NefMoto

Hello All,
I'm new in flashing ECUs so I need some help regarding the following problem.
NefMoto cannot validate the memory layout and read my car's ECU despite it can read the identification data. The car is a Skoda Octavia 1.4 16V with ME7.5.10 ECU.
The error message is the following:

Start diagnostic session failed, ECU reports conditions not correct or sequence error. This can occur if the security lockout is running, or the engine is running. Please turn off the ignition and retry.

The engine is not running of course. The ECU is in the car and the ignition was on. All memory layout files were tried with the same result.
The whole log is attached.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I did the read successfully and compare it with an original in order to check if flash was corrupt or not as I was pushed to believe that ECU was a source of some cold start problems.
For me, the workaround was to use the memory layout "29F800" WITHOUT any memory layout check otherwise the ECU will go into "lockout" (20 minutes break :-)).
Other memory layout were not working !
You'll get a 1 MB file with its content being actually the original flash 512Kb and one more copy of it. Mine was a "3547" (old version) and I have compared it with an original (posted somewhere on another tuning forum) and proved to be exactly the same - which is a proof that NefMoto flasher is working and my ECU's flash is alright.
Mention that the last version of flash for my engine (1.4 16V AXP) is "3695", which I will test in few days after will clone the EEPROM.
Hope this info will serve you ..

Thanks a lot livslx,
I've tried the layout "29F400" first. Maybe that was the problem and the ECU has gone into the locked state. You mentioned that you've got 1MB file. Is it a good size or the 512kB is the correct size for this ECU? (I've BCA engine code.)

The reason of I want to read my ECU is similar to yours because I've got some cold start problem too (Engine starts at 880 - 1000 RPM if the temperature below 18°C. Above 18°C everithing is OK. Engine starts at 1200 RPM). I'd like to compare my ECU's contents with another Skoda's /BCA/ that starts well. Was your problem in the ECU regarding your "cold start problem"?

I'll try it again and post the results and I'm curious to know your results.

If you want to read your ECU flash, use "29F800" memory layout, without doing any checks on the layout. You'll get a 1MB file, which you have to split to 512KB, because actually what you read is 512KB of "normal flash" plus the other half as the mirror (same content as the first half). I'm saying "normal flash" because for sure you have the 29F400BB in your ECU, which is 512KB memory. Split it with an utility like HxD etc.

You may compare it with the "stock" files, posted here, for your convenience.
I am pretty sure that your cold start problems are not related to ECU flash, maybe ECU physical condition - if you came to suspect ECU for cold start problems. Did you check the sensors that usually show this kind of symptoms? G2/G62 is offering a very bad statistics for this symptom ...

There is also a bad statistics on this ECU as well, many ECU on AXP, BCA & compatible 1.4 16V 75HP have been replaced during the years, so you might be right with your ECU as faulty.

My cold start problems is not temperature related.
Hope this helps ...

Ohh, almost forgotten ... you have to set speed to "10400" otherwise the ECU will go "lock".
Only this speed was accepted by this ECU, from my experience.

That is very useful. Thanks a lot again.
I'll retry the reading with accepting your advises.

Yes, the sensors were tested and seems all of them are OK. (MAP; temperature). ECU is suspicious because the required RPM is also as low as the actual and on the other Octavia it is 1200RPM at all cold starts. (Red by VAG-COM)

I hope I (or a person who has more knowledge than me) will find the reason of this problem.

Hello livslx,
The method you've suggested is working fine. :) I could read the contents of the ECU and split it with HxD. The two files are identical and has correct checksum.
Thanks for your help!
And what about writing? Did you succeed with writing your ECU?

Hi abalogh,

Not yet. I'm pretty sure that the writing is going to work, even if you have to resume several times. I believe that you may try first with 29F400BB layout (~23 minutes to write) and if is not working after several times with auto-resuming, you may try 29F800 (~45 minutes). As I know- is better to power supply the ECU with at least 13 Volts (external power supply with good "amperage" 10-15A at least) because if going under 12.5 Volts you may encounter errors. If still encountering errors you may disconnect, before switching ignition on, the fuses F11 and F15 (instrument cluster fuses) as sometimes the cluster is interfering with flash writing.

I'm not going to write the flash back to my ECU but I will use the spare ECU, after I will succeed to clone the IMMO EEPROM.

