NefMoto

hey guys - i have an amd stage 3 tune which i love.  it has ev14 550cc injectors, m-box hitachi conversion in a 85mm maf housing, rear o2's deleted, egt's deleted, and its setup for 91-octane here in the pacific northwest.  the car spikes to 24 psi and holds 22 psi and runs pretty strong. so whats my issue?

i want to start tracking the car at driver's school and i don't want this type of pressure on the engine, turbos, brakes, or chassis.  more power = more demanding, certainly we all agree on that.  i literally want to run the stock m-box adjusted for these four details during actual track sessions:

1) 85mm m-box hitachi
2) bosch ev14 550cc
3) rear o2 delete
4) egt delete

i'm posting because i'm not real confident in how to pull this off...  any suggestions are appreciated, but i have to admit i'm pretty nervous about it - and hence my post.  if anybody could help me or steer me in the right direction to pull this off i'd be very grateful!

my thought was to start with tony's stage 3 file, but i'm not real clear on what needs to be changed to switch the deka60 to ev14's.  i'm assuming i will have to buy tunerpro?

thanks everyone!

Probably the easiest thing would to add a manual boost controller - you could adjust that to run less boost for track as and when needed.

Have you tried lowering the SEL scaling with lemmiwinks?  This may be the easiest solution if you feel you absolutely need to go WOT with lower boost.

As far as reliability - if your car is in good working order I would not be too concerned.  I have run several events in 115-120 degree heat here @ 24psi.  I have run sessions longer than 40 minutes and I have not had any issues other than overheating tires and brakes when driving in anger.  Obviously our cars/tunes are different so ymmv. 

My advice is to not mess with the tune but instead use your right foot for throttle control - you will learn that binary throttle inputs are a no-no anyway, so modulating the throttle everywhere is actually a good exercise for you.  Remember, it's a track day - you are not racing.

If you want more info on tracking these cars, let me know.  :)

Jason,

slight topic hi jack but I tracked the S4 at the Nurburgring recently and was a touch dissapointed.  Huge straight line speed but lack of high speed stability.

I did a session on the grand prix track too, and managed to spin it! Luckily lots of run off there.

There is zero understeer and lots of gripo just a lack of control - the car felt too soft.  I think this is mainly due to the Eibach pro street being too soft.  Looking at some PSS9's or AST's to replace them with, what do you think?

Rick

wow - thanks for the suggestion.  i should probably learn lemmiwinks at least to understand the basics of me7 tuning...

i'm getting some kind of throttle-cut or timing-retard, so i need to log to figure out what is causing that.  the vagcom logging is total crap...   what do people use?  vagcom cable + apr's software?

Yes, but VAGCOIM should still help in identifying what is happening.  Check your correction factors, check your throttle plate angle, check your requested and desired boost,

By correction factors, do you mean:  a) throttle adaptation b) LTFT c) STFT?

ignition retard per cylinder

thanks alot man... i'll look into all of those things and attempt to recreate the problems i've been experiencing during fairly normal driving...

is the APR logging tool worth the money?  it seems like it might be...

not really, it's not supported anymore and i don't think it's available.  Tony is bringing something out soon, so wait for that.

FWIW I disagree. ECUx right now is the only real game in town.. Not that I dont trust Tony, but I wouldn't wait for it (or depend on it) until its had a chance to be debugged and used a lot.

Where in the Pacific NW are you, I have ecux and would be happy to help you out but I live up in Bellingham.

portland...   haha far away!

Oops, sorry I missed this.  I think it's an alignment issue.  You probably need more toe in.  


1) toe OUT makes the car turn in very sharply, but makes the car unstable at speed.  Short tracks and autocrossing are good for 0 toe or toe out.x

2) toe IN makes the car turn in very soft, but makes the car stable at speed.  This is better for long tracks and highways where the car tramlines.


Does the high speed stability get worse as you brake?  How much caster are you running?  Do you have adjustable upper control arms?  

If the car stays reasonably flat, doesn't understeer during transitions (direction changes via steering input), I'd say leave it alone and add some toe in.  Too much toe in and it will feel boring.  Not enough and the car will dart around.