Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13]
Author Topic: Hitting max ps_w/rl_w and fueling  (Read 150418 times)
Bische
Sr. Member
****

Karma: +25/-4
Offline Offline

Posts: 397



WWW
« Reply #180 on: January 07, 2013, 12:00:50 PM »

Hey man,

I don't think you're being an ass... an it certainly is time consuming, that's the only reason I haven't done it yet is because I haven't had much time to work on it...
And I certainly wasn't asking for someone to do it for me... just anything that would cut down on the time it would take.
Can you point me in the direction of your stock binary please? For some reason I couldn't find it... maybe I was looking for the wrong thing...

Anyway one of the reasons I suggested a get together and tweak was because of some of the other ideas for tweaks and features that I have... very sorry if it came over as me being a lazy asshole because that is far from what I meant to do.

I've been too busy working on the car (Build thread on AZ http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/505784-My-first-Audi-2001-5-S4-with-Custom-Single-Turbo-setup) and working at work to mess with the decompile yet...

Alright, but if you dont have the time to tackle such additional project, you will be better off putting this on hold until you can free up some time for it.

I skimmed through your build, an from what I can see you have plenty of other parts of your tune to rectify before doing the 5120 hack. Dont get me wrong here, but if you was to start implement this at your current state, you would only add soo many more potentional problems. Start tuning your first boost PID with ALL the pressures scaled is just asking for trouble.

And, running at 18psi, you still have like 4psi left in there before youre hitting any caps. I dont have much experience with tuning a 2.7t, but at ~22psi I know it will output an assload of power even on pump gas, at least enough for other things around to start breaking down..

If I were you I would shoot for 22ish and get it running 100%, verify it runs good. And then with dedicated time, start to take steps get the most out of it. Hell, thats just my 2cents, do as you please - the info is there. My ECU number is 8E0909518M.

Speaking from experience, it is a lot more work to rigorously *document* a coherent, unified, generalized, correct list of changes (that anybody can read and implement) than it is to hack together a bunch of stuff by memory and voodoo.

That said, you might find that making such a list helps your project along... and forcing yourself to do so also exposes flaws in your approach and reasoning, and often exposes mistakes.

People generally pretend they don't want to do this because they think it is giving a handout. They're wrong, imo. If you can't explain something such that anybody can understand and use it, you likely don't understand it 100% yourself Smiley

Yes, it is a lot of work. Nobody likes documenting what they do.. its no fun, its time consuming, and it almost always delays project completion.

And as far as noob questions go; you know you are DONE when nobody asks you questions anymore. As long as there is somebody asking, you know your documentation is incomplete. Which is another side benefit of an exhaustive, general explanation: it cuts out 99% of the questions.

Just my two cents.

I 100% agree on all you said.

Even if I was to do such extensive project on my own and not planning to post it, I would still write down what I did, just for the reasons you mention. My first "documentation" (hand written in swedish/german, I write bad as fuck) was not looking anything like the proper list I posted, if I was not to write a clean version of it, LOL no one would have understood it [Cheesy]

I dont mind documenting, though I agree its not fun since it steals potential progress, but I have at least gone back to my own notes 50times+ to back check. Without having it documented, one would need to trace those damn diagrams AGAIN just to refresh their mind for that specific reasoning/logic behind a change. I can with ease say I have saved time for myself during this project, due to documentation.


Update:

I can verify it is fho_w that kills b_kh, via FHOKH. Flashed the car today with FHOKH = 0 and I have cold started the car 3 times, turnkey one motion, all with KH Smiley

I am attaching a graph from todays log, and i will start wroking on the .ols to post up.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2013, 12:02:26 PM by Bische » Logged
britishturbo
Sr. Member
****

Karma: +14/-1
Offline Offline

Posts: 306


« Reply #181 on: January 07, 2013, 12:30:42 PM »

Alright, but if you dont have the time to tackle such additional project, you will be better off putting this on hold until you can free up some time for it.

I skimmed through your build, an from what I can see you have plenty of other parts of your tune to rectify before doing the 5120 hack. Dont get me wrong here, but if you was to start implement this at your current state, you would only add soo many more potentional problems. Start tuning your first boost PID with ALL the pressures scaled is just asking for trouble.

