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Author Topic: had a malfunction with my actuator now apparantly knock?  (Read 2231 times)
stuartdean
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« on: May 25, 2019, 08:42:30 AM »

Hi,

I had a hybrid turbo repaired (screeching and smoking) and whilst it was away was tuning a stock turbo with an 11psi actuator - this was great fun and I got quite a neat controllable map on my TT (Forged Rods, Chinafold Mani, 550 bosch injectors, DW65V fuel pump, Badger5 TIP and open cone filter, plus 3 inch downpipe, 3 inch toyosports cat back exhaust, FMIC)

when I put the hybrid on I didn't return the map back and according to a log I took the next day the boost went off the chart at some pace and managed to blow out the manifold to turbo gasket.  well since that "incident" I am struggling to get a good run without seeing knock degrees in the logs where-as previously I would only see this sort of thing on a high boost, high load log.  I have kept the generous fueling but rolled the load and PID right back but still get these readings in the log.  it is actually quite warm here 25 degree's and I have only got 97 octane fuel instead of 99 - but is there something else I am missing - the AIT are over 30?

I have attached a log from this afternoon.  considering 2 weeks ago with a stock turbo I was getting 225g/s with releatively low knock.

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stuartdean
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« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2019, 03:56:58 PM »

okay, I am rolling back to a stock(ish) map and going to have to tiggle it back up to try and find out whether this is damage, settings or environment.
A car "feeling" okay as we all know means nothing, logs dont lie (hopefully)

what is a worry is I have spent a shed load on a new "proper hybrid" from AET (V262C ~370bhp) rather than the constructed turbo of a hybrid CHRA in a stock housing and chinese ported hotside.  but I dont want to risk this incredible bit of hardware in an untrustworthy car.

unless anyone has any bright ideas for why I am now getting ignition retard degrees on all 4 cylinders - I understand this is based on knock events.  what can cause knock - could it simply be rubbish fuel and hot outside air temp - or more likely oil in blow-by due to 30+psi breaking / weakening something?


so for my desperate test?

Change MAF (just incase the g/s readings are reading low and confusing the rest of the car?)
Clean Intake Turbo Pipe
Clean Catch-Can
Replace and Gap Spark Plugs


Start from a stock map
   Update injector settings TVUB
   Reset FKKIVS to 1 - until collecting 30 minutes varied driving to create settings using the tool from here
   Update Fuelling LAMFA for last 2 lines
   Setup the PID to be linear and limited (until completing fixed wastegate runs and running the app from here to create the table)
   Keep stock load
   map out post cat o2 sensor


  use 99 octane instead of 97
  pick a cool morning or evening






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aleks19411
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« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2019, 01:30:44 PM »

does the ignition angle shift produce results? What spark plugs do you use? and what is the fuel pressure at the same time? Smiley
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