Title: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 01, 2015, 12:48:00 PM Hi,
New to the build your own tuning but being forced into it due to a CEL light that won't stay off due to downpipes. I have to pass emissions without a CEL so here I am. The car is a Awe Stage 3 running fine otherwise but the AWE encoded box I can't seem to get a working bin from so I'm starting from scratch. So far I found a stock L box to start from. Given that I don't need a performance build, at least initially, to pass emissions I'm looking at the minimum I need to do to get a running car with no CEL with the AWE hardware on the engine. Near as I can tell the main thing is the to adapt the build to the nonstock injectors in the car. The L build should work Ok with the Hitachi MAF in the car. I'm sure there's more so that's why I'm here. As far as the fueling goes it seems I need to start with changing the KRKTE value from stockish value of 34.125 to get the mixture near right. Any idea what to put for the larger injectors in the AWE kit? TIA, Al Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: nyet on June 01, 2015, 01:00:23 PM I've never done this before but since I have a soft spot for the poor folks who have AWE kits... here is my hack at getting something that will run on AWE hardware (open element intake, not airbox).
YMMV. IT IS A CRUDE HACK JUST TO GET YOU ON THE ROAD. If your car blows up, it isn't my fault. Enjoy. Feel free to send it to anybody you want. I don't care. If you have a tip, you'll have to copy the maps over to L. Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: nyet on June 01, 2015, 01:36:07 PM Oh, as an addendum, if you have a stock airbox (or rs4 airbox) the file will likely run like shit.. you'll have to retune MLHFM and possibly other MAF related stuff.
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 02, 2015, 01:56:33 PM Thanks for the AWE build, it should be useful to try to get something working here. I do have a stock airbox so I'll have to play with MLHFM. I gather I should compare it to a more stock scalar and mod back that way.
I've also found a J box map file and stock bin to start with. I'm thinking if I can get them to work its a better bet than an L box as I've tried an AWE L box build that has permanent codes supposedly from my car's lack of ESP. It does look like I'm going to have to add to the map file to get the Rear O2 delete and SAI delete variables unless I can find a more complete J box map. I may end up using the L bin and map as the J box won't load MLHFM in tunerpro, it's supposed to be too big. I'm also looking at the KRKTE value in the stock file which is .111 versus about .07129 in that AWE build file from nyet. I gather for larger injectors that value should stay smaller than stock. Do H and J maps interchange the way L and M maps do? TIA, Al Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: ddillenger on June 02, 2015, 02:12:54 PM If you ecu is coded appropriately you will remain code free using the L-box. Start with getting that working.
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 02, 2015, 02:50:44 PM L it is then. Now I have to munge the stock L file to an AWE compatible build. How screwed am I without a wideband O2 sensor?
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: nyet on June 02, 2015, 03:09:06 PM Yea, sadly, you really need a wideband to tune around the crazy AWE MAF...
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 03, 2015, 07:13:23 AM So if we're talking about putting a wideband sensor does this have to be in addition to the stock sensors so I need a new bung welded in, or can the primary stock sensor(s) be replaced with a wideband sensor? I saw something in the wiki about changing some parameters to use a wideband RS6 sensor in a stock location although I thought that was the rear sensors.
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: nyet on June 03, 2015, 09:51:21 AM So if we're talking about putting a wideband sensor does this have to be in addition to the stock sensors so I need a new bung welded in, or can the primary stock sensor(s) be replaced with a wideband sensor? I saw something in the wiki about changing some parameters to use a wideband RS6 sensor in a stock location although I thought that was the rear sensors. If you code out the rears, you can put the wideband in the rear location... but it might read off a bit due to them being post cat. Ideally, you want them as close to the turbo outlets as possible. Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 11, 2015, 01:58:43 PM Hi all,
I've created a L box build partially based on Nyet's M box Awe build(many thanks, I'm still sorting out all the mods in that file). It actually runs and hasn't blown up the engine so far. Until I can put a wideband in I'm staying very conservative for now, like I said at the beginning of the thread it's primary purpose is to get the damn downpipe related CEL to turn off for the emissions test next month. However I'm having the same problem that I had the last time I ran a L box build, I'm getting codes from missing equipment that isn't on my old 2000 S4. Specifically I'm getting these codes: 18321 - Pressure Sensor for Brake Boost (G294): Short to Ground P1913 - 35-00 - - 17837 - Circuit for Brake Vacuum Pump: Open Circuit P1429 - 35-00 - - Someone mentioned I have to recode the EEPROM to get ride of these, how do I do that? I've been searching but I haven't found anything that I can use so far. TIA, Al Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: ddillenger on June 11, 2015, 02:41:25 PM CDBKV and ESKONF.
