NefMoto

Hey gents. Trying to learn this stuff such that I can rework a 20011.8t AWW into a 90 Corrado.
Engine is in, and wiring ruffed into locations and I turned my attention to the Bosch 7.5 ecu.
Purchased this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271304445606?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
To do the ecu work and was able to use it on another, intact jetta via the obd2 port and vagcom 409.1 to reset some auto trans issues but it never ran auto scan successfully, coming back with to many comm errors..
When I installed the USB dongle, I didn't install anything beyond the little set up disk it came with.
So now I want to read, and save my bin file to do the immo, sai, and evap deletes, if I can figure out how.
When I connected with argdubs software, I get a cable error, no echo, etc and no luck.
So I read more and see that you are maybe supposed to load specific ftdi drivers and such, so I install m-prog and try to read my cable. No good, and I'm left scratching my head..
Ordered another dongle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281288095104?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
But I thought I bought the right one first..
Anyway, any tips, or links to threads I missed,, gratefully appreciated..
I read the wiki, I am a mechanically inclined guy, and I mistakenly thought the actual, physical swap would be the hard part.... This binary stuff is just, intangible to my old hands..and I thought I was a pc savy guy..
Thanks again.

In device manager, under ports, find your cable. What manufacturer is listed in properties?

mfgr is FTDI. Location USB high speed serial converter.
Driver provider FTDI, ver; 2.8.30.0

So based on the info in device mgr, do I have the correct cable? Should I maybe pull off the cover and check the board?  Are you supposed to manually add drivers.
Thx gents.

The cable appears right as long as it's not a bundled galletto cable. As for the drivers, the newest FTDI drivers are fine. Does the cable show up in nefmoto at all?

I connected just the cable to my pc running the nefmoto me7 flasher logger 1.9.3.2
Se,ected both kwp2000 and boot mode, ran through all baud choices and refreshed device each time and it did not see the cable.
Do I need to be connected to a car to read/test the cable?
Thnks,

So I tried to use the program, and cable connected to my 2000 jetta 2.0 as well as stand alone and no luck. Doesn't seem to connect.
With this cable I can use vag com 409.1 to read my tranny, it wont read engine and comes back 'to many communication errors to continue', but I thought that could be the car itself as it was a bit of a dog when I bought it.
I set the dumb mode, and kwp-2000 on within vagcom and saved it before exiting, but nothing in either slow init, fast init, or bootmode.
Wish someone was close enough to watch over their shoulder. I feel I'm missing something obvious. I've been a pc guy since windows 3.0 and predate the internet. This should be doable by me,,,, grrrrrrrrrrrrrr ???
Thanks all, rant is over.

So I have to assume my cable is crap since it isn't seen in the nefmoto software, or m-prog, despite the advertising.
Or I'm an idiot that is doing something fundamentally incorrect.
Tried to read my other jetta, no good either, but as I said, I can connect via vag com 409.1 to some extent.
So when the new cable arrives I will try to read the cable via nefmoto, then try to read my jetta via the obd2 connection and nefmoto. Then I will be rady to actual work on the ecu that has started all this in the first place.
Now regarding that one, its an 01 Wolfsburg turbo going into a Corrado. My harness will allow for proper obd2 connection in the Corrado.
I have to disable the immo, sai, evap, and asr in the ecu to work in the Rado.
I would like to re identify the vin to match the 90 Corrado as well, but not a must.
Would it be better to put the ecu in the car, and try to pull the bin and such through the obd or just go right to opening the cover and doing boot mode, since it is out at the moment?
I did try once already on the bench, and that's when I realized I have cable issues.
Thanks for any advise.
Mike.

Uninstall the old drivers (and check the box to delete them) and then manually intall the newest FTDI drivers.

Well that was a key step DD for certain.
Uninstalling and manually upgrading to 2.10.0.0 has enabled my cable to be read by nefmoto and m-prog.
It now shows up as a ft232r usb uart in the device drop down menu at 38400 baud!
So now I'm going to try and copy my jetta 2.0 ecu program, just to test.
That works, I'm going to retry my bootflash set up and argdubs software.
Still unsure if those two programs copy the same file, a bin file I believe, just through different means.
First real positive step in this ecu adventure. Been a good day. Got my fmic kit, and now progress on the ecu work..
May still get this car project completed..
Thanks for the tips again!!

