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adam-
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« Reply #30 on: March 10, 2017, 06:15:31 AM »
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Mine would bubble but I had a leak.
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4ringpieces
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« Reply #31 on: March 10, 2017, 06:57:59 AM »
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You need to sniff the coolant bottle when engine is cold through to up to running temperature for hydrocarbons either emissions machine or a use a block tester kit but these aren't always accurate
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dokalanyi
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« Reply #32 on: March 10, 2017, 07:04:58 AM »
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You need to sniff the coolant bottle when engine is cold through to up to running temperature for hydrocarbons either emissions machine or a use a block tester kit but these aren't always accurate
Can I use my nose?  |
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adam-
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« Reply #33 on: March 10, 2017, 09:00:21 AM »
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Nope.
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QuickS4
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« Reply #34 on: March 14, 2017, 11:45:01 PM »
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If you have access to a leakdown tester, use that and remove the coolant cap. Set TDC on any cylinder and if you get bubbles at the coolant reservoir. Then you've got a blown headgasket. This is the most accurate way to sort out a bad headgasket. Along with a compression test as well.
Question, have you seen any consumption of coolant from the bottle?
Also, back in the day I remember many mechanics/friends would remove thermostats due to the fact they sucked ass and would fail regularly. So the common fix while in a bind was to remove the thermostat to make it back home.
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
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dokalanyi
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« Reply #35 on: March 19, 2017, 09:34:41 PM »
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I don't have access to a leakdown tester, but replaced water with coolant, and ran with the aux fan on all the time (Unplugged AC compressor, removed its belt, and turned on AC).
Still at some point it would feel like the coolant is boiling -- the temp gauge would be at 90*C, and the Oil Pressure light comes on.
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KasperH
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« Reply #36 on: March 19, 2017, 11:41:53 PM »
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I don't have access to a leakdown tester, but replaced water with coolant, and ran with the aux fan on all the time (Unplugged AC compressor, removed its belt, and turned on AC).
Still at some point it would feel like the coolant is boiling -- the temp gauge would be at 90*C, and the Oil Pressure light comes on.
90c is within operating temperature? Oil pressure light? Sounds like you got more problem incoming  |
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adam-
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« Reply #37 on: March 20, 2017, 12:39:34 AM »
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Oil temp through the roof and so thin pressure has dropped? That motor sounds toast. Pump working?
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dokalanyi
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« Reply #38 on: March 20, 2017, 03:31:20 AM »
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Oil temp through the roof and so thin pressure has dropped? That motor sounds toast. Pump working?
- What do you mean motor sounds toast? What's specifically is likely to be toasted? - Water Pump? |
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QuickS4
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« Reply #39 on: March 21, 2017, 12:44:53 AM »
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- What do you mean motor sounds toast? What's specifically is likely to be toasted?
- Water Pump?
He's saying you've got a pressure light coming on, you may have a bad oil pump, but in reality you should be checking the oil pressure sensor. I just recently had one fail. Plus this would be a great opportunity to check your oil pressure by hooking up at the same port using a pressure gauge. That said, there was no mention of oil temps. Unless I missed it. Coolant temp at 90C is ok, though it seems it's over cooling being you've got the fan on all the time. My S4 sits at factory temp of 203F. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
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dokalanyi
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« Reply #40 on: March 21, 2017, 01:39:37 AM »
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He's saying you've got a pressure light coming on, you may have a bad oil pump, but in reality you should be checking the oil pressure sensor. I just recently had one fail. Plus this would be a great opportunity to check your oil pressure by hooking up at the same port using a pressure gauge. That said, there was no mention of oil temps. Unless I missed it. Coolant temp at 90C is ok, though it seems it's over cooling being you've got the fan on all the time. My S4 sits at factory temp of 203F.
I think the oil pressure light comes on because the oil has heated up. I think the sensor is fine. The coolant just boils and evaporates through the cap |
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cpp
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« Reply #41 on: April 02, 2017, 11:40:34 AM »
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I've had problems with head gasket, thermostatic valve and water pump.
Each one of a symptom before having overheated.
Head gasket you will have the engine starting cold failed cylinder, or drive the car for 3km with cold engine and an accelerated in order to come turbo pressure, stop the car even with cold engine and check that the hoses are under pressure, Yes, you have a burnt gasket.
Water pump or coolant, turn on the car and then turn on the air heater at maximum temperature, if you do not notice heating inside you have a fired pump, the warm air of the cabin and the place where you first notice the heating. You can check the two radiator inlet hoses of the cabin heater. The factory pumps break the pas when the mileage is high and you drive with high rpms still with cold engine.
Thermostatic valve you will have the cabin heater normally operated, but when you have the radiator fan driven by the temperatira of the engine will have cold air coming out of it, one radiator hose will be hot and the other cold.
I speak here of a motor 1.8 20v auq.
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