And, running at 18psi, you still have like 4psi left in there before youre hitting any caps. I dont have much experience with tuning a 2.7t, but at ~22psi I know it will output an assload of power even on pump gas, at least enough for other things around to start breaking down..

If I were you I would shoot for 22ish and get it running 100%, verify it runs good. And then with dedicated time, start to take steps get the most out of it. Hell, thats just my 2cents, do as you please - the info is there. My ECU number is 8E0909518M.


I 100% agree on all you said.

Even if I was to do such extensive project on my own and not planning to post it, I would still write down what I did, just for the reasons you mention. My first "documentation" (hand written in swedish/german, I write bad as fuck) was not looking anything like the proper list I posted, if I was not to write a clean version of it, LOL no one would have understood it [Cheesy]

I dont mind documenting, though I agree its not fun since it steals potential progress, but I have at least gone back to my own notes 50times+ to back check. Without having it documented, one would need to trace those damn diagrams AGAIN just to refresh their mind for that specific reasoning/logic behind a change. I can with ease say I have saved time for myself during this project, due to documentation.


Update:

I can verify it is fho_w that kills b_kh, via FHOKH. Flashed the car today with FHOKH = 0 and I have cold started the car 3 times, turnkey one motion, all with KH Smiley

I am attaching a graph from todays log, and i will start wroking on the .ols to post up.

You are 100% in line with my plan. I'm not going to do the map hack until I'm running 100% at 22psi.
I just like to plan ahead ;-)

Thanks for all your hard work for the community!
Logged
nyet
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: +607/-168
Offline Offline

Posts: 12268


WWW
« Reply #182 on: January 07, 2013, 12:56:06 PM »

And, running at 18psi, you still have like 4psi left in there before youre hitting any caps. I dont have much experience with tuning a 2.7t, but at ~22psi I know it will output an assload of power even on pump gas, at least enough for other things around to start breaking down..

If I were you I would shoot for 22ish and get it running 100%, verify it runs good. And then with dedicated time, start to take steps get the most out of it. Hell, thats just my 2cents, do as you please - the info is there. My ECU number is 8E0909518M.

Easier said than done. 18 is easy, 22, not so much. The PID needs at least 4-5 psi headroom to work properly w/o resorting to WGDC capping games.

You are 100% in line with my plan. I'm not going to do the map hack until I'm running 100% at 22psi.

Start with 21-20 psi Smiley

22psi spike is fine, but for 100% PID control you have to be below 21.

Logged

ME7.1 tuning guide
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum
Trim heatmap tool

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
britishturbo
Sr. Member
****

Karma: +14/-1
Offline Offline

Posts: 306


« Reply #183 on: January 07, 2013, 12:59:07 PM »

Easier said than done. 18 is easy, 22, not so much. The PID needs at least 4-5 psi headroom to work properly w/o resorting to WGDC capping games.

This is very true. Without headroom a pid system will be out of control. So I will be needing it soon...
I deal with closed loop pid systems at work all the time. We build CNC controls and machines...
Logged
britishturbo
Sr. Member
****

Karma: +14/-1
Offline Offline

Posts: 306


« Reply #184 on: January 07, 2013, 01:03:42 PM »

I'm actually the PID and drive tuning guru at work lol
Logged
mightemouce
Full Member
***

Karma: +1/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 67


« Reply #185 on: February 06, 2013, 01:03:07 PM »

So if I made sense of this correctly I should be able to update the tables on the first page of this thread and still run my stock 2.5 bar map sensor but all the readings should be half of what they actually are until DSLGRAD and DSLOFS are scaled correctly and larger map sensor is installed.
Logged
britishturbo
Sr. Member
****

Karma: +14/-1
Offline Offline

Posts: 306


« Reply #186 on: February 06, 2013, 01:06:02 PM »

So if I made sense of this correctly I should be able to update the tables on the first page of this thread and still run my stock 2.5 bar map sensor but all the readings should be half of what they actually are until DSLGRAD and DSLOFS are scaled correctly and larger map sensor is installed.

Refer to the 5120 thread at the top of this section :-)
Logged
mightemouce
Full Member
***

Karma: +1/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 67


« Reply #187 on: February 06, 2013, 01:53:31 PM »

After posting I noticed this should have been in there instead Whoops  Embarrassed
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Page created in 0.026 seconds with 17 queries. (Pretty URLs adds 0s, 0q)