Glad to hear you're having luck.

There are two types of memory in your ecu.

One is the flash that nefmoto/galletto read
One is the eeprom that argdubs tool reads.

Just tried the nefmoto flasher in the 2.0. I tried to connect in both fast nd slow init sequences, but I have no memory layout for ec maps installed yet so presume it can't read the flash until then.
My goal being immo and sai and such I think I will focus on the eeprom for now as that's the bin I need to edit to fix all those I believe yes? The flash is for tuning and optimizing said tune once the car is running once more?
I'll get to the tuning later. The original jetta tune worked awesome, in the jetta..
 Cheers..

IMMO yes, SAI no.

Well, still get the " no echo from cable" error 0x07.
I selected dumb mode in vag com before closing it but no change.
I wonder, when this is hot wired up, should the blue light on the dongle come on when you flip the switch?
For my set up, I'm using a battery charger,connected to a battery and taking the juice and grounds from that set up, running the power for both dongle, and ecu switched from the same switch. Should only the ecu be switched? Grounds all bundled together back to the negative post, and therefore negative on the charger.
Pin 7 on dongle to 43 on the ecu for k line comm. power to 3 and 62, both switched on the ecu,
16 on the dongle, also switched.
Grounds are pins 1 on the ecu and 4,5 on the dongle, all connected, as well as the jumper ground for 24 on the chip.
Was hopeful I was there.
Thanks.

You must also power pin21 on the ME7.5 ecus :)

I had success and now have a bin file on my c drive!!
Almost anti-climatic it went so fast.
So now, to figure out how to attach it on here for other viewing pleasure?
I understand thanks to replies, that this will just get me into the eeprom via hex editing to eliminate immo, but I will still have to pull the flash to get into the other functions, but very cool.
Can i use this configuration to pull my flash instead of waitng till its back in the car? pull my flash in bootmode, as it were?
Thanks for the help senior members.. Teaching an old dog new tricks..

So my ecu is a Bosch 06A 906 032 DL
Benzin me7.5 c2-3 0003

Do I need to install memory layouts and ecu maps prior to reading and copying my flash?
Should I be getting out my loupe to read chip numbers and such?
Thx a million..

Went ahead and tried to use my set up and nefmoto with power on, but not in boot mode.
Was able to read ecu in slow init, read dtc's and save them, read and save the 4 ecu entries, hardware number, software, calibration date, and equipment, all in standard session.
Switched to programming session and hit precondition issues with immo not authenticated, so I cancelled.
Not sure yet what I saved and what I need, but it works,, now to work with it..
I assume I need to disable immo and re flash that before this next step will work?
Cheers.

Am I missing something?
I have read on the wiki's the syntax I'm looking for to view and or edit my sai, evap values, but don't know how to get things to open in tunerpro, just hex editor.
I have the boot bin immo'd out thanks to member Marty, and I was able to read and save my original flash with help from turb, as well as DDillenger and other thread I read along the way. Thanks for the help on the above.
But it looks like the definition files are required to map my flash in english? Tuner Pro looks to be able to read the XDF from the ecu, but when I load the saved bin file it always asks for the location of the XDF on my C drive, which I don't have yet.
I'm almost ready to try to start this car, have buttoned up the ecu itself and am jut firming up it's location in the rain tray.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14445366267_6123cf7057_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15134541@N05/14445366267/)
home 017 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15134541@N05/14445366267/) by mikeb52@rogers.com (https://www.flickr.com/people/15134541@N05/), on Flickr
Any help, yet again, is gratefully appreciated in pointing me down the right path.
Cheers.

There are different versions of the software and all may not match. Use this one with this xdf.

