nyet
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« Reply #30 on: September 26, 2016, 12:31:13 PM »
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When I try to leave in the variables logged i get this error: Internal Server Error The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request. Please contact the server administrator, webmaster@nefariousmotorsports.com and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error. More information about this error may be available in the server error log. Apache/2.2.31 (Amazon) Server at nefariousmotorsports.com Port 80 Not sure how ME7Logger is generating that error :/
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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AustinLee
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« Reply #31 on: September 26, 2016, 12:52:27 PM »
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Not sure how ME7Logger is generating that error :/
Sorry for the confusion, this was in regards to me posting the entire failure log on this website. Ok ill look into trying to update the driver manually more. Thanks!
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nyet
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« Reply #32 on: September 26, 2016, 01:07:57 PM »
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Yea i've seen that error off and on too when trying to post.. not sure why. I cleared a few cookies, logged out, logged back in, and they were ok.
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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AustinLee
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« Reply #33 on: September 27, 2016, 12:14:58 PM »
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Alright Everybody!! Got Everything working!! So a few logs i took are below. If you dont mind giving your input.. Itd be appreciated! Im confused, when looking at this graph it shows where the boost drops and then picks back up again. This is definitely a feel able effect. I also logged ignition retard to see if it was pulling timing. Anybody have any thoughts or ideas? Or is the current tune just a crappy tune?
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adam-
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« Reply #34 on: September 27, 2016, 02:23:44 PM »
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RPM is X axis.
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nyet
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« Reply #35 on: September 27, 2016, 02:39:39 PM »
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RPM is X axis. this x1000, also post the original CSV or we won't be able to diagnose anything because we can't see anything other than the vars you graphed
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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AustinLee
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« Reply #36 on: September 28, 2016, 03:45:15 AM »
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Ok ive reposted with RPM as x-axis, and attached the file. Cant seem to figure out why boost drops and then pics back up? Boost drop and then pics back up Is IGN timing being pulled as well? Boost with WG - Just interesting, shows that the wastegate isnt all the way closed. Can obviously run more boost, not without consequences of course. And as a note to anyone who looks at the CSV file.. I apologize in advance as I was taking data with a zillion different variables recording. Thanks Everybody!!
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adam-
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« Reply #37 on: September 28, 2016, 04:54:10 AM »
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Way too much knock, you've smashed into EGT and flatlined fuel; temperature sensor/thermostat is dead, running barely any timing as a result.
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AustinLee
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« Reply #38 on: September 28, 2016, 05:03:16 AM »
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Way too much knock, you've smashed into EGT and flatlined fuel; temperature sensor/thermostat is dead, running barely any timing as a result.
Thanks for the input Adam! I really do want to learn from all of you on here. However just as an FYI, I havent tuned the car at all, its currently how i bought it. I should obviously flash a stock file for now and restart? For reference: Way too much knock: Are you looking at Knock voltages? If so what values are normal for this engine? O? Or are you looking at how much its pulling timing and the knock values? If EGT: I see that if i graph EGT it looks like its pretty standard at 630 ish and spikes to over 800, obviously late timing can cause this because lots of energy is going into the exhaust as opposed to pushing the piston down. What should i see for EGT values? And i definitly need a new thermostat... it runs a tick under half almost all the time. I hear the job is a pain.. but none the less, it needs to be done. In your opinion is it impossible to tune without having a 100 percent working thermostat?
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adam-
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« Reply #39 on: September 28, 2016, 05:06:20 AM »
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It's impossible to tune properly if the engine isn't up to temp, because everything varies around coolant temperature. Yes, looking at timing pull. 7 degrees is way too much. I fuel using BTS, so I've set TABS to 400 degrees so it's always active, and tuned using that. Yours just hits the threshold and dumps fuel, which isn't good. If you want to learn, flash a stock file, read the Stage 1 documentation and go from there. It'll take you a few hours of reading to get to where you currently are boost wise, but with better fuel and timing IMO.
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AustinLee
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« Reply #40 on: September 28, 2016, 05:29:55 AM »
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It's impossible to tune properly if the engine isn't up to temp, because everything varies around coolant temperature. Yes, looking at timing pull. 7 degrees is way too much. I fuel using BTS, so I've set TABS to 400 degrees so it's always active, and tuned using that. Yours just hits the threshold and dumps fuel, which isn't good. If you want to learn, flash a stock file, read the Stage 1 documentation and go from there. It'll take you a few hours of reading to get to where you currently are boost wise, but with better fuel and timing IMO. Ok. So what i understand so far. I need to install my UEGO ASAP. As well as do a timing belt and Thermostat(might as well do a T-belt and water pump even though im only at 138k). Do your tunes ever pull timing? Or do you tune so it pulls timing close to 1 degree and then back it off so it doesnt ever pull it? And from what ive read, so tune fueling so that my EGT temps stay down below the point were the car throws in extra fuel(BTS). I have read quite a bit of the stage 1 commmunity tune, its actually quite interesting and very informational even though its like 40 some pages long. Next Step: Replace Timing belt and water pump and thermostat. This will pry be a week or two. Ill report back then! Thanks for the help!
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AustinLee
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« Reply #41 on: September 29, 2016, 06:58:11 AM »
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It's impossible to tune properly if the engine isn't up to temp, because everything varies around coolant temperature. Yes, looking at timing pull. 7 degrees is way too much. I fuel using BTS, so I've set TABS to 400 degrees so it's always active, and tuned using that. Yours just hits the threshold and dumps fuel, which isn't good. If you want to learn, flash a stock file, read the Stage 1 documentation and go from there. It'll take you a few hours of reading to get to where you currently are boost wise, but with better fuel and timing IMO. Today im picking up a Timing Belt, Water pump, idler pulleys ect and thermostat. However I did want to mention one thing. I got my boost gauge installed a few days ago and working. I have been paying attention to it now that i know the engine is "knocking" under high load. I am able to watch the peak boost hit 18 psi sometimes and then i feel the knock, and then the boost gauge immediately drops down to 14 ish. I got to thinking about everything and I decided to find a spot where i could put 93 Octane fuel in the S4(normally i run 91 because thats all thats available around me on my daily commute to work). The knock in decreased significantly. I am going to put some new spark plugs in as well as the thermostat ect, and hopefully most of my problem will be solved, although i still want to tune it myself.
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