NefMoto

hi
problem like in topic.
In Group 032: 001F (rkat_w), 0021 (fra_w),
my fra_w value goes to about -18% and stays on this level :/
A can reset ECU to get 0% but after throttle body adaptation it goes back to -18%
In my opinion this LTFT changes like mostly because of driving at 2000-3000 rpm,
because this is when my STFT values fr_w (or frm_w - same value on my car) goes down to big minus.

I spent a lot of time and money for changing parts (maf, o2 sensor etc.) and finding what cause the problem, but still got nothing :(

The patient is Audi TT mk1 180hp quattro, with OEM ECU soft with some mods like TIP, FMIC, Catback exhaust and amsoil air filter. I have the problem since I bought the car.

this is my log on 3gear from about 1500 till red.
I'm putting the log as a link + original log file as attachment
log link: http://vaglog.rtnet.pl/soulx666_132405.html

please help :(
any suggestions or log interpretations will be great

were injectors or fpr changed ?

if the injectors are stock and stock FPR, you need to perform vacuum and boost leak tests. When looking at block 32, if the values are > +/-5% indicates either a boost or vacuum leak in the system.

If the injectors are aftermarket and tuned for in your ECU, hopefully the tuner tested for leaks before they used block 32 to tune for the injectors.
I guess if you recorded the values that were in block 32 before and used those as your zero point you could still tune for injectors with vacuum/boosts leaks in the system but why would want to do that? leaks are just bad news.

Dont bother doing any pulls until you fix your intake leaks and your trims are stable.

Well the problem is not that easy  ;)
But I wanted to hear your first shots before I will give you the full story.

This is what I've already did.

a/ I did leak test many times by putting psi into TIP starting from 0 and going up til 15 psi.
Got nothing.
here you have some vid from my leak tests:
http://youtu.be/GHUH-R3qYoE
http://youtu.be/_FDlkEGBG-0

b/
injectors are stock. I checked all 4 and replaced o-rings.
They are perfect dry on car - no leaking fuel.
And this is how they run:
http://youtu.be/8zKOsrPgqZk

c/I changed smic to FMIC and bought new turbo outlet pipe and all hoses.
So I'm 100 % sure that I have no leaks on a way from air filter to turbo, from turbo to fmic and from fmic to intake manifold.
Vacuum hoses also checked and changed.

d/ I checked fuel pump by doing performance test from bentley manual (fuel delivery rate checking) - quantity of delivered fuel was fine.

e/ I have stock fpr (3 bar). Also checked.
I replaced mine for tests with second one from a car with perfect trims and still got the problem. So this is not FPR fault.

f/ I also bought a new OEM MAF and O2 sensor. Both changed for factory new TWICE to be sure.

As you can see I did a lot and still have no clue what did I miss.
Looks like everything is fine, but trims are showing the true.
I studied a lot about how LTFT works to understand why my trim goes down and down. But also got no new informations.
I would like to know from what values ECU gets data to create LTFT (fra_w).
There MUST be something that I missed.
Maybe you can see something more than fra_w on my log that is wrong or should I make any other type of log to know something new ?

 

How about stock ecu?

hmm... no "soapy water in a spray bottle" method? do another leak test...

What's the PCV system looking like? Are you absolutely sure the check valve between the intake and PCV system is closing properly during boost? If the vacuum amplifier in the PCV system is failing you'll get boost leakage into the PCV also. It doesn't take much for them to gum up and allow boost to leak. What about the pressure regulating valve that is mounted in the TIP? If it fails you'll get the boost leak dtc.

With your -18% trim the ECU is removing 18% of the fuel that it SHOULD need. This is happening because the air mass that is supposed to mix with that fuel is escaping the system somewhere. I know of no other explanation because you said the injectors are stock. If the number is positive the ECU is adding fuel to compensate for the extra air mass in the system (vacuum leak)

Good luck! I hope you figure out the problem sooner than later.

Hi,

What I believe is
1) FPR stuck
2) wrong MAF sensor
3) mapping issue

Please post your ECU file here

There are no leaks because the LTFT is -18% so ecu removes fuel. When you have leaks MAF counts lower and ECU adds fuel so it should be +18% for leaks!