Thanks yet again sir. :)
I will make a copy right away and start to learn.
Is this bin the stock one you gave me in another post or is this the one I pulled from my ecu? Just asking because it really worked well on the car before I pulled the engine.
Appreciate the help. Giving me the tools to help myself.
Thanks.Scratch the above question, I see them both in tuner pro and am running comparison, it looks like you gave me my original.
Thanks again.
Will be a late night playing now I can see. Looking at the scalers now, CDATS is set to zero, CDATR as well. I see my vnmx is different than stock, TNMXH as well.
Cool..

Got the rest of the wiring installed today, and the ecu as well.
Tried plugging in via the new obd2 connector in the car and good to go.
Vag read my engine and showed some codes. Then I tried nefmoto and was able to poll the ecu information so think I'm good there too!
Awesome.. ;D

Hi, been playing with tunerpro and my bin file today instead of working.
As per below I have opened my hex editor to get to MSLUB (0x1A968) and see it's a value of 06 currently. Do I change that to 00 to get my readiness to pass?
And as from the scaler drop downs in tunerpro do I just change the values on CDSLS and CWKONABG to 0.0 as well? CDSLS is already at 0.0, ABG is 5.0.
Any checksum worries if I change the fields?
And regarding Evap, as per the wiki I should be looking for the following: CDLDP - Eurobyte - LDP Diagnosis, CDTES - Eurobyte - EVAP diagnosis, CLATEVE - EVAP plug, or CLALDPE - LDP plug but I don't see anything with those scaler names.
Hopefully I will be able to edit the above and be in a position to start the car this week.
Thanks again for all the help..
Mike

Assuming you have oil and coolent, I'd go ahead and start the car up,troubleshoot the install before you get too worried about the map - and this way you know any issues you have are due to the install/wiring/engine, rather than a software change you've messed up.

Mine has done 400 miles with the n80, lambda 2, etc codes on, going pretty nicely so far :)

Any pics of the rest of the project btw? I've been toying with fitting my spare AGU into a corrado, always wanted one and never quite managed to scratch that itch.

Good call on that, so I tried to turn her over tonight. She turned over, but did not start. :(
I think there may still be some wiring amiss at the fuse panel. When I first turned the key there was a relay buzzing rather sickly which didn't make that noise before. Also  there are a few wires still cut from the fusebox I was hoping were redundant, but maybe not.
If I pull my dtc's now, will they help to pinpoint why I have no spark yet? Clutch switch isn't connected yet either but I thought she would idle without that.
I have posted the saga on this car on
http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109394#109394 (http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109394#109394)
Very close to being reborn, but not quite there.. I replaced my spark loom while she was out as the wires were quite brittle and opted to use splices instead of pulling right to the pins, hope I didn't f--k that up.. First the obvious stuff though before I go worst case in my head..
Thanks for the help along the way, and any tips to troubleshoot from here.
Cheers.

Defo worth pulling the fault codes, post them up and I'll take a look in the morning. How have you wired it? Spliced the donor loom into the corrado fuseboard? Is your fuel pump powering up? If you stick some volts up the ecu switched bus (that powers stuff like the fuel pump, lambda, etc) you should be able to hear the fuel going through the lines under the bonnet.

Auq will run without clutch switch, assume yours will too.

Really, really appreciate the help Turboat. Owe you and Dillenger a test drive, and a cold beer. ;D
I purchased a swap loom from Dave at Stancedubs in Montreal that ran between the original mk4 engine loom and the back of the corrado fuseblock, replacing fuse bundles F, G1, and G2. It spliced into the white, black and orange connectors on the mk harness, a new cable was also supplied for between the dbw peddle and the blue harness connector. Is a very slick harness, but I had to cut a few other wires on the fuseblock to fully disconnect those three. I think one must have been a main power still. Just finished pulling the codes, see below text;
Monday, 14 July 2014, 18:30:48

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S



Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 DL

  Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0003

           Software Coding: 07500

            Work Shop Code: WSC 66565

15 Faults Found:

17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

        P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (usually temp Sensor or Thermostat)

        P1296 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17645 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit

        P1237 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17647 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Open Circuit

