NefMoto

Alright so I basically just set the same values used here: http://www.myaudis4.com/stage-1/
My car is a completely stock '00 A6 2.7 with tip. I also disabled cat diag (one is bad), rear o2 aging, and SAI (wanted to ignore the cats and disable SAI). We don't have to smog our cars in central Oregon so that won't be an issue. I did a full backup of my stock 4B0907551L, and used 8D0907551L with the Nef stage1 xdf, and lastly I corrected the checksum on the modified bin. If I'm not mistaken I can flash my ECU with this modified 8D0907551L bin. Am I close here or am I way off?? I've attached the bin if someone would please review it :)

Post your XDF or your kp too.  Too many new people getting this part wrong.

Here's the xdf I used.

I'm tempted to flash the ECU tonight guys, stop me if I'm about to do something bad!

Looks like you added some timing to KFZW, took some out of KFZW2, and added some boost as well as fueling changes.

It's fine to flash. Go with god.

With your blessing it shall be done.

I just overlooked your year. 2000 is Bosch. The 551L is hitachi. You will need to convert it by copying MLOFS, KFKHFM, and MLHFM from a Bosch file.

Thanks for catching that, let me give it a shot!

Wow that was a bit of a learning curve. I copied the MLOFS, KFKHFM, and MLHFM from my original bin. Obviously the maps were in different locations but I managed to figure it out by searching for the headers which was the same for each. Here's the bin, let me know if it looks good!

Very good work :)

Next:

You might want to change CW_CAN_R to remove the "Missing message from instrument cluster" P1650 you're going to get :P

0x12C7A is the address. Default value is 35 decimal. Change it to 3.

Or flash as is, the code won't hurt anything!

Very nice I don't like pesky codes :) Found the value 23 hex (35 decimal) at that address and changed it to 03 hex (3 decimal), then corrected the checksums. Will flash a little later today. Thanks for your help thus far ddillenger!

I am happy to do so, especially after you didn't immediately follow up my maf post with easily searchable questions.

Good work. LMK if there is anything else you need!

Wheee it worked! Took it on the highway but didn't really give it WOT. I never really do but I might while I'm logging just so I can check for any issues like knock or boost leak to be safe (From what I read those are pretty important things to look for). Also got two faults regarding the brake booster sensor which I don't think my car has so can be ignored. Many thanks again, I will probably ask someone to go over my logs when I have a chance to do it.  8)

You can safely code out bkv in eskonf... (hi daz!)

HAI!

0x10C7B, C3--->F3

Then:

0x18198 and 0x18199 (CDBKV and CDDBKV) 01--->00.

That should be the end of that code.

Ha you guys are making it too easy now, I could have searched for it! Thanks nyet, daz :D

No problem, Andrew.

You're doing a great job, keep it up..

You're the kind of forum member that makes things easy :)

+1.

ESKONF is kinda scattered at the moment. It's not a problem to do a little hand holding there.

Well we recently had some nice sunny weather and road conditions have been dry, so I finally did some logging. ;D Now I'm still a novice when it comes to logging and figuring out what may be an issue, so I made a few charts with what I *think* is relevant data. I also attached the log in case these charts don't say enough. If I had to guess I would say it looks like it's taking too long to reach anywhere near requested boost, and perhaps there's a boost leak somewhere that isn't obvious (I haven't pressure tested yet, though I'm familiar with the procedure; also replaced the torn "DAS BOOT" shorty after buying the car). Another concern is knock voltage on one of the cylinders peaks at ~20volts, which may be on the high end? And lastly requested boost is lower than I think it should be, so I assume the ECU doesn't want to feed the beast until it's "safe" to do so. Whaddya think guys, am I on the right track? 8)

Had to compress the log to get it to save.

I limit is way too low, your actual boost isn't anywhere near requested.

Also, for that low boost, you are seeing a TON of timing correction, which makes no sense.

Do you have a wideband sensor? If not, I would not go any further w/o one.. or you need to diagnose your fueling. I suspect you are very lean.

nyet, if by wideband sensor you mean both pre-cat o2's then yes and they seem healthy. The ECU seems happy with all the sensors and data as I haven't had any faults logged for some time now. LTFT for both banks is typically +-1% which ought to be pretty darn good and indicate it's not trying to compensate for some unmeasured air, right?

No, I mean actual 3rd party aftermarket wideband, like zeitronix, that measures actual lambda (not just whether or not you are lambda 1, which is useless for tuning)


Yea, i would think so, but something is really awry with your timing :(

Then there must be a reason for the timing being pulled :P. Okay okay let me do some digging and present some ideas.  :)

Bad gas is the obvious answer.

I'd start by pulling a bunch of timing and see how far down you have to go to get 0 retard.

If you aren't running stock fueling (MAF, injectors) i'd not go any further w/o a wideband.

I'm running completely stock. I looked at EGT's which both showed 950, naturally. But "B_TABGBTS Condition: Exhaust gas temperature exceeded" is logging 1 during the pull. I then looked in TunerPro under Scalers -> TABGBTS and it's set to 499.99 grad C, which I would be above the limit in no time, no? Is it because the S4 uses different EGT's?

Found Flyboy mentioning something similar here, reply #612:
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6695.600
"I also noticed that with the stock TABGBTS the modeled EGT is above the threshold immediately."

I created a new topic under diagnostics before going further here.
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9731.0title=