Regards,
Fotis

I had a problem a near the FMIC leak (after the Maf obviously) , so the maf counted for X amount of air but in the end there was X/2 air going in the chamber ,so it removed (negative LTFT) fuel :) :)

This is by far the easiest explanation to understand on fuel trims and it's creditable.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

I want to add in here that you should perform the leak testing on a fully warmed up engine. It's a PITA but sometimes leaks only happen when the engine is hot. Also, utilize a test pressure much higher than you ever intend on the turbocharger boosting. Use the "soapy water in a spray bottle" boost leak detection method and watch for bubbles! :D

how to get any results during this test if there is underpressur in the system?

OEM pcv system is out including pcv valve.
I changed pcv system to closed oil catch tank system
you can see it here on my car:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img835/6862/dsc09309b.jpg)


do you mean DV valve?
if yes, it is changed to new made by forge.

and what IF ecu by this -18% is removing fuel that SHOULDN'T be there?
my car is using more fuel during drive than it should, so maybe I realy have to rich mixture during normal daily drive?
during logs STFT is perfect, so you can even see on log that during making it my LTFT is getting better because of perfect STFT
but during normal city drive STFT values goes to big minus values. In my opinion this is the cause of my big LTFT,
but I still can't find why my STFT goes down during calm daily city drive.
Is injector time value correct on my log?
Maybe there is any other sensor connected with fueling or air in car that is broken and gives wrong values to ecu so injectors have wrong timing during city drive?
In my opinion injectors are fine but are working wrong because of ecu. Is this theory possible?
 

you think that my stock ecu can be damaged  ???

nope - like I said - I swapped my fpr with one from car with no trim problems - and I still got same trim problem after ecu reset on my car
so it's definitly not a fpr fault

nope, bought 2 OEM factory new bosh maf dedicated by numbers for my car
what do you mean ? and how can I check it ?
I will

yeap, I also think that this is not a leak problem,
but like I wrote before I double checked it anyway

hmm on hot engine? I will try it
Is there any sense in this soapy water leak test here?
I mean there is underpressure in the system so I won't see aby bubbles anyway...
Am I wrong here? How should I perform this test with underpressure in the system?

thanks I know this one, and a few more, including OEM bosh service manual.
I understand the theory - I mean I know how it works,
what I don't know is how exacly LTFT value is creating by the ECU,
are there any car sensors (more than maf and o2) connected with the proces so I can check it?

I'd be willing to bet you have the wrong MAF.

have you tried running the maf unplugged ?

Yes! MAF reads half the airflow -> tell to ECU to inject half times -> leaner AFR -> O2 reads leaner than 14.7 -> O2 controler add fuel to hit the lambda = 1 target -> STFT = positive
It is classic if you see 20-25% and it still misfire in idle :P

Vaccum leak? The check valve under the intake in the crack case breather if it still there, the hockey puck in the TIP.
If those are not it, check the front o2? Is that car a wideband? I've seen narrowband passats drive the fuel trim but I
have not seen a wide that bad, unless leaded fuel was used and I've seen 116oct destroy o2s..

Sorry for any confusion. Do the boost leak test with the spray bottle full of soapy water. So run the engine, warm it up. turn it off. Then pressurize the system to a psi higher than what the car is set to make on boost. Spray lots of soapy water and watch for bubbles.
For vacuum leak, run the engine, when warmed up, use propane or some other flammable gas and direct it at the hose joints. if the idle rpm raises then you have a vacuum leak in that area.

The pressure regulating valve I am talking about is NOT the DV. VW calls it a "pressure regulating valve". (the hockey puck thing that connects the PCV to the TIP, in your case the catch can to the TIP).

What do you mean by perfect fuel trims above? If they are within +/-5% you are good to go.

