NefMoto

Hello. How much boost can make a K03 and a K03S turbocharger? My default map has about 1765 mbars (~0.7 bar boost). Now i`m running with about 1 bar boost at sea level and my goal is 1.3.
Here i`m talking about peak values at high rpm.

Most stage 1 files do 1.45-1.5 @ peak with the default WG

Stage 1 means how much bhp?
Will hold a K03 this boost without blowing up?
I`ve read that ~20 psi is best that K03 can do without damaging.

Hi,

I set the below boost profile in Stage 1+ software with K03s

3000 1.5
4000 1.8
5000 1.4
6000 1.25
7000 1.1
MAF counts 202-205g/sec

You will need 380cc or bigger injectors
MAF case S3 is optional
NA intake cam is optional
IC is a MUST
full 63.5mm exhaust (70mm dp is an option but will cost you to loose some low end torque)

I prefer the installation of a new wastegate actuator with a much higher preloaded spring (mechanical boost @ 0.85bar is fine)


In the dyno I follow this boost profile I wrote earlier
dyno car specs
WG aftermarket
injectors
MAF case S3
NA intake cam
IC
Forge intake hose
Forge 007 DV
100oct
software optimized for 100oct

Thank you for your reply. i don`t want to spend too much money on the car. i want only to take best from current hardware.
How much bhp can get from this profile with stock injectors:
3000 1.4
4000 1.6
5000 1.3
6000 1.2
7000 1.1
All this with stock turbo (on my engine code was both K03 and K03S, so i`m not really sure wich i have fitted).

with 100oct fuel optimization

stock inj & stock fpr
215hp

stock inj & 4bar FPR
245-250hp

You cannot run this boost profile you said with stock inj. At least you will need a 4bar fpr

Ok, so, for stock injectors and 3 bar FPR what`s the most agressive setup that you recommend? But for 4 bar fpr?

I have already replied before in this question!

i swear that i'm not trying to be an ass with my response here, i'm totally serious:
everyone that has asked this question has ended up replacing their turbo sooner than later.

Yep. Matches my experience as well. Also, the kind of person who asks is invariably the same kind of person who ignores the responses.

He's right.

I'm convinced mine is about to throw it's toys out the pram.  It doesn't boost cleanly now, and surges really badly.  Replaced usuals - N75 (it was showing a low duty cycle), plugs, coils, MAF.

Actuator moves cleanly.  Was going to pick up a K03s hybrid done by Dan on here, but didn't have the funds.  Decided that I'll make it look pretty, and make it go fast in the summer.

I`m pretty sure you are wrong about me :)
My other car is an Opel Astra G with turbo diesel engine. The turbo was hybrid (failed in a saturday night and all that i had was few turbos from Volvo and Vw, but that`s another story). i`ve made one turbo from parts i had and worked fine for 6 months when i`ve replaced with OEM turbo that i`ve picked up from a friend for free.

I know what is a surge and a lot of theory. In daily manner i`m a programmer and on weekends i`m a mechanic (repair failed engines).

Reason why i`ve asked fotis what he recomments is that i know he knows way much about those engines/turbos than me and i want to make a clean map for my engine, but same time to have enaugh extra performance.
To achieve my goal i want to start from original map and increase performance almost at the upper limit with stock internals because 402m racings are not my goal.

If someone told you that with this boost profile the turbo will live for 100.000+, then he is a terrible lier.
No doubt that your turbo will be killed 50.000klm with hard use, and may be earlier

What is WG crack pressure for this turbo with stock spring?

What do you mean by crack pressure? Point of failure?

No, the point at which it opens..

Will try this boost profile for beginning:
3000 1.25
4000 1.3
5000 1.2
6000 1.1
7000 1.0
If encounter too much knock will lower boost a little untill will get new injectors or new FPR.

I`ve opened a new topic few days ago. You can make me suggestions there because this topic i want to keep only for turbo limits: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=4600.0title=

You've sorted fuelling first, right?

The point at which WG starts to open.
They say its about 5 psi.

