NefMoto

thus why im putting it here in the noob section.

on med9 if the specified boost is where im wanting it, but actual wont meet it, does that point to hardware??
i can attach logs, but they ARE VCDS!!
the thing is this is after going through a lot of troubleshooting on the mechanical side for excessive crankcase pressure, causing oil out of my valve cover and oil cap, and also burning oil at full boost. turned out it was a clogged up breather tube from the oil filter housing to the pcv valve. when that was happening it was meeting requested. now it isn't.

thanks for any insight

When actual boost won't meet requested boost, is N75 DC at 95 percent? if it is---->Hardware. If it's not---->PID.

won't it only go to 95 if the I limiter is set up to 95 tho?

I'm gonna log it tho anyway. I also found my rear breather tube came loose too, not sure if that would really matter tho

nevermind that.

so its not getting to 95, and therefore my PID. where does one start with stock turbo/wastegate? KFLDIMX or KFLDRL?
and maybe before that, it will only request 2550 at first, then slightly below that ie 2540,2530,2520, which is not a big deal as i dont want the full 2550 anyways, but could that point to the reason im not getting the full 95% from wgdc?

Both.

ok, I adjusted them. now I'm getting 95% and still not meeting specified boost.
I'll look for leaks, any suggestions on most common places?? I know I've found oil around the lower seals on the intercooler pipes, but I replaced those last summer. along with the rev d diverter valve.
might make another thread fir that in the correct place!
thanks guys

Most common (this should be a FAQ lol it applies to just about all turbo cars):

• Intake leak (pressure test)
• DV leak (compare ps_w to actual boost)
• Collapsing inlet (pretty much all 1.8ts suffer from this)
• Faulty N75 or wg not holding (unhook wg line so it is at atm and see if you get boost.. carefully!)
• Clogged cats
• Turbo lady

I need to find one of these.

Here you go

(http://thes4.com/PostImages/turbolady.jpg)

 ;D ;D ;D

I have one as well.

What turbo is this, that you are requesting 1.5 bar from? Just curious.

stock k03 on my BPY

Pardon my french, but WTF are you doing?

 :o

I have an intake and a 3" catless downpipe. so that rules those out.
I will make a cap to pressure test tomorrow hopefully and if that doesn't reveal the culprit, then I'll move onto the n75

Don't waste your time.

I should have added "check your turbo's compressor map" :P

uhhh... at work right now??

really?? it would overboost previously?

You did not answer my question. Why are you targeting 1.55 bar on an engine with a K03 and 10.5 CR?
You want to poke some holes in the block or what is your target? Thank god the actuator from factory is soft enough and they have a common fault with the actuator loosening up.

But you'd probably grenade your engine if it ran target. Be happy it's in one piece.

Also your HPFP will never allow it to run that in the midrange...

I could go on and on and on. Please STOP and THINK.

well originally I wasn't trying to peak in the midrange, but when it started not hitting specified I was upping it to see if it would ever hit full boost. my lambda is .82-.79 with very conservative timing.  i was under the impression that most off the shelf stage 2 tunes were requesting and hitting 2550, from seeing other logs. yes the hpfp does dip in that range sometimes, but other times it holds the 120bar requested.

and before I was attempting to troubleshoot my requested was 2550mbar until 2500rpm then drops down to 2200-2300mbar until 4500 and tapers to 1120 by redline. didnt think I was pushing it too hard

No, most tunes don't run 1.5 bar on K03.
And yes you were pushing it too hard.

HPFP dips = you already have too much boost and in colder weather you are going to have issues.

Put in a sane boost request (max 1.2-1.3 bar) and post logs.

from what I can find, all stage 2 tunes spike from 19-23psi and then settle to around 16-18psi and taper to 13-15 by redline.  whether its actually requested or not, I'm not sure. last year I ran a somewhat similar boost profile last year, but mine would taper to 9psi. because my hbn was defined backwards. from some peoples logs I can find on forums is that 2550 is requested before the turbo can actually spool it, but then. drops before the actual meets it, but it overshoots for the spike. 
I will lower my request and log and post the results. after being able to inspect a lil bit better I can see what looks like oil spray on the tray below the intercooler hose connection.

And you consider this good tuning?

The HPFP dips in pressure above 1.3 bar in midrange on a K03 car and above 1.4 bar in midrange on a K04 car. Even with brand new followers.
If you're not trying to run lambda 1 at 1.5 bar of course.