There is only one other thing that I can think of that may cause your trim issue...and that is an exhaust leak between the cylinder head and B1S1 02 sensor.
The 02 sensor would see this as a lean condition, therefore the ECU would be adding more fuel to compensate. Your idle trim would be in the positive values somewhere and partial/multiplicative value would be in the negative like you are experiencing because the "perfume bottle" effect would be nonexistent in part throttle and WOT.
So the ECU "sees" this condition and sets idle trim accordingly then at partial throttle and above(block 32, 2nd value) when the fuel trims are set after some driving around awhile, the ECU now takes fuel away from "target fueling" because the condition at idle is no longer existent because you aren't at idle.

well I don't think so  ::), but of course I can check it once more  ;D

no, should I try?
how long can I drive with unplugged MAF to not damage the car ? I mean approximately minutes or kilometers.

the valve is out

hmmm never thought about this one  :-\
its construction looked so simple to me that I thought it can't be broken ;]

is there any test to check it?
I bought OEM factory new twice, but I don't know how to check it

unfortunately it is narrowband
I'm using only european 98 oct fuel

ok I will do it

hmmm flammable gas on hot engine? isn't this kinda risky? ;)

like I answered to previous quote - if this will be the cause I wil go crazy ;)
I totally ignored this valve ;)

I was talking about my Short TFT during logs (fully open throttle),
I noticed that after reseting ecu to get 0% trims,
when I start driving hard with high rpm then my stft are near zero and ltft also stays fine.
But when I change drive style to calm, about 2000-3000 rpm my stft goes down to big negative values and this is the moment when my LTFT starts to also go down to big negative values.
So looks like the cause of my negative ltft lies in something connecting with low rpm driving.

yes, I also thought about it,
I changed only cat back exhaust is it any test to check leaks in the exhaust section that you mentioned?


I also thought about some experiments with open/closed loop. But I don't know if this is a good idea.

and last but not least, did anyone check my car's OEM ecu file that I attached to my last post ? is it fine ?

not really...unless you have backfires? lol it might light your propane torch for you!

What all have you deleted emissions wise and the such?

maybe a check valve somewhere is stuck open in the vacuum system?

as far as checking for leaks in the exhaust between the head and S1 02 sensor...check the gaskets  between head and turbo mani, turbo outlet to DP, make sure your 02 sensors are tight, and last but not least....look at the pic. look for cracks in the pipe...no the pipe is not red hot in the pic lol
 edited the pic for better view..
(http://imageshack.us/a/img842/9588/eyau.jpg)

I still like the hockey puck for this, but do you have a intake spacer? I've seen them melt and leak.
Since exhaust leak was brought up it could be between the manifold and turbo I've seen that leak
alot but you can hear it. Make sure the front o2 is working proper, I'm not going to explain that but
there is alot of videos on reading the front o2.

userpike who made toe pic ? ;) the quality is horrible  ;D I see almost nothing there ;)
Can I simply remove this hockey puck valve for tests or should I swap it for new one ?

Can you give me a link to this kind of video or instructions ?
I was looking for o2 diagnostics for some time but found nothing helpful

it is a pic from my old DP! lol I know the resolution sucks but who cares? The point is, the light coming through what looks like holes but really is a crack in the pipe. just "connect the dots" in your mind to visualize the crack that is actually there.
I guess I could try to take a better pic as I have the DP sitting in the shed as a future conversation piece but I don't think I really need to.

I don't have time as I am leaving for work right now but when I get home if no one has given instruction on how to test the "hockey puck" then I will at that time. Good luck!

To test the pressure regulating valve (hockey puck) put your thumb over one of the openings and put suction on the other( I just use my mouth). If suction doesn't hold, replace the part.

Also, while performing the first operation you should hear or maybe feel the vibration of something moving inside as suction increases. If you release the suction immediately you should hear or feel what's moving inside spring back to it's original position.

It must pass both of these tests for it to be functioning properly.

