NefMoto > Technical > Tuning > ATP GT28 eliminator help on 1.8t 225
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Author Topic: ATP GT28 eliminator help on 1.8t 225  (Read 6022 times)
woody
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« on: July 20, 2016, 02:22:47 AM »
Has anyone got any experience with these ATP turbos
I have a 1.8t BAM with steel rods full exhaust/decat
Forge inter cooler
Bosch green 440s and this turbo
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_nameless
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« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2016, 05:23:41 AM »
Quote from: woody on July 20, 2016, 02:22:47 AM
Has anyone got any experience with these ATP turbos
I have a 1.8t BAM with steel rods full exhaust/decat
Forge inter cooler
Bosch green 440s and this turbo


i just did a 28/67 on a 225 tt a few weeks ago
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ianpgonzaga
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« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2016, 05:32:39 AM »
Quote from: woody on July 20, 2016, 02:22:47 AM
Has anyone got any experience with these ATP turbos
I have a 1.8t BAM with steel rods full exhaust/decat
Forge inter cooler
Bosch green 440s and this turbo



hey woody i have the ATP GTRS
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mister t
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2016, 04:43:39 PM »
Quote from: woody on July 20, 2016, 02:22:47 AM
Has anyone got any experience with these ATP turbos
I have a 1.8t BAM with steel rods full exhaust/decat
Forge inter cooler
Bosch green 440s and this turbo



Random bit of advice; if this is the first turbo car you're going to tune, I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend getting a water/meth injection kit.

The anti detonation properties it provides, will forgive a lot of errors that otherwise might end up as a bent rod or burned piston.

For $400, it's a great power adder and a really cheap insurance policy compared to the cost of a built engine.
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armageddon
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2016, 04:44:55 PM »
Quote from: mister t on July 25, 2016, 04:43:39 PM
The anti detonation properties it provides, will forgive a lot of errors that otherwise might end up as a bent rod or burned piston.

on the other hand, the w/m(if fail) can do it also Smiley
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mister t
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2016, 04:57:41 PM »
People always say that, but the trick is not to dial the boost/timing to the point that it'll blow up if the W/M fails.

Always leave a margin for error. It's that simple. Or, get a failsafe switch for the W/M

OR play it safe as you dial it in and then the water/meth acts as your failsafe.
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prj
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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2016, 11:31:35 PM »
The right way to do WMI is Aquamist, as that has a flow based failsafe. Then do map switching off of the failsafe output and do two maps in the ECU.
Need some skill to pull that off though - not enough to simply regurgitate stuff found on the forum.
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Carsinc
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« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2016, 09:12:02 PM »
Prj I hope aquamist has you on the pay roll. When you use there system do you use the injector input along with
boost or just on or the other? Basically how do you trigger the meth? Both times i used it it was installed already
I was just fixing, they were audi V8s with blowers and tied to just the injector input.
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prj
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« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2016, 02:52:53 AM »
Injector input only of course. On DI also rail pressure.
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