If I find something interesting for you, I'll let you know. And I can tell you now that the VAG K+CAN Commander 3.6 is not working well on our ECUs.  >:(

Tony has done a really great job (ME7 ECU Flashing software) as now I'm sure that the software is correct within the ECU, still remains to open the case and check the condition and also drivers of the injectors etc etc might be a source of problems for other people.

What is really strange is that the cold start problem came by exactly after one day that a local service has changed the distribution (belts, rollers, water pump). I have checked the proper alignment by a VW dealer and is was confirmed well done.

Have a couple of things to check before I go again on the ECU ..

Hi livslx,

I think I'll wait for your write to succeed. (Because I haven't got a second ECU.) Meanwhile I'll try to read the ECU from another Octavia without any cool start problem and compare it with mine.
By the way: do you know why this ME7.5.10 is so strange? I mean - can only be red with a 1024k memory layout but it has 512k memory. I cannot find any ECU flashing software that definitly says that it can read and write this ECU. (Is it differs so much from ME7.5.1 or ME7.5.5?) You are right, NefMoto software is really great.
I have some strange experience with Galletto 1260 regarding reading ME7.5.10. It could read the ECU only once via OBDII connector. After this one successful read it could not connect to ECU anymore. (Even after 2 days.)
I'm just wondering, sorry.  :)

Hope you will do a successfull write soon.

By the way what is your cold start problem? Does it start strange way or does not start at first?

Hi,

I believe the only reliable way is to write this ME7.5.10 in "boot mode" on the bench (using tools like ByteShooter, BDM or even MPPS). I would try this way if I have to. I have tried several software and interfaces to read the flash of ME7.510 and the only one which worked was NEFMOTO with dumb interface (FTDI232BL - really dumb one!)- the real magic is related to the combination: KWP1281 & speed of "10400".
Even with the famous VAG K+CAN 3.6 FULL I didn't have any success, on K line, because of the timing, you can force it on KWP1281 but not on 10400 speed. 
To make things even more difficult, this ECU is associated with the famous instrument cluster (year 2001) Motometer BOO V01 which also makes difficult the reading and writting. To make a duplicate key I had to remove the instrument cluster and read the EEPROM directly with a POMONA SOIC 8 and eeprom reader/writer. The good news is that is very hard to steal your car :) (if still IMMO ON).

My ECU has to pass a visual check and I have to copy the EEPROM in order to clone it. I don't want to write the flash ver 5437 to the spare ECU (which is 3965) in order to try how the car is performing with ver 3965. In the near future ..

Regards.

My cold start problems started upon distribution belts, rollers and water pump change. As soon as I would start the engine within 24 hours about, everything is fine. If one or more days are passing by, the engine is not starting immediately, it need a few revs or a second ignition trial. Otherwise everything is smooth and fine.

Don't know why the flash is 1MB into the ECU in the car. I have to open the box and read the flash type. It was heard before that an ECU even with the same Bosch code and VW code, to be built with different hardware. The spare ECU has 29F400BB, but the one in the car it looks like is 29F800. I have to open the box ... a matter of near future.

Regards.

Hi,

Thanks for the info again. Your cold start problem is really a mistery. I haven't heard about this kind of problem yet. (But my problem is a mistery for me and for an expert too  :))

I've red the ECU content from the other Octavia but it is not the same version (My ECU is ME7.5.10J 4413 and the other ME7.5.10BJ 7980), and there are so many differences that I cannot manage. Do you know a place where I could download ME7.5.10J 4413 original ECU file? I haven't found any.
I'm really curious about your writing results because I'd like to know which tools it is needed and whether I could change my ECU if it would be necessary.

Regarding the flash type: Galletto 1260 reported that my ECU has 29F400BT, the third version  :(.
And a question: the 1U0 920 801 A - KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V10 is the kind of Motometer instrument cluster that you have mentioned?

Best regards,

Hi,

Yesterday I have dismantled the ECU from the car, opened its box, visually fine, it has the same layout as the spare (no wonder, as the spare has the same Bosch and VW code!) and it has 29F400BB (512 KB) also.

I've cloned the IMMO eeprom (95040) content from the car's ECU to the spare ECU, installed temporarily the spare ECU, ignited ... it works ! Did about 30 kilometers for drive test, as expected it behaves differently, as this spare ECU map's software version is 3695. The original is 3547 (year 2000/2001). Mainly, when I release the throttle pedal, the rpm is slowing down easily not so fast like the 3547. Only if you set the speed lever to "none" the rpm is decreasing very fast. I can also notice some fuel saving as well, because 3547 was letting the rpm came down fast and you have to increase rpm fast - and this is eating fuel very much. I can say that 3695 is kind of "preserving torque" which is specially very good when driving within the city. Can you tell me how your Octavia is behaving in this regards?

