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Author Topic: 1.8t BT 5120 hack  (Read 41316 times)
Poody
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« on: June 30, 2017, 12:19:46 AM »

Hi all, fairly new to the forums here, but have lurked for a couple years now. I have a big turbo 1.8t gti and have been tuning it with Maestro for almost 5 years now. Recently my ECU shit the bed and I'm finally biting the bullet on switching over to TunerPro/WinOLS demo. I've been working through a couple speed bumps to get flashed for the first time but I figured I would organize my thoughts here, and hopefully learn from any of the gurus around here.

I should have my ft232r blue flash cable next week, but in the mean time, I really want to slap a tune together, and have a plan of attack for when it arrives so I can drive my car again. Its been sitting for 6 months and I'm driving a Turdcel, I really miss the power haha. Anywho, just hoping somebody can confirm my thinking is correct.

So before anything, I will need to immo defeat or clone my old eeprom and using bootmode, flash it to my new ECU. I know Eurodyne files can't be flashed over with NefMoto, but i will still be able to rip my old 95040 from my Maestro ecu to get the immobilizer working on my new ECU, right? Second, my new ecu is a 032NL, old is a 032PL. Im hoping crossflashing with an 032HS file will not cause problems? I found huge .xdf/.kp file somewhere on here and none of the other ECUs I have found are as well defined as the HS.

So far, I have worked out how to add params to my xdf in TunerPro in order to edit the map axes, and have essentially put together what looks like a Stage 3 base tune from Eurodyne plus or minus a few things. I think I coded out my emissions stuff properly in the hex editor. I plan to flash and very carefully work my way up to a stable tune, but in the meantime, I also want to try to get a 5120 hack working for the HS.

Im choosing the HS because it is the best defined ECU I could find, and as I'm new to this software, I dont want to throw myself at too steep of a learning curve by reading and defining my own .bin. I have sifted through the s4wiki, Bische's thread, and a few other threads here, and have made edits to all the scalars, tables, and axes listed here:
http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Manifold_air_pressure:Rescale_project

There are quite a few that either don't exist on a 1.8t ecu, or aren't defined in my .kp or .xdf files. If anybody could steer me in the right direction that would be awesome! Here are the IDs in question:

FHOKH
KFDPVL
KMLTESG
DPDSVLU
DSUGRAD
DSUOFS
PUE
PUMN   (I do have UADPUMN. Is that the proper map?)
PUMX   (I do have UADPUMX. Is that the proper map?)
PVDKMN
ZDSU
PBKVVSTG
PUEBKV
NLDIAPU
FRLFSDP    (Might be improperly defined. My axis values are 2776.25|3166.88|3557.50|3948.13|4338.75|4729.38|0.00|390.63|781.25|1171.88|1562.50 and I would bet money that those values are not correct)


I dont need anybody to spoon feed me addresses or anything, but if anyone has done this before for a 1.8t, let me know if those tables exist on our ECUs, and if so, give me some direction on how to locate them. I will attach my 5120 file and my xdf, and for anyone who feels like helping, thanks in advance!



edit: wont let me upload the xdf file. Heres a link to the definitions I am using, however, the params for axes are not added in
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=4936.0title=

« Last Edit: June 30, 2017, 12:28:47 AM by Poody » Logged
THANAS
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Yes.


« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2017, 01:18:28 AM »

AFAIK you still need to effect a few changes to hardcoded values using IDAPro.
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Poody
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« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2017, 01:24:43 AM »

Interesting. Okay, I'll look into that.
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nyet
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« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2017, 10:03:00 AM »

ASM changes required:

pvdk_w
pus_w
fvpdkds
fho_w
frhodkr_w
SDLDSUA axis calculation

For the M file

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3027.msg29815#msg29815

See the 5120 folder:
http://files.s4wiki.com/defs/8D0907551M-20170411.kp
http://files.s4wiki.com/defs/8D0907551M-20170411.xdf

See the bottom of this list:
http://files.s4wiki.com/defs/8D0907551M-20170411.csv
« Last Edit: June 30, 2017, 10:16:03 AM by nyet » Logged

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nyet
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« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2017, 10:15:33 AM »

I have updated the wiki page you referenced, which isn't really complete, it was a work in progress.
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Poody
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« Reply #5 on: July 05, 2017, 03:23:34 PM »

Thanks nyet! youre a legend man   Grin

Havent had a chance to try the ASM divisions in IDA pro, not even sure where to start with that haha.

For now, I have managed to build a bench harness to clone my old 95040 file and copy it to my new ECU, and also flashed my basic "Stage 3" tune. I'm getting 4 CELs right now. Two for my MAF, one for pressure drop between throttle and turbo, and one (p0441) for improper evap flow. I have all the emissions components coded out via ESKONF. Ive read a few other threads and people seem to steer everyone to ESKONF for disabling CEL related to emissions components. Are there other maps/bytes I should be looking at? Despite the codes, my car runs better than it ever did on Maestro, and Im looking forward to improving my tune even more

ESKONF values Im using:

AA FF 00 F3 FF FB FC
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nyet
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« Reply #6 on: July 05, 2017, 03:33:36 PM »

Havent had a chance to try the ASM divisions in IDA pro, not even sure where to start with that haha.

NONE of the 5120 changes will work unless you do ALL of the required ASM changes.

