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Author Topic: AC On/Idle RPM/Load at Idle/KFMRES (ME7.5)  (Read 11677 times)
userpike
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« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2018, 10:12:04 AM »

Id say it is definetly not helping the situation for sure.

Also the battery should bever drop below 12V i don't think. That is evidence of a bad cell usually

upon looking at your log again even at the start of the log with no load the highest voltage is 13.1 which should be atleast 14.1

If i were you i would have both the alt and batt tested especially since you did the big 3 upgrade.  it doesn't matter the rating or age if they are not working correctly you'll be chasing ghosts. I have heard of people getting remaned alts that were not outputting coorrect voltage because it was just rebuilt and voltage regulator was bad. I'have heard of people getting alts from the stealership and not to spec also. i have personally recieved brand new battery from Wallmart yeap...lol and it had a weak cell off the shelf..
« Last Edit: September 08, 2018, 10:38:48 AM by userpike » Logged
vwaudiguy
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« Reply #16 on: September 08, 2018, 01:53:34 PM »

Check to see that the voltage in the log matches what's measured at the battery with a multimeter. I remember the log voltage being ~ a volt lower than actual measured on a car without issue.
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adam-
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« Reply #17 on: September 10, 2018, 02:35:52 PM »

Battery voltage is 14.2.  Weird.  Wonder why the ECU sees so much less?

Also, I wonder if this is a hardware.  Come to think of it, I've just re-done the inlet and the MAF is now welded on a bend with no flow straightener.  I bet that it's my own fault that it's like this...
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userpike
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« Reply #18 on: September 22, 2018, 02:40:23 PM »

Battery voltage is 14.2.  Weird.  Wonder why the ECU sees so much less?

Also, I wonder if this is a hardware.  Come to think of it, I've just re-done the inlet and the MAF is now welded on a bend with no flow straightener.  I bet that it's my own fault that it's like this...

I had a battery once that showed good voltage but would fail a load test. What is battery voltage with the engine off? Same thing with an alternator. In the case of the alternator, the brushes had worn almost completly away. Not saying its your issue but it sucks when the simplest things make things seem way more problematic than they really are. both tests can be performed in like 5 minutes at your local auto parts store usually while still in the car.
 Assuming you checked grounds and voltage at the alternator and voltage at the battery while both are under heavy electrical load. Maybe it's time to check the resistance between the power lead ot top of the battery juction/fuse box and the pin for it in the connector for the ECU. it shouldnt have a high resistance.
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