NefMoto

I've tried differing posts to solve a non starting vehical and my efforts have lead to this try. I need to know 'something' alike to resetting the ecu or rewriting its internal program, it may also apply to the immo(not possible?).
    The reason being to scratch another faultless item of my van off of its immobile list.*
This centers around the vans inability to start FROM a faulty/flattish battery casting a spell on the electrics somehow. Somehow being the point...whatever ticks IN the ecu or immo - this was picked up by vagcom as a intermittent fault com error and needed to remeet/match the two together again. Which to the untrained eye but not my surprise happened, but then it hasn't started from around that time, probably not coincidental, which lead me to fix all distributor components.$$

So you might see this problem or you see a noob. Reset was suggested to be disconnect battery, another to tap + 10 times to activate a reset? Is there a real way to tell the ecu (if there's time the immo as both seem tied in to thinking for the van) to reset? How do I do this please?

Van is: vw 2.0 1997 7da t4 petrol man. 2nd gen immo or ecu? Every thing checked so far is in working order so it may be plain to see.

         *A post put it kindly as y2k but really a reboot/read programing problem _ looped!?!


A nice point would be to know how to recognize  broken it may be, or is that a testers job.???

HELLO, HELLO IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE¡!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

What error codes do you get when it won't start?

Nil

The immo needed connecting to the ecu but once done there is no error codes to mention of, the only ones got cleared eg airbag, sensor. Nothing since.

Nada.

Can a faulty ecu (engine management) be this quiet?.

I've checked a lot of items on a list of possibilities and everything checks a green box, other things need a professional. No spark is the latest-after changing hall sensor, rotor, cap_ checked current of coil and ignition switch, cleaned idle regulator, throttle, adjusted throttle switch, recharged batt, fuel pump+filter, thermal sensor tests, vacume tube replacements, vagcom lite registered test............this is ongoing until SOMETHING is wrong.

It only leaves immo and ecu .... How do I check them?

WELL ITS GOT ME BEAT, ALL PARTS LEADING TO IMMO,ECU WILL BE REPLACED UNTIL THEY GET REPLACED. WHY VAGCOM CANT SEE THIS IS dum!

Got spark/fuel/compression?

Fuel pump powering up? Immo is usually start then die.

All good, emptied tank to check connection with pump.
Anything I've touched so far works.

The system can't get a virus can it?

I mean when you are trying to start the engine, are the plugs firing and is fuel getting into the cylinders?

No virus

No.


No spark ,no firing.
New hall sender rotor cap, tested/cleaned sparky ,leads ,ignition coil, ignition lock and switch (2nd hand, getting new any day now)...rotor turns, cranks good, recharged battery. No spark though....

No virus is good news, means I can rely on the info inside both units.
The immo wouldn't JUST shut the door and stop the starting of the vehical would it?. It sounds like it won't feed anything when ignition turns to start...

Standard immo normally lets engine start and then kills it, don't know about immo 1 thou. Do you have an aftermarket alarm immo fitted?

No nothings added to stock system, and further tests this week found elec. IS getting past the ignition transformer (coil), although this significance lost with no knowledge of how to use the multimeter on sophisticated electrics_ but I can learn.
The numbers were like this 15.5 ignition on, 10.0 cranking. As long as there was a current.

1. Immo _ Do you mean a 'last gasp' before never working again. That happened. Happening. I'd just stalled at startup which included a noisey raspy sound of the immo resetting. Stopped starting like it is now, then somehow I got it going again went for a spin and to this day won't start again. At this time I re-met the immo to the ecu like vgs said, but that was kind of clicky anyway.
    Is that KILLING my van?? >:( or its more kind, only allows to start and then splutters to a stop. Similar to a unknown key)

I've read a blog about removing the immo, what is the safe procedure electrically/programmably.

Conclusion, apart from the initial symptoms being the same (flattish battery, rough idle etc, stopped) options left seem to point only at immo,ecu and battery current_by that I mean is voltage changed before starting? The others a involved somehow.

If that sounds plausible.

Normally if there is an issue with the immo, the van will start and run for a second or two, then die. Defo for immo 2/3, don't know about yours which is probably immo1 (what year is it?)

Have you checked the cambelt/cam timing? I would suspect one of the relays - get the wiring diagram and your multimeter and check you have power on all the pins you should, etc.

If not, send the ecu off to the ecu doctor, get them to check it and remove the immo at the same time. It's rare but not unheard of for these ecu's to fail.