Of course the 3695 is also for the AXP engine, otherwise I would not risk trying it.

If you are interested how I cloned the IMMO eeprom in the ECU, tell me, I'll "pm" you.

Don't know yet about solving my cold start problems, it remains only two things to investigate: fuel pump "flow pressure" and the G2/62 temp sensor to exchange. I've noticed some differences (even 5 degrees) in the instrument cluster indicator and the OBD diagnostic software readings from the ECU, there is a chance that the ECU is in trouble when G2/62 sensor (antifreezing liquid temp) is cold. Tomorrow I'll change this G2/62 as well.

Best regards.

Hi,
It's great to hear that you were succeed in writing the ECU and IMMO eeprom. Of course I'm interested in the method you've done it and softwares that you've used. It will be greatly appreciated if you let me know this info.

Regarding the RPM decreasing. I have not paid attention to it yet. But today during drivig home through the city I watched on this behavior. I did not feel that the RPM decrease fast when I switched the gears (but it is only my feeling). Is there any way to compare it?

By the way, do you know what is the rule of changing the ECU software? I mean how can I know that which software can be uploaded into my ECU, or it can use only the version that it has originally equipped? Or the key is the hardware number?

Best regards,

The key is to flash only if the ECU board matches.

If both SW versions are for engine code X and they are both wideband and same Immo version, it should TECHNICALLY work.

Hi Gonzo,

Thanks for your reply.
So I have the following data about my ECU:
VW number: 036906032J
Type: ME 7.5.10  4413
HW number: 0261207194
SW number: 1037363469
Flash type: 29F400BT
Which one (or more) have to be met?

Best regards,

Hi Abalogh,

I strongly believe that if these 3 conditions are met:
1. same Bosch code (manufacturer/designer) on the silver label
2. same VAG code (integrator, including last letters) on the silver label
3. same ECU type (ME 7.5.10xx to every letter) on the silver label
then you can flash it up with a stock bin file. The same applies if taken (second hand) from the same engine code and the ECU worked well. Also, if you can open the boxes and see visually no differences between the two circuit boards (like Gonzo said).

I prefer opening the box and check the injector drivers (burned out or not) or other power ICs visually and if any corrosion or discolored spots are on the circuit board, while also you can check if it's exactly the same architecture and ICs types/memories. (ICs = integrated circuits). Sometimes you have to peel off the paper label pasted onto the AM29FxxxYY flash in order to check the flash type. Disadvantage = you have to re-apply the silicone, on the borders,  to keep the box watertight. But you know that the hardware is visually ok.

Did PM you, in regards how to copy the immo eeprom.

About my cold start problem .. today, the mechanics will check if the previous workshop did align the distribution well, as my cold start problem started immediately upon replacement of the distribution kit, in 2010.

Regards.

Hi livslx,

Thanks for these info. It seems that it is very strict and my ECU cannot be flashed with an ECU file from the other Octavia even if it is an 1.4 16V BCA with ME7.5.10. Have to be very careful.
By the way could you flash (write) your ECU (not the IMMO eeprom) with NefMoto software finally?

And another question: What do you think, is it possible to replace a whole ECU (hadrware and software) with the different one? I mean to replace e.g. ME7.5.10 4413 - 036906032J with ME7.5.10 7980 - 036906032BJ?

Best regards,

If they are both ME7.5.10 and they are both same engine then it should work. Give it a shot. But flash the spare, not your own  ;)

If the "032BJ" is taken from the same engine (BCA), it should work instead of "032J".
Using a second-hand/spare ECU would work, but you have to clone the immo eeprom content to the spare ECU, otherwise the engine will not start.

On the other hand, if you want to go on "re-flashing the ECU" solution:
ME7.5.10 and the Instrument Cluster (usually Motometer BOO Vxx) are strongly related, to ensure a positive result on flashing the ECU map into your ECU, I believe that you have to fulfill:
- supply the car with a strong battery charger to make sure that during flashing you will not have voltage coming too low (13.5 volts would be very good).
- pull off the instrument cluster fuses (F11 and F15, but better check on your fuses board)
before re-flashing session.
- make sure that your laptop will be stable (well supplied, no processor intensive processes)
- use the same FTDI dumb interface that you succeed reading the flash (if it was "stable" in 45 minutes then should be stable on writing as well).

