NefMoto

i've been working with an 02 GTI 1.8T i recently picked up on the cheap to experiment with. it was a factory 150hp car as the original ECU part number was 06A 906 032DL. the BIN and XDF i've been using is from the cars 180hp counter part and its part number is 06A 906 032HS. overall the BIN works great stock and the car definitely wakes up a bit but my problem is when i adjust any of the suggested mapping to try and get some more boost out of it there seems to be no affect. on WOT pull in third i only see 10 to 11 pounds and bleeding down to 8 psi by red line. if im rolling at light load in third and floor it the boost will spike up for 12psi than bleed down to 8 again.

the car was a pretty badly molested car, the previous owner had all the vacuum lines out of whack and what i did to cure that was what i feel simplify the vacuum lines down to just 4 lines. 1 is for the diverter valve, 2 is for the N75, 3 is for the FPR and i put a T off of the FPR for the boost gauge which makes 4. the rest of the vacuum ports are blocked off on the intake. i edited ESKONF as per instructions to do away with everything emissions related. there's no N249 anymore, no SAI pump, i made a block off plate for the EGR on the side of the head and installed it and shut down the tank vent valve, downstream oxygen sensor is deleted too.

this is what my ESKONF looks like.
AA FF 00 F3 FF FB FC

i also followed what to do to set the readiness up and delete everything as well and over all everything seems to be working right on that end as i have no CEL for any of that stuff and readiness is always up.

the car has a pretty much stock engine, i put a brand new K03S on it from ebay, it has an ebay FMIC kit, ebay 3in downpipe and full 3in exhaust, forge splitter diverter valve, ebay cold air intake. most of the stuff was on the car when i got it.

over all i know there's a good bit in this car and i cant figure out how to get it out of it. im on the border of figuring out how to ditch the N75 and put a manual boost controller on it so i can get the boost levels i want and work with timing and fuel from there.  i attached the BIN file from my last attempt at trying to get any gains out of the car. im not looking for criticism, im asking for help because i cannot see what im doing wrong. every thread i've read says change this and that. i feel like i ended up changing half of the mapping and just screwed the BIN all to hell. the car does run and drive fine it just lacks any gains at all.
please help me find the errors in what i've done. thanks guys.  

Logs or good luck.

i put 3 different N75's in it with all the same results. thinking about just doing away with the N75 all together and going with a manual boost controller. tuning all these maps is a PITA especially when nothing has any affect on how it runs. only thing thats helped is adding some timing to it and adjusting the target lambda table with the boost the way it is.

if youre making all these "changes" and nothing happens, then youre doing it wrong.

Why a Forge Splitter?  They leak like hell and are not designed for this engine.

Otherwise, hardware sounds fine.  Post up your file, your .kp AND good logs WITH ME7LOGGER, no VCDS crap.

forge splitter because it came on the car when i bought it and its better than a stock plastic valve. 90% of the stuff was on the car when i bought it. its getting an audi TT 225hp intake that faces the drivers side and all new intercooler piping made because the current ebay piping fits horrible and i think i can build a cleaner looking setup based off the TT intake manifold.

In what way?

it has nice polished surface  ::)

because its atleast metal and not plastic. i have forge valves on 2 of my other cars and not one has failed on me. it would have a tial Q or precision PB64 on it if i could run it open to the atmosphere.

because they make cool "bro noises" ?

I can vouce that forge products such as DV and actuators tend to leak.

I'd typed up a reply last night but fell asleep.  The Forge Splitter is the worst, they leak like hell, and it's pretty much a BOV, but can redirect "some" flow.

The 1.8t management is NOT suited to this - as the lost air isn't account for.

The standard 710n valve is a diaphragm based valve and perfectly capable of holding 26 psi - as mine has for 140k in its life (the last 20 with atleast 23psi).  No leaks.

The Forge based stuff is piston actuated - which HAVE to leak, as they cannot perfectly seal.

Anyway, I'd be replacing the valve and starting with a boost leak check.

What maps have you changed?  A list of them, a good WOT log pull - WITH ME7Logger, your .bin and your .kp would be useful.

sigh.