Quote
I'm getting 4 CELs right now. Two for my MAF, one for pressure drop between throttle and turbo, and one (p0441) for improper evap flow. I have all the emissions components coded out via ESKONF. Ive read a few other threads and people seem to steer everyone to ESKONF for disabling CEL related to emissions components. Are there other maps/bytes I should be looking at? Despite the codes, my car runs better than it ever did on Maestro, and Im looking forward to improving my tune even more

Forget about ESKONF until you fix the MAF problems.
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ME7.1 tuning guide
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum
Trim heatmap tool

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
Poody
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« Reply #7 on: July 05, 2017, 04:39:56 PM »

MAF will be dealt with tonight. Considering the pressure drop code, I'm 90% sure the MAF code is due to a boost leak. Im not running my 5120 file as of yet. I want to get everything else running right before I start deviating that far from the factory ECU settings.

For now the 5120 is my side project and Im just making any edits I do on a file I flash to the car, and then also to my 5120 file.

Once I get boost regulated with n75 and figure out how to set up boost by gear I will transition to the 5120 file
« Last Edit: July 05, 2017, 07:13:55 PM by Poody » Logged
Poody
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« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2017, 03:02:50 PM »

So it's been a fun month and a half. Had to spend the majority of my free time replacing pads and rotors, doing a timing belt/water pump job, fabbing new intercooler pipes to fix my boost leak, and doing body work on my other project car, but I'm finally in a position where I can focus on tuning the VW again.

I am running into trouble getting datalogs to work. I have me7logger and the GUI set up properly AFAIK, but I'm getting a timeout error when trying to start logging. I've read that I might need to wire in a secondary/solitary K line wire, but I'm not sure how to go about it. For anybody who has had to do that before, do I just strip and splice the proper wires on the ECU/OBD plugs, or is it a temporary wire that is only connected while I'm taking logs? And could the K line really be my issue comsidering Maestro allowed me to take datalogs just fine?
« Last Edit: August 20, 2017, 03:21:53 PM by Poody » Logged
aef
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« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2017, 11:50:10 PM »

You can run a direct line from your ecu to a obd plug.
Right now, designed by vw, you have some connector for the k-line where every device shares the obd plug.
so your dash, ecu, abs, climatronic and so on, everything with k-line is connected to your obd plug.

the goal is to have only the ecu on the connector.

OR

try to change the seetings in me7logger, start it with ignition on, if its running, start the engine afterwards and so on.

there are a lots of tricks to make it work. have a look into the according thread.

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adam-
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« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2017, 02:56:13 AM »

Can you not just code the ECU in properly rather than immo-ing off?
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Poody
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« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2017, 08:57:04 AM »

Can you not just code the ECU in properly rather than immo-ing off?

ECU has already been properly coded. 95040 was cloned from my original ECU and flashed to my new one.

And I've played with the settings in every combination I've been able to think of, hence my consideration of the K line wire. Just want to make sure I'm understanding this, because I'm a total newb when it comes to electronics; Do I need to bypass the old K line wire, or just run a direct line from ECU to OBD in parallel with the existing line?
« Last Edit: August 21, 2017, 09:01:48 AM by Poody » Logged
vwaudiguy
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« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2017, 09:53:35 AM »

ECU has already been properly coded. 95040 was cloned from my original ECU and flashed to my new one.

And I've played with the settings in every combination I've been able to think of, hence my consideration of the K line wire. Just want to make sure I'm understanding this, because I'm a total newb when it comes to electronics; Do I need to bypass the old K line wire, or just run a direct line from ECU to OBD in parallel with the existing line?

Temporarily make a direct connection (with no T's) direct from the OBD port to the ecu. Some people makes relays, or use a toggle switch so they can go back and forth easily.
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316LV
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« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2017, 07:50:48 PM »

Wire the k-line direct to the OBD2 port. It will save you many headaches in the future. I wrote about how it did it in this post: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6679.msg69866#msg69866

I expanded on it with a diagram a few posts later, but thanks to Photobucket I lost the image. I think I have a copy on a hard drive a 1000km away, so I'll draw another if you don't understand. But the principle is simple. You are using a double pole switch to either bypass the cluster and associated components or running it like stock. You cut two wires and connect all four ends as I describe.

I'll check my Bentley for pin numbers on the connectors, but the K-line on my car (02 Jetta) was grey with a white stripe. Pretty sure it went from the plenum by the ECU to the green plug on the cluster, and should be the same colour on the OBD2 connector...
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Poody
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« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2017, 12:27:32 AM »

Wire the k-line direct to the OBD2 port. It will save you many headaches in the future. I wrote about how it did it in this post: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6679.msg69866#msg69866

I expanded on it with a diagram a few posts later, but thanks to Photobucket I lost the image. I think I have a copy on a hard drive a 1000km away, so I'll draw another if you don't understand. But the principle is simple. You are using a double pole switch to either bypass the cluster and associated components or running it like stock. You cut two wires and connect all four ends as I describe.

I'll check my Bentley for pin numbers on the connectors, but the K-line on my car (02 Jetta) was grey with a white stripe. Pretty sure it went from the plenum by the ECU to the green plug on the cluster, and should be the same colour on the OBD2 connector...

You just made my headache go away. I'm terrible at designing electrical circuits so your explanation made everything much more clear. I was thinking I could get it done with a SPDT but apparently not. Thanks for sharing  Grin
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