OH thank GOD !!

Because its really dead.

Removing the immo....(means the entire dashboard!!)

It can stay dead.

Bye.

Immo on t4 is easy to remove, remove the binnacle around the cluster which is like 2 screws. Remove the cluster, which is like another 2 screws, immo box should be on the left...probably another 2 screws. But it's probably not the immo :)

 ??? :o ;D ::) :'( ??? :o ;D ::) :'( ??? :o ;D :'(  BITTER SWEET.

Great news its easy, leaves an option when at the last stop.

Its got me stumped, today I replace the spark plugs and will with each component ,working back through all options until up to speed.

Also noticed ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING when ignition/cranking. Any ideas where that fault lies?.

I need a touch of info about the voltage/amp output readings from the ignition transformer coil. I've read a few post and misplaced a detailed one, about testing the unit :and the readings are different comparitively. It is easy but I'm no wiz with the multimeter. Eg. Output gives 5v and mine has 15.0 I gather volts. Settings on the metre aren't described so I'm also guessing. Then turn engine to get a lower reading, less 5 and nothing looks the same output as others describe or even if its right.

............a day later..............a day later............................................a day later...........................................

Well I pulled the transformer coil and did the usual tests all say working but for the test that has the ignition switched on, nothing working there, SO I got a new one.

You sure its getting power from the fusebox? Relay issues are pretty common on T4s.

I'd love to think that.

The initial problem was a dip in idle every 10 secs, so anything that remotely looks like an association in that way gets new parts. And that's all that can be done until the part is changed because vagcom shows no faults and testing parts only conclude in working ones.

Check everything anyway.

So when something sneaky like the ignition transformer works then won't then its only down to testing wits, so the only thing left to change after this is the ecu/immo then its a no brained. That's why I asked about them so I could replace parts from the last source, eliminating from there, but information is slow.

Last on list_ fuel pressure sensor_ after this is replaced the ECU will be the suspect. Before overhauling the ecu needed connecting to the immo, is this a warning of breakdown??

Fuel pressure sebsor? Wtf? You mean the fuel pressure regulator?

I've now got spark but it sparks when the ignition is turned to ON ;obviously a spark when starting/turning the engine (which doesn't yet I think because of a timeing issue). I have footage of a strong spark, on an exposed plug, when ignition is flicked on.
    What relationship is the error from, concerning the ecu? That's related to...earths?
Thats not normal or I would have thought possible! ....a current right through the dizzy and everything!?. I had just changed the EARTHED? ignition transformer/coil (another double named item, manuals and part names similarly sensor/regulator have listings from them :-\) and it fixed the no spark issue,new rotor/cap/coil/hall sender/ignition switch/vacume leads/cleaned idle regulator/air intake filter box.. etc ,but does that mean it was responsible or broken by it, thus caused by the ecu?

I'd think of that before another parts required, but the next suspect IS the ecu. Checking that requires a tool but I don't have/get the intermediate one. Have vagcom. Is there other tests I can look to do?

HELP

 ;D I now have ignition and lift off.
The idle control sensor (or CSV or isv ..somthin) is creating a very rough idle, but the van works well without it.

what was the problem?

I'm not sure of what the electrical environment is in a van is but the replaced components rely on electric current and are associated to the starting of it. The parts still show a working property yet, won't ENTIRELY work properly, not detected with safeguards so I assumed mechanical or ECU which confused me because there was sparking plugs from ignition ON not run. .. !? How can the ecu pass that on.
    So it was prime suspect until the icv made a lumpy engine.

REPLACED ignition, ignition switch, ignition transformer, rotor & cap, distributor hall sender, spark plugs and because leads were OK the electrical components are suspected of being the victims of electrical mismanagment , can the ecu be held responsible for killing them?

I think its an old battery that quickly gets flat...wrong voltage

Unless you can help.

...............................................................next day..............................

....it never ends..vagcom fault code 00532 supply voltage b+ 0700 signal too low...the connections to ecu need checking or battery on its way out.

I've returned to adaption and remet the immo to the ecu, again.

Is there some reason this needs that much attention. Why can't it remember it?.
Also traced no current from hall sender/distributor which are new. Is this likelily from an ecu related 'cant think' thing or immo. I guess its blown up from volts or earth yeah!?

Well thats about it, if there's no give or take on that its off to the shop.
Thanks anyway.

Can the relay/fuse no30 cause this much havoc.

Hello you, is this me.