FYI the splitter on this car does not vent to atmosphere, i have that portion capped off. not sure if you realize they come with caps to block either or side to make it full atmospheric or full recirculation. i just like the adjustable hat, makes my life easier to get it dialed in for whatever boost levels the car is running.

There is no part of a functioning BPV that needs to be "adjustable".

But I digress. Where are your logs?

Nothing is better than the standard DV for these cars. Simples as that.

I would certainly try a different DV if I was you, buy the standard Bosch DV its cheap and you will probably see a difference. I had the Forge Split R valve tried running it in Hybrid and Recirculating modes and caused nothing but problems. My boost was fluctuating all over the place! The Forge DV007 is a decent valve but I decided to buy the standard Bosch one and it fixed my problem  :)

This is a aftermarket high quality valve

http://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/dv-plus/dv-t9301-25mm-bosch-diverter-valve-replacement-bov-by-gfb

The fact that you feel you should be adjusting it at all is a problem.

I have been looking at it. Do you have any comments about it?

im working on my GTI 1.8T still and no matter what i do it will not go over 13 PSI no matter what i do to the mapping. i even went back to the original ECU that had revo stage 2 on it and it sits at 13psi and bleeds down to between 7 and 8. i bought the car as a test mule/experiment car, it had a bad K03 on which i replaced with an ebay K03 sport. the car had an ebay FMIC kit, ebay intake kit and forge splitter diverter valve and the atmospheric vent side is capped off. as i said in a previous post i had deleted the N249 in the all the emissions stuff of the engine and in the ECU. i smoke tested the whole intercooler system and vacuum system for leaks and put a new N75 on it still no love. i may go back to roots style trouble shooting and simply remove the vacuum from the wastegate and gently see if it will push over 13psi at all. i posted my last test tune i was working with along with the XDF and the the BIN from the ECU that came with the car. i dont have the right cable to use ME7logger so do just say post logs because its not going to happen.

Are you turning ESP or traction control off? It will limit torque and intervene if left on.
If your new turbos wastegate spring isnt properly tensioned, boost will be strange. KFLDIMX could correct that if thats the case. But only with logs can you determine that.
KFTARX affects boost based on intake temp maybe a longshot as a cause but i thought id mention it.
You also could be knocking therefore the ecu would follow LDRXNZK instead of LDRXN which is a stock boost profile through the rev range.
Theres too many possibilities to guess what it could be. Buy a cable for $10 and stop maxing tables that are safety interventions to stop you from blowing up your car (KFLDHBN).

actually the car does have a bad drivers front wheel speed sensor at the moment and i know when a wheel speed sensor is bad it shuts the traction control down. but what your saying is because i have a bad wheel speed sensor that would cause the whole problem? if thats the case thats the craziest thing i've ever seen or heard! i personally like the car without the ASR too, its really fun to drive. its so annoying when a car tries to get loose in the front and the trac kicks on to stop it.

not really worried about blowing it up, i got the car for something to experiment with on the cheap. i have 3 more engines sitting in reserve that i assembled from blow up cores that came out of other cars. i've been working on a sort of hybrid engine thats a 1.8 16V head on a late 1.8T bottom end too that i want to try. if that engine works it will be going on my sand rail with either ME7 or digifant 1. im leaning toward digifant 1 because its a much simpler fuel system to tune than ME7 by leaps and bounds. DF1 is as easy as add the MAP sensor you want, raise boost with an MBC to where you want it, and simply tune the timing and fuel tables to work with your setup. DF1 can be dumbed down so much that its really simple to setup and use. i set the DF1 ECU to run in open loop all the time so it follows the timing and fuel maps only and doesnt try to auto tune itself pretty much. simple and easy. i wish ME7 could be dumbed down like this,  most standalone fuel management systems arent this complicated because its completely unnecessary. the boost control in my VEMS ECU is a great example, you can use the primary PID loop or the secondary PWM settings which i use to keep it simple to control the N75. its a simple 12X12 table that is RPM on one axis and boost pressure on the other and the cell values are the N75's duty cycle pulse %. simple and effective.

Not saying that the wheel speed sensor could cause anything but having traction control active can limit torque or limit boost.

why do you have front lambda, vvt, and misfire detection disabled?

its disabled?? i must have done that by accident. did calculate the ESKONF wrong or in the on/off bits around 0x18190? ahhh, i'll just see if i can figure out what i did wrong there.