Regards.

Thanks for your suggestions livslx and Gonzo!

I think I have to get a spare ECU for the secure test (now I have only a file from a '032BJ").
Or find another possible reason for the cold start problem  :-\.
I'll post the results.
If you can resolve your cold start problem livslx, please let me know.

Regards,

Hi abalogh,

I have resolved the cold start problem.

It was the vacuum pipe to the gasoline pressure reducer. It was not cracked but during the distribution belt replacement it seems that was the last time for that rubber pipe to hold the pressure and its tightness was almost lost. During the night time or long standing, all the vacuum was lost and it was necessary a few engine revolutions in order to rebuild the vacuum.

The gasoline pressure reducer is located to the distribution belts end, actually it is the end of the injectors rail, thats why it was the source of my cold start problems.

Now, after one month upon this rubber pipe replacement, still EVERYTHING IS FINE !!!
Everybody is looking for cracked rubber pipes but not for loose tightness, you see ..

Best regards,
livslx

Oh, those annoying small things!

Hi livslx,

It's great that you,ve found it. I'll check this pipe too, but it seems that the origin of my problem is different. But who knows  ;).
Now I'm looking for a second hand replacement ECU. The new one has a horrible price. The only thing I got to know that the 036906032J is not exists now the replacement is the 036906032BJ so I think it has a reason.
Thanks for your post.

Best regards,

Hi livslx,
Unfortunately I haven't found a proper replacement ECU for my car so I cannot say about any result yet. But there was a strange thing which happend a week before.
There was a common service taken a week before (oil change, air filter change, brake fluid change etc.) And the brake pads and shoes were also changed. After the brake fluid change there was an ABS bleeding. After this service the car has been changed. Starting the engine was easier, there were more power in the engine when I started at the traffic lights so it behaves as a new one. But it lasts only for a day. I didn't use the car for 2 days and when I used it again all these fine feelings has been disappeard. (Starting the engine is just like before the service.)
Have you got any idea regarding this behavior? Is it confirms the fault of the ECU or not? What is your opinion?
Best regards,

It doesn't confirm anything. This kind of thing happens all the time. After service car gets better, or worse. Usually because fault memory has been cleared (faults or no faults). This also zeroes a few adaptation channels, mixture-adaptations for example.

Hi terok,
To be more accurate, the real service (with service interval reset - there were no DTCs) was 3 weeks before this positive change. 3 weeks after the service there was a brake service only with bleeding the ABS. After this the car became better (but only for one day  :( ). Have you any idea for this?
Best regards,

Hello abalogh, livslx

I have a 2004 golf 4 with the same engine as you, BCA,  and have exact the same problem with cold start, over 15 degrees C, outside it starts correct revving at 1200 rpm at idle and after warming a little approx 1 min. dropping at 750 rpm at idle, and below 15 degrees C it starts abnormally at 780 - 800 rpm at idle instead of 1200 rpm, I checked with vagcom and no DTC found !?

Did you succeed to solve your cold start problem?

Thanks.

Hi esilviu,

After a number of tests and comparisons with other Octavia with BCA engine, I can say that this behavior is intended and controlled by the ECU. My car starts at 1200 RPM above 18°C and starts at 910 RPM below 18°C. But in your case the 800 RPM seems too low. My problem was that in some cases there were severe vibrations after starting at 910 RPM. I could eliminate this vibration by slightly increase the idle speed and idle torque of the engine (+20 RPM and +3 Nm). Unfortunately I could not find the real reason of these vibrations. (I noticed it first when the car was 4 years old.) Nobody could detect any error despite a car electronic expert were examine the car and he noticed the vibration  :(.
Now the winter coming soon. I'm curious whether this solution works at lower temperatures.
Does your engine runs smoothly when starts at 800 RPM?

Best regards

Hi abalogh,

Thanks for your pm and for your answer, maybe we can find the solution taking into account we are two with exact the same problem.  