I noticed you said the check valve(PCV) between the intake mani and PCV system has been deleted. So is the port just closed up or do the hoses still reside but without that check valve? What about the opening on top of the oil cooler. Is closed up also? If so, what did you use to do that with?

front 02 http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=184323 (http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=184323)
hockey puck http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5051507-Hockey-Puck-Pressure-Regulator-Valve (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5051507-Hockey-Puck-Pressure-Regulator-Valve)

I was thinking the same thing when looking for the links for him.
but in his pic it looks like it goes to the catch can and then to valve cover?
PS what the hell is that other hose?

yea I dunno either until he chimes in. The pic doesn't really show under the intake that well.
I must say about the only thing good in the thread about the "hockey puck" you gave a link to is the schematic of the valve. The rest of the content is pretty much useless..don't confuse the man! lol
If it doesn't do what I explained, the part is faulty and needs to be replaced, bottom line.

Yea I posted for the schematic, I kind of suck at the internet, but I know 1.8t

Which hose? The one with the orange stripe? If so, that comes from his DV I believe. I think he has a cold side DV relocation kit and hasn't plugged the opening where he was running the DV or BOV before in the pic.

Ahhh yes I should have noticed.

Hey Malinovsky, when was the last time you reset the adaption values?

Were you running a BOV or DV before the pic was taken?

I think I know what the problem is depending on your answers to these 2 questions.

Ok I will try to fully explain how I changed OEM pcv system to my catch tank system.
from this part near oil filter:
(http://www.ecstuning.com/product_library/11759/800/Crankcase%20Breather%20Hose%252FTube.jpg)goes a new hose directly to mycatch tank open
this is the place on my car:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img543/1411/dsc04037mh.jpg)
this is my catch tank with 3 opens:
(http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7978/dsc02800jh.jpg)
second tank open on the side goes directly to valve cover
and the open on the top of my catch tank goes to to "hockey puck" valve that goes to TIP.
this is the and of my pcv system. It is a fully closed system.
Oh and open under inkake manifold from valve that gone to oem pcv valve is closed now.
Hope I cleared the situation :)

Also this N's system is out:
(http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/9104/dsc03499wb.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img805/3874/dsc04060j.jpg)
now dv is connected via hose directly to intake manifold.
I also have cold side dv relo kit

thanks I will try it today.
Should I first reset ecu to get 0% in LTFT before I start this test ?
Or should I do it with my LTFT on -18% ?
or maybe it doesn't matter at all ?

Ok I explained my changes in pcv and N's systems, so now my dv relo kit.
Before mod OEM dv place was like this:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img801/2861/dsc02995tq.jpg)
after a mod this is a new cold side open for dv:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img46/7871/dsc09031zn.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img14/4885/dsc09059o.jpg)
2 orange hoses are dv hoses,
one to new open on cold side, and second (the one you have asked about goes to second open on TIP - the same open that OEM)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img707/5863/dsc09074b.jpg)
black small hose goes directly to intake manifold (OEM open under manifold)
full dv sestem:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img46/4058/dsc09077p.jpg)

oh, and dv is a new forge 007 for mk1 TT
I was using OEM dv when my setup was fully OEM,
when I started mods I changed OEM AUdi DV to forge DV.
I never used BOV - in my opinion BOV is a bad idea for 1.8T engine ;)

I'm reseting ecu and adaptation valies from time to time.
Usually when I want to test some new idea to deal with the problem or want to do some new logs
So I can say I reset it when I change or swap some parts that can be a cause of the problem.

of ane ONE MORE VERY IMPORTANT INFO for everybody:
I have this problem since I bought the car. Ihe car was full OEM that time.
I started changing parts to new and mods slowly always checking it the problem is getting better.
But nothing good happend since that time.
So my point is. I'm 100% sure that
THE PROBLEM IS NOT CONNECTED WITH ANY OF MY MODS.
But of course this is only what I think and checked so we can argue about it :)
Feel free to any new ideas.
I will check o2 sensor using test in link you gave me and hockey puck using test you described.

no n249system is bad for 1.8ts also. There are reasons they were implemented. #1 you get faster reaction time when compared to using just the manifold vacuum.  
#2 the ECU can use the DV as a safety feature if needed only if the n249 system is still connected.

If I were you I would reinstall the components for this system. There are plenty of discussions about this on the forum.


