orienz
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« on: October 23, 2011, 04:29:23 AM »
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Hey guys,
I am trying to modify torque control maps after I upgraded to 80mm HEMI throttle body. I am using Eurodyne Maestro editor and under torque control we have 4 maps available.
- "Accelerator pedal map" (determines how much torque is requested at what pedal %, x,y axis are RPM and Pedal %, values are in Torque %).
- "Throttle angle vs airflow" map (marks the mass airflow through TB at certain angle. x,y axis are RPM and Airflow (kg/hr), values are in TPS). This maps also reflects AlphaN map that we have under "Fueling".
- "Target filling" map (determines load at requested torque % @ certain RPM ?, x,y axis are Torque %, RPM, values are in Cylinder filling % (i think this is load %)).
- "Optimum engine torque" map (No idea what this map does, it seem to be reflecting Target filling map, x,y axis are % Cylinder filling, RPM...values are in Torque %).
So those are the maps we can modify to dial in larger throttle body since we do not have MAF on these files. Right now fueling is all over the place of course due to more air entering the engine under same TB angle.
How would you approach this problem? I found most of these maps in RS4 stock file (which I believe has 75mm throttle body). Could I use this somehow? Or different characteristics of the engines will throw these off totally?
Thanks for any help.
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nyet
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« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2011, 02:15:12 PM »
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Stupid question:
Why not start with the throttle angle vs airflow map? Or am I missing something?
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2011, 02:30:21 PM »
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Going mafless IMO is a big no no with ME7... it's always best not to trick it.
That said, I had the chance to use Maestro yesterday and wow what a POS software that is.
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nyet
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« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2011, 02:37:18 PM »
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I agree
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orienz
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« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2011, 03:22:18 PM »
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Yea I agree that going MAFLESS is not the best thing to do but well...it's the only option right now until I recirculate the blow off valve.
nyet, is there ANY way to calculate this map? I wouldn't know what values to start with to be honest. Shall I just...guess?
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nyet
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« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2011, 04:47:25 PM »
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Dunno. Honestly, you're looking for a world of hurt. The amount of knowledge/effort to get ME7 mafless is likely to far exceed just tuning it properly.
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orienz
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« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2011, 02:50:51 AM »
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This same mafless file has been running flawless on stock throttle body, it's upgrading to 80mm TB that threw everything off :-/
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ejg3855
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« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2011, 05:29:55 AM »
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Yea I agree that going MAFLESS is not the best thing to do but well...it's the only option right now until I recirculate the blow off valve.
Blow Thru  |
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orienz
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« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2011, 10:12:28 AM »
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What's that?
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2011, 10:20:44 AM »
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It's when the MAF is installed in the charge air path
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orienz
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2011, 10:49:30 AM »
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Isn't that a bit unreliable? and won't MAF get wrong readings like that? since air enters under pressure there...
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s5fourdoor
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2011, 11:00:43 AM »
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man, you should just look into running a pro-m maf. way more upside in that than eliminating the MAF logic...
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2011, 11:02:45 AM »
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Isn't that a bit unreliable? and won't MAF get wrong readings like that? since air enters under pressure there...
I'm sorry but don't you find it funny you're worried about wrong readings when you have DELETED your MAF on a system that relies on a MAF sensor as a PRIMARY load input and also was never designed to run MAFless? Either way, no it won't get wrong readings if you've properly scaled your MAF for that setup. |
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s5fourdoor
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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2011, 11:08:46 AM »
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call pro-m racing, they could solve this problem using a common mustang maf. you'd know your exact kg/hr - buy the extra 30point calibration sheet for $75. all you need is an interpolation to go from 30point to 512 point used in ME7. i'm going to do this. in fact, i bought 4-pin connectors so that i can hot-swap the bosch maf, hitachi maf, and eventual pro-m maf.
no brainer if you ask me. run a stock airbox / maf in the winter for mountain-ish, switch back to the high-flow maf / open-filter during warmer weather. not much different than swapping winter tires to gumballs+wheels....
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2011, 11:19:00 AM »
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sounds complicated.. why not just run the pro-m all year round?
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