Concerning the starts under 15°C at 800 RPM , it is not so smooth , you can feel some small vibrations, but for me are not so annoying , I  think they are normal for a cold start, for me the real problem is this cold start which is reversed  from normal - it should start under 15°C with 1200 RPM and over 15-20 °C it could decrease the RPM level to 900, 800 or even 750 if outside we have 35°C.
As soon as I will have some spare  time I will check the intake temperature sender , it's the one on the intake chamber in the same package with map sensor.
In my opinion are two sensors which could lead to this behavior - coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor, this could explain the 15°C threshold;  18°C in your case, there should be a blockage of the sensor/s at a certain level producing this effect/behavior on the engine in cold start , even I/WE don't have any DTC's on vagcom.

THANKS and we hope to solve the problem :)

Trying to fix hardware problems by accessing ECU calibration is the most backwards way there is.
If the ECU is stock and the binary is verified to be OK, then leave it alone. It is not your ECU, it is something broken with your car.

Your vibration can be a dual mass flywheel on the way out, uneven compression, dirty injectors, bad spark plugs and so on.
The ECU is the last place to check for such things, as by doing this you are basically saying that Skoda and VAG did not know what they were doing when they were calibrating this engine, and this is a pretty bold statement.

I perfectly agree with you. We will clearly try to solve the hardware problem (the route cause), it's my opinion too.

Hi prj and esilviu,

Yes, you are right in general but it was a final workaround trying to eliminate the vibrations. But here is the complete story. I would be glad if you could advise some more things to find the real reason.

I've noticed this vibration when the car were 4 years old (ran about 38000 Kms). The engine has not started correctly and viblated severly. I've stopped and for the second case it started correctly. There were no DTC. When this happens 4-th case there were a DTC about random misfires.
So first the throttle body was cleaned and the spark plugs were changed. Everything OK for 2 or 3 months but then the vibration were noticed again and happened once or twice a month. Then the following parts were changed or checked:
Ignition coils were changed in pairs (two at a time) - all was correct.
Injectors were cleaned with a STP injector cleaner.
Coolant temperature sensor was checked - it was OK.
Checking the fuel pump pressure - it was OK (1,5 - 3 bar).
Fuel filter was changed.
Injectors were cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner.
Checking the Manifold Air Pressure - it was correct. But finally I've changed the MAP sensor (by an original BOSCH made one) despite the correct pressure values, but the vibrations remained.
The compression and the pressure drop was checked by cylinders - it was OK.
The vacuum pipe of fuel pressure regulator was checked - it was OK. (See the problem of livslx)

Meanwhile I noticed that the vibrations happen when the engine starts at ~900 RPM (not 1200 RPM). Then I investigated that engine starts lower RPM than 1200 when the coolant temperature is lower than 18°C.
After that my car mechanic (who knows my car from its early ages) says that there could be only the ECU which causes this problem. We thought that it is not normal that the engine starts at lower RPM than 1200 but finally it turned out that it is normal (see later).
Then the car was checked by an official Skoda Service and a specialist who could detect the vibrations but he could not find any faulty signal or value during the tests.

After that I replaced the ECU by a new one (exactly the same as the original of the car (036 906 032J 4413). Nothing has changed. The engine behaves the same way.

Meanwhile livslx checked his car (an AXP Golf) cold start procedure and he said that his engine behaves the same way. It can start at ~1000 RPM when the coolant temperature is lower than 10~15°C. And I asked my friend (who has a BCA Octavia newer than mine) to check the cold start of his car and he confirmed what livslx said. So it is normal that at lower temperatures the engine starts at lower RPM but it seems that the RPM value and the temperature limit slightly differs by cars.

After that I've increased (+20 RPM) the idle speed and there was no vibration ever since (six months). Now I'm curious what will happen in winter.

(There is no dual mass flywheel in my car.)

So if you have any good idea what could be the real reason of these vibrations or you think that I missed something to test please post it. And I'm also curious about what you, esilviu, will find as a reason of this problem.
Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

Hi abalogh,



After you enumerated all the actions you've done, it's very difficult to to say what could be the route cause, practically you eliminated all possible causes, and after you changed the ECU, with a new one - it's clear that it has nothing to do with the ECU.

Also, I started to believe that is normal, when is colder outside, the engine to start at lower rpm than when is warmer, and I will tell you why, today in the morning when I started the engine at 9.5 degrees C outside temperature, it revved at 950 rpm,
so I will put under observation with logs-tests on vag com like coolant temp, air intake temp, outside temp, cold start rpm in different days/temps, unfortunately lately I was very busy with my work and this is not my daily running car to observe its comportment , but as soon as I will have some more time I will start the logs and post my findings here.