Copy ESKONF from the B-box. Set CDBKV to 0. Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 11, 2015, 02:51:59 PM Thanks for the reply, I'm looking into the bin file using nyet's XDF. There is no CDBKV but there is a CDBKVP that is at 1 so I'll try that. There are 2 ESKONF's, ESKONF1 is blank in Tunerpro but ESKONF2 has a value of 195. I'm at a bit of loss for the ESKONF I need as I haven't seen a B box bin with a XDF and the J box 1 that might work doesn't have the ESKONF in the XDF. So how do I find the address in the binary file?
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: ddillenger on June 11, 2015, 03:36:53 PM You need to copy the entire ESKONF string. Those values in tunerpro represent single bytes. You must copy all 13 from one binary to the other.
ESKONF starts at 10C75. Copy that, and the next 12 bytes! Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 11, 2015, 05:12:45 PM So its the same address in both the L and J bin files? That I can handle.
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: ddillenger on June 11, 2015, 05:47:03 PM No. Why are we talking about the J-box.
From 551B: 0x14ECC 00 FC E0 FC 0C 00 F0 FF AA FA 55 55 55 Replace the string at 0x10C75 in the L-box with the one above. Most of it will already be the same. Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: nyet on June 11, 2015, 06:21:40 PM I do have a stock airbox so I'll have to play with MLHFM. I gather I should compare it to a more stock scalar and mod back that way. A straight scale may not work either, and you also may need to massage KFKHFM... sorry man, but the AWE maf housing is just really really honking weird. You'll likely need to drive around a while and log your stfts at various rpm/load points. Don't forget to disable LTFTs before logging STFTs! Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 11, 2015, 09:38:02 PM Thanks, I don't have a B box image despite searching. Sold the stock one long ago.
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: Lost on June 12, 2015, 12:15:36 AM Just out of curiosity. Is AWEs Maf 90mm? What is special with it?
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: nyet on June 12, 2015, 12:18:28 AM Just out of curiosity. Is AWEs Maf 90mm? What is special with it? 70mm inlet, 100mm at sensor. It is very very non-linear. It's completely whack. They kept making bigger and bigger housings because they couldn't figure out how to do anything w/o crazy underscaled load. Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: ddillenger on June 12, 2015, 12:33:33 AM Honestly, for the price of a straight housing, I'd just grab one. Unless you are SUPER budgeted, that's the way to do it. I have a few kicking around, I'll give you one for what I pay if you pm me.
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: Lost on June 12, 2015, 12:53:00 AM 70mm inlet, 100mm at sensor. It is very very non-linear. It's completely whack. They kept making bigger and bigger housings because they couldn't figure out how to do anything w/o crazy underscaled load. hehe, thanx. Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 12, 2015, 08:53:24 AM Quote From 551B: 0x14ECC 00 FC E0 FC 0C 00 F0 FF AA FA 55 55 55 Replace the string at 0x10C75 in the L-box with the one above. Most of it will already be the same. Unfortunately I'm still getting the 18321 - Pressure Sensor for Brake Boost (G294): Short to Ground P1913 - 35-00 - - after that and modifying CDBKVP instead of CDBKV. What is the address of for CDBKV so I can be sure I'm modifying the right value? After that comes the logging and attempting to deal with the MAF issues. I keep telling myself it must flow more than stock so its worth it.... Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 12, 2015, 12:12:49 PM Quote A straight scale may not work either, and you also may need to massage KFKHFM... sorry man, but the AWE maf housing is just really really honking weird. You'll likely need to drive around a while and log your stfts at various rpm/load points. Don't forget to disable LTFTs before logging STFTs! Ok, from what I read setting NORLA to 5 is the way to disable the LTFT's. What's the address for NORLA in L/M? It's not in the M xdf file that I have. I've done some basic logging and I think the fueling is OK. When things go open loop I'm seeing a higher O2 voltage, like .8 V or so. My noob understanding is that rich, do I need more? I know, I need a wideband but its going to be a bit before I have the time to deal with that. TIA, Al Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: ddillenger on June 15, 2015, 10:06:18 AM NOLRA, not NORLA :P
Title: Re: Homebrew to replace a AWE Stage 3 2000 S4 J box Post by: yti21x7 on June 16, 2015, 10:23:46 AM Oops. I found a thread with NOLRA at 0x18CD5. Hopefully that's right
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