Do you want a working car or a broken car?

its about to be a parts car if it doesnt stop doing this or i'll rip all the ME7 out of it and install digifant 1 on it to see how a 1.8T works on that management. so far the 16V, 16VT, I5 10V, and I5 10V turbo have proven very strong and reliable on the old DF1.

If you don't post logs, I am going to lobotomize this thread, the same as you are talking about doing to your poor car.

Just because you have a lack of fundamental understanding of something doesn't mean that it is bad.

Read the manual. You are not a new member, you know the rules. You ask for help, you post logs. Laziness will not be tolerated here.

There's a log from VCDS, thats the only log im capable of capturing and generating.

engine RPM from group 113
specified load without correction from group 114
specified load after correction from group 114
N75 duty cycle from group 114
boost pressure specified from group 115
boost pressure actual from group 115

actual is no where near requested. leak.

Fixed that for you.

"it doesn't stop doing this"?

Doing what? You don't even know what is wrong with the car, let alone the turbos.

And duty is still 95% as it has been from the very beginning, and you keep ignoring that fact, and posting one useless post after another.

What do you think standalone is going to do if you can't even get your car set up properly mechanically?

Fix your hardware.

95% duty and no boost means something is broken. "tuning" is not the problem. Find a qualified mechanic who can diagnose your boost issues, then start considering tuning.

How do you know an MBC will work if you haven't even tried disconnecting the waste gate lines and seeing what kind of boost you get?

You seem to have zero understanding of even the basics of wastegate function, then complain that nobody is helping you.

To add insult to injury, you refuse to take the time to learn how to take proper logs.

And then AGAIN demand to know why nobody is helping you.

You really don't see why people are universally annoyed with your behavior? What, exactly, did you expect?

Repeating exactly what Nyet has said.  You said in the first couple of replies that you had replaced the K03s with a "K03 Sport" from eBay.  I'm gonna put it out there and say that it's a Chinese rep and that's your reason for no boost.

If you're Duty Cycle is 95% for most of the log - the ECU is holding the wastegate shut - so the turbo should produce loads of boost.  It's not.

Find out why it's not; be it a leak, bad wastegate, bad turbos, the wastegate penny not sealing, whatever.  You have a hardware issue, not a software.

i understand there is a mechanical problem with the car now. i smoked the charge piping again along with the vacuum system and it still comes up clean. im going to try to run it with the wastegate unhooked and see if it goes above 13 psi. you guys keep says 95% N75 duty cycle, so at 95% is the N75 almost closed or almost open? im used to VEMS where at 95% duty cycle the N75 is 5% away from being completely open thus full open wastegate. it sounds to me like you guys are saying that 95%duty cycle is making the gate only open about 5% thus the gate is only open just a little bit and the turbo is working its ass off to get to the target boost. so could anyone kindly explain which way is which? i know im a stupid idiot and i should go hang myself, you dont have to remind me twice.

95% is only used instead of 100% to prevent burning out the N75 solenoid.

In this case, 95% means all pressure is diverted away from the wastegate actuator, meaning the wastegate should be fully (100%) shut.

Interesting theory. I don't think these extra 5% will burn the solenoid. In practice I've been using 99% WGDC for max load and solenoid is working without problems. Of course if you have 99% wgdc it's time to think about bigger turbo.

You can change this in the flash if you want, but there is zero difference.

Have you been using 99% actual DC, or just mapped?  As DD said, you can change the max allowed, but it's not spoken about/done usually. 

You can request 100% surely, but it is capped by the limit, which is 95%?

Generally, sending constant DC current through any solenoid is a bad idea. It will eventually burn out.

retard alert in this thread

lol

i adjusted the actuator arm on the wastegate a little and managed to get 15psi out of it now. i think im just going to do away with this ebay FMIC setup as the problem has to be in it somewhere. i'll keep the the ebay intercooler as it fits well and i have an audi TT 225hp intake manifold that faces the drivers side that i want to install along with fab up some new intercooler piping. if there is a sort of leak its a boost leak and not a vacuum leak. like i said i used the smoke machine and smoked everything with no leaks and i even used the old school trick with spraying starting fluid on the intercooler pipes, vacuum lines and intake manifold. normally if there's a leak the car will either idle up or stall out if the starting fluid is sucked in while the car is running. it passed all them tests so i'll just have to rip this ebay kit off and see if i can find a split silicone or poorly made pipe that doesnt fit right.