I was thinking if you were using a BOV the trims would be screwy because the metered air being vented to atmosphere instead of diverted back behind the MAF. So scratch that idea..

So you are saying that you have reset the adaption values and consistently get the -19 in the 2nd value of block 32?
What does the first value show?
What are you using to reset the adaption values?

He said he bought this car with this problem, Now I'm thinking maybe the tune, and or lemmewinks.

Yes,
after reseting ecu I need only a few minutes of driveing and values goes back to -19%
In the first value number is very very near to zero %, like - or + 0,5%.
I reset ecu using vag-com software.

in fact I can even show you the full process on logs

a/ this is a first log. The engine is cold. I just started a car, reset ecu to get 0% trims and adapt throttle body.
The car is on, and running on idle. You can see that LTFT is about 0% but STFT goes to about -10% and even more.
this is the log (2 samples per sec):
http://vaglog.rtnet.pl/soulx666_132888.html

b/ and now after a few minutes I started a normal drive. Not a log run, just a normal drive.
You can see how LTFT goes down to about -11% and during this drive STFT shows even -25%
If I would log a few more minutes LTFT would go down to -19% and then stays with this value until I reset ecu again.
this is run log (also 2 samples per sec):
http://vaglog.rtnet.pl/soulx666_132889.html

I also added both logs in csv file format as attachments here to this post,
idle log name finish with word "start", and normal drive log name finish with "run"

I don't think that car was tunned before I bought it.
I did logs after I bought car and values were stock.
I also was on dyno after I bought it:
(http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1066/hamownia4x4.jpg)
+ I added my ecu file in this topic as attachment - so you can check in I'm right

That dyno graph looks like the car has a surging issue also?  What boost does it make and does it surge?
Lemmiwinks data is stored in the EEPROM (same area with the immo) from my understanding I'm not sure
if it shows up in the read .bin file or not. I do know that TT guys love Lemmiwinks for some reason, and that
I've seen people use it for all the wrong reasons.

maybe I am blind but I don't see your ECU file attached anywhere.

First page maybe the tenth post. It would do me no good to download it I have no XDF no would have anything to compare it to :(

I do have a 180 tt ecu but I'm sure its tuned so it will not be of any help right now.

found it..dunno how I missed it.. ???

I will check it out I think I have a definition file for it maybe.

haha you are good :) Yes there was a small issue with surge when I bought a car.
It was caused by old OEM DV. The dyno was made before I changed it to forge, so you can see surge on graph (but to be honest I've no idea how you saw it :D ).
I just put this grapf to show that car was fully stock - 179,5 hp on graph, and I have 180hp version.
Right now, after mods I mentioned in topic I have a few more hp, but this is not important here :)

If the fuel trims are positive on short term and  negative on long term i have seen many bad mafs cause this issue. even with out any faults other than rich.

trims are negative on both short and long term
someone gave idea about test drove with unplugged maf.
For how long can I drive like this to not harm my vehicle ?  ::)

You can drive without the MAF indefinitely. The ecu uses a calculated value sans the MAF signal. If it were me, I'd flash a known stock file (yours doesn't look stock, if the car is rated @180hp that's a crank figure, you're showing 179 at the wheels?) and keep the MAF plugged in. Verify it's the correct MAF (notjust the housing, remove the sensor and verify THAT is correct). I don't think your trims are due to a leak.

I was wondering if the file requires larger injectors and someone put stock back in before they sold the car to him.

I'd bet thats a tuned file, that surging is classic for poor tune.  I say leave everything the way it is and flash a known stock
file.

like 225 injectors, I also wonder if it has a 225 maf in a regular housing?

Just looked again at the vid of him testing the injectors. Those look like 225 injectors with the long stem!
He has the 180hp model so it makes sense for the trims in the negative if the maps weren't changed for the bigger injectors.


He changed the whole MAF twice with OEM replacements.

time to check part numbers on some injectors.. :-\

That car should have the long noozle, EV12 injectors bosch num. 0 280 155 897, But there not blue and most 225 cars have blue injectors stock.
I still want to know what part number maf was used?

Yes you are right! I got it backwards..Thank you a lot Revlimit !

