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Author Topic: 1.8T BAM Tune for GTX 2867 gen 2 Turbo (from stage 2)  (Read 11391 times)
K92
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« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2020, 04:53:09 AM »

"Knows his shit", yet mixed up oil and water lines and thought charge pipe was an intake lol. Clearly takes more brain power to be helpful...
Grin
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adam-
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« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2020, 05:33:57 AM »

"Knows his shit", yet mixed up oil and water lines and thought charge pipe was an intake lol. Clearly takes more brain power to be helpful...

It's very difficult to see the oil line and the line you have does look like one.  He'll mean intake to the engine.  T-bolt clamps are shit. 
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_nameless
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« Reply #17 on: June 16, 2020, 06:02:43 AM »

so what was the point in posting the picture in the first place? proud of your work?...  lol
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prj
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« Reply #18 on: June 16, 2020, 10:21:43 AM »

"Knows his shit", yet mixed up oil and water lines and thought charge pipe was an intake lol. Clearly takes more brain power to be helpful...
Hey you cunt, slow down.

T-Bolt clamps do not belong anywhere in the intake end of story.
Anyone who fits a T-Bolt clamp on the intake has no experience or grasp or physics, there are very simple reasons for that, which can be answered by anyone who understands the relationship between pressure and area it is applied to. All a T-bolt clamp does anywhere in the intake (btw a CHARGE pipe is a part of an engine's intake/induction system), is make pipes oval and leak boost.
Oil or water line, I don't care what it is, and how you rotated your bodge. It is ridiculous.

With this attitude on here you won't go very far.
Also, I hope your shit blows up a few times in your face, so you learn the lesson of either doing something properly or not at all.
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Blazius
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« Reply #19 on: June 16, 2020, 11:57:48 AM »

I gotta agree with tbolts. They do not spread the pressure out evenly , which basically makes a hotpoint on the clamping pressure applied. Worm drives spread it out.
Worm drives are also used in Formula 1. Get rid of the 300 silicon joiners and tbolts, and I'd move the pipes out from the engine bay too for less heatsoak.

 Here  is a good read on worm gear vs tbolt : https://www.amsperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Worm_Gear_Clamp.pdf

I know what you are doing I've done the same thing when first started, but trust me and others its good to do it halfway decent sooner than later.
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Kompiesto
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« Reply #20 on: June 17, 2020, 01:59:55 AM »

What is this topic about? I use T-Bolt Clamp in all projects. I didn't see any boost leak problems when i tunning those cars. Too much unnecessary joints / silicones,  horrible to looking at this.

You need made lot of changes in file. I think you must made new maps  Is good to start from calibrate injectors/new maf without boost. Upping TQ limits and slighty retard timing for higher load. Next calibrate ldrpid. Usually if i dont know turbo i make short log runs with variety ped% and log WGDC & Boost to make base ldr maps. After made primary things i work with ignition, afr and move TQ limits for some safety.

I think people should starts seach because is a lot of similar topics.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2020, 03:01:33 AM by Kompiesto » Logged
Tobs123
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« Reply #21 on: June 17, 2020, 03:27:27 AM »

Hey you cunt, slow down.

T-Bolt clamps do not belong anywhere in the intake end of story.
Anyone who fits a T-Bolt clamp on the intake has no experience or grasp or physics, there are very simple reasons for that, which can be answered by anyone who understands the relationship between pressure and area it is applied to. All a T-bolt clamp does anywhere in the intake (btw a CHARGE pipe is a part of an engine's intake/induction system), is make pipes oval and leak boost.
Oil or water line, I don't care what it is, and how you rotated your bodge. It is ridiculous.

With this attitude on here you won't go very far.
Also, I hope your shit blows up a few times in your face, so you learn the lesson of either doing something properly or not at all.

No sorry mate, you started being a cunt...and that kind of blew up in your face  Grin Grin what part of work in progress do you not understand? All these pipes are getting fabricated but need setting up to check measurements. Think twice next time before being a negative prick for the sake of it
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Tobs123
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« Reply #22 on: June 17, 2020, 03:35:26 AM »

I gotta agree with tbolts. They do not spread the pressure out evenly , which basically makes a hotpoint on the clamping pressure applied. Worm drives spread it out.
Worm drives are also used in Formula 1. Get rid of the 300 silicon joiners and tbolts, and I'd move the pipes out from the engine bay too for less heatsoak.

 Here  is a good read on worm gear vs tbolt : https://www.amsperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Worm_Gear_Clamp.pdf

I know what you are doing I've done the same thing when first started, but trust me and others its good to do it halfway decent sooner than later.

Yes they are far from ideal. Thanks very much for your suggestions. Pipes are getting fabricated next week but needed to knock something up to test measurements. Still drives really well considering, so very pleased so far
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Tobs123
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« Reply #23 on: June 17, 2020, 03:40:21 AM »

so what was the point in posting the picture in the first place? proud of your work?...  lol

Yes I am mate. First time I ever did anything like this and puts loads of hard work into it, as you should know if you done it, getting it all to work in that car isn't easy. Engine sounds really sweet and already lovely to drive. Seriously couldn't be happier...The clue to this topic is the title and that it appears in the tunning section. Had no idea posting a work-in-progress pic would draw so many old negtive armchair cranks out of the woodwork. Glad I did now actually
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Tobs123
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« Reply #24 on: June 17, 2020, 03:43:35 AM »

What is this topic about? I use T-Bolt Clamp in all projects. I didn't see any boost leak problems when i tunning those cars. Too much unnecessary joints / silicones,  horrible to looking at this.

You need made lot of changes in file. I think you must made new maps  Is good to start from calibrate injectors/new maf without boost. Upping TQ limits and slighty retard timing for higher load. Next calibrate ldrpid. Usually if i dont know turbo i make short log runs with variety ped% and log WGDC & Boost to make base ldr maps. After made primary things i work with ignition, afr and move TQ limits for some safety.

I think people should starts seach because is a lot of similar topics.

Thanks for your suggestions mate, really helpful :-) Yeah posting a pic (in absence of any logs, which I will once I can!) was a bit much for too many people. The clue to topic is in the title and the fact that its in the tunning section. Yes T-Clamps although temporary are working just fine. Its an old 20 year old car and just a fun project.
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Kompiesto
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« Reply #25 on: June 17, 2020, 03:54:21 AM »

I dont check this but maybe will be helpfully topic (file), could be very similar file : http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=15045.0



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Tobs123
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« Reply #26 on: June 17, 2020, 09:04:25 AM »

Cheers man thanks for this. Thanks for the helpful comments, got some good point. Shame prevailing attitude amoung some cranky members. As for PRJ...think he just needs to get laid or something lol
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Tobs123
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« Reply #27 on: June 17, 2020, 09:19:10 AM »

Cheers man thanks for this. Thanks for the helpful comments, got some good points. Shame prevailing attitude among some cranky members. As for PRJ...think he just needs to get laid or something lol. Chill guys, its meant to be fun!!
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