Concerning your engine, it's a little bit strange that vw/skoda specialists wasn't able to correctly diagnose the cause - I have a few question  for you
-what year is your car
-how many km has your car, did you change your timing belts and water pump
-If I correctly understood your engine vibrates only on cold start not revved more than 1000 rpm,
if you accelerate over 1000 rpm when engine is cold , no vibration, and also when your engine gets warmer and rpm drops to 750 rpm at idle , as normal, no vibration ?

I will ask a friend of mine which works in a vw service center about your engine's symptoms

I'll keep you in touch

Best Regards.

Hi esilviu,

Thanks for your reply, and it will be greatly appreciated if you can find and post more information regarding this issue.
Regarding your questions:
- My car is a 2003 made Skoda Octavia with BCA engine.
- It was 4 years old and had been run 38000 Kms when I noticed the vibrations at cold start first.
- Timing belts were changed at 2009 (53000 Km). Water pump was not changed.
- Yes, it seems that the engine vibrates only when it revs lower than 1000 RPM, but not every case, about 1 or 2 times a months. But in this case the speed cannot be increased. It is better to stop and restart the engine. If the engine starts normally, even if at 910 RPM, when the temperature reaches 32°C the revolution drops to 800 and then to 750 RPM.
Sometimes there are small vibrations after the cold start. In this case if I increase the engine speed there are no vibrations at higher RPMs.

I'm waiting for your findings. Thanks.

Best regards,

Hi abalogh,

Sorry for long time absence in the forum, but I just had some problems - I just added 3 more penalty points to my driving licence making a total of 15, and now for 30 days I will not be able to drive a car >:(  till 25th of Nov.

From my understanding this vibrations occur only 1,2 times /month and when occur is not possible to rev the engine, being necessary to restart the engine, is that correct? 

Hi esilviu,

It is not a good news regarding your penalty. It seems that October wasn't so lucky months because I've got a penalty too  :(.

Regarding the vibrations: yes, you understand it well. The vibrations directly caused by misfires (checked by VAG-COM) but what the misfires caused by....?
If there are only small vibrations no misfires can be detected.

Best regards,

Hello Abalogh, I saw that you changed your ECU , did you have the pin code for the replacement ECU , or did you read its 95040 EEPROM with ArgDub's tool and find the pin this way , if yes did you read it through the OBD port?

Hi esilviu,
I used VAGdashCAN-COM (chinese version) to read the pin from my original ECU. The replacement ECU was a brand new one so it did not contained any pin. I've only overwritten the 95040 with the contents of the original ECU's 95040 using VAGdashCAN.
(To be honest I've tried this earlier with a used ECU and it failed. Somebody has cleared the pin from the used ECU, but in this case VAGdashCAN could not overwrite the 95040.)
Yes, VAGdashCAN uses OBDII port.
I hope I could help you.
Regards,

Thanks very much Abalogh , I just bought a spare ECU 036 906 032 BJ advertised as brand new so normally without pin or VIN and IMMO number inside , this can be installed in the car with vag com , all you need to know is your original pin number - image attached. Later when received and tried to install I discovered with vag com that it was installed in a car before so it contains a pin which I don't know yet a VIN and an IMMO number showed by vag com. So for the moment is not possible to install it in the car as I don't know the pin in order to be paired with the cluster .
That's why I will try this weekend to read the content of the 95040 EEPROM - via OBD port as I don't want to open the ECU box - in order to decode the pin number with DDillenger procedure, the reading will be done with ArgDub's tool .
All this because ECU bought is not brand new as advertised with virgin 95040 EEPROM it proved that it has been paired to another car before  >:(
I will post the results here if it will be a successful reading 

Hi,
I'm curious about your results.
(ArgDub's tool works not only in boot mode!?)
Best regards,

Check the last post on this link:  http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=1168.270#msg38078  - DDillenger point me that it can be done in both way boot mode and/or over OBD port , the difference is in the speed , over the OBD port the speed will be decreased .

All the best 

Hi ,
This morning I succeeded, from the first time, to read the EEPROM of my spare ECU 036 906 032 BJ with ArgDub's tool and a dumb K-Line cable and decoded the SKC with DDillenger guide.

More details in the link bellow
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=1168.285

Thanks a lot

Congratulation esilviu!
I'm happy to hear that this method works fine on ME 7.5.10.
Best regards,