NefMoto

Hello
so i drive a SEAT LEON 2011 2.0TFSI 240BHB
and i got a big turbo installed GT3076 running 24PSI using 95 octane with the supported mods(injectors,HPFP)
i flashed the ECU with maestro all is good, but ever since i was stock when i do a log with the car stock before i installed the turbo i see a retardation in all the calenders about -9 at 4k RPM to redline
and even after the big turbo and installing a water/meth kit i see the same results -9 timing retardation in each calender the AFR is perfect 12.7 all the way to redline.
so my question is this normal ? why my engine from factory got all this timing retardation ? and why the water/meth kit isn't changing anything ? is there some sitting to change in the ECU to make it advance the timing apart from the map setting ?
help a fellow please, im alone on this at my country and no one to discuss this with  :(
Thanks a lot.

although i have never used maestro, are you sure all of your load, KFMIOP, KFMIRL, and such is sorted properly? when i was hitting my max for KFMIOP i was getting timing pull of -9, also, 12.7 AFR is a little bit lean i would think for how much boost you are running, how much timing are you requesting?, logs would help a ton

Thanks for the help krazydbiker
the thing is this timing retardation was there since i got the can from the factory so i don't think there is anything wrong with maestro. the AFR right now is 13.7 after i played with it yesterday, its off the scale i know i will make it 12.4
the car pulls great (wheel spin at 4rth) the other thing i noticed is there is a black smoke at WOT even with the AFR at 13.7  ???
what blocks you want me to log  ?

here is two logs i did today, there is a strange -12 retard now  :o even with part throttle
i also changed the plugs before i did the logs and lowered the boost (running MBC) i should note that i am running MAFless
i uploaded the csv files to a site that make them easy to view.
each log got a deferent blocks since i cant log them all at the same time

Please attach the .csvs directly.

I don't care about "easy to view", i want to be able to run them through ecuxplot.

here is the files

1) Very hot intake air.
2) Try to use 98 octane gas.
3) Try reduce timing at 1500-2500 by 3 deg on 60-110 loads

we don't have 98 here only 95
will it help if i use 100% meth ? or 50/50 is better to cool the air more ? i am using a large IC too

edit: hard to say whats going on, but by the looks of things i would get it professionally tuned before you break something

Thats is professionally tunned by the makers of maestro, its not my tune.
i have been running with this tune for more than 6 months but it wasn't this bad at timing(-12)
i will post a log with the car at idle, there is a strange O2 correction going on.
Edit: here it is
Edit2: do you guys think that there is a map thats forcing the retardation because of the AIT ?
another question if the O2 sensor ir reading 12.5 why is there is A LOT of black smoke at WOT ? i changed the plugs yesterday and they where full of carbon.

Another update
today i run a test with the MAF plugged in and the water/meth also plugged in using pure water only.(spry start at 11 PSI-19 PSI)
i await your opinions and suggestions.

Thanks for taking the time to see my problem.

seems to me you might want to replace the O2 sensor, just to make sure its not faulty. as for the timing pull, it seems related to the maf delete

Run 50-50 WM,The intake air temperature is too high and when doing correction -12 what is the correct Ignition - Timing Angle °BTDC?

also, isnt -12 the most timing pull you can have??

Is your retard ever LESS than 12 degrees?

Thanks guys
see the last log i posted, after i plugged the MAF and run pure water in the meth kit the retardation was much better.
i have ordered some meth and i am waiting for it to arrive so i can further test the timing problems.
i may have know whats causing this max retard of the timing. for some odd reason the engine fail to check the o2 sensor and i got this in vagcom (see the attached image) but after i re-flash it will "Passed" and the engine timing will be much better.
should i go and change both o2 sensors ? or leave them ?
Another question: whats the name of the map that control the timing passed on the AIT ? so i can tell the maestro guys to add it.

Nothing is going to run well with broken O2s.

Stop tuning until you have fixed all your hardware.

Sure thing.
But is it really broken or the ECU is malfunctioning? since sometimes it works just fine  ???

"Sometimes" working is not working fine.