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Author Topic: 1.8T Conversion from 1.6FSI "BAD" to / AGU with AUM Electronics.  (Read 676 times)
simplegek
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Hello dear Nefmoto community,
Thanks to all of you here, I was inspired to convert my car into a 1.8T. It took me a few weeks of hard work, during which I learned an incredible amount and gained valuable knowledge, all while tackling tasks I had never attempted before.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:

    Swapped to an AGU (K03) engine, using an AUM wiring harness and sensors, but without VVT.
    The ECU (06A906032FK) was cross-flashed to a 06A906032HJ.
    IMMO3 is adapted, and I prefer to keep it enabled.
    Installed an EVS gearbox (new clutch, new dual-mass flywheel).
    Currently, there is no catalytic converter, but one will be installed in the future to meet regulations, potentially for Euro 3.

Software Adjustments:

    Catalytic converter diagnostics are disabled.
    SAI is disabled.
    EVAP is disabled.
    KRKTE was adjusted but might not be accurate.

My Questions and Challenges:

    Would it be advantageous to enable the EVAP functionality from the AUM?
    If VVT diagnostics are disabled, do I need to adjust anything in the VVT maps?
    I've been studying tuning for about a week now, including the wiki, and I’m making progress on adapting the emissions standards. However, I’ve hit a few understanding barriers.

ECU and KRKTE Details:

The ECU is an HJ from the AUM. The original KRKTE was 0.10301, but the AGU injectors are 317ccm³. My rough calculation gave me a value of approximately 0.1250. Is this value correct? The larger the KRKTE, the greater the base injection time, correct?
Lambda Values:

    Idle: ~1.015
    Part throttle: 1 to 0.750
    Full throttle: 0.820 to 0.920 (depending on driving behavior).

However, full throttle feels a bit lean to me.
My Goals:

I want to better understand the relationship between ignition, boost, and torque. My ultimate goal is to achieve 250Nm torque and around 185-190hp with a K03 turbo, targeting a maximum/peak of 0.7 bar.

    Are there tables other than KFFDLBTS responsible for enrichment?
    What does FKKVS do?
    My LAMFA is almost entirely set to 1. Is this standard?
    Do I need to adjust NORLA? I don't have an EGR system.
    How can I harmoniously work toward this goal?

I’m still learning and would deeply appreciate any tips, advice, or general information.
I’ve attached a trimmed log file for reference, in case it’s helpful.

Thank you very much!
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aef
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« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2024, 12:01:32 AM »

Something is very wrong

try to revert back to stock and start from scratch
dont tune anything
drive and log with baseboost (unplug n75 connector)
check your fuel feed and return
check your fuel pressure

you should have working lambda and adaptions with reasonable injection times (search nefmoto for other logs and compare to have a general understanding about logs and how big numbers should be)

you dont want to see fuel injector on time ti_b1 with a 3 digit number lol
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simplegek
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« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2024, 06:56:32 AM »

Something is very wrong

try to revert back to stock and start from scratch
dont tune anything
drive and log with baseboost (unplug n75 connector)
check your fuel feed and return
check your fuel pressure

you should have working lambda and adaptions with reasonable injection times (search nefmoto for other logs and compare to have a general understanding about logs and how big numbers should be)

you dont want to see fuel injector on time ti_b1 with a 3 digit number lol



Hello and thank you for your message.

I've decided to bring everything back to stock settings today.

    KRKTE has been set to 0.10301, and all relevant parameters like boost, ignition, etc., are now at AUM standard.
    Fuel pressure is stable at 3 bar with a minor difference of approximately ±0.100 mbar.

I ran two logs: one with the N75 connected and one without it.

However, with KRKTE at the stock adjustment, the engine runs very lean. According to the Lambda readings, it reaches around 1.0 Lambda at full load. It should ideally be around 0.850, correct?

Additionally, my boost pressure is no longer as synchronized as it was before.

The injection times you mentioned have remained below 20 ms.

I also checked for any leaks but couldn't identify any.

At this point, I’m considering increasing the KRKTE value again to provide more fuel injection and achieve a healthier Lambda value.

Do you have any tips or further ideas on what else I could check or adjust?

Thank you in advance!

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prj
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« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2024, 07:09:05 AM »

Fuel pressure is stable at 3 bar with a minor difference of approximately ±0.100 mbar.

That's not right, it's not a returnless fuel system.
On idle you should have around 2.5 bar and on boost close to 4 bar.

If your fuel pressure is constant at 3 bar then there's your problem. Measure fuel pressure on full load, it should be 3 bar + boost.
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simplegek
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2024, 07:25:36 AM »

That's not right, it's not a returnless fuel system.
On idle you should have around 2.5 bar and on boost close to 4 bar.

If your fuel pressure is constant at 3 bar then there's your problem. Measure fuel pressure on full load, it should be 3 bar + boost.

Hey, thanks for the quick response!  Smiley

Alright, I need to sort this out today or tomorrow. I’ll probably buy some longer hoses so I can monitor it while driving.

Do you think this could be related to the fuel pressure regulator, or is it more likely an issue with the fuel pump?

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aef
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« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2024, 08:31:55 AM »

Krkte Cheat:
AUM Krkte * AUM Injector cc = Cheatnumber
Cheatnumber / AGU Injector cc = new KRKTE

If your KRKTE is correct then please check your fuel system. You have no fuel at all.
Its super lean and the injection time is super high for the condition (no boost, no load)
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simplegek
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« Reply #6 on: December 19, 2024, 11:13:55 AM »

That's not right, it's not a returnless fuel system.
On idle you should have around 2.5 bar and on boost close to 4 bar.

If your fuel pressure is constant at 3 bar then there's your problem. Measure fuel pressure on full load, it should be 3 bar + boost.

Krkte Cheat:
AUM Krkte * AUM Injector cc = Cheatnumber
Cheatnumber / AGU Injector cc = new KRKTE

If your KRKTE is correct then please check your fuel system. You have no fuel at all.
Its super lean and the injection time is super high for the condition (no boost, no load)

So, I actually had two problems. My pump was only delivering 3 bar.

Additionally, the donor engine had a 3-bar pressure regulator, which I’m not sure was incorrect or just defective.

I’ve now resolved this: I have 3 bar at idle, and with 1 bar boost, the fuel pressure reaches 4 bar and scales accordingly.

I also adjusted KRKTE using the cheat code.

I’ll do a test run in the coming days and post the results here.

It already feels significantly better in the higher RPM range.
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prj
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« Reply #7 on: December 19, 2024, 12:47:17 PM »

If you have 3 bar at idle then you have some kind of leak somewhere or regulator is bad.
On idle you should have regulator nominal pressure - intake pressure.

So definitely not 3 bar, unless the engine is super cold. Should be 2.5.
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