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prj
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« Reply #15 on: July 09, 2016, 11:29:53 AM »
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Id disable the whole lot, even the temperature maps. Mines completely mapped out and dont get any bucking or jerking on part load or anything. And mines a full on track car with 3.5kg flywheel.
You have no idea what it does. There is not supposed to be bucking or jerking on part load. There are very specific circumstances when it does something. That said - on track cars, just turn that off. I'd turn off the entire torque model on a track car and make the throttle follow pedal. Or even better, use a proper standalone with a proper dash and proper logging. Also I am not sure why this is relevant on a Seadoo. |
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Tshirt2k
Full Member
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« Reply #16 on: July 09, 2016, 12:02:57 PM »
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I'm pretty confident you have the ability to learn how to disassemble the code and find RAM locations  Thanks.  I'll look into it. |
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carsey
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« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2016, 04:29:10 AM »
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TBH, my car runs perfect with it fully turned off, on track and on the street. mapped by one of the leading tuners in ME7 in the UK. Delta gains even on a STOCK map just by tuning it off are huge. Then again, not many people on here like 'stripping down' a ECU to make it work entirely like a standalone would. Id much rather a stripped down me7 ECU than run standalone as much more refined and more safety nets in place than a lot of other standalone systems.
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #18 on: July 10, 2016, 09:03:05 AM »
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Then again, not many people on here like 'stripping down' a ECU to make it work entirely like a standalone would. Id much rather a stripped down me7 ECU than run standalone as much more refined and more safety nets in place than a lot of other standalone systems. this was exactly my goal. to numb down the me17 so that it only is controlling needed basic functions while still being "safe". reduce KR, turn off other torque monitors that may interfere, etc. try to take back control from the ecu as much as possible. |
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nubcake
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« Reply #19 on: July 10, 2016, 09:25:01 AM »
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The irony is in the fact, that a lot of the "safety" features are based on torque model. EDIT: By the way, most of the current Bosch Motorsport ECUs are torque-based as well. Not implying anything, just a random fact. |
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #20 on: July 10, 2016, 10:07:36 AM »
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The irony is in the fact, that a lot of the "safety" features are based on torque model. EDIT: By the way, most of the current Bosch Motorsport ECUs are torque-based as well. Not implying anything, just a random fact. in the boat ecu a lot seem based on load %, 100% throttle = 100% load, and intake air temp or water lake/coolant temp. limp mode from faulty brake lever i saw in a scan last night. |
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prj
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« Reply #21 on: July 10, 2016, 11:14:55 PM »
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Delta gains even on a STOCK map just by tuning it off are huge. That's because it wasn't tuned right. If ARMD is set up correctly there is zero difference in max power with it on and off, simply because it isn't doing anything whatsoever at WOT. If it is doing something on WOT it's not working the way it was intended. It's easy to turn everything off instead of understanding how something works, and what something does. Same goes about the torque model. If tuned right there is zero intervention from it on high load. |
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prj
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« Reply #22 on: July 10, 2016, 11:18:41 PM »
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EDIT: By the way, most of the current Bosch Motorsport ECUs are torque-based as well. Not implying anything, just a random fact. That's correct. But then again, they are tuned by people who know how the ECU works and what it is doing. Most people calling themselves tuners have no idea how even the simplest features work in ME and thus lots of myths are born. Of course when some feature is calibrated totally wrong turning it off will produce an instant result. For example - if you have something banging against the block so the ECU is registering tons of knock when none is there, if you turn it off you will get lots more power instantly. It's easy to then say that the "knock control is shit" instead of fixing your car or fixing the cal. |
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carsey
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« Reply #23 on: July 11, 2016, 02:57:51 AM »
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That's because it wasn't tuned right. If ARMD is set up correctly there is zero difference in max power with it on and off, simply because it isn't doing anything whatsoever at WOT. If it is doing something on WOT it's not working the way it was intended.
It's easy to turn everything off instead of understanding how something works, and what something does. Same goes about the torque model. If tuned right there is zero intervention from it on high load.
Completely factory tune as from the factory.... |
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carsey
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« Reply #24 on: July 11, 2016, 03:22:55 AM »
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All these are completely stock maps just with the ARMD functions removed. Makes a bit of difference I think....
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« Last Edit: July 11, 2016, 03:26:48 AM by carsey »
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nubcake
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« Reply #25 on: July 11, 2016, 01:20:05 PM »
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All these are completely stock maps just with the ARMD functions removed. Makes a bit of difference I think....
Well, why do you expect stock ARMD calibrations to remain valid for whatever you changed in those cars? It has to be recalibrated, just like everything else. As prj noted above: "If ARMD is set up correctly there is zero difference in max power with it on and off, simply because it isn't doing anything whatsoever at WOT." Your graphs clearly show it being active under WOT conditions, which is simply wrong. |
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« Last Edit: July 11, 2016, 01:22:59 PM by nubcake »
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prj
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« Reply #26 on: July 11, 2016, 01:24:32 PM »
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Completely factory tune as from the factory....
Except your car isn't factory. DUH. Also, IME it will trigger on dyno in conditions where it will not trigger on the road. |
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nyet
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« Reply #27 on: July 11, 2016, 01:44:48 PM »
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Also, IME it will trigger on dyno in conditions where it will not trigger on the road.
ABSOLUTELY TRUE. Again, put a car on a dyno with zero load - it is equivalent to a very light car. Actual RPM is way higher than the ARMD RPM model predicts... |
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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adam-
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« Reply #28 on: July 11, 2016, 03:00:23 PM »
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Following. This is an already interesting read.
Are you saying on a totally stock car (the ones that Chris posted), on the road, will not experience the timing oscillations that they're seeing? How do you calibrate it?
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nyet
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« Reply #29 on: July 11, 2016, 04:01:34 PM »
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Are you saying on a totally stock car (the ones that Chris posted), on the road, will not experience the timing oscillations that they're seeing? How do you calibrate it?
ARMD should not trigger stock. It should be calibrated to sense bucking, not normal WOT accel. prj's argument is that even a stock car might experience bucking under sudden wot, and that is what ARMD is supposed to curtail. But if you roll on, it should not. And if you do slam on it hard, stock, it may trigger *once*, but should not go into a feedback loop (timing cut, restoration, buck detect, timing cut, etc). |
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« Last Edit: July 11, 2016, 04:04:12 PM by nyet »
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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