        P1239 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17648 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Open Circuit

        P1240 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17646 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Open Circuit

        P1238 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low

        P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High

        P0238 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small

        P1543 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low

        P1172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started

        P1579 - 35-00 - -

17072 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit: (J271): Open

        P0688 - 35-00 - -

18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller

        P1649 - 35-00 - -

18058 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Instrument Cluster

        P1650 - 35-00 - -

17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Implausible Signal

        P1523 - 35-00 - -

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm hoping a lot of these will go away once she actually runs, no airbags, and I know the coolant lines are still open as Im waiting for a new electric fan, but those first ones sure point to a main miss on either the fusepanel, or the block side of the wiring.
Again, any help in where I should be looking, gratefully appreciated.

Ok, hit clear codes, see what comes back, try and start it, then see what comes back. You often get a stack of phantom codes when you first wire stuff up.

My bet is you are missing the feed that powers up the injectors, fuel pump etc. dumb question - are you sure you have all the earths connected?

btw, the y pipe coming off the manifold is the vaccume pip that goes to the brake servo, if you have to extend it, make sure you use suction hose. It'll run like crap if you leave that open, at least bung it up for testing.

Happy to help out, if I'm passing anytime I'll take you up on that beer :) Canada is pretty small, right?  ;)

Rechecked my grounds and general routing. I did miss a ground on one of the bundles near the battery and reconnected it.
I cleared my codes and tried to start again, no luck. Rechecked my codes and they are all gone except ECM power relay load circuit, p0688 and throttle actuator adaptation not started.
So, I go back pull more covers and look some more. There is a single purple/black wire on a connector that connects to a single red/white wire under the battery, that was connected, but not clicked tight.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14471302330_01c3eb9d14_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15134541@N05/14471302330/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15134541@N05/14471302330/) by mikeb52@rogers.com (https://www.flickr.com/people/15134541@N05/), on Flickr
I think, that's it and reconnect it tight, still won't start. Now when I retry to run my codes it can't connect. I try nefmoto, it won't connect either.. WTF, I disconnect the single connector I just reconnected and vagcom reconnects but same two codes. Too dark and to frazzled for tonight. But something is still not right..
Cheers.
Edit: that purple wire goes to the coil pack, white/red one from the harness and I presume 12vdc. Weird that when its connected I can't read my ecu.

Hey guys you know what makes great divorces like great running cars? Good grounds.
Seems one in the rain tray still had paint enough to really give a high impedance to my ecu main cable when I started ohming stuff out tonight. Long story short, she runs.
http://youtu.be/CWSOSpxpMAE (http://youtu.be/CWSOSpxpMAE)
Next up is figuring out why the alternator isn't putting out a charge and wait for my slim electric fan to arrive. Then I can get the exhaust done and replace the o2 sensors and clear codes once more and really stat to talk tuning.
Thanks for the help along the way..

Excellent news! Surprised you had a bad earth due to the paint, usually I just get wire blindness and miss an earth  :-\

Check the blue altenator exciter wire is on the correct terminal on the altenator, often there are two terminals, often only 1 works.

That big purple/black wire is the terminal 30 feed to the ECU, etc, should be fed by an ecu controlled relay. Im guessing you've got it plugged back in now, fairly sure they dont run without it.

hey, just finished having the exhaust done tonight. Went 3" to the cat, 2 1/2" the rest of the way back to a nice magnaflow ss muffler and proper tip for my bumper.
Reconnected my lambda sensors and have the remaining codes to deal with.

17072 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit: (J271): Open

        P0688 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (J271): Open

        P0685 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit

        P1426 - 35-00 - -

Took her out for a drive and she's very peppy, to put it mildly.
Not sure how many more IC hoses are going to pop off as I didnt tighten any of them enough evidently cause 2 popped off so far, hehe, lots of boost, yes.
So I will be reading and trying to learn all I need, to map out the perfect settings for the different configuration I now have this engine in. I'm sure she was mapped out for the jetta very well and want to do the same for this lighter car with better cooling and airflow.
cheers.