OK people time to make some update

I did test runs with unplugged MAF.
the procedure was like this: I reset ecu and trims. Then I unplugged maf and did a test drive with vag-com.
LTFT gave me great values near 0%. But during this test ride my STFT was showing me 0% for all the time  ::)
After test I checked errors and got 2. First about MAF - so it's ok cause it was unplugged ;) and second with info that the car couldn't do Throttle body adaptation.
So I did a test again, but I changed the procedure a little.
I plugged MAF, then reset ecu and trims again THEN I did TB adaptation in block 060 and after that I unplugged maf for another test drive. Values were the same. Near 0% in LTFT and permanent 0% in STFT during whole drive.
After test I got only MAF error in ecu memory.
Then I plugged MAF, reset ecu and trims, did throttle body adaptation and did a test drive with plugged MAF. I got -18% LTFT after a few minutes of drive, and STFT was working and moving up and down the whole drive time.
What does it mean? I don't know. Maybe something, maybe nothing - you tell me ;)

What makes you think that my ecu is not stock? hmm what is wrong with the fact that my stock 180hb car gave 179hp when I checked it on dyno after I bought it? I don't get it :( I thought it looks like it should  :-\

Like I wrote before. I bought 2 factory new maf's for my car. I checked Maf number in AUDI ETKA part system with my VIN number. System shows that my car OEM MAF NUMBER is: 06A 906 461 D and this is the number that was on maf that I removed from my car. I bought a new bosh MAF with number 0 280 218 032 so this is the same part that should be in my car.
I bought it new and sealed and put in my car. I didn't open it to check sensor number but since it is a new product the sensor must be correct. To be 100% sure I will open maf tomorror and write you sensor number that is inside.

 
is it possible to check this option? I mean can I or someone from forum check my ecu file if it is stock or not?
Or maybe I can do some logs that will show if this isn't ecu for my stock 320 injectors ?

Like I said surge was there bacause of old and damaged OEM DV, after I replace dv surge was gone.
I don't have any other stock 180 hp TT ecu then mine on the car :/ :(

not possible since I bought a factory new maf for my car

I have stock ajq injectors. In fact I even had all 4 in hands to check resistance.
Part number from my injectors:
06a 906 031s

I also tried to do o2 sensor tests from this link I got in this topic.
I could only start the test procedure from block 030.
and then I couldn't continue cause I don't have needed blocks.
blocks like 034 , 036, 037, 043 and so on are not working on my system :/

Tomorrow I will also check 'hockey puck' valve - I will simply swap it to other one from TT with good trims values.

And LAST BUT NOT LEAST
many or you are also looking on my dyno graph here to get some ideas of my problem cause.
Like I said this is an old graph from days when I bought the car. I just add it to show that car was stock duo to showing car's hp on graph.
If it can help to look into my car and my car's ecu I'm adding my current graph.
This is the same car, with the same ecu + a few of mods I mentioned before:
forge TIP, forge 007 dv with cold side relo mod, FMIC with garrett core and forge valves, blueflame Catback exhaust, amsoil air filter
now you are free to comment my graph as much as you like :D ;)
(http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/2689/7j98.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/7j98.jpg/)

Pull your ecu file and post it. I will look at it immediately.

ecu in .bin  file in attachment
my ecu number is 8L0 906 018 J
car: audi tt 180hp quattro, ajq engine, year 2000

Stock file.

thanks
so looks like not many options left  >:(

Thank you, and now I'm back to the hockey puck as my final choice.
Just plug the puck and run the catch can open so I can know. ;D

what do you mena by this ?  ::)

Where the hose goes to the hockey puck from the catch can just take it off and plug the puck, or
take the puck out of the intake pipe and plug the intake, I think the first way is better. This is not a long term
thing just long enough for the fuel trim to change.

you'd be better off testing the system with an elbow to replace the hockey puck if you think you have to do it that way. In that case, If there is no change in the fuel trim then you know what's up. The way I explained to test for the hockey puck itself is way easier and quicker. If the hockey puck is still good then the fuel trim issue is elsewhere. The way it seems you explain it the crankcase would pressurize on boost.

