NefMoto

I am trying to code out my secondary O2 sensors because I am throwing codes for the O2 heater. I read the file from my stage 1 socketed chip L box. I compared the addresses below in the stock M box to my stage 1 L box file and they appeared identical. Addresses and changes below.

Enable/Disable Diagnosis:                                                                 Old         New
0x81819E, Post cat O2 heater diagnosis                                             1           0
0x81819F, Post cat O2 heater amplifier diagnosis                                 1           0
0x8181AA, Post cat O2 sensor diagnosis                                            1           0
0x8181A2, Catalytic converter efficiency diagnosis                                1           0

Enable/Disable Fault Code:
0x8106F0, Error Class: Bank 1 post cat O2 sensor heater                     3           0
0x8106F1, Error Class: Bank 2 post cat O2 sensor heater                     3           0
0x8106F2, Error Class: Bank 1 post cat O2 sensor heater amplifier        3           0
0x8106F3, Erro r Class: Bank 2 post cat O2 sensor heater amplifier        3            0

I ran the checksums in the Ultimo checksum corrector and all came back good. I then flashed the modified file to my stock J box. So far all is well. I then connected with VAG-com and when I opened the engine control module, where it normally displays the Engine type it read "THIS IS THE RAM PROGRAM". I have seen this in my logs before and decided it was a product of the flash tool. Checked fault codes and there were none. Then I closed VAG and started the car. No problem, idle was a little rough, but not bad. Connected with VAG again and no problems or codes. The engine control module now displayed 8D0907551L. I shut off the car and attempted to restart. No start. Attempted to connect with VAG and I cannot. I wasn't able to connect with NefMoto or anything. At this point, my laptop battery only had a few minutes left so I had to stop.

I am attaching the original stage 1 file, my modified file, and the NefMoto log file. Can someone please help me figure out what went wrong? I do not really trust the Ultimo checksum corrector as every combination of bins that I have tried needed no corrections. If it is a checksum issue can someone please correct them for me? Also, will I be able to flash this ECU using the NefMoto tool? Thank you.

Mike

"I ran the checksums in the Ultimo checksum corrector and all came back good."


If the Ultimo program says that Check zones=0 after the comparison, it hasn't actually managed to properly check any checksum zones at all, i.e. the checksums can be totally wrong and the Ultimo program won't do anything about it.

I couldn't find any documentation on it and  the results were highlighted in green. Green means good to me. I got the same results with every combination of bins I tried. Have you had success with this program and ME7?

Yes, I've tested it for both VAG ME7 (1.8T engines, both 512kB and 1024kB files) and Volvo ME7 actually. Some VAG ME7 doesn't work for some reason (Checked zones=0)... The program usually autodetects the type of file and chooses the proper checksum scheme.

The 8D0907551L uses a newer version of CRC data checksum. Seems like
the tool you used does not support this.
Your modified O2_DELETE file has wrong data section checksums and page checksums:
 checksum = 786471B5 <-> 7F3DA2A9 (calculated data area crc32) ** NOT OK **
 checksum = 36D20605 <-> 22FB6B3E (calculated data area crc32) ** NOT OK **
 810000 - 813FFF (wordwise) = 06E5F89E,  checksum = 06E5FEA4   ** NOT OK **
 818190 - 81BFFF (wordwise) = 06C2BA86,  checksum = 06C2BB89   ** NOT OK **
-> See the fixed binary

You will see "THIS-IS-THE-RAM-PROGRAM-" if the flash tool connects to
address $01 while the ECU is still in a programming session.
The logfile shows successful reading and programming cycle, but then 5 minutes later
you could no longer connect (maybe because the battery voltage had dropped too far?).
Did you try with the newest version of the NefMoto FlashTool to recover?

I tried it on a few S4/RS4 bins that were heavily butchered and it didn't detect any errors, zero zones checked as posted above.  I do get a DLL error when it first starts, but it seems like it is in Italian?

Any lucked getting this sorted out?

Can you connect with VAG-COM or NefMoto?

Worse case you could use Galletto to do a boot mode flash to go back to your old tune.

Thanks setzi62. Unfortunately, I still cannot connect with NefMoto or Vag-com. Where do I go from here? What do I need to get started with Galletto?

Thank you again for all the help guys.

