NefMoto

2.7t ME7.1.1
OEM RS6 turbos EV14 730cc@4bar

So as the title says. I had my car running "fine" with the stock air box and 73mm MAF.  Well I put on a 90mm from a lightning and tried to figure a way to get it into/on the stock air box by cutting somehow.
I ditched that in case I had to put it back to stock. I changed MLHFM based on the interpolator provided from a member here.
I also changed KFKHFM to all 1's (not sure exactly why but that's what I read).
-MLOFS...... Already set to 0 (Hitachi)
-KFMLDMN..... No change because I do not understand these values
-KFMLDMNX.... SAME AS ABOVE

Problem that I have so far is that it is really slow now and hardly boosting. My wideband is not here yet but soon, but my stock O2 says i'm running really rich. 
I know that there has to be WAY more that I am missing but I have been working on this car or 6 months and  would love to finally just enjoy it. Any help is GREATLY appreciated it

CATBED said "If you're starting from scratch and not using a stock intake, you're best bet is to set KFKHFM to all 1's. Use the A4/A3 MLHFM and dial in your injectors on part throttle and idle. After your fuel trims are within ~5%, start massaging KFKHFM for various load/RPM points while logging to straighten out MAF readings."

This is the best understanding about the issue that I have.

so, are you going to post logs at some point?

would you like in excel form or a copy of the ECUxPlot image?

I just tried attaching a .csv file but its not loading for some reason. Let me get back to you

Lets see if this works

Limp. Any codes?

nope

I lied.  p0562 - system voltage low
    and
p1557-  positive deveiation

I reverted back to my stock MAF and air box. Tool a log for comparison. Here it is.
Thanks for your help, and sorry for posting so much. I can't add attachments when I go to edit a previous post.

Better read up on positive deviation then, don't you think?

I'd love to hear a full explanation of positive deviation, re: MAF.

LOL really?

Yes, I know that is horrible. I cannot understand why my boost is still so slow. I saw in another post I guy was having similar problems until he changed the axis on kfkhfm,
 
 No as far as the positive the positive deviation goes. If I lower the requested boost to match what i am making then that should cure that issue right?

How is changing axis data going to get you more boost at 95% dc?


If 95% dc isn't getting you the boost you want (on RS6 turbos no less), you're not going to fix anything continuing to tweak maps. You've got bigger issues. Step back from the car (and ecu) and find a qualified mechanic.

OK Thanks for the input.
Back to what i do best.

Also.  I was thinking/hoping that the boost onset could be due to my 73mm maf and possibly the exhaust setup.   Since you seem to think that my mechanical abilities are none existent, I am guessing you are the mechanical genius, So why cant you offer you mechanical wisdom? Part of the reason I am not finished with my tune is because of the thousands of posts on hundreds of threads from people looking for answers.. Including yourself (several times).  When you think you start to get a hang of things, you find a half finished thread about the same thing that says something different.

Sorry I asked. and for sounding shitty

Not in this context, but rather in general.

Again, with 95% DC you should be seeing 25+ PSI if not 30, regardless of exhaust/MAF setup. Doesn't take a genius to know that, mechanical or otherwise. It is the FIRST thing you should have noticed in your logs.


In general positive deviation limp has nothing to do with the MAF; didn't mean to imply it was at all relevant here.

Whether or not positive deviation limp triggers could be due to a lot of things if the car is on the edge.

In any case, no point in even guessing here; if the car can't make boost at 95% DC, all else is a distraction until that is fixed. There is absolutely no point in obsessing over the interactions of a bunch of different things if there are fundamentally broken (and obvious) things to fix first.

Fix those, start again.

Ok Nyet, That makes a lot better sense to me.
This has been driving me nuts. I went through the whole car and fixed several little issues.

And my PID has nothing to do with this?

Hardware...  DV?   My turbos are rebuilt and pretty sure I have no leaks anywhere. I ask DV because that I bought some forge knockoffs.

Leak post turbo or stuck open WG possibly. Worst case, bad turbo. 

It is possible. You should already know how to diagnose boost leak or wg actuator problems (pressure test, check actuator cracking pressure, disconnect N75 electrically, disconnect wastegate line, etc.)

I'm going to have to disagree here. I have seen more bad MAF's (reading erroneously high) cause positive deviation than underboost (from a failing turbo for instance).

I think I found the problem. . Charge line to wastegates was disconnected.  And one of my o2 sensor word was pinched between the dp.  Hopefully this fixes everything.

Keep this thread updated for completeness man! :)