NefMoto

Is there a set intake/charge air temp at which the ecu pulls timing?  50c? 75c? 100c? Or is it a more linear change?

I think KFZWWLNM is your answer

I guess I'm wondering at what point is intake temp too high?   Debating water/meth.

20deg C over the ambient.
Every 10degC lowering your IATs is about 3% gain in power.

:)

10* over ambient.  Ouch. On a 65*f night one log showed a peak of 79*C. Then the 2nd. Maybe 5 minutes apart showed a peak of 100*C.   Well then. My ko3s isn't dead yet.  Now the debate.  Fmic. Or water meth injection. Fmic will be a good all around all the time mod for slightly cooler intake temps. But it seems the people that have gotten the most out of their ko3s have used water meth. Cooler intake charge. Higher octane. Hmmm..

100degC????
U sure??
That is ridiculously high.
That car has to be soaked as hell.
Oem coolers?

100*c is what my log showed. Stock intercooler. Correct. So I know it's not as efficient as it should be.  Daily driving logs it's fine. Just when I run past 5k rpm in 4th gear.  Which I don't do too often. Need to get the couplers for my intercooler.

Buy yourself a couple of SRMs. Problem solved.

Don't bother with WI until you've tried better ICs ...

Toyosports cooler off ebay.  Type B.   600x300x76mm.  proven to be one of the best on the market.

Pull your boost back a touch.  you cant flow enough to make engine efficient.  Probably better off lowering boost a few psi and keeping intake temps controlled making more efficient power.

Definitely a good call with extreme IATs. KFTARX et al ...

Las Vegas Nevada. 110 degree ambient. End of a WOT run on a regular K04 car can see 180F.

So nasty.

With ambient of 88-100° with XSpower SMIC's, A6 no grills and kept scoops and 20psi to 13psi taper here in FL I see 110° on highway and up to 180ish on WOT pull. I really wanted to get a w/m before summer ended but looks like I'll wait cooler air is on the way. Will log again when weather breaks and see how much the intercooler upgrade might have helped over last year's logs.

The SSAC IC's are worse than stock. Only benefit is they don't blow the tanks.

I'll be putting the fmic on here shortly.  Last time I was going to I didn't have the right couplers. And I had to use a 90 going to my throttle body and after one pull it broke at 15 psi. So ill have to buy a few more new couplers. That aren't cheap ebay ish ones.

Whats the flaw in the design of the newer styled cheap side mounts?? They use a stand core, yes they don't leak at all. But from what I read on Audizine they aren't anything of a upgrade really which idk why they redesigned them if it wasn't for a good reason. The old design seems to be what the test results have been on and the old ones where gross in design (core, end tanks).

Idk how much testing has been done on the newer style but 10 bars vs. 14 (bar & plate core) used in the ones they based new design (COPIED) off of I don't see many differences and I'd say there decent at cooling in better weather then summer time. But back in 70* weather I was seeing 90* or so on WOT pulls a few times and even lower at other times. Is this not a normal temp deference for a intercoolers? I notice a difference on how and where I place the hoses so flow is issue on them withe the bottle necking but all and for $200 there still a cheap insurance, logs of new style would have to show any chance of a upgrade.

Unless your going to a higher flowing water to air side mount intercooler. I doubt that any side mount is going to be a good " upgrade" 

What are you talking about??
Just about any intercooler is way better then S4 stock coolers.
There is million logs out there too prove it.
Hell, i uppgraded on my old S4 from stock to RS (which are really not that good either) and it was way lower IATs etc...
On my Big ports SRMs, i have never seen temps over 55degC standig and Ideling for a 10-20 min.
When i start driving it does not take more then a short period of time and my IATs are low.

I'm not worried about idling temps.. 

I agreed 100%.

You have to make the SMICs work by forcing air into them.  Solid duct from the bumper to the core and not allow the air to pass round the cooler from their tilted design.  Also, a exit for the cooled air to exit the wheel arch area.

Having a setup with no intercooler shrouds and no exit for the air is basically turning the intercooler into a radiator you find in your house.

The point is heat soak. That is the worst case scenario for coolers. Hot car ideling, no chanse of wind too cool it down.