I'm thinking he will find his hockey puck to be fine unless its the original. Mine was filthy when I checked it out before replacement. I also think that because he removed the line connecting the intake manifold to the PCV system, including a check valve in the process,(even though the port in the intake is plugged) might have something to do with the issue here. The hockey puck part was designed to work with a certain amount of vacuum/pressure during operation, with the connection removed between the intake and PCV maybe the pressure/vacuum difference from stock is enough to throw off the hockey puck's regulatory performance. But maybe not because the purpose of the checkvalve between the intake and PCV is to close when the intake is pressurized.

Okay people I'm back.
I did the easiest move to check hockey puck theory - I bought a new one from Audi.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img23/8577/9kqo.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/i/0n9kqoj/)

on the right - the old valve (034 129 101a), and on the left a new one - factory new (034 129 101b)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img707/1531/31mt.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/i/jn31mtj/)

unfortunately userpike was right - new part didn't solve the problem :(

like I wrote before - I have this problem since engine was 100% stock. I removed pcv system AFTER the problem appeared, so I'm sure that this is not the right track.

ANYONE any other ideas or opinions?
I'm adding csv log made in me7 so you can download it and check in ECUxPlot
+ this is the link with converted values from csv log :
http://vaglog.rtnet.pl/soulx666_135866.html

damn I'm starting to lose hope. The new turbo is on the way and I won't be able to swap it till I solve this trim problem

Injector and MAF part numbers would help.

If in doubt, return to stock inj and MAF.

injectors - stock
part number checked on all 4 is: 06a 906 031s

MAF - stock - bought factory new BOSCH
bosch number on my MAF: 0280 218 032

like someone asked I also opened MAF and checked sensor number inside
sensor number is: F 00  C2G 204 0
there is also one more number inside: 009203C

Everything in your file matches up with those part numbers. You have to have a massive air leak somewhere.

This may have been asked and answered previously, but have you checked adaptation channels?

Phila has a point, you didn't use a generic immo-off eeprom bin did you?

how should I do this ?

I don't even know what generic immo-off eeprom bin is ;)
I did no write moves with my ecu if this answer helps.
I only read my stock ecu so I can use me7 logger - that's all


I wrote and show on video in this topic how I am checking my system for leaks,
do you think I can miss a massive leak during this method? hmmm
I really don't know what to think about this situation

lemmiwinks can adjust ECU eeprom adaptations... not sure if anybody else has written a tool for it

unitronic has one as well.

This one works well also.

okay, thanks for files but what exactly do you want me to do ?
phila_dot wrote about checking adaptation channels,
and now you are writing about changing/adjusting adaptations

of course I can check it if I know how to do it,
but I don't think changing any values from stock sounds like a good idea as long as trims shows an unsolved issue   

Download unisettings, connect your cable, and launch the program. Select "select device" at the bottom, choose your cable, and hit "read from ecu". Post up the results here.

With Unisettings you can connect with your ORI VCDS also ,via USB , custom settings and Lemmi needs a COM port (virtual or not)

ok I will do it today

Ideally, if you are going to change any adaptation values, it would be to return them to stock...

I just did it
I have a print screen of data I got after I hit read ecu:
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8062/tj34.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/tj34.jpg/)
I also hit save to disk after I did print screen so I'm adding file I got after that

agree 100%. a vw tech told me he resets adaption values even for oil changes. so really any kind of maintenance, tune ups, part changes/upgrades, or whatever; you want to reset the adaption values to stock and let the ECU "relearn" the values on its own. Obviously, if you've tuned using the adaption values you would want to keep those settings. I don't think that is the case here though.

hit that "set defaults" button, erase DTCs and go for a drive.  you have the current settings saved, so no worries.

How many miles before you used Unisettings for this info did you reset adaptions values?

those all look like the defaults already...

Could the problem be solved?

I think i've a similar problem!

There are a million different reasons fueling might be out of whack.