No, because for now i`ll let BTS untouched, so if i`ll add bosst ecu should compensate fueling. If i`ll encounter knock too early be sure i`ll change fueling a little, but in my country a dyno is not a cheap thing. In my city for example is only one dyno, but not for 4x4 and my car is quattro. Also, is not so cheap (~125 USD 2 runs). When will get new injectors and maybe a gt2781 to replace actual turbo (this will be probably next year).
I know the difference from turbo diesels and turbo gasoline is big. On diesels if you fail will smoke like hell. On gasoline if you fail will end up with another engine in most of cases. I`m aware of that. That`s reason why i`ve asked about max boost on this type of turbo

so you will leave your engine run at 0.69 lambda? lol
1.1 @ 6000
1.0 @ 7000

You need at least 4bar FPR to work on these pressures at these RPM

I`ve looked into BTS table and as i remember the smallest lambda was 0.74. Of course i`ll not let that lambda, but for now i want to have a rough picture of boost.
My LAMFA table has values like 1.95, so i think is setup with BTS fueling from factory.

So you have narrowband management system 400bb
check AFR with wideband from tailpipe

I have a 18CH ECU from an AWT engine. As i know, that engine has come with wideband lambda. If i replace my ecu with that one and make wiring changes to fit the wideband (and of course, change my lambda sensor with required one) will work properly or i need to simulate second lambda sensor?
And i have a lambda sensor from an Audi A8. I think that is wideband too. May i use that to measure lambda on  exhaust pipe?

Have you read the wiki yet?  I've spent over a day on this forum just reading, trying to get a good understanding of how it all works, and I've only just managed to get one.

Spend hours reading through the people that know's post - along with one of the guys in the UK who is the "god" in tuning the 1.8t's, just to see his methods. 

Only now, have I got enough of an understanding to see how fueling should go, and when.  Read the Wiki, it's key.  Fuel first, then boost.  Get fueling wrong, and you'll likely melt something.

I've read that so many times I know it off by heart now!

Yes, I`ve read wiki few times and also read ME7 doc.
This topic was an "upper limit" question.

Maybe this topic should be renamed to "How much tune accepts factory hardware" and extend discussion to internals and other engine-related stuff.

I agree 100% that fueling is very important and have the battle scars from that lesson BUT think about it logically if you are running stock boost levels and you adjust fueling you are only going to have to retune fueling when you change your boost anyway. I agree that if you have changed hardware etc then starting with fueling makes sense and I am not advocating increasing the boost to stupid levels and not catering for that fuel wise either. To me increasing boost slowly logging and adjusting fueling/timing makes more sense then adjusting fueling, then increasing boost then going back redoing your fueling.... I am probably totally wrong here but thats just my logic.

So uh, is anybody going to suggest taking a look at the K03 compressor map?

That would make too much sense. LDRXN=250, DIMX=95

DO WORK.

From my calculations, at 2.4 compression ratio (upper limit where extra work is transformed into heat) will have an airflow of 0.12m^3/s. That means 153.6g/s.
At 6000 rpm we have 3000 strokes per minute (50/sec). So that quantity of air should be enaugh to burn over 100mg of fuel (3.072g/stroke).
with an AFR of 11 theoretically should burn 3072/11 mg of fuel. That`s pure theoretically, without taking looses of heat and fuel + air temperature that makes air less dense.
Is that correct?

At 6000 rpm, you're way off the compressor map at PR 2.4

I'd aim for something closer to 2.1 or 2.2

2.2 means ~0.11m^3/s (~140g/s).
At 6000 rpm means 2.8 grams of air per stroke.
It should be enaugh for burning a lot of fuel.

Is there an calculator for inputing rail pressure, injectors CC and requested load in order to calculate actual injected quantity and injector opening time?
If not, what is the formula for this specific one?

I`ve found on ebay some China-made turbos at ~200 USD. I know a BMW with such a turbo that works fine from 3 years now (mostly on drag racing, but is a daily driver car too). What do you say about those? Also, a friend recommended me a modified K04 turbo that is rated for ~500 bhp. price for that is about $500. Also, that firiend has some 700cc injectors that will give to me, so probably will need new pistons and rods and a new turbo for those ones :)