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Author Topic: timing question after big port install 1.8T, high EGT, no CF  (Read 14190 times)
Awaken
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« on: August 05, 2017, 05:55:28 PM »

Hello,

It was time to do a little revision to my 1.8T S3 engine due to ~120 000km and 6 years of everyday driving on it after my last rebuild, since there was some wear in the pistons and rings, respectively increased oil consumption and the whole story...

I used the opportunity to swap the head with a big port one, did some work on the intake manifold to match the port size and the car runs great now, at least to a point.

I have a GT2871R @ 1.9bar and 630cc injectors, forged rods, enough fuel and cool air, everything else is stock. I was putting down about 270kw at the wheels and I was noticing about 4.5-6 degrees correction in timing during WOT on the highway (less on the dyno) with the small port head.

Unfortunately my tuner is no longer around to handle this, so I've recently started to dig in the maps myself, adjusting cold starts, idle and other non-power-related maps. Now I am little confused about something and little scared to touch where I know a really good tuner has done the mapping before me, but I feel the big port requires some adjusting.

Now, with no maps changed, I see absolutely no CF, 0! The car feels really good, much better than before, but towards the end of a 4th gear pull and especially on 5th I notice an increase in EGT (about 980C on 4th and over 1000C on 5th and increasing, after which I let go the throttle), I also get misfires, but still no CF! On a colder night I would not get the misfires, but still a pretty high EGT. I tried running richer via LAMFA, went all the way up to 11:1 just to see what happens, but that did not solve anything, it made it worse of course, so I went back to about 11.7 where 'kelesha' (the pro tuner) had left it. I've been reading that increased timing might reduce EGT, which also makes sense given that my CF is 0, which begs for some more timing until I see about 1-2 CF, but in the same time the big port with more airflow and cylinder pressure suggests that I reduce timing, no?

So my question is kinda obvious, should I try to increase or decrease timing, or should I leave it alone and look elsewhere? Here's my current timing map:



Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated! I can do some logging if somebody finds this interesting and wants to play along Smiley

Best!
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nyet
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« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2017, 09:02:44 PM »

Pointless to comment without logs.
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Awaken
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« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2017, 11:59:52 PM »

Makes sense, what's best to log in that case? rpm, load, boost, actual timing, cf, what else?
« Last Edit: August 06, 2017, 12:07:46 AM by Awaken » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2017, 12:15:30 AM »

Somebody should put an answer to that question somewhere. I mean, it is so rarely asked

Oh. Wait.
https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Logging_utilities

Quote
A list of commonly logged variables is here (lines with a leading semicolon are comments, and thus variables that are not being logged) - https://github.com/nyetwurk/ME7L/blob/master/logs/typical.lst
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
Awaken
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« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2017, 02:05:42 AM »

Thought it would be more helpful to narrow down the list to be on point. Nevertheless, will log with all these. Thanks!
« Last Edit: August 06, 2017, 02:33:27 AM by Awaken » Logged
KasperH
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« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2017, 04:11:43 AM »

More data always makes analysing, and diagnosing easier Smiley
If I could log all 700 and something variables everytime,
i would do it. I love all the data, gives me an exact picture of what's going on Tongue
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prj
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« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2017, 10:33:35 AM »

I tried running richer via LAMFA, went all the way up to 11:1 just to see what happens, but that did not solve anything, it made it worse of course,
Adding fuel can not make EGT on an OTTO engine worse. In fact it lowers EGT (provided you were running richer than lambda 1).
I think you need to read a book about ICE-s before attempting to tune anything, as you do not seem to have the basics down.
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PM's will not be answered, so don't even try.
Log your car properly.
Awaken
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« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2017, 12:41:11 PM »

When I say it got worse I did not mean EGT, EGT actually was little better, but still getting over 1000C even on 4th, so I did not solve the main issue. What I meant by 'it got worse' is that the car did not feel right and also I had so many fuel spots on the trunk door, it was ridiculous.

Why would I increase fuel trying to solve an EGT problem if I don't know what this is and what it does?

Also I am not trying to tune anything, the car is pretty well tuned, I am just trying to solve what I consider is an issue that happened after a hardware change, big port head install to be precise.

Anyway,  I've attached 4 logs. Log 1 is running the angles from the picture in the first post and I have cam overlap all the way to 5000rpm.

The other 3 logs are with cam overlap down to 4500 (500 more than stock), as well as + 3 degree marked in the red in the following picture:



All this actually helped in my opinion, I did not notice more than 970C on 4th and I was only getting about 1000C towards the end of 5th, my absolute max was 1020C for a bit right before limiter on 5th.

Also it's worth mentioning that it's quite hot, over 30C ambient, as well the coolant was getting well over 100C. I had random misfires, but no major CF, only 1.5 deg on cyl. 3.

Any feedback if these logs are ok and if my new timing on the marked region is ok would  be much appreciated.

Thanks!

P.S Also I had to switch on logging prior to starting the engine, since there seems to be some weird issue with connection, so first rows are pretty useless until I get up to 4th. Also that was on the highway, so occasionally I had to let go the throttle because of traffic, all that is visible on the logs...



« Last Edit: August 06, 2017, 12:51:54 PM by Awaken » Logged
4ringpieces
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« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2017, 01:22:59 PM »

disable armd in the tune
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Awaken
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« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2017, 01:37:07 PM »

disable armd in the tune

Because of timing oscillations?
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Awaken
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« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2017, 10:03:30 PM »

Alright, let me ask this - is it a right strategy to increase timing until a noticeable CF, let's say 4-5-6 degrees is reached and then pull back to about 1-2 degrees? Would this give me the optimal timing the car can handle or should we always aim for 0 CF? Is there a number that we should aim for that in your opinion is best for a heavy boost 1.8T? From what I read 10-15 degrees timing is good, but does this mean it is bad if the car is able to make 20 without knock and no CF?

Obviously that is best seen on the dyno, but I will have access to one little down the road.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2017, 10:07:00 PM by Awaken » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2017, 10:11:50 PM »

As a whole, aim for 0 CF

If you think you will be running different kinds of gas, aim for 0 on the best gas you are going to run, but never more than single digits on the worst gas and/or worst conditions (high IAT etc).

Absolute best timing is a poor metric because it can vary wildly depending.

Hope that helps.
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
Awaken
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« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2017, 10:52:39 PM »

It helps, thank you!
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Awaken
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« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2017, 07:17:15 AM »

Given the increased cylinder pressure that comes with more timing, does anyone have any observations if the stock bolts and head gasket for the 1.8T might not hold? I noticed my timing was set to -1.5 degrees from stock by the tuner initially, do tuners do this for safety in general?
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adam-
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« Reply #14 on: August 07, 2017, 07:21:48 AM »

IIRC, stock is around -1.5 in that region.  Compare to ORI.  You'd be surprised at the changes your tuner hasn't made.
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