checked codes, and it had added the wrong coding fault.  Tried the coding and it stuck first time.  Now on to the ECU.....Thanks again!