Please try not to get hung up on what everyone else does. This is a very dangerous way of thinking. There are many factors to take into consideration (fueling, temperature, egts, your compressor map, etc). More isn't always the answer.

ok,  thank you both for your help and advice I do appreciate it.
I was unable to find a good tuned file here to get an idea of what should be done, so I went looking at logs of the retail tunes. and I wasn't really sure how the me7 stuff would compare. they have smaller displacement(1.8t) and turbo is slightly smaller too (I guess mines a k03s). I will def be reevaluating my file.
while I'm thinking of it, something else I couldn't find , i assume cuz the s4's a4's would never have this issue, is that power seems down right after a shift. like I NEVER have chirped my tires even shifting as fast as i can. it seems kind of weird and that it could slow down acceleration

I don't mean to be rude, but if you can't take an engine and by fiddling with the management find out what it likes, then you have no business tuning any cars.
I appreciate you are learning, but you are doing this completely the wrong way. Maybe it would be better to start with carburettors and understanding of various boosted engines, and only after you understand the hardware and the mechanics of an ICE to fiddle with an extremely complex injection system.

By copy pasting other stuff you will just copy paste the mistakes of others and never achieve anything great. Don't think for a second, just because someone is "famous" that they have any idea of what they are doing.

edited

MED9.1 disappointment on the dyno  :-\

Last week I finally took my car for a run on the dyno (Dyno Dynamics model). I thought my existing logs driving up and down the roads were looking decent enough, so now for the moment of truth!

Car
Audi S3 8P MY2008 ~ 70 000 miles
BHZ engine (K04) 2.0 TFSI
8P0907115H
387951
HW mods none (completely stock OEM hw, major service last month at the main dealer – oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs etc)

I was a bit disappointed – just 279 bhp. Stock is 261 bhp and I was hoping for closer to 300 bhp still on OEM hw just going on the MAF reading.

Thing is, I’ll stick my neck out here and say I don’t think it’s a sw issue. Actual boost 1.2 bar  at 6500 rpm. WGDC 95%. Fuelling ~0.81. CF < -2.25. MAF ~ 238 g/s. Throttle Plate ~99%. No DTC’s.

Before I go looking for non-existent hw faults, is this as good as it gets? (K04-64 compresssor map…) Anyone got some stage 1 results (i.e. sw only) I could compare against?

I had the logger going during the dyno run, so the pictures below are all from the same session. Actual Boost and Load really do seem to fall away after 5500 rpm

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13501;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13503;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13505;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13507;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13509;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13511;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13513;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13515;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13517;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13519;image)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7932.0;attach=13521;image)

Make it a bit leaner in the whole rpm range (around 0.86 at 3000 rpm down to 0.813 at 6520 rpm) using LAMFA and make BTS a bit richer than LAMFA - around 0,797 at 6520 rpm.
Check if you can advance ignition a bit in mid rpm :)

That's about all you are going to get out of one K04.

Disregard what stock is supposed to be, get a dyno of your car stock. Thats the only way to measure gains.

R

This. ^ Also, not all Dynos show the same power figures for the same engine. Most DD operators can easily add ~+10-15% to get the numbers inline to say a Dynojet's readings. Honestly, the engineers that write the software for many of the dyno companies do not use the same algorithms to measure HP, and don't even agree on the best methods to use to translate what the dynos measure into real world HP. Where the intake temp probe is placed has a big impact on the numbers this particular dyno produces as well. You need to get a baseline preferably on the same dyno brand (same dyno if possible), with the same operator to be able to compare before/after with any decent degree of accuracy.

maf x 1,25 approx = HP
your reading maf 240 *1,25 approx 300hp
dyno not good  calibrated :(

It's important to differentiate between wheel HP and crank HP.

No. You can move the same amount of air with 5 degrees advance as you can with 20, and I assure you the hp levels aren't nearly the same.

MAF readings are pretty accurate to a certain degree,  then they become out. 

Im knocking out 265g/s of air, which is 331bhp,   but making 360bhp on the dyno...so its out 30bhp.   Thats a well known UK dyno which has proved itself against many other dynos as reading accurate.

Those Maf - HP conversation are not correct at all.
If you have an old Maf sensor and tune your car it will read low showing you low Load readings but the car will still make good power. Once your old Maf is done and you buy a new one. It will read higher. Your fueling will be way off. Once you dial in your fueling again the power will be still the same.
Then you have diff power based on type of fuel you are running still the same Maf readings.

Catless downpipe needed ;D

Your timing looks a little conservative up top. And have you looked at the variable cam maps?

so if boost psi is way low and ps_w is really high then Diverter valves?

Id be keeping both timing maps identical and using the VVT/camshaft adjustment maps to hold the torque band.  Works VERY well.