That is still ridiculously low.

Did you try running with the wastegate hose disconnected?

A leak is a leak, it doesn't change because it's under vacuum/boost.  Is the intercooler solid?  Is that leaking?  If you've smoke tested it and NO smoke is coming out, at all, under pressurisation up to 40psi, there is no leak.

If you disconnect the wastegate line and still only make 15psi, your turbo is dead.

How about you take off the downpipe and visually inspect your turbo. Maybe there is something missing :-)

i didnt pressure test anything, just smoke. the turbo is brand new, i just installed it a little over a month ago. its been like this since day one. i never drove the car on the stock turbo as there was no compressor wheel left in it. it self machined the wheel down till it was just an aluminum cone. one of the many problems the car had and thus why i got it for a 1000 bucks. i mean i feel i scored because the car only has 144,000 miles, its an 02 150hp car originally, it had some cheapo manzo lowering spring on stock shocks, poly control arm bushings, the ebay FMIC setup, forge splitter diverter valve, 3in turbo back exhaust with cat delete of unknown origin, euro R32 bumpers and side skirts, the original ECU had a revo tune on it and thats about it. the bad was the shocks where shot so it got a raceland ultimo coilovers, the turbo was obviously shot so i just grabbed up a cheap ebay K03S, put some good tires on it. now the only thing that needs attention thats cosmetic is the paint, the idiots tried to paint the car some dodge blue color when the car was originally black. it looks like they threw a hand full of dirt in the pain when they was mixing it. other than that its just minor cosmetic details that the car needs like replacing missing and broken plastic interior pieces, getting it back to its original color, the bumpers are rigged to the car very poorly and it could use a new set of covers honestly, the exhaust was hung by wire and not the factory rubber hangers too, there was no tip on it at all and the exhaust blew part of the R32 fiberglass rear cover apart. its a bit of a mess but for a 1000 bucks i could part it out and make my money back and probably still end up ahead of the game even though i have money into fixing it in my attempt to keep it whole. oh it had some cheapo cold air intake on it too with a cheapo rusty air filter, thats been replaced with an intake setup i made that put the filter back in the engine bay with a heat shield and a new K&N filter that has a blox velocity stack. im also going to just re-do the intercooler piping because i have audi TT 225 HP intake manifold that faces the drivers side and i think i can make a better piping setup than the ebay one plus i like the path of the piping for the audi TT over the golf/jetta along with the audi TT engine plastics i have to put on it just for something different cosmetically.

Also make sure the inlet isn't collapsing, if you don't have 100% solid inlet piping from IC to turbo.

punctuation and paragraphs, man.

That, and 99% of that jibber jabber isn't really relevant to the problem :/

I just didn't read it cause it burned my eyes when I tried.

I have had a number of chinese turbos lately have the wastegate flappers get hung up on  the casting, causing them to perpetually stick open.

thats one i havnt seen happening yet. looks like i may have to take the downpipe off and check the flap.
what i was wondering also is what is a stock 180hp GTI supposed to run boost wise? worst case i'll just revert the car back to stock and start over with it. i still have all of the stock parts that came off of it. honestly i always hated working on or finishing someone elses projects, normally things are so out of whack from the start its easier to go back to stock and make the car run right before mods than it is to try and carry on with what they started.

0.8 bar boost at sea level on std k03

They should have no problem hitting a PR of 2.4... Depending on IC, that's easily 19psi or more.

Now, I'm not sure how long they'll last at those levels, but with the WG completely shut, it should hit at least 24-25 psi.

Yes, probably will do that with closed wg (maybe even at around 3000 rpm  ;D)
But stock flash you will see 0.8-0.9 bar at sea level. Never logged one driving up a mountain though.

If you see stock requesting 95% DC something is wrong.

I responded to this

Ah sorry. Big misunderstanding.