Has any one thought of a failing turbo or valve seals ??? If the turbo or valve seals are leaking the burning oil will cause the O2 sensor to read rich. The burning oil will cause this problem. The the front O2 sensor will see it as a rich condition. It will not take much oil to cause this. You might not see the burning oil smoke if you have a cat.

Another thing ... What fuel are you running ? pump fuel ? track fuel ? E85 ? .... what about that DV ??? I have seen the Forge valve open up when driving aroun town causing rich conditions. What spring do you have in the DV ? If you pressure test the system with a Forge valve it will pass and will  show no leaks but when you drive around town the vacuum will open it up  and cause the mass Air sensor to read incorrectly.

Lee

Hey Lee,

thank you, my problem is:

LTFT: -10,8

STFT: -2,3 till +1,6


charge-air duct ckecked with 2Bar-> no leaks

DV -> new
N75 -> new
PCV -> new
Temperaturesensor -> new


If i driving full throttle my boost is pulsing (1,1 - 1,4 Bar)

Looks like leak... little, but consistent...

What are the long term fuel trims at idle and part throttle ? 

I've got Touque Pro app to log LTFT & STFT

The LTFT is steady at -10,8 maybe -12

and the STFT is moving at -1,2 to +1,6

idle and part are the same?

I want a screen shot of ( MVB ) meausuring bock 32 and 111.

@Nyet: In the Tourque Pro Android App i only have LTFT1 and this Value ist steady -10,8 and sometimes -12,..


@10101011: In the evening i will upload a screenshot!

Sorry guys,

litte late...


If i pump the break pedal the value in block 33/1 increase from -0.8 to +20,4 for short time!

in the boost gauge the needle increase from -0.8 to -0.6 while pumping.

I've checked the vacuum line to the brak booster with a compressor and found... nothing!



Sorry i missed the 111 block, so here it is:

1: -1,3%
2: -0,3%
3: 0%
4: 0%

intake leak post maf, pre-inlet

or bad MAF.

I am thinking the same as Nyet.   

Err. I take that back, metered air is missing, so pressure side, post turbo. Pressure test either way.

Sorry guys but pressure test with 2 bar was negative!

O2 sensors, MAF, EGT

Rear o2 is deleted, MAF is testet with diodetest, EGT i dont have!

The only thing is pre cat lambda, but the lambda regulition is disabled on full throttle, isn't it??

Brake servo pipes split, recommend you check them from inlet all the way back to the servo

I checked the vac  line to the brake booster, the silly pump and the other vac lines i have removed!

I got a vac line from the intake manifold over a check valve directly to the break booster

Is it a wideband car? If so, post logs. If not, get a wideband.

Yes, it's wideband! Nyet, can you help me to log the right blocks?

I got VisualME7Logger, in the evening i will do some logs.

Which values could be helpful to find out more about the problem?

Sorry guys for doubleposting, but could the rear o2 removing cause the problem with the negative fuel trim?

no, if you coded them out correctly.

and even if you didn't, I am unsure how you'd end up with a double digit trim.

it is my understanding that if you hear air rush when you pump the brakes along with idle changes and vacuum changes, the brake booster itself/lines/checkvalves has a leak. The brake booster should hold a vacuum during its test. I guess you could plug up the port  on the intake manifold used for the brake booster and see if trims change. It might be hard to stop though.  :P

Thank you guys,

i will test like userspike wrote.


@Nyet: I've forget to set CLRSKA to zero, because i don't have the right adress for ist in my 0032FC XDF.

So if anybody have the adress please post!

I'm not sure if it's been asked or checked already, but have you checked the TIP (Turbo Inlet Pipe) from the MAF to the turbo?

Mine managed to get a hefty split in it where the PCV piping plugged into a while ago.

hi spacey3,

yes, the inlet pipe is checked already.

Guys,

i thank you for your time!

The new DV was faulty, i bought a new 710N (S3) DV. Now i've testet a 710P (RS6) DV from friend and now my LTFT is +-1,6%

I've been following this thread since the beginning. Just to cap it, all 8 pages, and the problem was a faulty DV? :)

my problem was since 2 pages  :P