Mike

You can convert an eBay KKL cable into a Galletto cable by doing this:
http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=321.0

Or you can buy a Galletto cable off of eBay for $25.

Thanks Tony. Galletto cable should be here before the weekend.

I noticed your log file was from version 1.4.2.2 or something. You could download version 1.6.1.0 and see if that helps you connect.

Galletto cable arrived but....
What is the secret to get this thing into boot mode?

I am following Notorious VR's write-up on AZ. It's not exactly clear to me what "ground" the pin means. I am flashing in the car and connected a wire from the strut to the pin, had my wife turn the ignition to on and removed the wire about 10 secs later. Galletto tells me boot mode not initialized. Also tried from the batteries negative terminal. Same thing. Forgive me as my backround is in data and not electronics.

I have read elsewhere to apply a 1k ohm resistor to the pin. Is that what I am missing?

Can someone give me directions for dummies to get into boot mode?

Tony, I have since updated to the current version of NefMoto and have gotten the same results as previously.

Grounding the pin does in fact mean connecting it to the battery negative/ground etc. I am not sure how well getting into boot mode will work with the ECU in the car as the car is always supplying some power to the ECU.
Do you have a picture of your ECU PCB? I know with the ME7.1.1 boards I am using a jumper must be removed from the bottom of the board before boot mode can be enabled.

(http://nyet.org/cars/images/ME7.1-bootmode-info.png)

something like this. hold button or short pin to ground while powering up the ecu

holding the pin to ground while turning the ignition from off to on works.

You can easily get into boot mode with the ECU in the car.  On my "development" ECU I made a pigtail which plugs into a short section of wire with a toggle switch that I ran behind the fuse panel.  My car has a big EFK, so I've had a few flashes puke on the side of the road.  Anyway, here is what it looks like:

(http://gallery.trumpio.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=42846&g2_serialNumber=2)

(http://gallery.trumpio.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=42841&g2_serialNumber=2)

I would not recommend this for daily driving... but you get the point.  As Nyet said, the ignition is what boots the ECU, so I flip the switch to close the circuit, turn the key, then turn the switch off after 3-4 seconds.

I have uploaded pictures below. When the key is turned I hear a few clicks. I hold it for a count of 10 or so then attempt to connect with Galletto. Everytime I get boot mode not initialized.

Pin that I grounded outlined
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/phila_dot/IMG_0715-1.jpg)

Big Picture
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/phila_dot/IMG_0713.jpg)

Bottom

(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/phila_dot/IMG_0718.jpg)

Can someone describe exactly what they are using to ground the pin?

At first I was using a 22 gauge wire that I pinched between the jumper cable and negative battery terminal and held the other end of bare wire to the pin. Then I soldered a ring terminal to one end and a 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the other end (still 22 gauge wire). I took the nut off the end of the battery cable and attached the ring terminal (no jumper cables this time). I then held the resistor to the pin. Same results.

youll want to find a more local ground

As shown in the pictures that nyet and Jason posted, you can just connect the two solder pads on the ECU board. No real need to find a ground other than that.

Easiest way I've found without soldering anything to the board is to use a pair of curved needle point tweezers to short the two pads in my picture and nyet's picture.  Of course you'll need somebody to either do this for you, or key on your car for you.  As a precaution make sure you ground the tweezers and yourself to the car before you touch the pads.

I have screwed this up before when flashing over OBD. I have solved it by disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together for about 5 seconds. Then I flashed it immediately over OBD with the corrected file. This has worked for me, YMMV.

I never was able to establish a connection with this ECU in the car or on the bench. I'm think the ECU is toast. It has suffered quite a bit of abuse. I had it removed from the case for a long period of time and it was dropped a few times. I have replaced it and flashed the file succesfully. Thank you to everyone that replied.

Can someone please help me? I have tried to access my ecu in boot mode with both the nefmoto flashing program (numerious versions) and galletto 1260 with no luck either way. I was grounding the pin 24 as pictured in the photo posted by phila dot and have not had any luck getting the ecu into boot mode so that i could read or write to the ecu. can someone please tell me if i am doing something wrong? i bricked the ecu one time before a year ago and tried this same method and got the ecu going within a few minutes and no i am not having any luck. thanks

is there any way to tell if the ecu is going into boot mode? also i am doing this with the ecu in the car...